SRT10KLLR

Nitrous Outlet plate kit ftw.

Would that one be the Trick Performance one? I was just about to buy that one. They used to make an aluminum one but now they have a plastic unit that is a little less money. If you made it less tall would the curved support fit? Also, could you make one with the FPR against the firewall instead of on the side? Looking at pics it seems as though it could be done since the firewall comes in a little a couple of inches from the top. I would be interested in this one until you could build the other tank and then sell this one. It just needs to hold enough fuel for about 4 hits because on a 200 shot that as all the runs you can get on a 10lb bottle anyways. I could add more fuel when switching bottles.

Will the support that runs from the firewall to the fender still work? Also, can the line be changed to a -4 since my fuel solenoid comes that way? Trying to up the spray to 200 so this would make it a lot easier.

It is normal for the a/f to go into the 18-19 when you let off as there is no load on the engine. It is probably just your DFCO kicking in.

On a NA aplication you will not gain very much but since you are blown you can definitely take advantage of it. Most meth kits come with some sort of hobbs switch that will activate the spray only at 0 vacuum or at 1, 2, 3 etc PSI. That way it will not be used during normal driving.

When I first had it tuned I was like wtf why am I down on power and then my times were not good either but the engine was not built for all out NA but for boost. I have talked to Casey a couple of times and he told me he was running the same times as me before he put the turbo on. Any way, Less said his buddy has a 6.0 with a 150 shot on the stock pump so I am going to turn it up like that until my fuel pressure drops. If I can get similar gains from every 50 shot then I should be very close to the high 11's on a 200 shot. I know it gets progressively harder to go faster the lower your ET though so we will see. Did you do any filming?

I went to Fontana yesterday to make some runs and hopefully make some nitrous runs too. I was finally able to use the juice. Someone at the tack lent me there tool to remove the Schrader valve from the fuel rail so I could get fuel to the solenoid. I just had jets in there for a 50 shot since I am not tuned for nitrous and did not have a wideband hooked up. I finally got it going Chase. BTW, did you happen to take your video camera? Hopefully Reynaldo can help dial me in for a bigger shot for next time. Then finally the turbo after that. I am trying to sell me two GT-76's to get one big turbo instead because my piping was designed fir only one turbo. Here are my times. Worked out really well as I was able to bring my times down by 1/2 a second with a 50 shot.

I just saw a post on LS1 from a member there selling his T-70's for $500 each. For that price you could buy both in case you ever build the engine and still come out on top. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/parts-classifieds/1418463-2-mp-turbos-sale.html

Cancel that order and get my STS kit instead. You can save 1K even with an upgraded T-70 MP turbo. I have a brand new STS kit I could sell you if you are interested. Will let it go for $2200 without the turbo. You can pick up a Master Power turbo for $500. I do have the turbo that came in the kit but I upgraded it from the 60-1 to the GT-76 so it is probably too big for your application. I have it for sale by itself for $1200 on PT. The kit I have is for the reg cab but I have an extra pipe to make it fit yours.

Twin HTA 3586R's ball bearing turbos with a Tial turbine housing would be perfect. They are similar to what Chase is running but bigger with billet compressor wheel and a stainless steel turbine housing. I have a guy near Superior that is going to be building me a twin top/front mount for a nnbs truck. He will also be making my setup if I don't sell my GT-76 turbos. My Trick kit was designed for a single but I have to turbos.

I have a brand new STS kit I could sell you if you are interested. Will let it go for $2200 without the turbo. You can pick up a Master Power turbo for $500. I do have the turbo that came in the kit but I upgraded it from the 60-1 to the GT-76 so it is probably too big for your application. I have it for sale by itself for $1200 on PT. The kit I have is for the reg cab but I have an extra pipe to make it fit yours.

You are looking for these? I have only sen them in EV1(minitimer / LS1) to EV6(USCAR / LS3) not for our Multech II trucks. I have seen some of the specs and have been using them for about three years without any issues. I just popped them in and changed the IFR. No other changes to the tune like min/max pulse width, battery offset etc. needed. Also, no adapters, crimping, soldering, spacers etc. needed either.

That is referencing the fuel pressure they were rated at. 3 bar is 43.5 PSI(what most aftermarket injectors are rated at) and 4 bar is 58 PSI(what our trucks run at). If the price is the same then get 60lb/hr injectors that are rated at 3 bar as they would flow more(about 70) in your truck.

Good runs! I went there a couple weeks ago after not going for a while.

I have been reading a lot about nitrous over on ls1 and everyone says not to use the TR6's. The BR6EF is a better plug to use over a TR6 because it has non projected tip and is the same heat range. If you are going to spray 100 or more you may want to go to the BR7EF's. BTW, I have a Nitrous Outlet truck specific plate kit that I will sell you if interested.