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11H

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Everything posted by 11H

  1. $180 ??? I know you guys on here LOVE your mail order tunes... But Johan at Diablosport is the head tuner and knows the guys you get most your mail order tunes from and they share secrets ... Good thing is, this has custom tunes you can convert that HE wrote for my truck and you have the data monitoring capability ... I have several tunes for 87 / 91 / 93 Come on guys don't dis the pred ...
  2. I traded my 2006 Vortec Max off and need to sell my Tuner. $199 includes free shipping to the 48 states. This is good for 2006 and 2007 classic styles (not gmt900 trucks) ... Most all V8 Pickups and SUV's including avalanche ... It is like brand new and was used a couple times to program my truck ... Unit is unlocked and has the protective covering still on the screen. Has the 2006 rev firmware so you have all the adjustability... I actually can email you some custom tunes I have and you can have Johan at diablosport convert them to your VIN ... I have several 92/93 tunes, 91 tunes and some 87 MPG and 91 MPG tunes ... many custom features like various TQM settings ... Fans on 1 minute after key off, etc I have the latest tune they offer as custom and I dynoed my VMax and saw almost 20rwhp and 22 lb ft ... Plus on all custom tunes I have the 2 second open loop delay removed as well as the limiter ... You can customize these tunes in the pred as well ... Like I said, I will email you the tune files and Johan Mangs at diablosport SHOULD be able to resend them with your VIN so you can use them ... I ran the tunes on a 2006 VMax with a cat back and a drop-in filter ... email me at [email protected] if you want it ... also that's my paypal address ... I will ship free the tuner Priority Mail ... ~Jeff
  3. Good Info Mike ! ... So did you weigh your's at 5220? ... I think you have most all options too right? 11H
  4. LOL not a chance in hell ... Unless you race them in the rain and you have AWD ... sorry, Fbodies are a stretch ... even a stock 1993-up LT1
  5. I am guessing that's about $10K over wholesale book ... good luck ... Maybe wait 20 years and try again ...
  6. They used to be restricted under the 1994 AWB, but since the 1994 assault weapons ban sunset in 2004, they are legal to have ... stamped mags are now like any other hicap mag ... however on the mag capacity thing there are several states that have their own laws governing capacity ... and on the 10 rd P220ST statement above, I thought the P220 had a single stack mag in 7 or 8 round capacity depending on the mag manufacturer?
  7. Gates ... Nuff said ...
  8. Intresting idea...a heirarchy of manliness based on vehicle. I guess it makes sense...anyone remember the isuzu AMIGO? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Ya know, the Amigo had some serious potential, it was available with 31" tires stock, short wheelbase, and nice manual deep gearing ... Motor branded by Daewoo. (built by Holden) ... I was hard on a black one back in the day ... Back then it was a tough choice between a wrangler with all their problems and an Amigo ... But to all fairness to your approach, the whole "manly" potential of the vehicle was killed by all the vivid colors available in that day in age ... I remember a mauve or pink and a mint green or some chit ... The whole pseudo soft top JEEP alternative for me was gone after that ... I ended up buying a GMC Gypsy Sport S15 (4.3 extra cab with sport 2 tone paint and leather) ... Now that was a machine back in '88 ... Black and Red
  9. It just so happens the last several years, on the 1500 series trucks, there is a healthy dose of TQM on the upshift on the 1-2 ... On the T/H empty thing ... I haven't read in the manual about damage, but I don't read the manuals much anymore as I have had 6 Gen III trucks ... If it actually says damage occur running T/H empty, and it is OK with a load, that seems counter to the events to me ... They are then saying that it is easier on the sun shell, and driveline components for it to shift in T/H with a LOAD than WITHOUT? --- How are the stresses LESS with a load? (LMAO) ... Maybe they are worried about driveline slack take-up under low throttle inputs and being in T/H ... ??? My take is this ... I hear rumors from people that work at the Proving Grounds here, and some time ago, GM was considering removing the TH button to inhibit the consumer from being able to run it when THEY felt it was not needed... BUT, the marketing dept and higher ups said NO to leave it there because the R&D cost to incorporate it, and it being a selling icon for the platform over the competitors, it outweighed the RISK to the unweighted driveline (aka slack) ... As far as the transmission is concerned, I know many many people that run it 24/7 because it allows less slipping of friction material, and they have a lot of miles on their 1500's with no ill efects ... If it in fact says it in tha manual, I am betting they are putting it there to cover their butt on driveline abuse, and the mileage statement is there also to cover their butt with the EPA/fuel economy ... my .02
  10. 11H

    07 rst

    what's up with the "TRUFLOW" intake system? looks like a painted straight tube to me with a stock box ... ??
  11. Everyone here seems to only be concentrating only on tranny abuse ... you also need to think about the driveline after the tranny. That BOOM that is felt during the 1-2 upshift w/ 3-4000 lbs. of additional calculated load is, w/o a doubt an increase in line pressure, and more positive application of the clutches. However ... what kind of wear do you think is applied to the diffs. and other driveline components? My SS has been experiencing some serious front-end growl the last 10K miles, and I do believe that she's gonna end up @ the dealer before the end of the year. Simply looking underneath SS's that are AWD shows that the front end is not built for the torque ratings of the 6.0L motor. Ask any GM Technician ... they've been having problems with the SS's and the Escalade front ends, because it's a weak design. So ... can the 4L60 handle the additional torque? Sure. Can the rest of the truck? I would be careful ... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Hmmm ... look at post #10 ... IMO the reason the SS has front end issues (growl) in my opinion is because it is AWD, and driven on pavement ... There is slippage in the TCase yes, at it is supposed to be able to be AWD and driven on pavement, but there is DEFINITELY more side loading of the carrier bearings and the front diff in general ... Is it the reason for failures? I don't know, but I DO know a part time 4WD system has less problems maybe just because it's not used all the time ... And also, my opinion on STRENGTH ... I think it being AWD, and having the torque split between front and back, I think the strength issue is of no concern... The diffs when split, don't see the loading a single diff sees for example ... again, not arguing, just my view ...
  12. Actually, very good points made here ... HOWEVER 1. In the 2006 VMax, there are more than one Trans calibration, and the cal in the 2006 Vmax is unique ... If he has an old one, and the new one is part of a TSB, and it is coincidence with HIS clunk complaint on upshift, they MAY reflash PCM ... 2. They cannot tell what was changed in the pcm as you said, it's all binary and not one tech I know is concerned about that enough for it to be in their priorities in making money at a dealership ... HOWEVER, they can tell when the PCM was reflashed ... This may bring up a line of questioning that you might want to be prepared for if you have a related mechanical concern ... You did the right thing by putting original PCM back ... Better safe than sorry .. 11H
  13. I apologize if I am sounding like I am "preaching" it is not my intent. What sorta pull at me however is that good intentioned people can get mixed up in bad things, and when a post like this comes up on the net, you get all sorts of responses. If someone has taken to heart some advice and they act on it, it can be harmful if they do something wrong, and all of a sudden good guy becomes bad guy and for what? some puke who started wronging you in the first place? discretion by responders goes a long way nowadays and things can be averted... In this case of road rage, there is nothing saying you have to engage the perpetrator.. simply drive to the nearest PD and if you don't know where it is, call 911 and explain to the dispatcher what is happening and never stop, except to avoid a collision, stay in car, lock doors and stay as safe as possible ... all of it will be recorded as soon as the 911 operator answers the cell call ... If you don't have a cell, well, get one because any cell can call 911 for free as long as you have a signal and a battery charged ... you can assert yourself with a response, but then a stressful situation becomes one that will be judged later-on. and of course if you are found not in accordance to the law, you may have consequences, whether you feel you were in the right or not ... peace
  14. Black2003SS, Don't take things wrong here ... (I see this coming to an argument) ... It seems you are antimate in thinking you were in the right ... Well, maybe morally, maybe in your heart, and maybe by your standards ... (Which seem to be stemming from wholesome character) ... BUT I will not go into my background because it's not relevent here. I will say that if it went down exactly as you said, you were LEGALLY in the wrong more than he was, and you would have a hard time articulating self defense to any Officer, Court, or Jury ... If it went down as you said, LEGALLY you could be charged with a Crime/s that would put you away significantly longer than he, if he got jail at all for his part up to the point of his (sounding) severe injury ... And in a Civil suit, he would have walked his dog on you ... You're very lucky to be free from that situation ... I am sure any of the Officers on here who would care to chime-in would agree ... If you feel the need, I can go point by point where you went wrong ...
  15. I have a full Volant kit in the for sale section ... used very briefly ... About $100 off retail or more ... Perfect ... 11H
  16. There's some sound advice ...
  17. If the Police don't do anything about it, make sure you keep all records of the ER visit and any follow-up visits and take pictures of your face with a time stamp on the camera/pics ... If after a few weeks there is no resolve with the Police, go to the City or County Attorney's office and show them what you have done thus far to pursue the situation ... If that gets nowhere, hire a Lawyer to write a letter to them ... (In the mean time review your laws regarding personal defense items and DONT violate any law in regards to weapons, if you choose gun, get training on basics, I would not advise this in the interim, gun for defense effectively takes a lot of training!!!!! ... Best example so far was a nice short bat that gives you reach and is not viewed in courts as a deadly weapon Sometimes what a municipality won't do anything about, the County will if the Municipality dumps it ... If after all of this official business, and documentation the guy comes after you again, and you swing-away or put him out, when you articulate self defense, you have all the justification in the world because you pursued politically correct means first ... Bottom line, "He and they left you no choice but to defend yourself" ... If he is crippled as the result of you trying to stop his forward personal attack, or worse dead, well that's his problem ... It also helps you if a surviving family member sues you, if you back yourself up like this first ... and if possible, try to have a witness to your actions and STAY POLITE WITH HIM AND WARN HIM YOU ARE PREPARED TO DEFEND YOURSELF IF NEED BE ... DO NOT THREATEN HIM OR TAUNT HIM ... (YOU ARE THE SMARTER ONE IN THE END, WE HAVE A WORLD OF COURTS AND SUCH REMEMBER THAT, HE HAS RIGHTS BY LAW EVEN WHILE HE'S BASHING YOUR FACE IN ... BEING RIGHT IS NOT ALL IT TAKES, YOU HAVE TO BE RIGHT BY THE LAW WHICH TAKES SOME PREP) ... It would suck to end up in Jail for something this guy took to extremes previously ... It can happen if you go on the offensive
  18. The right way to race your 4L60E tranny is to manually drop it all the way into 1st gear - that signals the computer to fully apply the clutches in 1st gear; once you are off the line bump the shifter into 3rd and leave it there until the end of your run. With factory PCM programming, if you leave at WOT in Drive the tranny clutches do not get max pressure, meaning that there is a chance for slippage of the 1st gear clutches. Mr. P. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> That's GOLDEN right there folks ... write that down ... You can actually feel more engagement if you pay close attention when you go from D to 1 ... I always thought it was a viscous thing or a disengagement/engagement thing because of the selector movement ... cool beans P ... How about launching in 2 ... (j/k)
  19. This brings me to an interesting thought ... 1. for sake of mention, the current batch of 4L60E's (2002 up) and derivatives are LIGHT YEARS ahead of the same trans in 1994 (someone mentioned a Camaro LT1) ... Absolutely no comparison ... If I had to venture a guess, with the hard upgrades and electronics in the new stuff, the 1994 version has been upgraded to the tune of I would say 40-50% better ... Not necessarily in max torque handling specs, but HOW it handles it, and in turn, how long it handles it ... 2. I have talked to old school tranny builders who continue to say, "artificially increasing line pressure over stock in a 4L60E/700R4 is going to lead to sure death" ... a. Line pressure is line pressure whether created via valving/shift kit OR PCM controls. b. If merely increasing line pressure hurt things, then they need to drive a newer GM 1500 series truck with T/H engaged with about 3 or 4 thousand pounds behind her and feel the 1-2 shift at about 3/4 throttle with some rpm hang right before the shift ... The word is BOOM ... That's factory programming ... Now tell me, how is adding a bit of line pressure via programming in normal mode gonna hurt things again? my .02
  20. A few people told me this mode is good for racing <{POST_SNAPBACK}> It lowers lock-up range in the verter clutch, it lowers shift point RPM at wot, raises it at part throttle, and reduces shift commanded (overlap) times ... However it DOES NOT change timing and fuel ... T/H is trans only I think I got it all
  21. Exactly ... And they wonder WHY there is some degree of deception from the consumer.. The day "they" became warranty police, is the day when egos and opinions started governing to some degree ... It's with anything like you say, be polite to those that have the power to screw you ... Sure, there is Magnuson Moss, but who has thousands of dollars to hire a lawyer over a mechanical repair? Service knows it and that's how they get away with most of the ludicrous denials ... I have a story too ... (imagine that) GM has what they call "TPC" (tire performance criteria) ... and a whole division dedicated to it and what combinations they put on vehicles ... I had a set of BFG all terrains just put on my 2000 Z71 (oem size) and a few months later I got a driveline vibration ... I took it to dealer "X" and they drove it, and technician said, "no issues with driveline, road test OK, customer installed over-size off-road tires" ... and put it in the computer ... well, I know it was not the tires, as I am an experienced wrencher ... I go to a couple other dealers and they see the notation in computer and won't look at my truck under warranty ... So a few months later I go to CO and drop it off at a local dealer there, and they look at it ... I got a good tech who already had the same vibe and told me he thought the rear diff housing was milled off-center ... He had been round and round with GM support and they told him of a few diffs in my manuf range that had issues so they told him already how to measure for it ... well, sure enough, it was machined off center, and put a side load on the rear driveline and wore out some parts pre-maturely ... Because I was out of town and the large parts order was a couple weeks out, they took a complete rear axle and prop shaft assembly from one of their lot units and got me on my way as I was on vacation ... This all came about because I was experienced, and articulate with the RIGHT people that took care of me ... Now what would happen if a non-experienced customer had this issue? They would have put a TPC qualified tire back on the truck, had the same issue, and potentially went to lemon law and buyback ... or worse, stuck with it
  22. I am not going against what anyone is saying, but Mr P put it best ... The same reason I don't down-shift with a manual (unless it's a big rig) ... Brakes are cheaper than driveline friction material as he said, bands and clutches ... Just use some common sense, if the trans upshifts at say 65 mph at wot, don't drop it down at 65 or higher and nail it ... The biggest concern I have with manually shifting (if you are a novice, and if you have to ask a question like this you are a novice) is driveline slack ... Say you drop her in 1st gear at 35 mph, and punch the throttle ... What you're doing, is first, putting the driveline against "backlash", then nailing it and taking up the slack ... all parts get whacked when the slack is taken up ... IMO, this is where you get into unnecessary abuse ... Now if say you are into the gas nice and good in 2nd, and then you drop it into 1st under load, that would be better, but not optimum ... Any time you are shifting manually, you are over-riding the powertrain's sequence of steps taken (mechanically and more-so pcm wise) to make a shift ... There are things that happen in programming during shifts that are there to theoretically lessen driveline abuse ... There are controls however that won't let you over-rev it or drop it down if going too fast rpm wise or speed wise, but those limits are on the high side ... Basically, if you do it, don't do it often, make sure the slack is taken up out of the d-line before you hammer it, and don't drop it down from too high a speed ... Use some common sense; if it feels like it's too harsh on it, it probably is to some degree ... my .02
  23. Well folks, it seems that the ball is well under way to inhibit many modifications to our vehicles as far as aftermarket (read performance) parts ... GM is at a financial challenge point and it just makes business sense on their part ... I have been a long time Customer of Brown and Brown chevrolet and over the 12 years I have bought 9 or 10 vehicles from them ... I have established some unique relationships along the way and things that used to NOT BE a big deal are now becoming a BIG DEAL ... I cannot speak for the downtown store because I don't go to that service center much, I am only speaking of the POWER / SUPERSTITION store ... The heat has really been turned up on aftermarket performance parts and warranty claims ... And it seems it is coming down from the area representative ... I was told by a close Service Advisor / Asst Service mgr, this ... They and the Technicians have been trained and coached on what to "SPOT" and "LOOK FOR" in aftermarket parts ... To the point to where when a vehicle drives up, the advisor is to note (potentially on the ticket) any aftermarket parts on the vehicle, and namely any and all that MIGHT be contributing to the complaint and/or problem/failure ... This is very discretionary, and I can see where this will be abused to "save some money" ... I was told that it is all verbal at this point, but the day is soon coming where the service tickets will have a place where it says something like, : If any aftermarket part/s are deemed to contribute to or cause the failure or concern, the customer is responsible for all charges associated with a repair ... Bottom line is, advisors or techs that have no knowledge of what certain parts are or DO, or a combination thereof, have the authority to NOW search, note, and refuse based on orders from above ... which then becomes a argument of semantics on the service drive between the customer and manager on what or if the problem caused ... magnuson Moss yes, states that a warranty cannot be void just for the presence or parts, but is Magnuson Moss going to be there on the drive arguing opinions on the service drive? Some examples of items that were "too invasive" in the powers that be ... If you have an aftermarket set of plug wires and a coil fails, they COULD deny claim ... If you have a cai with an oiled filter, they could deny a maf sensor claim and anything that arose from it, WHETHER OR NOT YOU OILED IT OR IT WAS FACTORY OILED FROM THE FILTER MAKER !!! --- If you have an aftermarket cat-back, and you have an O2 sensor fail, you could be denied ... If you have a PCM failure and there's proof it was rewriten, you could be denied ... If you have body noises or squeaks and you have an aftermarket exhaust the resonates louder than stock, you could be denied ... If you have oversize aftermarket wheels with a non-factory offset and you have a failure in the steering box or similar non-wear item, you could be denied ... It goes on and on ... Now here's a really "off one" ... If you think by putting GMPP parts on your truck, you are "safe" ? ... Well, GM does NOT endorse the product to be compatible and free of deniability of warranty coverage on related parts if a NON-GM certified tech installs it ... which means, a dealership must install it for it to be backed as a compatible item ... Now what this comes down to is how your relationship is with the dealer and their relationship with the area rep ... But I thought it would be proper to get the word out to those in AZ who are planning a warranty trip to the dealership ... I was told that a lot of this "politics" has stemmed from the Diesel crowd and huge warranty claims that result from "turning up" diesels and the resultant high repair costs due to large oversize tires, lifts, edge boxes, etc ... It has trickled down to gas trucks as well now because they can't single-out the diesels ... The parts dept who actually sold diesel boost boxes and tuners, and oiled gauze filters has been told to remove them from sale ... This is posted as my take on the subject and my opinion and only ... It is not stated as fact and your results may vary ... I think, that there have been enough cases to where Joe Customer has modded his vehicle to the point to where any reasonable person would agree that if something broke, that GM of course would not be liable under a manufacturer defect warranty ... namely, if you have a cai, a cat back, and some wires, or similar, and a U-Joint fails, I think you should not be hassled ... But if you have that, and a torque converter, headers, pcm tune installed with removed TQM, and a radix, and you lose your tranny or break a U-Joint, you should not hit GM up for a warranty claim and you have gone way beyond the limits of oem components ... And from what I hear, it is these types of customers that have fought toe to toe with delaerships here that have made it hard on the small modder guys as rules have to now be made and all may have to comply ... I would hope that some aftermarket companies see this and take a position to back up the consumer in instances where a dealership is being unreasonable on a claim ... actively! ... Not just simply putting a statement on your site that says, "our products does NOT void warranty" and cite the Magnuson Moss law ... It has to go further than that ... S&B filters for example has scientific data on their site that clearly shows their filters are more effecient at trapping dirt than an AC Delco ... and that metered amounts of oil avert warranty claims and they actually have an applicator that dispenses the right amount for Joe consumer ... This is what we need ... If the manager meets me on the drive, and denies my maf failure for example, I have 15 sheets of paper to sit him down with that shows the filter and the oil is not at fault ... later guys ...
  24. 11H

    Help Please

    I have done some research with my local dealership and I have been told that many 2007 trucks have been setting SES lights with cold air kit installations ... I was told that there is less leeway in the PCM to allow for it to adjust to the kits with the factory calibration ... Also, a technician, 2 advisors, and service manager told me that GM is cracking down on excessive warranty claims due to mis-matched aftermarket or poorly designed aftermarket parts, to the point to where if a customer pulls up on the drive, they are to lift the hood, look inside and note any aftermarket parts on the ticket, and notify the customer that if the aftermarket part induces the complaint, or contributes to it, that the CUSTOMER is responsible for the charges !!!! ... I think that is BOGUS !! I was told, one way to get people to NOT install an aftermarket cai was to tighten up the PCM calibration to set a light and avert the customer/s from installing upgraded intake parts ... (There are many kits that are well designed, and many $30 kits made overseas on eBay) FWIW Now whether all this is true, I have no idea, as far as WHY they tightened up the pcm calibration, but it IS happening on many 07's especially if you have oxygenated fuel in your area ... Just food for thought ... BTW, If the K&N was new and you didn't add oil to it, your MAF would not be contaminated ... If it was a used filter, then whomever oiled it may have over oiled it and thrown off your maf signal ... If you suspect this, you have already compromised the maf, so purchase some ELECTRICAL PARTS CLEANER (FAST EVAPORATING) and lightly spray the inside of the maf and let it air dry ... be careful and only fog it, don't use the straw on the can, do not hit the internals with too much pressure ... be gentle with it ... as long as the oil didn't varnish up, you should be ok then ... (If you think this is the problem)
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