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kelleyperformance

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kelleyperformance last won the day on May 27 2014

kelleyperformance had the most liked content!

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    kelleyperf
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    http://www.kelleyperformance.com
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Previous Fields

  • Owns
    SS
  • Silverado SS/VHO/TrailBlazerSS Color
    Black
  • SS/VHO/TrailBlazerSS Year
    2006
  • Drivetrain Config
    2WD
  • Delivering Dealership
    Mine! :)
  • Modifications
    not gunna fit in this little line

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hallandle Beach, FL
  • Interests
    Anything and everything fast

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  1. basically I am putting a truck back to stock here at the shop. we need these items- - 4L65E 4WD/AWD (NO need for T-Case) - NBS Tailgate (Prefer Black) - SSS Rear Tailgate Cap (Prefer Black) - SSS Tailgate Cladding Strip (Prefer Black) - SSS Rear Metal Bumper (If you want to sell w/ SSS bumper cover that is fine- prefer black) - TBSS / NNBS Cathedral Port Truck Intake (Prefer fuel rails only; do not need injectors or throttle but would consider for right price) - Stock NBS (Non-Molested) Rear Leaf Hangers (Not shackles- the hangers that are riveted on to the truck and must have rivets cut off) Prefer local on most for obvious reasons, but willing to pay/arrange shipping if your prices are good on the parts. We are located in the Fort Lauderdale/Miami, Florida area (Broward, Dade, or Palm Beach County we will pick up from) Will consider any and all offers- easier to email me than to PM; [email protected] Thanks, John
  2. mike (zippy) is top shit, if you are nearby you should take this. having HPT just for your own truck, if you are modding it at all, is REALLY helpful. it will save you money in the end too. i have been tuning GM vehicles since 2005, Ford, Subaru, Mitsubishi (EVO) since about 2009. i have read all the books and videos available back towards when i started. mike is right, it really is hard at home on free time to just sit and pay 100% attention, for one. also you cant ask the TV a question (unless your really f'd up, then it might even answer you ). my point is- almost a decade of running a speed shop and tuning, every now and then i STILL will talk with mike about strange tuning issues and such. im sure i would learn things from his class. IMO well worth the money if your nearyby
  3. yeah they are not the same lug pattern and are very high offset. but im not usually impressed much but that's a clean ass TBSS my stupid browser posted before i was done... they are 2 pc. billet wheels, press fit not bolted together. so that narrows it down to a few companies. could be Billet Specialties, that's my guess
  4. yes I did do this, and the transmission is not the issue. we have since done this in a RCSB, and it worked fine. my heavy ass SS that was pushing about 570-580 whp at the time on 3.73 gears was eating up clutches. however, if I would have thrown a ZR1 twin disc with a Katech or LPE 6 bolt flywheel, and swapped my gearing to 4.10 or 4.56, it would've been okay. I used the absolute PERFECT transmission, but it was freeking impossible to find when I did this first, back in like 2006 or 2007. it was the T56 out of an 05-06 Chevy SSR LS2. they were beefed up to hell, even heavier duty than the viper units. a t56 magnum would suffice just fine though. I wouldn't do a tr6060 tho, the earlier ones had lots of issues, and I prefer the T56 for other reasons anyways. so to sum it up here is what you will need- unless you can find an 05-06 SSR T56, you will need a 98-02 F-Body T56. this will bolt up to your motor, with any LS1 clutch. USE either a very heavy single disc, which is miserable to drive... or a nice twin disc. honestly we find the ZR1/LPE twin disc works great, and the pedal is light and forgiving. they hold up to 900 whp that ive personally seen, zero issues (this is in a car! truck is way heavier, so cut a few hundred lb.ft off that). -F Body T56 -HEAVY DUTY single disc/twin disc clutch setup for LS1 F Body -LS1 slave cylinder from an F Body -Clutch pedal and master cylinder (comes together) for a 5 speed GMT800 truck (99-07) -2.5" hole saw -plasma cutter or die grinder (to make that fairly large hole in your floor ) -there is actually a bracket for the clutch pedal under your dash: you simply need to rivet some rivet nuts into the two holes. the pedal assembly will then bolt in. -master cyl twists into the pedal assembly that comes through the firewall, right under your TAC module. (there is an outline of a circle on the firewall where you will need to dril the 2.5" hole for the pedal. punch it perfectly in the center, pilot hole and drill it.) -hook up the slave and master, already bled if you buy them new. -buy a 5 speed trans crossmember, or modify your automatic one -you will need to custom make shifter linkage to your desired location: mine was in the OE console next to cup holders -if you have a 1 pc. driveshaft, it will most likely need to be modified. the 2 pc. will work with the T56 -you will need a PCM tune, the truck will not start. if you have a late 2005 or 2006-2007, you have to bypass the "auto cranking" feature or the truck wont crank. this requires soldering a wire from a leg on the starter relay and running it into a pin in the pcm (don't recall pin location) -for a temporary solution you can leave the "black box" that is on the side of the 4L65, where the shift linkage hooks up. you will need to put it in neutral and keep it plugged in. only issue here is, yes the truck will crank, but it WILL STAY in idle spark tables. also, the fuel level sender for the fuel gauge uses a different algorithm for Park/Neutral and for Drive. your fuel gauge will be bouncing around like crazy. so, is it possible? yes. would I recommend you do it to an SSS? not really. I dumped a nearly unlimited amount of money into the project and it was still a pain in the ass for a DD. now if it was a RCSB, go for it. they are fun as shit. but now that you know whats involved, hopefully it will help educate you on just whats all involved
  5. hey ill sell you a 700 whp one, but itll cost you a tad more than $15k but in all seriousness, I have occasionally picked up SSS trucks at auction if they are clean, and sell them. will take a look through the dealer auctions for you
  6. im guessing you have the 90mm j-tube on that 112 already? how much power are you looking to make? we carry both items in stock. shoot me a text or an email, info is in my signature below. John
  7. ^yeah that's a surprise we got x-links and 87mm and 90mm throttles, shoot me a text or an email John
  8. but then youd have to get rid of your beloved thumper cam
  9. for some reason my browser wont let me edit the post.... BUT- remember that the blower includes the radix 78mm J-Tube for the 3 bolt style throttles! the one in the pictures is our 90mm tube, which can be added but isn't included.
  10. I have a 112 radix unit here for sale. it has about 45k miles on it, and although its unnecessary the snout oil was changed with GM supercharger oil every 10k. this was on my SS for a few years. basically, you get the head unit fully assembled with everything except it will come with Siemens Dekka 60lb injectors. the 42lb that come with it limit you at only 7-8 psi. injectors all work perfectly, no leaks no issues. it has a returnless fuel line block on the fuel rail (for 2004-2007 trucks) but if you have a 2003 we can get you the return style fuel rail block, its no issue. currently the blower has a stock 78mm 3 bolt throttle j-tube, but we can put our modified 90mm 4 bolt flange on it for you for $200-300. we also carry any and all throttle bodies, and anything else youd need if you didn't have. I will include a Walbro 255 lph in-tank pump, that has about 20k miles on it, works fine. I will also include the Bosch intercooler pump, intercooler reservoir that came with the kit, and the 5/8" heater hose. I will also include a custom made harness for the intercooler pump, similar to the one that comes with the kit. it will include a heat exchanger- either the Radix kit unit or a larger unit. all little parts, like the coolant vent pipe on the cyl heads will be included- everything needed to run the kit will be included- many parts brand new. the kit will arrive ready to bolt on. the blower is off and ready to ship in a few days time. my contact info is in my signature- you can email me, or text the number in the signature. I get a lot of calls and sometimes they get lost in the masses lol. asking $3000 + shipping. (shipping usually runs about $100-130). feel free to contact me with any questions -John *the decal on the snout has been removed, did not leave any mark or residue*
  11. ok hey everyone, im sorry I am SO late to this thread. we are moving and things have been crazy. basically here is the bottom line- we WILL produce these roll pans, if there is still a market for them. I don't want to make a mold and everything to sell 3 I have a BSER pan here that we will use as a base, but it might not be exactly the same. I feel it can be improved on a bit. for example, mine did not come with enough material on the edges to sand down to fit my cladding well. I had to add material. as of now here is the plan- we need to see just how many people are wanting to purchase a roll pan. one thing I can promise you is no one will be let down with the quality. we build wide body kits for C6 (soon C7, almost finished!) in fiberglass, and even in full carbon fiber. these pieces are flawless, ive installed many kits personally. they fit like OEM. the roll pan wont come in needing hours of prep. you can check out some of the vettes online, ill try and find some pics. I know some of you have seen some. we might offer painted roll pans as well, it just all depends on the demand here. another thing I wanted to gain perspective on- im sure some people have tried to mold the glass pan onto the plastic cladding panels. sure, it looks great the day you do it... but pick-ups flex, a lot. the bond between glass and plastic isn't great... I have considered producing fiberglass rear cladding corners to fix this issue for those who really want a molded roll pan. we would sell them as one solid piece, but everyones truck will vary slightly and shipping would be difficult to say the least. so maybe alex can get a list going, and we can see if we go forward with this. the pricing will be similar to the BSER. but again, remember- the more buyers, the better the price for you all if you all have any questions, shoot me an email [email protected] John
  12. the actual results from changing your t-stat to a lower temp. are WAY WAY exaggerated by most people... honestly the biggest gains you will see is a gain in fuel consumption lol. ask yourself, do these trucks have overheating issues.... no. could the factory have very easily put a lower temp thermostat in.... yes. and they did, in 2008 with the gen 4 LS motors- its 180 degrees in most of them. why? because this is the optimum temp for combustion, amongst other reasons. trust me, being a professional tuner and having my own dyno- you don't need 160 deg tstat in your trucks, very few cases do lol. if you want one, get a 180. if its up to one mod, get an intake. the OEM exhaust on the SSS isn't bad. the piping is great, and you would see no benefit in flow between a 3" corsa cat-back and a stock SSS cat-back with say a magnaflow muffler (straight through muffler types). another common misconception lol- "I need a dual 3" catless, straight-through muffler exhaust on my 400bhp vehicle, and it will gain me like 20hp" actually, it will LOOSE you low end torque. so get the intake. and if you have the money, then do some 1 3/4" long tube headers with some high flow cats. that yields a nice gain and has a nice sound on the stock SSS cat-back also yes e-fans are always good. free up some rotational mass, and a few HP. but better yet, it really frees up space even for basic maintenance under the hood, and gets rid of that cool dump truck noise when your driving at cold start-up
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