onebadmax

Apparently Mercury Racing got tired of waiting on GM. Mercury has been reluctant to use gen 3 motors in any of the packages. In fact they designed their own 9.0 big block, to replace the 496 and 502 GM motors.

Mercury racing is teasing us. I have a pair of the quad cam 1100s in a skater. These heads are way ahead of anything we currently have. Not to mention the inherent valve train stability. http://www.hotrod.com/events/mercury-racing-teases-4-valve-ls-cylinder-heads-at-sema-2014/?adbid=10152369530527540&adbpl=fb&adbpr=13601527539&sm_id=social_aumoautomobilemaghub_AutomobileMag_20141107_35172507#__federated=1

Your turbo selection and cam will determine what stall speed you need.

Sharp truck. Thought that was a LML at first.

I'll wait and see what you and Danny come up with.

Hell, Brian can't get dicks and balls off his mind ever. Missing Danny I guess. No telling how many times those two pulled his trans, and ended up getting lathered up in trans oil and Vaseline stroking and sucking each other off. I bet brian is the catcher tho. I wonder what Kayla thinks about that.

On no you can't back out now, I need a sweet chubby guy to bust on. I get first dibs. Danny you have to wait your turn.

So theoretically you changed the distance between the rocker arm and center of cam by .07 right? So it looks like you math is pretty close to what you measured. Did you remember to cut the .1 in half since we are working with a radius change?

Learn how to build a trans before you give out advice. Your truck was slow, yet you blew how 60s? You recommend a 80 for a 475hp motor??? I stand by my statement. You don't know how to build a trans, you just throw "kits" and parts at it. And the proof is in your old truck. That trans never stayed together and it wasn't even fast. So you lick my hairy balls bitch

Here we go again. People automatically recommending 80e swaps, when they have no idea how to build a trans. OP, I'd call FLT and talk to some who ACTUALLY knows how to build a 60, rather than a bunch of guys who just throw parts at the trans.

My stockers measured 7.401,

Headers

How good is that turbo kit though..... Answer, not very. I got mine for less

Call ARH, they will cut a deal on them. Don't pay list price!

You can run that 228 with your stall, it won't be as fast as it could be, but it'll will still be stout. That way you can upgrade your converter later to a 9.5" unit. 9.5" converters are more effeicent than 278mm converters. A 278mm converter can't really stall any higher than 3200 cause the fluid can't change directions efficiently, due to angle of vanes limits.

How high are you planning to rev this motor? You don't need rod bolts, esp considering the cam you listed isn't a high revver. Fwiw, I spin my stock bottom end lq9 to 7000 regularly.

The MAF doesn't meter the pcv system. It's down stream of the sensor. All you are doing is venting the crankcase. You can vent to the atmosphere, but that is stinky and messy.

If you buy pacesetters, there will be welding involved. ARH and dynatech are true bolt on systems.

Honestly having a boyfriend doesn't matter. I'd ask her anyways. Just being totally honest, but you don't know what she is thinking, so ask her already.

Headers

On a serious note, it seems like you have a mentality that this girl is gonna be your wife.... Ditch that NOW. I'm telling you women can sense things like that, a lot more than we men can.

As Jason said, they should be fine, BUT... Lol I ran .600 lift pac springs with a .603 lift cam. U gotta remember the lifters will absorb some of the lift, push rods do deflect and so do rocker arms. I think I'd just get a good aftermarket spring and be done with it.

Are you in shape dude?? I'd just walk in with my shirt off. Bitches crawl all over me, I have to throw some oil on so they slip around a little.

Any brand long tubes you recommend and are those a bish to put on? Here's my 2 cents. Long tubes will give you way more performance gain than any muffler swap, keep this in mind when you read what I say next. I like American Racing Headers, there system will bolt right up to the factory catback. No cutting or welding. Headers will change the sound of your factory exhaust, esp with no cats. So before I spent money of mufflers and exhaust systems, try long tubes first, they sound dang good with the factory exhaust. (Which isn't a bad exhaust at all, contrary to popular belief)

I would suggest someone who is local to you. Mail order is ok, but you see a lot of bs and horror stories on various sites. It's always best for the tuner to log YOUR truck, see how it behaves, and adjust your tune accordingly. Mail order tuners *can* log your truck, but it requires you to buy additional hardware. Best bet is find a local tuner.