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Found 23 results

  1. 2003 Siverado SS Extended Cab LQ9 6.0L V8 with 70k miles and near perfect interior and exterior. Good tires, spray in bed liner and under body, all original with no modification. All manitenance done to schedule and everything works as it should. Asking $17,500
  2. NDman

    2wd or AWD

    New guy here interested into getting into a true SS not a clone,what does the 8th digit have to be? What kinda power can the nv149 case take im thinking of dropping my already boost built lq4 into it it when I buy one. Or would it be better for me to go for a 2wd and not have to worry about stretching the chain in the case. Looking at at least 650hp/Tq engine here maybe twin turbo. Yes I know I will have to upgrade to a 4l80e. Thanks guys.
  3. Just wondering what is the most that anyone here has there AWD SS lowered. and what they used for it.
  4. I will be posting mileage, interior pictures & everything else later. She is going into the shop soon for touch up work around the wheel wells. Brand new Borla ProXs muffler, pace setter long tube headers, After Market Rims, Dark Tint anyway pictures are on profile. If interested let me know. Sale will be soon as she gets out of shop. .*Update* I am also willing to sell as is...send offers an I will respond to your question....Willing to negotiate
  5. Looking for a ORIGINAL set of AWD CV axle shafts. if anyone is parting their truck out, and has them available, I'm looking to purchase them.. 631-466-6580, thanks again! Sean
  6. Im young and like loud i want the loudest most nasty sounding muffler for my truck without going muffler delete i kinda like the raspy popping noises of a muffler delete but want something a little more tame . i do not car about drone at all bump
  7. I have a quick question about what to expect when I put the AWD truck on jack stands raising all four wheels off the ground? I am troubleshooting a noise so I raised the front wheels and put jack stands under the frames and then raised the back and put blocks under the axle. When I started the truck and put it in drive, the rear wheels were turning but the fronts weren't. I applied very light brake pressure and the front wheels would start to turn. The ABS light came on quickly after that, which is to be expected. So I am curious as to what should happen when all four tires are off the ground. Thanks for the help!
  8. This how-to is going to address the process involved in taking a 2006 Silverado SS with Rear Wheel Drive and convert it to All Wheel Drive. I know, I can already hear you all asking me why anyone would ever do that. Well, everyone with an AWD wants a RWD and vice versa. The good news is that this write-up will actually explain how to go either direction. It’s a very similar process, albeit a little easier to go RWD. Whatever your reason, whether you want the all-weather drivability of AWD or the tire melting burnouts of RWD, you've come to the right place. Before I get started, let me first address the elephant. This is a complex process. It will not be a simple bolt on application. Anything done to your vehicle is at YOUR OWN RISK. That being said, unless you have significant automotive experience, money, time, and patience then don't even bother attempting this. I am simply going to show you how I did this to my truck. I did this to a 2006 SS. Your year/model may have differences. I don't have a 2005 so I can’t vouch that the frame will be the exact same as the 2006. You will be cutting your frame. You will be welding things to your frame. You will be rebuilding drivetrain components. If you can’t do these things comfortably, or the person you are having do this can’t, then you have no business attempting this. Now if you are feeling brave, or just have nothing better to do, then read on…then re-read it…a few times. Make some lists. Get under your truck and make some measurements. Now let’s get started. Ok, so first off a little background. I love my truck. It’s my daily driver. I tow, haul, travel, and everything else except take it offroad…because if it ever touches mud or snow, I’m all over the place or stuck. So when I slid off the road twice during a blizzard (at 25mph, going straight no less, with snow tires) I decided it was time. After a lot of research online and finding essentially nothing but people talking about how they think they would do it, I decided the best thing to do was just get a salvage SS and figure it out. I found a 2004 SS locally at an insurance auction and bought it. I then spent the next couple months tearing it apart piece by piece to retrieve the parts I needed, then ordering a whole lot more. If you are going RWD to AWD this is about your only option….unless by some fluke your truck came with the proper mounts (you’ll see later). Remember, if you get a salvage, make sure it starts and drives. Large impacts can do serious unseen damage to the drivetrain, even if it wasn’t touched. So you got your donor truck. You are going to need to strip it down to the frame. I recommend you do what I did and sell what you don’t use to recoup some of the cost of buying it. There are plenty of people who want/need parts, especially the cladding. Here is what you need: NV-149 Transfer Case Transfer Case Adapter AWD Transmission (or just an AWD output shaft) Front IFS (8.25”) Front IFS Mount Front Constant Velocity Axles Intermediate Driveshaft Front Hub Bearings Engine Support (2-pieces) Transmission Support Transmission Mount Frame Mounts (cut out the whole frame sections) Primary Driveshaft (see below) Some things that you need to do/consider: Rebuild the transfer case and front IFS. It doesn’t matter what the mileage is. These are probably halfway to junk. They may have even been rebuilt once already. Don’t trust that. Consider replacing or repacking the CV axles. Probably a little contaminated by now. I rebuilt mine just because I’ve never done it before. You can see below how contaminated they get. Its fairly easy to do, but getting the right dog ear clamps is a giant pain (online) and the clamping tool is not easy to find. New axles aren’t that expensive. Lesson learned. Consider replacing all of the universal joints. Consider the mileage they have on them. Consider buying new Hub bearings. None of this is mandatory, but why not. If you are about to put a new drivetrain on your truck you should probably build it to last. Primary driveshaft. You will need to either have the AWD shaft shortened or a custom shaft made. The reason for this is because of the Rear Axle. The 2003-2005 has an 8.6” 10 bolt piece of crap (a great reason to stick with the 06’). The 2006 has a 9.5” 14 bolt. The 9.5 is slightly longer (front to back) which will result in the old shaft being slightly too long. New Ring Gear: This is up to you how you do this, but the AWD has 4.10 gears while the RWD has 3.73. The front and rear axle must match. Either put a 4.10 in your rear or a 3.73 in the new front…or something else in both. Choose your own adventure. I went with the 4.10 in the rear because I was already rebuilding it and I wanted the low end for the extra weight I was about to add. The easiest way is to just change the front axle since you should already be rebuilding it (hint, hint). Transmission Exterior Seal Kit: This can be a slightly misleading name. It is going to contain some important seals and gaskets that you will need during the transmission rebuild; more on that later. Fluids: you will need the following Transmission: 11.2 quarts of Dexron VI – brand/synthetic or not is personal preference Front Axle (IFS): 1.5 quarts of 75w90 or 75w140 (severe service) Gear Oil. I (and many others) recommend the 75w140. These axles are a bit weak. Rear Axle (if necessary): 2.75 quarts of 75w90/75w140 gear oil. Same as front. Transfer Case: 2.22 quarts of either Dexron VI or AutoTrac II. This T-case is also a bit weak so don’t skimp. Some will swear by one while others swear by the other. Your choice. Coolant: 16.7 quarts Dex Cool GM 50/50 Freon: R-134a – enough to get 24-45 psi low side (dependant on temp/humidity). Or just have GM refill it. With the drivetrain fluids it isn’t necessary to go with synthetics, but with how crappy this AWD drivetrain is, you might want to go the extra mile. I went with Amsoil Synthetics and Autotrac II (ACdelco PN# 88900402). Now you know why everyone wants to convert to RWD. Also go ahead and double the gear oil and t-case amounts as you will need to do a break-in fluid change at 500 miles. Anaerobic Sealant: You will need this to rebuild your IFS and T-Case. Any brand will work. This stuff hardens in the absence of oxygen. DO NOT USE SILICON SEALANT! I will show you why later. Transmission Assembly Lube/Goo: there are multiple types and colors. You won’t need much. Tools: There are some specialty tools you will need as well. I will try and address them as I go. I also recommend the factory service manuals for torque specs and reference, but you can probably find a lot of the information on the internet if you look hard enough.
  9. Before I start this I should point out that I am in fact not a Transmission specialist. I am a general tech who just happens to dabble in everything and try new things. That being said, if any actual Transmission Techs out there want to chime in with pointers, correct me, add stuff, whatever...please do so. I'm not a genius and i'm also writing this up months after i actually did it, so i may have missed something or typed it wrong. I'm not going to cry if you criticize me, I care more that the correct info is out there for the people who need it. The following how-to is a step by step process of how to change out your transmission Output Shaft. This is actually part of a massive retrofit I'm doing over HERE to swap AWD into my RWD SSS. In case you didn't know, the only major difference between an AWD and RWD transmission in your SSS is the output shaft. The RWD has a longer Output Shaft because it has a tail housing going directly to the driveshaft. The AWD has a short "stub" shaft that goes into the NV-149 Transfer Case adapter, then T-case, which connects to the driveshaft. Anyone who has tried to put high HP into their truck knows that these transmissions are actually utter crap and can't handle power. Quick bit of history. The silverado used to use the 4L60E, but due to increases in power, especially with the SS version, they revised it into the 4L65E. A few revised parts here and there, and boom a transmission that can still barely handle the power being put into it. Most everyone has had their transmission go out or had a friend's who's did. 70,000 miles here...intake, exhaust, daily driver. Don't get discouraged though, a good reputable builder can build you a 4L65E that can last. Anyway back on point, one of the many weak parts in this transmission is the AWD output shaft. So the long RWD shaft while put under stress actually flexes a bit to help alleviate said stress. The shorter AWD shaft though does not, so when said stress is exerted, say hundreds of pounds of torque suddenly applied, the shaft will just straight break. Luckily you can find shot-peened, cryo-treeted, electrical induction treated, billet, etc shafts all over the internet. Now if you decided to tackle an output shaft replacement/swap you'll find that the ouput shaft is actually close to the back of the transmission and 3/4 of the guts have to be removed to get to it. A real pain, but not all that hard. Much easier than a full transmission rebuild. If you have a manual and patience this can be done in a few hours. For my purposes though i have to replace the RWD long shaft with the short AWD shaft for my build.
  10. Hey guys, new member here. First of all, I dont own a SSS.. However, I do own a 2002 Cadillac Escalade. 6.0L, NV149 AWD, 4L65 trans. Currently its bone stock other than being tuned. I had the speed limiter, torque management, and knock sensors removed. On a mustang awd dyno I put down 225HP, 275TQ. Keep in mind, its bone stock with a drop in K/N filter. Big plans for the future, just saving up for a house. It has a 3" lift, and 33's M/T's on it. I use this truck for work (may as well be comfortable at work) and its been the best work truck I've had so far. Already have 185000 miles on her now. So the reason I came over here is because the Cadillac forums are extremely weak as far as performance goes.... I'm curious as to the actual similarities between the two platforms, alot of ya'll are pushing some serious power through your trucks (pause for the ego stroke) and I'd like to get my Lac to around 500-550 to the wheels. My plans are Volant CAI, headers, catback, LS6 cam, LS6 valvetrain, retune, Efans, and good plugs, and wires. May possibly boost her, idk maybe a Vortech supercharger.. If I go with twins,I'd want 1000HP+ and I'd go full bore, built motor, trans, t-case, axles, driveshafts, the whole 9 yards... But for now, bolt-ons and a cam is the goal. What other upgrades should I expect or plan for to achieve my goal? Also, I have to have my t-case rebuilt now anyway, so from what I've read on here so far the NV149 is a pretty stout unit, and should be able to handle the power, and I would think the trans would hold also, could be wrong, but any input would be appriciated!! Thanks ya'll
  11. Having issues with my trans on 2004 ss truck, awd. No reverse. What would it cost to relace?
  12. Hi, as stated I have a horrid drive to reverse clunk noise (really any gear to reverse) that seems to be coming from my transfer case. It doesn't do it going into drive from reverse. I have replaced the chain and the old pump with the new design pump, but the problem still persists. I even re-greased my slip yokes with marine grease which seemed to help, but it's still pretty bad. When I get home I'll record a video of the clunk to give you guys a better idea. Anyone ever ran into this problem before? Transfer case operates completely fine and normal other than clunk. Thanks in advance guys!
  13. ****Warning this is by no means a how to but just a diary of the information I learned from my experience rebuilding my front differential and the basic steps of how I did it***** This Saturday I got my friend who is a ASE tech to show me how to rebuild the 8.25 front differential in the SS. Make sure you get a full rebuild kit before starting this job along with pipe thread sealant, and GM anaerobic sealant for the case halfs and new lock tabs. Also you will need a bearing splitter, access to a press, a GM 8.25 side lock adjuster tool, and a carrier bearing puller. Mine has just over 170k on it and its showing its age, its been leaking out of the pinion shaft seal for about a year and the drivers side axle seal since I've owned the truck. Anyways its been making lots and lots of noise and gotten bad enough in the past six months or so that it was way overdue for a rebuild so out it came... After the differential was on the floor, I decided to pull it apart of course, this is the part I forgot to take pics because my hands got covered in gear oil. So I'll walk you through it, first drain the oil, next pop the passenger side long axle shaft out with some taps from a hammer. It should pop right out, then remove the bolts holding the extension housing onto the axle, next turn over the axle and pop out the driver side axle shaft with a pry bar or tap it out either way should work. Then remove the bolts holding the case halfs together. The case has two dowel pins which lock it together so to separate the half you have to carefully tap it apart, do not try and pry in the sealing areas unless you want a leak. Once separated you will see the carrier with the ring gear and such. Go ahead and pull the carrier and put it on a work bench. My friend and I first started by using a carrier bearing puller to remove the old carrier bearings. Here you can see how trashed the rollers where on mine and the entire bearing was super super loose. After the carrier bearings are removed with the puller, go ahead and reinstall the new ones onto the carrier assembly. Once installed place this to the side in a clean area. Next pop out the side locks, on my diff the drivers side side lock tab was broken off and the adjuster was free to adjust as it felt which is not good!! This should also pop out the bearing races for the carrier bearings. After you get those out, we can move to the pinion. This is a little more tricky, impact gun off the nut holding on the yoke, then use a puller of your choice to pull the yoke off, then pop out the pinion shaft with a hammer (I think that is what we did at least), once the pinion shaft is removed use a brass punch or a large socket to remove the bearing races. We found these to be really stuck into the case and it took a lot of careful hammering on them to get them to come out. Once removed install the new races for the pinion bearings. This is where the bearing splitter comes into play, install it under the bearing that is left on the pinion shaft and take the setup over to the press. Use the press to press off the bearing on the pinion shaft its pretty straight forward. We used the press again to reinstall the new bearing onto the pinion shaft by dismantling the old bearing of its rollers and outer case to make a nice piece to press the new bearing back onto the shaft. Now you can put the pinion shaft back into the case so that the pressed on bearing is into the new race. Then install a new crush sleeve and install the outer bearing. Install a new pinion seal and make sure the grooves of the area of the yoke splines is clean and free of pipe thread sealant and apply new thread sealant onto the splines. Now install the yoke, washer and nut and snug it down. Next you need to crush the crush sleeve. Use an impact to tighten the nut down in increments and an inch lb gauge to feel the resistance of the spinning of the pinion shaft. You want to achieve 20 in lbs when spinning the pinion with nothing else touching it. Now install the new side lock tabs, reset the lock adjusters, and install the new carrier bearing races into the case halfs. Install the carrier unit with the new bearings into the pinion side case half. Next make sure you case half sealing surfaces are clean and apply a new bead of GM sealant (the red stuff) and put the case halfs back together and bolt them down. This is where the fun begins use the side lock adjusters to set up the lash, it is done by feel on these differentials and by adjusting the side locks you move the ring gear in closer or farther away from the pinion. You want to get this setup just right if not you will wear out the ring and pinion very quick. When you are done adjusting it you want to feel almost no play when spinning the yoke to turn the differential just a very slight bit of a "clunk" just barely. When set correctly you should end up with about 30 in lbs with everything setup correctly. We ended up with 25 in lbs with just the pinion installed and 35 in lbs with everything back together which we where happy with. Finally install the new driver side axle seal and axle shaft, install the extension housing with the GM red sealant and the new passenger axle shaft seal and finally the passenger side axle shaft goes back in. Congrats if you followed by long story of how to rebuild the front differential in your SS you will end up with a great working differential that will make no noise as you drive down the road and turn in parking lots! I am really glad I finally got to do this to my truck it makes it feel like driving a new truck again. I also installed new rear window arms from ebay that pull the windows in more so they seal up better and eliminate the wind noise issue, totally worth it! Good luck if you attempt this rebuild and make sure you have all the parts and tools on hand! This is the side lock adjuster we used.
  14. For Sale 2005 Chevy Silverado SS AWD 6.0 liter LQ9 engine, with magnaflow cat-back exhaust. Pewter ext. color with black leather interior. Fully loaded, heated seats, Bose 6 disk cd changer, Tinted front windows to match rear's, has hard painted to match Tonneau cover that locks and works great! Has Nitto tires with the factory chrome 20" wheels. I am the second owner always very well taken care of and serviced regularly. Clean car fax and title, NEVER has been wrecked or had any issues with it what so ever. Has 148k miles that are mostly highway miles, over all it is a VERY clean and dependable truck. Asking $15,000 O.B.O. No REASONABLE offer will be refused. Just needing to sell it because of a new job. If interested please call or text (660-553-8118) No emails, can send more pictures. Thank you!
  15. 2008 Saab 9-7x Aero 80k Miles Original Texas Title 6.0L V8 LS2 4" Air Intake Ported and Polished Throttle Body LS1 F-Body Electric Cooling Fans w/Nelson 3-relay Harness 160* Thermostat Nitrous Outlet 90mm Wet Plate NGK TR6 Spark Plugs MSD Spark Plug Wires ASP 25% Under Drive Pulley Full Computer Tune Pacesetter Ceramic Coated Long Tube Headers and Off-Road Y-Pipe 3.5"in /3.5" out Magnaflow Race Muffler Custom Center Mount 3.5" Exhaust System DJM Modified Upper Control Arms Belltech Adjustable Height Front Struts McGaughey's Front Lowering Springs Modified TBSSOwners.com 30.5" Rear Lowering Springs Belltech Rear Shocks Recently Replaced With A Low Mileage 4L70E w/ Phoenix Transmissions 3,500 RPM Stall Torque Converter B&M Super Oil Cooler AWD w/ 4.10:1 Torsen T3 Front Diff / 4.10:1 14-bolt Eaton LSD Rear Diff Carbon Flash Metallic Exterior (Aero Exclusive) w/lower plastic paint matched Black/Ebony Leather Seats, Power Front Seats, Aero Embroidered Front Seats Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel, Shift Knob, and Door Panels Aero Embroidered Floor Mats TBSS Gauge Cluster w/Aero Needles and Bezel (8k RPM, 140 MPH stock is 7k rpm/120mph) Navigation, Sunroof, CD Player, XM Radio, On-Star Rear DVD Entertainment System w/2 Headsets and Remote Emergency Air Compressor w/Air Hose and Gauge (Factory Built-In) Factory Projected HID headlights w/6000k HID Bulbs Factory Projected Fog lights w/3,000k HID Bulbs LED's Inside and Out 20x8" Saab 6-Spoke Aero Wheels Powder Coated Black with 275/45/20 Hankook Ventus Tires with about 80% life left The Aero has all the factory options except rain sensing wipers and headlight washers (both useless in my opinion). It has a little over 80k miles on it. I have raced it numerous times at the 1/4 mile track but I never abused it. I only use Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil and change it every 2-3k miles. The stock transmission was replaced recently with another low mileage 4L70E (about 3k miles ago). I also had the converter rebuilt when I changed out the transmission. Also has new u-joints and rebalanced driveshafts. I did my own tuning and mechanic work on it. I did dyno it when it was close to stock and it put down 315 AWHP but it runs high 12's in the 1/4 mile N/A and high 11's on the nitrous. I just put the nitrous kit on recently (500 mi.) I recently lowered it as well (about 2k mi.). I put new front rotors, brake pads, and wheels hubs when doing the drop kit. For more pics and the list of all my mods, go here... http://www.fquick.com/garages/Saab/9-7x/2008/32988 FYI: Only 500 Aero's were offered in 2008 and 119 in 2009. There were only 2 colors available, Carbon Flash Metallic and Diamond Silver. This is very similar to a TBSS except for the cosmetic differences and the retail price when new. $16,500 If you have any questions or would like more details/pics, let me know. Jesse (214)729- TWO ONE FIVE EIGHT Thanks! http://youtu.be/jIw4ETaWadc http://youtu.be/xzLPOsXLxzQ
  16. Yep, I'm selling my ZHAULR. I don't have to sell her, but if doing so puts my family in a better position financially then it's the smartest thing I can do right now. $13.2K OBO. KBB puts her at $14.2K in her current condition. I know I won't ever get what I've put into her so please no low-ball offers. Buyer pays for shipping. Call or text if your interested: Chris H. 979-637-0634 Details: Located in Williamsburg, VA 23188 2003 Silverado Super Sport AWD, Arrival Blue 6.0ltr LQ9 motor 128.5K on the clock Mods: Man fan delete/Electric fans form '05 Silverado PCM tuned for performance and electric fans by PCM for less 160 degree t-stat NGK TR-55 plugs Taylor wires Volant Cold Air intake with ram air scoop Flowmaster 10 series custom exhaust before axle Billet 5-piece front grill Billet fuel door Power Slot front brake upgrade (fronts are 14" rotors) Hawk HPS pads Nitto 420S tires (approx 4K mi on them) 285/50-20s KYB mono-max shocks up front, gas-adjust rears Goodridge stainless steel braided brakes lines Trailer brake control module (new, but not installed remote start from Avitol) (new, but not installed rear LED center brake light, Bully dog) The truck runs strong as an ox. 345hp/380tq from factory. With the mods and tune she should be around 365/400 now. I have no issues pulling my 2k lb trailer and the 3600lb camaro behind her.
  17. Hey all, I'm selling my 2004 Silverado SS. Pics are posted to my profile. Has just under 98k miles on it currently. Fresh oil change, new spark plugs, new power steering pump, new battery, K&N cold air intake, custom tuned chip for fuel injection/air intake ratio, custom Flowmaster MBAP pipe, new platinum spark plugs, new front and rear main seals, tires recently rotated. All scheduled maintenance has been taken care of. Truck is located in Northern VA If you have any questions feel free to contact at (703) 868-1314. (CALL, Will probably not respond to messages sent to my inbox on this website) No Bullshit offers, cash talks, I know what the truck is worth and won't put up with crap offers. Asking for $18,000
  18. Hi, lately if i really ever "get on it" with the SS, I hear about 2 pops coming from the middle of underneath the truck. You can also sort of feel it. The motor and transmission are fine. I can't even feel the transmission shift it's in such great shape and it doesn't even sound remotely close to the motor. The truck has 215k miles, but has been VERY well taken care of. I could be wrong, but I'm believing that the noise I'm hearing is coming from the transfer case. I've noticed that if I just drive the truck, the noise never occurs, but it's like it's only when I really get on the throttle is where it occurs. If I drop the truck in first gear, I can get it to happen repeatedly, due to the high torquing at such a low gear. It's still a consecutive 2 pops. If I don't get on it a bit, it never happens. The truck rides as smooth as butter. I'm thinking that maybe the chain is loose and needs to be replaced or I need to buy a rebuild kit with the back half of the casing and bearings, etc. The main driveshaft has a little bit of play and I've noticed a bit of grease around where it enters the transfer case. I was curious if anyone has any idea for the ideal online store to purchase such a rebuild kit. Or maybe someone has experienced the same issue and knows I'm un-accurate at the source of my popping. Thanks in advance guys!
  19. Two weeks ago, while I was driving from South Florida (Palm Beach Area) to Pennsylvania to tow a trailer back to move my daughter back from graduate studies at Penn State, the Transfer Case in my 2004 SSS failed. I just cleared 150,000 miles on the trip up. While I rarely tow anything, I drive in the city mostly, and I do tend to stomp on it more than my 2008 Corvette Z06. The SSS is completely stock with the exception of a PCMforLess tune and a Volant Air Filter. I have changed the fluid in the Transfer case twice over the years. I started hearing a growling noise in North Carolina at 70mph, which got progressively louder, which did not consistently occur or go away under different driving conditions (load, coasting, uphil, downhill, different gears, braking, etc), other than slowing down. Eventially we had to slow to below 47 mph in upper Maryland to alleviate the sound. I considered that noise = heat, so I preferred to arrive late than weld metal to metal at some point and be stranded. I took it to Klick Lewis Chevy dealer the next day (Palmyra PA) after I got to my daughter's place. Note 5 other Chevy dealers in Harrisburg and closer blew us off on the phone. I had assumed that it was a U-Joint, due to a whump/whump sound I heard at a lower speed after a gas stop. Even riding with the mechanic we could not hear anything with everything being now cold until he went over 60 (in a 40mph zone of their small town). On the lift, we discovered that the rear driveshaft Yoke was so loose in the Transfer case, that the Yoke could be pushed up and down at nearly 30 degrees from the horizontal axis of the Transfer case driveline. Therefore, there was no way that the splines were meshing with the rear driveshaft at all, and we must have made 1/2 of the trip on the Front drive alone of the AWD. The fluid was draining down the rear driveshaft. He said the thrust bushing must have gone. Klick Lewis was able to get a remanufactured unit in between Monday 2PM and Tuesday 10Am and I had the truck back by 1:30PM on Tuesday so they did jump thru hoops. So my 2 questions are; - what kind of reliablity have others on the board had with their SSS AWD Transfer Cases. I always expected that AWD would reduce the reliability of the truck some, so 150,000 miles is not really objectionable. - Second, I ended up paying $2450 for a reman AWD Transfer Case ($1499), a rear driveshaft new Yoke/U-Joint ($295), a second U-Joint, labor, fluid, $125 worth of Fed-Ex overnight costs and tax, with 10% discount coming to the $2450. I really had no choice, but do you all think that this was a fair price? Otherwise, the SSS has been a good truck for me. Any comments would be appreciated, Rick
  20. 2003 Chevrolet Silverado SS 1500. All Wheel Drive, 2nd owner, Extended cab, Shiny Black exterior with dark Gray leather interior, 145,000 miles, LT1 6.0 Liter V-8 engine producing ~450 hp. Professionally built & maintained, full list of drivers menities; power everything, tinted windows, stock Bose stereo system, Tri fold bed cover, spray-on bed liner, Black powdercoated OE 20” wheels. 15 mpg average in city, but it runs perfect and sounds great, this truck attracts a lot of attention. I am the second owner of this truck, bought it off-lease with 36,000 miles in 2006. This truck will run strong for many years to come…listed below is a summary of the upgraded and maintenance items that has been done to this vehicle. $12,900 or best offer. Call Tom at 248-207-7051 Performance features: American Racing long tube Headers Magnaflow Cat back dual exhaust 2003 Corvette Z-06 cam shaft Chevrolet Corvette L99 Cylinder Heads and intake system. K& N air cold air intake system TCM 4 Less performance tune 2400 rpm stall converter matching the HD transmission Professionally built 4L60-E automatic transmission with all of the strongest parts available Baer oversized brake rotors front and rear; 6 piston Corvette Z-06 piston calipers up front with Corvette Z-06 4 piston calipers in the rear GM Hydraboost brake system installed with all new lines, this is a huge improvement over the OE vacuum system Electric radiator cooling fans from LS-1 system Dana Tru-Trac rear end installed less than 7000 miles ago Suspension Lowered with Spindles in front and lowering blocks in rear Maintenance features performed within last 18,000 miles: OE GM fuel pump and filter LS2 Timing dual row chain LS2 hi-flow oil pump new alternator, power steering pump, starter, ball joints, wheel bearings, plugs, wires, Mobile one fluid throughout all drivetrain systems OE shocks replaced O2 sensors replaced Transfer case rebuilt Front differential rebuilt less than 12,000 miles ago. Pirelli Scorpion ATR tires less than 8,000 miles. Matching full size spare.
  21. Hey i hate to say it but im selling my 2005 silverado SS! Its as loaded as loaded gets with dual power heated leather seats, in dash 6 disc cd player, xm radio (built in), onstar, intergraded phone, dual digital climate control, power heated mirrors, factory chrome 20's! The truck is Victory red and has 73K on it. Has always been well maintained and has never seen crappy western New York or anywhere elses winters kept in a climate controled shop on concrete and under a cover and has been undercoated every fall even though its never seen salt! I love the truck and hate to see it go but im starting a family now and need something that i can drive all year round. It is still in hibernation for the winter so i dont have but a few pics of it! i know what KBB value is on the truck so please dont low ball me. Here are all the pictures I currently have- I have not taken it out of storage yet. When I do I will supply interior pictures, and better exterior pictures. I can promise you that this truck is in great condition, it has been my baby for years. CURRENTLY Asking: $21,000.00 or B/O **I want to apologise to anyone whom may have thought that I just put this post up to sell my truck, do to me being a new member. I put my truck up on here because even thought i really dont want to sell it, my life has changed. If I am selling this I want to sell it to someone whom will care for it, and treat it like i would- that is why i put it on here because i value that you all understand and appriciate these trucks. Thank you!
  22. Looking to buy stock or close to stock AWD 4L65E transmission. Let me know what you have. Thanks.
  23. Hi Gang. I Know i'm new here but I am selling my 2003 SS.I will attach a link to it on C-list. It is clean, from Kansas and currently in storage in Indiana. Please be aware it has a lien on it from USAA. I am moving on to restoring cars and just selling it cheap and hope to make some ones day. It has about 84k no mods and is in about perfect shape. Some minor scuffs of rear bumper cover. Interior is clean and not wearing out. All fluids fresh and flushed, new tune up and brakes. no issues. Please email me for details.. NOT A SCAM! http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/cto/3633637893.html
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