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kelleyperformance

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Everything posted by kelleyperformance

  1. lmao bro you and your expressions ... you know what i heard... alex told me this is all one big sham and that you dropped the hood. trying to pull a fast one over on that poor innocent honest shipping company... people these days man damn!! and an RB to make it worse!! shit its not like he cant afford to fix it right??? come on jason that poor driver is gunna get fired now!! are you and your RB family gunna feed that poor man now???
  2. lol how did you manage to **** up tits???? btw this edit thing SUCKS i swear to **** that this ****ing edit thing really ****ing pisses my s**t the **** off man, this stupid s**t has got to ****ing go its like i cant be my ****ing self anymore man ****!
  3. you sound strangely like a familiar voice i hear all the time... huh
  4. you sure you didnt make a few wrong turns and end up in miami???
  5. yeah he is right. on a stock truck, its not going to be noticable... and from what i just read- your looking to get a Radix? the magnacharger replaces your intake manifold with its own, as the blower sits directly on top of it. i would NOT waste your money on a new intake manifold when your looking to throw it out in one of your next mods lol. IMO it just doesnt make sense... also, so you dont get scared off from a cam- i cant imagine a cam swap youd need internal engine parts for. a cam swap will cost you about $2000 or so depending on who installs it. IMO if your more than a year away from the blower, get a decent streetable camshaft thats boost friendly, so you can use it with your blower. add that TBSS intake manifold, you have the LT headers already so your good there, air intake is fine... so that way, you can get the decent gain from the cam + TBSS intake swap now, and when time comes you can easily sell that TBSS intake and throw the blower on there, leaving your cam in which will benefit you both now and then when your blown
  6. its not the ignition... its the driver door switch 100%. very common issue on these and not too hard to fix. you need a new door module, the switch is internal with the door latch. you remove the door panel, un bolt the 3 torx bolts around the latch, remove lock rod inside door, unplug module, and pull it out through the inside of the door. put new one in, repeat steps, problem fixed
  7. yeah your doing that fairly aggressive cam and the pricey intake manifold... why waste all the extra air IN just to not be able to get it out? piping diameter is NOT what creates ideal airflow... the 'venturi' effect from the "drawing" of the air from out of the cylinder is what causes the higher gains from LT headers over ANY size or type of short/stock length headers. like i said before, people who run way too large of exhaust piping through straight thru mufflers as well... they loose noticeable low end torque and gain NO top end power... the OBX are quite popular and work just fine, as long as you run long tubes. IMO if your swearing off the LTs in general, then dont waste your money or time on shorties... you wont see any gains.
  8. oh i know, but good fun or not someone usually gets carried away
  9. yeah your buddy confused the car LS2 manifold with this one... YES you will see some gains if your engine is running some mods, such as a decent cam, etc. if you dont really have any mods, it isnt going to help you much. but it will in throttle response just solely from the 90mm TB, so youll be happy with it im sure. and in the future if you ever do a cam or heads you will be happy you did that manifold. its not "day and night" but every little bit counts, especially for the $ its a good mod. hes right about the PCM and TAC, but thats what the X-Link is for all youll need is the throttle and a 2.0 or higher X-Link and itll all work perfect as for the injectors- the ones that come in the TBSS intake manifold would be LS2 injectors, which are 34 lb/hr and are most likely fine for your setup if your not boosted... however you will need pigtails to adapt the wiring over to EV6 which is what the LS2 injectors use. the LS3 injectors are not going to work as they are shorter... and they arent much larger anyways.
  10. hey so does this mean i dont get my combat shooting lessons...??? fine be that way... i guess your stuff is ready "BUT" i might not get to ship it till say late August and im just throwing this out there but... an XDs miiiiiight speed up and discount this whole deal here....
  11. i know taylor was a little upset at me but i might as well tell you before i forget and you all have to keep buying them elsewhere ... i have 3 or so in stock, 3.0's. i totally forgot we ordered some to keep in stock, for reasons exactly as this lol they are $230 shipped John
  12. honestly after reading this, i would be happy if i were you that this thread HAS been so "clean" lol... when i read the first page a few days ago i was expecting a bomb... but im impressed to be honest
  13. so why do i see you trying to buy rep wheels like a week ago
  14. do you have any pics of more angles, specifically to the sides of the middle piece where the sides of the gate meet up with the bed rails? reason i ask, is i have been throwing the idea of the ISS wing with a bed cover and im not 100% it will seal properly with it... but since you have pics of JUST the middle section mounted, it would give me a good idea if you dont mind if it looks good, hell i may just go for it
  15. simple - the TBSS intake can be had used for about 1/4 or less of what a FAST costs.. not to mention used FAST manifolds are fairly uncommon to find, and are still expensive. the FAST manifolds that came out more recently, like the FAST LSXRT (taller truck version) is a great intake. it will perform better than the TBSS intake in the right setup. those are the key words though... its a common misconception that you can bolt on a fancy intake manifold on a stock or mild/bolt on setup and make tons of power. this is NOT the case! for the intake manifold to pay off, youd need a good pair of heads/cam and/or some boost (turbo or centrifugal blower). the intake manifold can only move more air through the engine if the engine can support / produce that air volume. also you need to keep in mind that for either of these intake manifolds you will also need a new 4 bolt LS2/3/7 style throttle body and a Dr. X X-link harness for that throttle body. this will cost you another $225 for xlink and $200-500 for the throttle depending on which one you get... you also have the Holley Hi-Ram intake manifold, that is a great manifold too. if your NA with a big cam, IMO id run the LSXRT FAST intake. but if your boosted w/ heads/cam making serious power, id run the Holley intake. these two run about the same price roughly. but if your just looking for a full bolt on truck that makes good power but nothing "big" or crazy, your good with the TBSS intake. as for the dyno/power level question- in the past, typically we see about 10-15 WHP gains on a 500 WHP motor switching from the cathedral truck intake w/ 78mm opening to the TBSS intake paired with a 90mm TB. and typically switching from the cathedral truck w/ 78mm opening to a FAST LSXRT yields about 15-18 WHP w/ 90mm TB. now keep in mind, if your one of the few going for a big money big power build, like high boost levels or a big cube motor, theres a 102 MM throttle that will gain you a few more HP in those extreme cases. anything less than that (say under 600 WHP roughly without specifics) then the 90mm will do you perfect. SO to break it down for you: FAST is good if: -you have the $1k to drop on it -you have an aggressive/big cam paired with a good set of heads Hi-Ram is good if: -you have the $1k to drop -you have boost w/ heads/cam and are making significant power levels -your running a large cubic inch motor TBSS intake if: -your not looking to spend a fortune -your not looking to make huge HP levels, just a strong DD hope that answered some of your questions John
  16. i have a bad feeling that this thread is going to get out of hand.... as usual
  17. looks good man, now you just need a good way to get the power down btw danny is right on that oil... its not 5W30, its STRAIGHT 30 weight, very different. that stuff and other "break in" oils were mostly designed for flat tappet motors, ie NOT the LS engines lol and for AWD dynos- you guys need to look for someone with Dynapack dyno... it bolts onto the hub, no rollers and no strapping the truck down to anything- this ALSO means ANY wheelbase AWD vehicle will work on them! we are saving up for a new Dynapack setup when we move shops im sure they have a search on their website like Dynojet, to show all the Dynapack shops. John
  18. fast4popper made a one-off hood a few years ago, had a window molded into it. was a pretty clean job IMO, i always liked it
  19. gonna be a badass little truck man John
  20. looks nice, always liked those Z71 tahoes. so what is this, you just pop back on here whenever you start a new personal project ? otherwise we dont see you man whats up with that John
  21. yeah no i dont think he does... i have done two or so of BB tunes and they were both unlocked John
  22. if they are not torqued properly, they will not work and will need to be replaced. it is CRITICAL that they are torqued properly! John
  23. with that cam, you might need to adjust the knock sensor sensitivity a little bit to elliminate any false knock. im sure if you are still running stock parameters on the knock sensors, part of your KR is false knock from the more aggressive cam
  24. what? your an RB from what i understand. come on over, ill sell you a blower
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