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Everything posted by diggerdan11

  1. So lately i have heard lots of questions like: "how can I get my DRL's to stay on when my headlights are on?" or "how can keep my low beams on when I switch to my Highs?" I know that many members on this site already know the answer to this question, but there are plenty of new people who do not. I figure it would be nice to places that lists all the different options and how to perform them. Disclaimer: I will not take any responsibility for any unforeseen issues that may result from someone performing these modifications. Also some of these modifications may be illegal, check your state laws. The simplest way to add more light to your vehicle is to do a Diode Mod. There are other ways to perform these modifications, but these are the cheapest and easiest and I have done some of these modifications without any issues. First you need to purchase a diode from Radio Shack or any other electronic store. Radio Shack part numbers 4001, 4002, 4003, and 4004 will all work, and they usually come in a 2 pack for about $1. It hink i used a 50v 3W diode, but im not 100% sure. A diode is a super simple electrical device that allows current to flow one direction but not the other. Diodes either have one end that is a different color have a line painted on one end. It is very important that you have the diode lined up correctly or it wont work (Follow the diagrams). For example if you do the 4-High mod listed below you want to makes sure the diode is set so the current flows from the high to the low, which triggers the low beams to come on with the highs. If you hook it up wrong it will have your highs come on with your lows which is a no no. You can also buy some heat shrink to protect the Diode but it is not necessary. Then you are going to want to located the fuse box under the hood of your truck, and located the relays you will need to pull based off of which mod you want to do (see diagrams below). And make sure you located the 85 pin on the relay. You just need to simply removed the relay and place one end of the diode into the hole for the 85 pin Then plug the relay back in. Then put the other end of the diode into the 85 pin of the other relay. Which relays you use are different depending on what modification you want to do (See diagrams below). Some people have also soldiered the diode to the 85 pin of the relay, but I don't think it is necessary and you risk screwing something up. Some have had issues with there diode coming loose, but I had this mod for 6 years in my SS with no problems. Here are some Diagrams showing the different modifications you can do. I will add more if needed and I will try to get up a couple pictures that show the lights lit up. 4-High Mod. This is the most popular mod and will allow your lows to stay on when you turn on your highs (something GM should have done to begin with) If you have HIDs or are planning on adding HIDs I highly recommend that you do this mod. HID's have a bad habit of taking a couple seconds to heat up and come up to full brightness (especially when its cold outside). The last thing you want to do is switch back to your lows after having your highs on for a long time and not be able to see. This happened to me and I almost ran off the road, the next day i did this mod. This will allow your Daytime Running Lights (DRL's) to stay on when your headlights come on. You can also run the diode the opposite way and make it so your lows stay on all the time. There are also other ways to go about that mod, but Im not sure how. This will allow you to have your fog lights automatically come on when your low beams come on. Warning: In Oregon you are technically only allowed to use your fog lights in low visibility (Fog, snow, heavy rain), and technically you are suppose to turn of your fogs when you approach an oncoming vehicle (just like with your highs). Check your states laws. 6-High Mod. Highs, Lows, and Fogs all stay on when you turn on your highs This mod is usually illegal since your only allowed to have a total of 4 lights on at anytime. 6-High Mod. Highs Lows and DRLs are on when you turn your highs on. This is also illegal, but not even close to being as bright as the Highs/Lows/ Fogs mod. 6-High Mod. Your DRL's stay on with your Lows, and your Lows stay on with your Highs giving you 6 lights. This is also illegal, but not even close to being as bright as the Highs/Lows/ Fogs mod. 6-High Mod. Your Fog lights stay on with your lows, and your lows stay on with your Highs giving you 6 lights. This is also illegal, but not even close to being as bright as the Highs/Lows/ Fogs mod. 8-Hight Mod. Highs, Lows, Fogs, and DRL's are all on at the same time Do you really need to do this? Extremely bright and Highly Illegal. DRL's on with the Parking Laps If any others have done other modifications like this let me know and I can create a diagram and add them to the list. Here are some pictures of the Diodes installed. I found these on the internet and they show the 6-high mod with the lows, highs, and fogs when the highs are on.
  2. diggerdan11

    Man this place is dead!

    That’s one if the problems with a specialty vehicle that is now 11-15 years. People stop becoming so enthusiastic, people sell their vehicles and the next people don’t seem care as much about them or being part of an online forum. I think another issue is the 3 billion Facebook car groups out there. I still check in from time to time even though I do not own an SS anymore
  3. diggerdan11

    AWD vs. RWD

    The AWD will most definitely launch faster but the RWD is lighter and has higher gears so it will reel the AWD in. Years ago I raced a similarly modded RWD in my AWD. I came off the line much faster and my 1/8 of a mile time and speed were much higher, but it beat me in the quarter. It was in Phoenix at 100+ degrees do the time were slow. He beat me 15.03 to 15.04 and was about 4mph faster Tried to upload the video but it did not work
  4. diggerdan11

    Bi-Xenon Retrofit How To, And How Not To

    So I recently did a Morimoto HID retrofit in my HD so i figured I would do a little write up on what exactly I did and show you the problems I had trying to get this to work properly. You will need: Bi-Xenon Retrofit Kit A Dremel Disposable gloves Silicone sealant (may not be used, but would be good to have just in case) Screw Drivers (one small, and at least one medium), or a butter knife can also work Needle nose pliers A 27mm socket (may not be 100% necessary, you will see why i used it) Patients A Cold Beer of your choice (or something stronger if need be) A word of caution: You will be doing some major modifications to your headlight housing, and you wont be able to return them back to stock. Lots of people buy aftermarket headlights before they start this process, but that can also lead to problems (which you will see later). I happened to already have a set of aftermarket clear headlights and I also had my stock headlights. I ran into some issues and the process took me longer than I thought. Luckily I do not drive my truck a whole lot, and I have my stock headlights. So I was able to put the stockers back in. If everything goes well this process should only take you a few hours. I purchased the universal Bi-Xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III (H1) kit from the Retrofit Source http://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-retrofit-kits/universal-kits/bi-xenon-morimoto-mini-stage-3-kit-h1.html#.VVi7YPlViko This kit comes with basically everything you need to install. I say almost everything because it may take some custom work in order to get it to work properly for you application. I will get to that later. There website also has basic step by steps on how to install everything. I searched the interwebs for hours trying to find write-ups on how to do a retrofit in an 03-06 Silverado, but most of the walk thoughts are for the NNBS trucks which are a million times easier. I found this write up on HID planet and used it as an example, but I had to deviate from what this person did because my headlights were little different.This person did a Quad retrofit and I just did the low beams. I think all 4 is overkill. http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?39070-About-to-retrofit-a-2003-Silverado First thing first, you have to take apart your headlights. If you do not know how to do this I know there are plenty ow write ups on this site and on the internet. But it is super simple. First you have to take the bulbs out, and turn your oven on to the lowest setting, hopefully that is around 170 degrees. Place your lights (one at a time) in the oven for about 10 min. I would not go over that. Then pull them out and you can begin the process of pulling them apart. I did this years ago and i used a butter knife to separate the headlights. This time I used a small flat head screw driver to stick under the clips the separate them, and i used a larger flat head to separate the lens from the housing. Be very careful not to break the clips or it will be a pain to get it back together again. Before: After: Note: I have a cheap set of ebay clear headlights and they pull apart really easy. I have been told that stock headlights are even harder to take apart. Also I would recommend wearing disposable gloves when working on this process. You do not want to get finger prints on the reflectors, or the projector housing. Next you have to unscrew the 3 screws holding the plate on the back, and remove the rubber chunk from the back. Then you want to remove the little part in the housing that helps project the light from the low beam. It is super easy. In the picture above you can see that all you have to do is reach in there with some needle nose pliers and squeeze the 2 parts together and it can be removed easily. I then test fit the projector to see if it fits, as you can see it slides right into the existing hole for the low beams But as you can see there is not enough room to get the lock nut to work properly, so I had to do a little Dremeling. I Dremeled it out enough to get the lock nut to work.I also drilled a hole for the wires that operate the bi-xenon projectors. Here is where I ran into problems, and had to search all over for a walk trough With the projectors easily installed (or so I thought) I decided to check to see if the lense went back on to the housing. Well of course it does not. The Projectors are way to deep to fit in the stock housing without doing some major modifications. I ended up having to dremel out even more, and make a larger hole. I made the largest hole possible so the projectors would sit back further. As you can see below there is a major difference between the cheap ebay housing and the stock housing. The stock housing has more plastic, and an outer ring that would make the install much easier. Ebay: Stock Housing: If you check out the other install link i shared you will see how that guy cut a larger hole in the back of his housing in order to get the projector to fit in deeper. But since his aftermarket lights were exactly the same in the back as the stock he was able to do this, but I could not. He also went to a hardware store and was able to find a pipe fitting that he used as a bracket for the projector. See below Since my headlights are different I was not able to make a custom bracket that would work. So I drilled out the hold as big as I could to fit the projector as far in as I could, and still be able to attach them. I attached the projector shroud to the projector, and then I slid the projector into the hole, and used the rubber grommet that came with the kit to lick everything into place. Make sure that the projecttors are straight in the housing and tighten with the 27mm socket. you may be able to just tighten it with pliers but the socket seems to work better. Once you test it out you may have to turn the projector a little bit to make sure everything is straight. It should look like this I then put the lens back on to see if it fits. It did, but just barely. I ended up having to squeeze the lens very hard to get it back together. And this is why it is very important to not break the clips that attack the lens to the rest of the housing. I then put the rest of the headlight together in order to test it I then hooked up the HID kit to make sure it worked, and as you can see it did. In order for the headlights to fit properly i had to dremel out the support bracket at bit. Then installed it back to to make sure it fit
  5. So as much as I love driving my BMW I really missed having a full size truck. With a growing family, and a restaurant with a ton of catering business I decided it was time to get something bigger. So I decided I wanted to buy a Suburban or a Yukon XL and I either wanted a Denali or a 2500, then I came across this and had to buy it. It's a 2006 Suburban LTZ, if you have never heard of one you are not alone. The LTZ is a special 2006 only Suburban with AWD and the LQ4 (335hp/375trq), basically a Chevy Denali. It also has some of the same trimmings as the Z71, and the same chrome 20's as the SSS. This one happens to be missing the wheels and the side steps but oh well. I will probably try to find new steps. It does have some pretty nice carbon fiber trim. I'm very excited to be back into a full size Chevy. It has 137k so I will have to see what kind of maintenance I need to do. I should probably go ahead and change out the transfer case fluid. Basically it feels a lot like being back in an SS but with a little extra cargo area
  6. diggerdan11

    Nuts or wishful thinking?

    As nice as that truck is that price is ridiculous. Hell a few years ago Chase sold his twin turbo 10 second monster for like $40k. Probably what happened is this guys wife is making him sell it and he does not want to. "Honey I've listed it but for some darn reason no one wants to buy it" lol
  7. diggerdan11

    Back in a Chevy (Not an SS but very close)

    I don't think it was an option from the factory but I have seen truckd for sale with the carbon trim and I think it was added at the dealership to make the truck more custom
  8. diggerdan11

    Back in a Chevy (Not an SS but very close)

    So I did a search on cars.com with no radius restriction and there are 8 LTZs for sale and they all have the carbon fiber. So I'm assuming that all the LTZs came that way
  9. diggerdan11

    Back in a Chevy (Not an SS but very close)

    Yeah it's pretty cool and I had no idea they existed. I saw LTZ and 6.0 and just thought the dealership made a typo and originally I dismissed it. Glad I looked it up
  10. diggerdan11

    New guy from Little Rock

  11. diggerdan11

    Back in a Chevy (Not an SS but very close)

    Thanks. Yeah the 77 is a lot of fun, and it brings back a lot of memories driving her. Its in pretty good shape and it only has 31k original miles. But since it has been driven so rarely and it sat for years, literally everything leaks. The Freon on the AC lines have completely leaked out, every gasket on the engine, transmission, transfer cases, etc... are leaking. So it will take a little while to replace everything that needs it. The interior is also faded and craked, but the truck has very little rust. Its mostly surface rust and no major rust on frame or the body, other than the typical rust that nearly every square body gets at the wheel wells on the bottom rear quarter panel. Yeah as much fun as I thought the 69 project would be a lot of fun I realized it was going to take a lot more time and money than I thought. We spent quite a bit already on all the replacement panels, body and paint work, and I know there is no way we could sell it for everything we put into it. But we knew going into that that it might cost us $25k plus to completely finish her, yet it would only be worth like $15k. So I have no idea what I would let it go for. I would have to discuss with my dad and see what he thinks. The carbon fiber trim looks great. I remember years ago on the forum everyone wanted the carbon fiber trim, but it was already impossible to come by even back in 07 and 08. Back in 2012 when I still had my SS I wanted to do all the carbon fiber trim but could not find anything but the center console (which is still available from GM). So I went with some of that aftermarket stuff that you stick on, but I was not a huge fan of it. I think Im definitely going to have to get the center console trim and finish everything off.
  12. diggerdan11

    Back in a Chevy (Not an SS but very close)

    Thanks man! As far as the 20's go I am a little torn. As much as I think it would look good to have the SSS wheels back on, the tires on their right now are brand new highly rated Highway tires, so its hard to justify getting new tires and wheels right now. Especially since my wife needs new wheels on here Denali bad since they are peeling and look like crap. My 69 project has been put on hold infidelity. I just dont have the time to finish her. It has been completely re-painted and is ready to be put back together, but I need new wiring, fuel lines, brake lines, then all the exterior trim, lights, bumblers, etc... as well as all the interior components. Maybe one day I will get to it. My dad and I have actually been talking about the possibility of selling it. Thats if we can find someone who wants to buy a half finished project. I also took possession of my Grandpas old 77 Chevy so I also have that to work on. Yeah the carbon fiber was available from GM dealerships. The dash and the window switches are hard to come by but can be found on ebay occasionally. The center console carbon fiber (which I dont have) is still available from GM dealers. I might have to get the center console section so I can finish it all off. According to the Carfax, the Suburban spent its first couple years owned by a Chevy dealership, so it was probably used as a loaner vehicle. And I know from experience that they like to loan people fully loaded vehicles in order to try to entice people to buy new ones. So the delaership probably threw on the Carbon fiber to get people to get excited about a new one.
  13. diggerdan11

    loudest / best muffler setup

    Get some glass packs. That's what I had and they were loud as hell.
  14. diggerdan11

    New Headlights?

    What He Said
  15. diggerdan11


    Steve the GM Gauge Guy works on gauges and will swap LEDs but he normally works on 99-06 clusters which have the lights soldered in. He is asking about a 97 and those are just replaceable bulbs and they are super easy to pull out and replace, and you dont even have to take part the cluster. As far as LEDs go. Superbrightleds.com is a pretty good place. They have lots of options
  16. diggerdan11

    What you get on black friday?

    Yeah I come by from time to time
  17. diggerdan11

    What you get on black friday?

    No car parts for me I picked up a new Xbox One S so I can finally jump into the 4k world
  18. diggerdan11

    GM Gauge Guy

    Last time I checked he still is. Go ahead and email or text him http://www.gmgaugeguy.com/
  19. diggerdan11

    Come and get a free one on me

    I'll take a free one. Butch is not on here because he went to the dark side and bought a Furd Mustang. (Shakes Head), LOL
  20. diggerdan11

    Let me see those Dash set ups!!

    I had a full LED swap in my SS when I owned it. I had the LEDs done in my cluster on my HD but never completed everything before I sold it. SS HD
  21. diggerdan11

    Tailpipe removal with turndowns at axle

    Turn downs won't effect performance at all
  22. diggerdan11

    Need help installing aftermarket stereo

    Do you have Onstar? You will need a wiring interface (different one depending on if you have Onstar or not), also an antenna adapter, and the mounting kit. If you also have steering wheel controls and would like to keep those then you will need the adapter. Crutchfield is a good source for finding out what you need. Also check out http://www.pac-audio.com/ All those parts are available on Amazon
  23. diggerdan11

    New member

  24. diggerdan11

    New member Eastern Washington

    Welcome to the site! There is a ton of great info on this site, even though its not as active as it once was