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Hi everyone, I picked up my SS about a year ago and have a couple of posts on the site to which you guys have helped me out with a lot. Getting straight to it, my bumper and grille have a lot of paint defects from bugs sitting on the bumper and grille from previous owners. I was going to actually remove them, sand them down and paint them. Well of course to get the ultra smooth finish I need to color sand and buff. That's where my issue lies. I'm not sure whether to get a rotary polisher or a dual-action. I know a rotary is more aggressive which would be great against sanding marks, but I do like the safety that a dual-action offers, but I'm afraid it will not be able to be aggressive enough to be effective against color sanding. And I don't want to spend hours on one section of the bumper a day just for the safety when a rotary would be able to get it done much faster. I feel like I would be careful enough with a rotary not to burn through the paint, but I wanted your guys intake on this. Just remember, it will be used to polish color sanding, not just average detailing. Thanks in advance guys!
Here's another great job by Chase! I always love these jobs. This is the wife, of the client I did the Cayman for. GREAT people, and they've seen what my hands can do. This is her daily driver, and I think they'll order up a polishing package in the summer, but for now it was just a wash, clay, sealant, interior job. I'm always very grateful for return clients like this, and furthering our relationship. I went to the client's house for this one, here's how things went down: Adam's Deep Wheel Cleaner, Wheel Woolies, Boar's Hair brush, & New Lugnut Brush on wheels Adam's All Purpose Cleaner& Fender Brushon tires & wheel wells Adam's All Purpose Cleaner & Fender Brush to clean floormats Adam's All Purpose Cleaner, Wheel Woolies, & Boar's Hair Brush to clean the engine bay Blow dry engine bay with MetroVac Sidekick & one of my "dirty job" towels Full two bucket wash with Adam's Firehose Nozzle & shutoff valve, Adam's Jumbo Wash pads, & Adam's Car Wash Shampoo Dress wheeel wells with Adam's Invisible Undercarriage Spray Adam's Clay Bar, Adam's Detail Spray, & Adam's Great White Drying Towel to decontaminate the surface Blow dry cracks & crevices with MetroVac Sidekick 70/30 Alcohol wipedown with Adam's Singlesoft Microfiber Towel Adam's Quick Sealant Comboto protect this baby Nourish engine bay, tires, & all exterior plastics with Adam's SVRT, Adam's In/out Spray, and a Block Sponge Vacuum interior with my Shop Vac Dust dash with small brushes, Adam's Detail Spray & "dirty job" towel Scrub seats and door areas with Adam's Leather/Interior Cleaner, Adam's Horsehair Interior Brush, & one of my "dirty job" towels Nourish seats & door areas with Adam's Leather Conditioner Clean interior & exterior glass with Adam's Glass Cleaner & towel Dress roof rack with Adam's SVRT On to the pics baby! Arriving on the scene: Lettin' the DWC & APC get right down to work: Engine bay before: Washed & Blow dry: Always check this area during a wash. The lugnut brush is used for MANY other areas than just lugs: All done washing: Ready for a pool rinse, let the car help dry itself: Hittin' those fender wells before moving forward, in case any overspray gets on the car, I have a few steps after, to remove it. I don't dry the car beforehand, when I clay. Any water left on the car after rinsing (ALWAYS DO THIS IN THE SHADE OR GARAGE) acts as lubricant for when I clay, and then I use the Great White Drying Towel to absorb what's left behind. I took this pic, so you can see all the dirt and junk left behind, EVEN AFTER a wash, absorbed into the towel. This is after just the roof. I always like to dress all areas with SVRT & In/Out Spray BEFORE I apply my LSP or do my IPA wipedown, because I'll remove any accidental messy areas, in the steps to come. Here's a 50/50 of the rear step pad, after 1 coat of SVRT: Buttoned up after 3 coats absorbed: Engine bay afters:
13 Years ago a little detailing products company started near Los Angeles, California. Today that little business is still going strong (now in Colorado) and to celebrate another year we're offering 13% OFF STOREWIDE with the code 13YEARS. Spend more than $130 and the order ships FREE anywhere in the continental US. We're also including a FREE 2013 Calendar with any gallon product purchased! But what could make a 13th Anniversary Sale even better? How about the release of the biggest product update ever to come out of Adam's Polishes! Our #1 selling Detail Spray has gotten a revision. Even easier to use than before, higher gloss and shine, increased slickness, and our NEW Wax Boost Technology. Each use of Detail Spray now helps to prolong your wax or sealant coating... extending your protection up to an additional 2 months! For more info check out the video below: For a limited time all 16oz, 36oz, and 1 Gallon Detail Sprays will include a FREE BONUS!
Last week I setup a camera to film my entire wash process from start to finish, mainly at the request of a customer who had seen how my black Avalanche had looked thru most of its life. He has been struggling to keep his black truck swirl free and wanted to know how I did it. What better way than to just show the process, start to finish? Obviously I've sped this up so you don't have to watch me wash a truck for an hour+, but it is uncut... every part... how I wash my rides every time to minimize swirling. Please... any questions feel free to ask. Also, this is an ever evolving process as anyones wash routine should be. When you see an area for improvement GO FOR IT! So why 3 buckets? I started to notice that in some of my washes the 2nd bucket was still getting a fair amount of grit in the bottom. Wanting to eliminate the chances it made it back to the paint I added a 3rd bucket with another grit guard. My goal is to have ZERO contamination by the time I make it to that last bucket. Bucket 1: Pure water. this is used to scrub loose the majority of the debris. The wash media is scrubbed against the insert, combed thru with my fingers and given a quick visual inspection. Bucket 2: Pure water. This bucket gets much the same process as the first, once again scrubbing against the grit guard, pulling out of the water and inspecting for debris. Bucket 3: Water with soap. When your wash mitt reaches this bucket it should be clean and free of debris minimizing your chances of swirling. Make sure the mixture is heavy and a thick later of soap is created at setup. You'll also notice the addition of a foam gun to the process. I'd like to stress this is NOT a requirement, but more a thing of convenience. Using solid technique you can perform a proper swirl free wash without a foam gun... it just makes it faster/easier. Also, before anyone says anything - the gun I'm using is actually from the pre-china gilmour days... I've had it for awhile. The process itself is pretty basic. Start with the wheels as always. Rinse really well before introducing soap. Foam the vehicle completely. Merino Wash Mitt for the upper 2/3rds working 1 panel with each side of the mitt. Rinse. Inspect. Rinse. Inspect. Prime and repeat. Switch over to 2nd wash mitt or pad for lower 1/3rd following same process. Optional - Foam the vehicle again anywhere the soap may have started to dry. Power rinse with a strong stream from the hose. Sheet rinse to reduce standing water. Blaster Sidekick to knock loose bulk of remaining water. Great White Drying Towel + Detail Spray to dry Hit again with Blaster Sidekick to get water out of cracks. Touchup with Great White + Detail Spray Waterless Wash + Waterless Wash Towel for door jambs, engine bay, and wheels. Total time start to finish for this wash was 1h 17m