Fast2500Ak

In fair banks I've found that it gets so cold and dry that nothing will stick to the truck. Making it immortally clean. Until it warms up somewhat.

I'd imagine it would if you have traction control. Doesn't it read relative wheel speed and determine if a wheel is spinning the cut the throttle back? Leastwise thats how I thought it worked.

I have a dual in dual out magnaflow. Its alright, I got it because it was quiet and I my parents house is in a neighborhood which has a strict home owners covenant otherwise I might have gone strait pipes with an x. I did this video back in the day for a physics project. I was supposed to beak a wine glass with waves but try as I might I could only get the glass to flex with sound waves. Thats when I remembered the duality of light and deborglie's equation. Well long story short I gave up on sound and found the degobglie wavlength of my truck which in general form is defined by an objects mass and velocity (only works on little particles like electrons I know, anything big and the accuracy goes way off. I ran the wine glass over and filmed it for my presentation, which received an A. This is the presentation minus the running over the glass part edited for my myspace page. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3QJAffxDIk It has a few different shots I was about to do a cam swap awhile back but then a cash eating monster named college attacked me. I think when I get around to the swap I'll probably go with straits and an x. This magnaflow didn't drone at first but now that its nice and broken in it does it quite badly. 12'SROCK your truck sounds badass

Could be a power issue, I know that once when my maf was failing the code specifies low circuit voltage. I think the IAT is connected in there somehow too, I know those sometimes like to stick. When my MAF failed it would just die at idle, I'd hit a stoplight, and sometimes it be ok, the sometimes it would just stumble then die. Got really annoying.

That just happened to me at -40 to -50 degree weather, not fun.

I'll check to see if its frozen, thanks again I think this is probably the cause. Yes its spinning

Good point, bit it seems like it isn't working for a while. Heres a few examples. The first time was a few weeks ago, the first time it got good and cold. I autostarted it twice and came out to find no heat and the temp needle a few ticks past normal. I let it cool down a bit and fired it up and it went completely back to normal. A few weeks later I take the truck out and after a while of no heater I noticed that was up to temp and started to worry, I turned around and got it to my gramma's house. This time it was a bit warmer closer to the top of the temp gauge but I got it shut off before it got into the red. I let it sit a few minutes and again it was fine. I went out to the dorm parking lot. -40 and I drove it over to my gramma's house, and again it overheated, not badly (Thank god Fairbanks is such a small town). I twisted the cap and let it puke up a half gallon of coolant then refilled with strait dexcool (no water). After about 10 min it was fine. This morning it did it again only it about halfway it started working again. It was right as it pushed past norm temp it snapped back and the heater fired up. When it comes back online its sudden, the heater blows hot and the temp drops back to normal. If I have ice in the lines it could be when the ice melts it starts working again, is that a possibility? It just seems to resume too suddenly to be a pump. But I might just replace it anyways, cheap insurance even if it doesn't work. Thanks again for all the help!

I think you might be on to something, it seems like when the engine is hot (block heater) and the ambient temperature is very cold is when this happens. You think it might be the differential in temperature between the engine and radiator Not too badly, the worst time was the only time it went from check temp to overheat, but I killed the engine and pushed it the rest of the way into the driveway. Could this have to do with the antifreeze mix I like that idea, and I wish I had a garage.

I know! its cold up here! Yes I have a block heater but the university parking lot cycles the outlets on 15 min then off 15 min so they just keep things from freezing.

Thats what I've been thinking. These stats are supposed to stick open though. I'm thinkning it might be the water pump, how expensive would it be to have the replaced, its way to cold to even think about doing it myself. Temperature update -46 with ice fog

Well it's -40 and my truck decided that it wants to keep all of the heat to itself. The heater core is getting no heat and the neither is the radiator. She's overheated once or twice since the problem started but never tapped the gauge. Sometimes taking off the radiator cap will get things going again so I thought it was just air in the lines. The surge tank level is good. The thermostat is fairly new the old one went right before winter. I'm thinking it might be the water pump. Any ideas? I'm freezin' up here? Any input will be greatly appreciated.

Mine dose something like that too sometimes but has to be below -35, did it to me this morning. It was close to 50 below and when the latch gets cold it sticks but sort of feels solid just a little loose, WD-40 helps a little bit but something that would stay on better might have better results. Sometimes holding a lighter to the metal latch'll free it up. Other than that just wear your seatbelt and don't lean on it, and especially wear your seatbelt if you plan on leaning on it. My moneys on it freezing but it could be something else, will it do this consistently? At 26 above with forst you might have had some humidity. Does your truck live in a garage or on the driveway?

What I like about the Magnaflow is that its loud under throttle, but it just rumbles as soon as you get your foot out of it.

I got a red top with a few years on it in my truck, its been discharged many times. Thing doesn't stop cranking hard until colder than -40, alot of cars just can't find the amps to crank at those temperatures. Still if I leave lights on it drains pretty fast.

Well that is exactly right, the MAF had failed. That was causing the dying at idle, but the high rpm stalling was the result of a dying fuel pump. That was why it was hard to pin-point the problem as it had compounded itself. Shop just got done replacing units. Thanks again for all the input