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onebadmax

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Posts posted by onebadmax

  1. Here are the specs for the cam 231/239 .617/.624 113 lsa

    Being 617/624 is alot of lift I'm worried a out valve clearance issues I know some really good springs would help like the dual springs Comp recommends. But would I need some valve relief job some time in the future?

    Here are the specs for the cam 231/239 .617/.624 113 lsa

    Being 617/624 is alot of lift I'm worried a out valve clearance issues I know some really good springs would help like the dual springs Comp recommends. But would I need some valve relief job some time in the future?

     

    My cam was 226/230 .598/.604. No problems on my lq9. The only way to know for sure is to check your ptv clearance. Sorry I can't be of more help!

  2. Headers, CAI, 2nd servo, transgo (optional but like crisp shifts), decent exhaust, and 93 tune. I always think it's best if you can find a local tuner. That way he can ride with you and log your truck, see what it's doing, and make adjustments. May pick up a few extra ponys that way. But, that's not to take away from any of the tuners on this board. I know zippy does too notch work and a pretty stock truck is easy to get running damn near perfect even without logging it.

     

    Congrats on your purchase.

  3. First let me say I'm no cam expert, but please don't over cam it. Seems to be a mistake a lot of people make. 3600 is perfect for a mid-low 22x intake duration and low 23x/high 22x exhaust duration. The L92 heads flow very well on the intake side so there's no need for a big cam. Besides, you're in a heavy ass truck. You'll want a little TQ down low for the street, just because you have a 3600 stall doesn't mean you'll be using it all the time. Im running a 3200 stall on my 224/228 and wish I went 3600.

    X2, wish I would have gone 3600 myself.

  4. I had slight fitment issues with ARH, the slip fit joint wasn't slip fit at all. The ARH piece was about 0.015 thousandths too big. Not a big deal just die grinder and flap wheel.

     

    You're right though, no way they should be off that far for the money you spent! They do look really good though!

  5. Awful lot of typing, to be "not worth your time".

     

    I've never steered anybody here wrong either. Not really sure what running Gear has to do with anything in this thread. But yeah I run a cycle or two every now and then. So sue me. 2bfast had a good one on me in that thread. I thought it was funny too.

     

    The back and fourth bickering doesn't help anything. The guy you go back and fourth with seems to be building a nice truck. Times have changed, what you might consider cutting corners, other do not, cause these are 8-15k trucks now. Very few people are gonna blow 30k on go fast parts for these trucks nowadays. I like to see things done the right way as well, but some stuff on here is realy trivial, you know?

     

    I'm done with the derail.

  6. I decided to check out this thread to see why it's gotten so many responses in just a few days.

     

    Glad to see that the OP is getting so much useful advice.

     

    What did you expect? Got people on here (mid12secss) that spend more time bashing others than working on their own truck. Like mid 12s are even fast? Bunch of transmission builders on this site.

     

    I've said it countless times on here, it's not the parts that makes a transmission "built". It's the builder.... It's all in the setup. I was roasted on here early on for stating just that, but it looks like I was right all along.

  7. Thanks guys...do I just give them the mods that I have and they send me a program? Is that basically how it works?

    You can buy an autocal, if your tuner uses EFI live.

     

    If not that route, I strongly recommend a tune in person. Your tuner needs to be able to log your truck and make adjustments accordingly. Really it's the only correct way to do it.

  8. So I'm pretty much done with putting "look-good" parts on my denali. I'm ready for some go-fast parts now. I'm going to start with a completely new exhaust. I plan on buying some dynatech long tube headers, a black corsa catback (not db, actual corsa), and I want to install dual 3" qtp wireless cutouts right after the headers before Hiflow cats. Any ideas on how this is going to sound with my lq4? I'd like tame with the cutouts closed, but I know with the 6.0 and the long tubes that'll be probably not doable.

    From my understanding, a corsa exhaust with LT headers will be loud. Imo if you want tame, leave the stock catback on, and use the cutouts when you want to make noise. What year truck do you have? I was unaware the lq4 was in any denali truck.

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