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1BAD2K

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Posts posted by 1BAD2K

  1. I have easily the best news since rudy made this possible. Baer finally makes a 2 piece rotor to fit this setup. There is bad news...they only have a set for the front. They don't make a 14" 2-piece rotor for the rear (not yet). I ordered these things on a whim after checking out the engineering specs. I honestly had no guarantee, but after i got them on, they cleared perfectly. Some things to note:

    The pad tension clips will rub if not worked a little. Dont fret if they sit on the rotor though. You need to set the rotor on the hub, grab 2 lug nuts and the 2 washers off the caliper bolts and tighten them slowly back and forth until the rotor seats (don't forget to put the washers back)....or just wire brush any rust off. Then once you torque the wheels on they will seat 100% and the clips will just have enough clearance. 100 ft lbs of torque on the wheels!!!! No more. These are aluminum hats.

    They are significantly lighter. I dont have a scale but id say close to half the weight. If you have ever put 2 piece rotors on anything you know the difference they make in both cooling and weight loss at the hubs.

    They can be ordered in slotted, drilled, or both.

    They are pricey. $895 a pair. Yup. Thats nothing, my 370z's were about 1200 a pair and only 14". This is a bargain. I unfortunately havent gotten to test drive them due to transmission issues but im sure it will be noticeable.

    Here are the part numbers:

    Rotor hats - 6140084 (need 2)

    Friction disc - 6910309 (note these are directional, also i ordered slotted only)

    Friction disc - 6920309 (note these are directional, also i ordered slotted only)

    Hat bolts - 6060061 (need 24)

    Hat lock nuts - 6160010 (need 24)

    They will come pre-assembled if you order everything. I dont think there is a part number for the entire disc assembly. If you tell them the part numbers for the original 2 front discs in this post then they should be able to get you the 2 piece version. I recommend talking to mark fowler. You have to specify z06 monoblocks on a silverado, but he should understand. His contact is :

    602-233-1411 ext:7012

    [email protected]

    Enjoy!

     

    Very nice! I prefer a slotted only disc. You're right, this whole deal is a huge bargain even with the two piece rotors.
  2. Found this on my local (DFW TX) craigslist. Only 84K miles and appears to be in very good shape. Figured I'd link it here in case anyone is looking.

     

    Again this isn't my ad, just came across it on CL.

     

    https://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/cto/d/2006-chevrolet-ss-silverado/6535398593.html

     

    Another one. Not as good of a deal but still only 90K miles.

     

    https://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/cto/d/collectors-2006-intimidator/6516480231.html

  3. I used to cover mine in all purpose cleaner and let that dwell for a few minutes, but make sure it doesn't dry on there or it might discolor plastics. Then I would pressure wash everything including underside of the hood, I just wouldn't blast directly into the alternator. Then I'd spray hyper dressing on everything and close the hood. Come back in an hour, or even take a drive to let it dry and it looks perfect. Not greasy/shiny just rich black plastics and all clean. Gotta make sure the motor is completely cool before you do it. I used to do it probably once every few months. Never had an issue.

  4. Haven't tried the "solder wick heat sink" style like those, but I have tried fanless LED headlights in a different application. The heat sink was huge on those so I had to cut the headlight bracket and open up an existing hole in the core support on a '97 Suburban. I also used them in an '06 Magnum which only required very slight grinding on an existing hole in the core support.

     

    Two big gotchas with LED headlights of any heat sink style would be (1) most are not bright enough for your low beams (seriously exaggerated claims on light output), and (2) wrong light pattern/poor cutoff, much like drop-in HID kits into a reflector housing they really do not produce the right kind of light as compared to the original halogen capsule. Morimoto has some that they claim more accurately reproduce the light pattern and while I find it hard to believe, if I would believe anybody, it would be them. The other no-name stuff can make all the claims they want, doesn't make it true.

     

    I'm seriously tempted to try the Morimotos for my SS because the HID's in my OEM housings just aren't cutting it. I can tell from the dimensions on the site there will be some chopping involved and it may just not be physically possible. Their design does rely on fans, though the way they describe them you'd hope they might be a little more reliable than the usual junk out there.

     

    Richard

    Nailed it. Drop in LED kit is probably actually less output than a good set of halogen bulbs in the factory reflector type housing. The iLens bi-LED projectors are pretty good units as well as the even better morimoto m-led but they are a projector LED complete unit that you have to retrofit into your housings, and that includes opening them up and resealing them. Not a small task, but well worth it!
  5. It's pretty discouraging. I've been to several sites with how to type posts and they are all damaged by photobuckets money grabbing policy. At the same time "ya get what ya pay for" and I never gave PB a dime.

    Very true, but you did go through ads which is where a lot of "free" online stuffs male their money. I wouldn't be surprised is PB has a new owner.

  6. We can hope, I guess. I'm thinking that the original owner of the pics would have to resize and re-upload them to a new host site and then edit their original posts, where they first added the pics, to replace the missing photos.

     

    Photobucket going for the bucks and holding all their members photos for ransom has destroyed many threads with lost photos.

    Yes it has! I'm noticing it all over the web and it's pretty lame!
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