crawlinss

learn something new every day!!! thanks for the quick replies!

my truck is having some issues. i had originally gotten codes p0135 heated oxygen sensor heater performance bank 1 sensor 1 p0141 heated oxygen sensor heater performance bank 1 sensor 2 p0155 heated oxygen sensor heater performance bank 2 sensor 1 p0161 heated oxygen sensor heater performance bank 2 sensor 2 then i also got p0300b engine misfire detected p0420 catalyst system low efficiency bank 1 the truck was running ok in normal driving, but giving it any gas resulted in it being sluggish, slow to rev, lacking power big time, and the check engine light flashing for a few seconds. i brought it in the garage, checked all plugs, they showed no sign of any issues, but replaced them anyway. i had a small exhaust leak from the header to the collector, so i replaced those seals (thinking somehow that was triggering the misfire code), checked compression (175+ on every cylinder) and took it out today. the problems persist, with the addition of when i floor it, it doesnt kick down like it normally does, and once it gets above 4200 rpm or so i start hearing a popping noise. i dont know where to go with this one, i also have an issue with a parasitic draw killing batteries, but i guess well attack one thing at a time lol. any help appreciated im in trouble here.

ive been working on my truck for a few days, and i noticed when i got it up on the jackstands that its sitting on the bumpstops. it rides ok, but this obviously shouldnt be happening. i know i overloaded the truck once over the summer (i got cocky because i have airbags in the back, and had to bring some border stones from menards to my house, about 1/2 mile) i shouldnt have done that, is it possible ive hurt the torsion bar(s)?

brakes are grinding really badly and I need to replace the pads and rotors but CARQUEST ask if they are single or dual piston calipers I am NOT near the truck in without looking at it I can't tell them I need to get these ordered ASAP so I can do them this weekend can anybody help me out here?

ok this has been miffing me for quite a while. originally i pulled the d/s, found a groove in the yoke, had it replaced, replaced the seal, and did u-joints. it still leaks. so i did all my fluids yesterday, found t-cases still leaking from output shaft, with t-case fluid sprayed down my undercarriage, telling me it probably happens more at highway speed. it leaves drops on my driveway though. so i thought maybe the vent was blocked, building up pressure. blew air through the vent, seemed clogged, but it was like 10pm, so we just took a length of 3/8 hose and made a temporary vent to see if it still leaks. it does. anyone have this problem before?? any ideas why???

thanks for the reply, zippy!! i broke them, got new ones in and its running like a top, minus a leaking t-case. more on that in another thread

sorry for the new post, ive looked through a ton, but i need to figure this thing out right now. so i did all my fluids today, i had some trouble getting the pan down, kept getting hung up on the exhast, so i loosened the collector, jacked up the t-case a bit, and slightly bent the shift cable bracket, then it dropped right out. in my struggles i knocked loose 2 small plastic pieces that look like wiring connectors, that each have 2 wires, and 2 small nubs on the other end of them. they were hanging loose when i got the pan down, and judging by the length of wire and how they were bent, i assumed that they were clipped to two electrical coils (shift solenoids?) basically looked like 2 relays if youve ever taken the cover off of a relay. lots of tiny copper wire windings. one of them had a few little copper wire hairs poking out of it. i clipped them back onto where they went, and went about the rest of the work. long story short, i now have no first gear, scanned the codes and they were for shift solenoids A and B. anyone with more trans experience than me have any advice? any way to test? any advice or knowledge on how to replace them if i damaged them? trans was in perfect operating order with good unburned fluid, now it has no first gear so i am 99.9 percent sure its something i did. the pan hung up on the linkage a bit and i was a bit harder on it than i should have been, could it be as simple as a tweaked shifter cable? im so confused and concerned right now. ANY help appreciated. http://media.photobucket.com/image/4l60%20valve%20body%20picture/ssgjurista/4L60E/4L60EValveBodyTypical.jpg it appears it was the shift solenoids that i was having trouble with, and it does look like i put them back in properly, unless i reversed them, but im fairly certain i did not.

huge help, thank you!!!

im pretty sure i had you do it last time, with stepper motors! just couldnt remember your info! that was like 4 years ago, and with how little material you have to work with on the board, i cant say im upset with the results. im going to see if i can find a cheap cluster to use if i send mine out to you, i might give it a go, not sure. do you do the ones in the digital HVAC controls as well? the ones in the switches too? i dont think im comfortable with that...

i dont want to switch to LED's, im looking for a part number or good description of a direct or close to OEM bulb and all that. theyre slowly all starting to go bad, time to repair them. also, im wondering if anyone knows how to power the light circuit in the cluster on the bench? does anyone know the pinouts for pos and neg? any help appreciated.

ive got one still in the box it came in like 4-5 years ago, i thought i would heavily mod my truck then never did. 773-206-1968 figure 25 for shipping TYD make an offer, call or text for quicker response.

sorry guys, these delays are killing me as i can really use the money right now. ill have pictures of everything hopefully this weekend, dont mean to flake out on getting this stuff done. once everythings up with prices it will be moving quick, ill put up my ebay feedback and Itrader ratings on a few websites to verify im not a scammer, just cant seem to move forward with anything.

sorry guys, ive been in and out of the hospital with back problems this week. evidently one of my discs is shaped like australia instead of round and im lucky to be walking normally at 30 years old. i will have pictures up ASAP, but almost everything is in my crawlspace above my garage, and i cant really get in there in the next few days. to clarify though the only bose speaker i have is the sub (im actually looking for a front door one) i wont seperate the wheels.

ive never had a single issue regarding the HID's. i do get high beams flashed at me often though. to hell with em!

hey guys, ive got some stuff for sale. my ss will not ever be built (at least while i own it), its just too damn reliable as a driver/tow vehicle. ive got a ton of odds and ends im selling, ill sell pretty cheap as i need money for my turbo bike project!! will have pictures asap, pm here or for faster response email me at [email protected] subject SS PARTS. so far off the top of my head ive got for sale: taillights -oem headlights -oem tailgate- minor damage, but very good, easy re-spray right side rear passenger door COMPLETE WITH SLATE INTERIOR, got it from a wrecked truck a long time ago for a really good price, thankfully never needed it. visors, almost all slate plastic interior pieces including door sill scuff pads, all cladding to cover center console, dash bezel, etc. bose factory amp and sub damaged but repairable ss rear bumper cover, i backed into a fire hydrant, damage is in the center, a tear about the size of a silver dollar, i can do all the bodywork and/or paint if necessary. front bumper cover, good shape, but needs repaint -black no grills front lower grill from an 03 stock intake/throttle body mass air sensor lots of other random bits and pieces. really trying to drum up extra cash for this bike project, dont be afraid to make any reasonable offer. also have chrome ss wheels, one oem, 3 are rechromes, condition like 8/10, no real curb rash, extremely extremely minor pitting in the corner on one or two of the, never used in chicago winters. those will be coming off in the next week or so. will crate/ship any/all of this. let me know!

ive got clean 05 chrome rims (one factory, 3 re-chromes) that are like 8/10 condition,see my other f/s thread for other parts if you need any!

mine just went dim a few weeks ago, then last week the light behind the voltmeter went out too! i already had all steppers/leds replaced a few years ago, but i see you switched to blue ones? any chance of a writeup with pics on the how-to??? i'd love to tackle it myself this time!! also where to buy proper parts would help as well! tanks!!!

long story short, every now and again for the last few months i would go to signal, and it would either remain lit or unlit. everything in the stalk feels just fine, not loose, not sticking or anything, im thinking its more an electrical issue than mechanical. its progressively getting worse in the last few weeks. now, the first thing im thinking is i replaced my 7 way rv plug a few months ago with a model that has 'self-checking' led's, im thinking it could possibly be backfeeding to the bcm? ive got a new standard 7 way plug im going to install asap, but i figured i'd pick your brains and see if anyones had this happen before. im under the impression that our trucks do not have a standard flasher, that its all solid-state somewhere in the truck. if anyone could shed more light on this subject i'd greatly appreciate it!

yes and no. i had bad contact inside of the positive terminal on the battery, so the problem went away, i just didnt diagnose properly. skipped one of the most basic steps and it stung me in the ass. havent had a problem since though, and have a good optima on the battery tender now lol.

03 SS, AWD, which model transfer case is in our trucks? the tag is too pitted, cant see it. also, the output shaft seal is leaking on the transfer case. i hope its not a cracked tailshaft, im going to inspect it and try a new seal. how does it get installed? do you just remove the yoke? does that just slide out? does the case have to come apart? little nervous about this one,cant afford to have the truck down right now. any help appreciated!!

got one. $75 shipped with harness. 773-206-1968.

have a tailgate piece and corner piece, both need paint but are in good shape. 773-206-1968 let me know.

ive got one, 60k miles, bought complete except one bad rotor. can crate and ship. i paid $500, and dont want to lose $$. 773-206-196eight, let me know if you want it.

want this thing gone like....this week. paint is factory, very very minor scratches, just claybarred, ready to crate and ship, or for pickup. south chicago, i want it GONE. still has cladding bracket, and i do have cladding to go with, but it needs to be reprepped and painted. complete with dark slate interior, glass, everything. pix available, text me.

ive got an 03 lower grill, used but good shape. pm/post here if you want it.