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crawlinss

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Everything posted by crawlinss

  1. you never should have told us that you are female. now the ogling and begging you for pix begins!!!
  2. i agree, i got them brand new for $200, cant complain about that, i think with different y pipes theyll be more noticeable. after driving it around for a full day, there is a decent difference, especially hammering it from like 30 onto the highway it is pretty noticeable, i would def. say worth the money and aggravation once i get the trans and other bolt-ons done.
  3. edelbrock header install these headers went in fairly easy, fit/finish is very good, and their warranty response is great. so far im very happy with them. no huge gain in power, but low to midrange is noticeable. start with the hard side, the driver's side. its a bit of a pain in the butt. disconnect neg battery cable, jack up the truck/use ramps, and remove your collector bolts, 15mm heads. i found it easier to remove the engine covers, and remove the back 2 plug wires and plugs. remove the heat shield (10mm), and then the header bolts (10mm). climb back under the truck, disconnect your front u-joint, and slide your front d/s back. work the manifold out from the bottom. install new header in the same way, making sure to change the crush ring in the y-pipe if applicable. start with the rear bolt, and make sure you put it in straight. we had trouble with the back ones wanting to x-thread. start the threads with the gasket through the bolt, then slide the header under the bolt/washers. install one or two more bolts into the header (new hardware is 13mm), to hold it straight, tighten them snug (not crazy tight) and install the rest of the header bolts. crank them down, i finished at 25-30 ft/lbs. the left side y-pipe had to be massaged a little to line up but worked ok. install your new collector bolts (i used more 8.8 hardened washers as i prefer one on top and bottom.) crank them down with 11/16 hardware, re install your u-joint install your plugs/wires, and the hard side is done! passenger side is very simple, loosen the header, pull it out, install the new one, tighten the same way, starting with the rear, to middle, to front, then the rest of the bolts. hope this helps someone, this turned into a project at 4 pm and ended at 3am (but we also had did brakes on a subaru, had dinner, and had to diagonose a fractured rear drivers side spark plug, find a 24 hr parts store, and drive 74 miles round trip for a new plug!!!!)
  4. installed the edelbrocks today, they seem ok, didnt notice a big improvement though.... the trucks a big bitch, cant really expect headers and a cold air to get it movin out
  5. his trucks got some money and time into it, if i were in the market i would consider it, looks good.
  6. if they are really stuck on there, you can buy a battery terminal puller tool, its like a small pulley puller, works great for those
  7. DONT **** WITH IT!!!!!! you cant fix them, and gm has a warranty fix for them, take it to the dealer!!! i tried to repair my own, and messed up 2 stepper motors in the process, theyre very very sensitive, and the dealer with fix them for free. you cant change them out to any different styles/colors, dont even try. i had a guy off ebay fix mine, did a great job at a great price...of course 6 months later i get the letter saying gm will fix them for free. lucky me.
  8. let me know what you would let it go for picked up and we can work from there...im easy to get along with
  9. how do you retard the timing on these trucks? do you have the part number for the plugs your recommend?
  10. this is the best braking truck ive ever had....out of 2 jeep xj's (no surprise there), a durango (junk) and a dakota r/t (which i would think would stop faster) the ss is the best braking ive ever had....if i think the ss is sufficient, i'd love to go for a ride in mr p's truck!!!!
  11. SELL THAT PIECE OF SHIT COMPUCAR KIT NOW!!!!!! i installed one on my truck and had not one, but TWO solenoids stick open. could have been a very bad day, but i got extremely lucky.......however, i do have a 'cryogenically treated' cold air intake available!!!! im very interested in this whole kit cash in hand LMK
  12. If you're looking for a sport truck, pay the extra $9785 and get a two-door SRT-10. There just isn't any practical way to make a box nearly 19 feet long and six feet tall, weighing 5023 pounds, feel nimble. MOTORTREND CAN SUCK MY DICK!!!! the STOCK SS handles, brakes, accelerates, and looks better than my r/t did....well....before it had the heads/cam spray not that the dakota r/t is in the same ballpark as an srt-10, but the ss handles on/off ramps at 90mph and is awesome in the snow....how many srt-10's did i see this chicago winter a big fat goose egg. SS is the king.
  13. my friend put a cold air on his sentra spec-v, and didnt notice much of a difference. i helped him install it, and we drove it for about 20 minutes, went back to double check everything, and the intake pipe was so hot i burned my hand. i had some header wrap (pretty much the same stuff from DEI that you have up there) and we put it on there.....that made a decent bit of difference. if your engine runs hot (which mine doesnt, i hope yours doesnt either) it may help out...otherwise you should be fine w/o it. i wouldnt pay for a whole kit though, ive got enough for a cold air i'd sell you much cheaper if you want.
  14. the rears are bigger to house the parking brake. i, too, am curious how this would work out. i just posted up a discussion about upgrading rotor size, im not against it, im against the $1500 per axle!!!! for $400 an axle, it might be nice though...
  15. whats up guys... its really late on a saturday night, im slightly buzzed and feeling guilty that i dont contribute as much as i did on the r/t forums. so i want to start a discussion regarding brakes. last weekend i changed all rotors/pads. i was disgusted to find out that my left rear backing plate was almost entirely rusted out, i ended up trimming the rusted section away as it wasnt doing much anyway. that disgusts me that after 4 years of high maintenance and every-week washes, i'd have pieces rusting away on this truck. that notwithstanding, i got the brake job done, and they feel great. the question i have is this... for your average street-high-performance truck, why do we all spend huge money on big-brake systems except for looks?? the stock brake system is more than enough to lock up the ABS system, and with the huge contact patch our tires put to the ground, you can STILL get them to lock up if you wanted to. even though our brakes are smallish when you take into account how heavy the ss is (has anyone weighed an awd ss btw??) but i got 67k of hard use out of my brakes, the rears were totally neglected by the previous owner, and they still worked ok right until i removed them. for road-race apps i can see using baers or wilwoods, but whats the point for a daily driver? post up your opinions, im very curious what everyone has to say!
  16. nevermind, i figured it out. the stupid parking brake shoe broke loose and was keeping me from pulling the rotor off. moderators feel free to delete.
  17. ok so its pouring rain, i cant find my haynes manual, and i need to finish this thing tonight. got the fronts no problem, how do i release the parking brake cable to let the rotor come off???? i cant get it to come out and i dont want to just hammer it off...i think that might be the hack way out. please please please help........post up!!!!
  18. whats up guys.. brakes are at the end of their life, and need replacement. i want to do the 'mild' upgrades IE hawk or other performance pads, powerslot (or other) performance rotors, as just stock premium brake rotors/pads for four corners will cost me about $450. i need suggestions and/or part numbers and most importantly, vendors. any help appreciated!!!
  19. crawlinss

    random ss photos

    uh, see album name.
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