crawlinss

for those long dark stretches of road, is it possible to do this without any major wiring or reprogramming? searched but didnt find a thread related....any help appreciated.

ive got both door panels in ebony, pm me what you think is a fair price shipped, will have pix asap.

ive got everything you need, black, paint is not perfect but needs no bodywork. pm if interested and what you think is a fair price shipped.

ive got one $50 shipped tyd

ive got the center grill piece, $50 shipped tyd let me know!

ive got seats and door panels, i can crate and ship them to a terminal in socal for as cheap as possible. call me 773-206-1968, if youre interested let me know, well figure out a price, ill get pix up asap.

ive got one, very clean but needs paint as its black. i just the cover or the whole assembly. name a fair price plus shipping and its yours, its in my way. the holes for the lower center grill are slightly larger than normal for some reason, but the factory pushclips work just fine. let me know 773-206-1968 john

cheap and drag wheels are two things that you shouldnt use in the same sentence. especially when pushing around 6,000lbs of truck. bogart will make you anything you want, they are not ridiculously expensive, and they are LIGHT. if youre serious about dragracing, bogart is where its at. plus they hold their value very very well, and should you go with a different vehicle/axle, they can put in new bolt sections for you.

man this new technology (well, new to me) is weird. i checked for power on all pins of the light switch, a bunch of them had varying voltages from 13.1 to 14.2 with the truck running at curb idle, stereo/a/c off, etc. anyway, went with the brown w/ white stripe, and is working fine.

when i did my first fluid changes when i bought the truck, it had atf in it. put in autotracII ever since, and have yet to have a problem 55,000 miles later.

all 4 always spin for me in rain/snow.

ive got some, theyre used, but should still be 100% functional. how many do you need?

my clymers manual and wiring prints are pretty much useless on the subject. basically, i need to figure out which wire to tap into so the gauge light on my airbags gauge will come on with dash lights. ive been sick (as usual) with this stupid upper respiratory infection i get like twice a year, so the day off i took to do this whole install turned into half a day worth of work before i was exhausted. any help? im sure i can figure something out but i figured asking the pros would be quicker!

ive got 2. not sure, the clear lens portion might be cloudy, but there are no cracks or anything. name what youre willing to pay shipped, and you can have em.

ok, i just got done with this, and it was/wasnt helpful. its drawing .7x amps, but it will fluctuate up to 8-9 amps every few seconds, and drop back down to .7. i pulled the 50a fuse for the mid electrical buss, and the amp draw drops down to .12 and stays there. i dont know with all the electronic systems, if .12 is acceptable, but ive never had an issue before. consulting my wiring diagram wasnt much help, theres so many things in that circuit i dont know where to look from there.

ive had the same redtop optima in the truck for like 4 years, never had an issue. came out the other day, truck was stone dead. so i jump start it, it charges fine, go to autozone, grab a durlast (their warranty is better than optima, and 1/3 the price, figured i'd try it out). everything was fine for 5 days or so, i drove it home friday about 3.30, then it sat until 6.30 sunday morning, dead again. jumped it, checked charging, the charging meter on the dash is jumping a little more than i'd like to see, my amp clamp says charging @ 80 amps, and leaving a meter on the truck, it took about 3 hours to drop from 12.3 to 1.5v. thats a huge draw, what should i check? i disconnected the positive lead and put my meter in line with the battery to positive lead, and it should very very minor amp draw. im stumped on this one.

yea, theres a few minor leaks, axle seals seep at the ends but dont run low, p/s system seeps but got some new lines for it waiting to go on. previous owner had beat this thing up bad he had axles/trans and all sorts of work at 36k. i bought it almost 4 years ago with 52k and change, this is the most reliable vehicle ive ever owned. same tires are on it 49k later and still have tons of life!!! god bless awd!! my r/t got 2 sets a year....in the rear....i wonder why?

thats a happy lookin dog!!!!

weve got a lot of that in chicago. to beat the enemy, sometimes you have to become the enemy. im very courteous, always signal (except in very specific cases in which i am repaying the no-signal favor), and generally drive protecting the motoring public. i dont like it when there is a lane closure on the highway, and a truck driver feels the need to pace traffic and block the lane a mile and a half before the closure. youre bigger, but youre not the god of the highway. however, i also hate the people that dart up the more open lane to screw everyone else that waited. im somewhere in the middle. im never one of the last to get in, but im not going to help everyone and their brother either. chicago traffic blows no matter what.

i think ill put up a poll........... i hit 100k this week!! regular maintenance, new stepper motors in the gauges, brakes, and shocks is all she's needed so far.... getting a lot of maintenance work next paycheck though!!

i need to buy that bumper hes got for sale ASAP!!!!! if anyone has any other contact info tell him to check his pm's!!!

did you get my pm? im interested in buying asap!!!

the ss is going to get the following work done in the next 2-3 weeks. shell turn 100,000 miles tomorrow most likely, and its time for some preventative maintenance to keep old girl happy. front calipers/pads/rotors (insides of rotors get chewed up faster, i dont like rebuilding calipers) water pump (minor leak) serpentine belt (its factory!!) upper/lower balljoints (passenger lower has play, might as well do all four) all fluids u-joints (theyre knocking a little bit going from p-r and r-d. tie rod ends (might as well while its taken apart alignment (after all that front end work) what about the a-arm bushings, anyone have any recommendations?

im a total idiot and i backed into a fire hydrant a tore a nice chunk out of my bumper cover. i need a clean rear bumper cover for an 03 ss, if its black and doesnt need paint, so much the better. ASAP, i cant stand driving my baby with a huge gash in the bumper. respond here or email directly to my phone [email protected]

mines been on for 3 long years. i had no interest in buing an evap solenoid. but i think i owe it to old girl. this has been my favorite daily driver ive ever had, bar none.