kelleyperformance

dont tell me... your good now?

dont tell me i missed this shit... AGAIN?!?!

looks good always my favorite hood on the non-HD front ends too you know, if there are SO many RBs around here... and i build your trucks... shouldnt i be an even RBer than the RBs???

congratulations and welcome to the site

welcome to the site

what kind of wing is that?

yeah id say you will be fine with 275/40R20s. i am running a 4/5 drop on my JGP truck on 22x10" SSS replicas, on 285/35R22 and it tucks them just fine. cant recall offset but visually its high enough to fit inside the rear bed/fender lip and pretty damn well into the front, although i do run about 1.7-2 deg of neg camber in front on this truck

how do i get in on this? i would like one

yeah your not going to want to run that without fuel system upgrades, mainly injectors... also on a bone stock truck, i would NOT run any more than a 10 lb pulley. your already asking for tranny issues at that... id at least put a transgo shift kit, vette servo, and a larger trans cooler in it at minimum before you boost the truck. also the tune and person setting it all up is the critically important thing! if THAT is all wrong, no matter what you do- your in trouble.

bushings arent really needed... they are included to help stiffen the support for the bars as much as possible, but we have more people complain about minor noises they can transmit. and i am yet to hear anyone say theres a noticeable difference without them. there are some poly bushings on the market for our trucks and leafs, this is my personal choice, with or without bars GL with sale. dunno how much good these will do any AWD guys. especially the ones in the arctic...

$15...? how many did you buy???

Hey Alex, if you have any more questions on the N2O kit, shoot me a text. Easier than email for me Hey Aaron, you still got your truck?

Andrew where'd u take those last two?

thats a purdy alternator

thanks for the kind words yes the shop would stay in the same city, basically. i am considering moving north maybe 5 miles, thats all. about my number... it WAS in my sig, along with my name... then again there is a certain mod that just LOVES me so i thiiiiink i know what happened i keep asking where to send my money for a vendorship!! i have taken all the steps i can so far, i thought we were working on that but i guess not.

cool thanks, let me know!

that truck is long gone lol. thread is 3 years old

i have seen two different volant intake hoses... at least get a picture of said kit your looking at. some earlier volant kits used the same tube from clutch fan kits, but later on they started using larger tubes that would not fit. but like JC03SS said, just buy another kit that you know for sure fits, so theres no he said she said and guessing involved. returns arent always easy and arent fun lol

yes thats why its saying that. 03 did not have E-fans, and usually the air intake tube is shaped differently on the clutch fan trucks, as there is less room. yes the air box will fit, but the air intake tube most likely will not. oh and what jason said ^^^ TB spacers are a gimmick, trust me. make no difference in power, response, any of that shit they claim. adds a really annoying whistle that sounds like a big vacuum leak too

i think you misunderstood that quote from Holly, CanadianVR. they are saying it 'shines' in higher RPM motors, very high ones such as road race specific built applications. they arent exactly saying "our manifold makes exactly the same power as stock and is kind of useless under 7k+ RPM ". truth is, the FAST is a decent chunk of change more, and doesnt have anything to show for it on a dyno. i DO prefer the composite material over the metal, yes. does the FAST LSXRT work just as well? yes it does. IMO, the hi-ram is a cheaper, better looking alternative that makes good power. to say youd want to compare those manifolds BUT L92 kind of defeats the test... any of those manifolds with L92 ports on an L92 head- stock or not- WILL outflow any of those high end setups on a cathedral port head (ie. Hi-Ram on 243 heads will flow LESS than an L92 Truck Manifold with L92/LS3 heads, period). another thing to note- the TBSS intake is simply a cathedral port L76/L92 NNBS truck manifold. they both have roughly the same size runners, and the same throttle openings. BUT like i said, the rectangular port heads flow so much more that any L92 style manifold will be the leader in a comparison. also, the FAST and Hi-Ram are available in L92 port. so if you were to compare a stock L92 truck manifold to an L92 port Holly or FAST, it would loose. thats never been a question. the question is, do you really have the money to spend over $1k on a new manifold and another $500 on a throttle to gain 10-15 WHP...? usually that answer is NO, or people use that money to go with boost and make much more power than that with a little more money. thats why you see so many TBSS and truck L92 manifold swaps. in my professional opinion, if your going to spend the money for a $1k intake manifold, and do not have any nice heads to run with your large cam... you have skipped a step. you can take that $1k and gain a lot more power and torque across the RPM band with a set of even STOCK L92 heads and a truck L92 manifold, with a 90mm TB. you can have all that, or just a pretty manifold that has big flow capabilities BUT flowing into a head that does NOT share those flow capabilities. if you have the money to do both, more power to you. but in most cases, this is not the case. SO if you havent made your move yet, id look into a set of L92/LS3 cylinder heads and find a NNBS L92 port truck intake. thats your best bet man oh and as for the trans shift points- CanadianVR, with your setup... your not making any noticeable power increase from say 6200-6300 when i would recommend you shift, until well after 6500 when you say your actually shifting. im guessing you have log files showing this, as simply commanding a shift at say 6600 RPM wont usually yield that RPM like that. the PCM works a little different than most would think when it comes to shift points. people have a common misconception that the higher i can get my vehicle to shift, the "faster" its going to go or the "harder" it will pull, etc. this is almost never true. your engine, and especially your specific setup has a peak torque range, and a peak power range. exceeding this only puts unnecessary stress on many components, especially the trans in this case.

is that counting the few people i saw who said theyd do flat bill on here or no? thread is kinda a mess to count whos in for what lol, i dunno how far you got on the last few posts i saw saying flat. either way id take like 4-5, more if we absolutely HAD to to make it happen. i pretty much ruined my last SS hat from Shawn its all greasy and motor oily lol btw- any possibilty we can do a "VHO" hat? like the same hat just switch the "SS" on front for "VHO" in same font, and keep the "Silverado" on back the same. if you need a minimum or we can do 1-2 for a higher price, let me know pls John

yeah and hopefully... i actually finish it before then. and hopefully i wont have to sell my house to finish it either... me too! thanks text me your shipping address, ill send it out monday

on another note- i havent seen you around in forever!! hope your doing well

not with that cam he isnt spinning anything near that not to mention a shift point a few hundred less RPM than that would kill that poor stock 65e i am guessing Hi-Ram bc it makes nice torque with a cam like that, plus lets not beat around the bush- it looks cool heres a members truck we just finished: granted its boosted but... still made a good power increase over stock truck manifold

thank you, i try and answer as many questions as i can to be helpful the forums are such a great place to learn and share ideas