sirk

yes its the one where you cut out the honeycomb stock one. i have no idea what brand it is tho. when i bought the truck i asked them to put one on and the dealership found and installed it. i think i might take it and the bowtie off and get them powdercoated instead of painted. rock chips are a bitch on it already.

not sure whats next. maybe SS bumper. maybe cam/rods/springs. maybe 122 upgrade. maybe hold off on all those and save up for a 408 and 122 upgrade. id also like to lower it few inches. who knows whats next. i guess whatever i feel like when i got the money. haha.

well i finally decided to put some money into the looks instead of under the drivetrain. let me know what you think. they are AR razor 6 with 275/55 20 falcon rubber. http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll269/sirk06/truck5.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll269/sirk06/truck4.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll269/sirk06/truck3.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll269/sirk06/truck2.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll269/sirk06/truck1.jpg

06sssracinstripes Posted Today, 04:40 PM so your sayin that what the truck is doin now is nothing compared to what its gunna do when i get the converter in? what converter should i use i know thats kind of a loaded question but i mean with my mods and nitrous in the future what would yall use? i would look at your graph and see where you start to make a good amount of torque and start there. the idea of the stall is to keep the rpm's higher than normal. if its a big cam then go with at least a 3000 and probably more. the higher you go the less your gonna like it for everday applications. you also have to consider the weight of the vehicle. somewhere between a 3200 - 3400 would probably be good for a high revving engine. you will also want to do heads to get the best air flow possible and efficiency. a big cam will get alot of help with better heads. but what do i know. talk to someone who does this all the time. or wait for the gurus to chime in.

i got a 3000 vig triple disk 10.5 inch and lost about 2mpg around town. it does not feel stock but is very driveable. it very docile until about 60% throttle then pulls like a raped ape. the lockup is amazing. shakes the truck when it locks.

do you have pics of them on your truck?

even from a dig i would be very worried. the eclipse/talon/laser ( DSM cars ) were available in a few different levels. the higher up being the gst/gsx or tsi ( for eagle ). the gst was turbo fwd and once you modded it left alot to be desired in the traction department. the gsx and tsi awd were all wheel drive and had the 4g63 iron block in it ( same as all the evos up till now). that engine was bullet proof and could be made very fast for relatively cheap. if its the awd version and took some time to spool up id say he had a aftermarket turbo (16g or bigger) cause the stock turbo had basically zero lag. watch out for these. i used to have one and would surprise f bodies and mustangs all the time.

there was a QC srt10 in sport truck or some other mag a few months ago. silver with black powdercoated stock rims and a paxton 2200 and spray. article said it runs tens with near a 1000 hp. dont know if that was crank or wheels( cant remember) . i think that would have to be the fastest QC around. anywhere.

the headlights out because the airfilter is directly behind it. thats a sweet video.

http://s192.photobucket.com/albums/z47/fir...irksDynoRun.flv heres mine

all you radix guys what do you set your tps for to engage pe mode. its makes so much low end torque im just wondering. its at 60% but should i change it?

i shouldnt be to slow off the line with a vig 3000, 0 TM, and 4hi. plus all that good radix torque and being thrown right into it. if anything his turbo has to spool up and i thought a boosted launch would kill him. my main worry is him catching me.

tune is solid. no kr and perfect 11.8 afr the whole way through. may do some tweeking but nothing major.

me and a buddy are both going to the track for the first time this spring. hes got a wrx that runs mid 13s. im wondering what i should be running ( approximately ) with my current mods and good launch. 2006 4x4 ecsb lq9 radix @ 7.5 psi flt fully built trans vigillante triple disk 10.5inch 3000 stall 430hp and 470torque to rear wheels do you think i have enough to come close with a good 4x4 stalled launch? what do you think ill run? anyone with similar hp numbers please tell what your running and if its 2wd or 4x4/awd. thanks alot. im just deciding if i should put some money on this or if its not worth it.

looks like it will be very easy to modify. haha.

i ordered a 3000. i hear they normally stall anywhere from -400 to right on so that should be good for me. i dont really tow at all so i think ill enjoy some neck breaking 4x4 launch's.

i figured , who knows what ill do down the line so i might as well get the best i can. hope it works fine.

nevermind. in the time since i originally posted this i decided and ordered a 10.5 inch multi disk vig.

no its for a 70e. id like to sell that and the servos together. i swear i ordered the shift kit 1 day before the trans went and the servos came in the same day it blew.haha. talk about irony kicking me in the ass.

none of the torque management was removed. i actually just recieved my new servos in the mail and a zippy shift kit is in the mail too. alot of good those do for me now. haha. if you want some billet servos and shift kit i will have them for sale in a little bit here. i knew the tranny would go eventually no matter what i did so why delay the inevitable. i thought i would at least get until spring out of it. oh well.

well not one week after my new kick ass tune i was driving and 4th started slipping a bit. then alot. then all the other gears started to slip. i said screw it and have a flt level 5 4l70e on order already. cant wait. truck knew i had extra money. shit.

Year of truck: Make: 2006 Model: 4x4 vortec max Engine: 6.0 lq9 with radix magnacharger and 3.0 pulley Transmission: FLT level 5 4l70e Gearing: 4.10 Air intake: Airaid cai Cat back exhaust: Magnaflow PCM tuning: dyno tune by AFI performance and custom tuning Torque converter: vigilante triple disk 3000 Transmission mods: the works Other mechanical modifcations: Snow Performance stage 2 going in soon with cam or nitrous Body mods: billet horizontal replacement grill and billet bowtie. debadged. US SPEEDO ss guages and needles. colbalt 2 boost and fuel pressure guages by autometer.

i had to use a impact to get mine off. dont use one to put it back on though. then if you have problems with the pulley use a pulley puller and heat it up if you have to. sometime the pulley just comes off with a few hits from a rubber mallet but if its been on there a while with some locktight you'll need a puller.

i have one. pm me

well heres my chart taken on a dyno jet in 70degree weather. the air fuel sat at about 11.8 the whole time. this is with the 3.0 pulley and dyno tune completed. fireman added the video. thanks man