crawlinss

well, last night I did a little bit of work, I cleaned and checked the grounds under the drivers door, they were fine. I removed my battery and battery tray, as I read that there were problematic grounds under the battery tray, but did not find any. I also installed new battery terminal ends as the factory ones were fairly gnarly. abs light is still on. I need to pick up my scanner tonight and move further with it, I guess I could pull the fuse, but Id prefer it be fixed before fall. ive never felt the abs work on dry pavement, thanks to the sucky Silverado stock brakes.

ill get up in the attic and take a look. none of it has bodywork, cracks, or filler, but all need paint. ill get back to you asap.

thats exactly my thought, why go through the trouble of making a great looking stock paint job when I can do something else. it is a 150k mile daily driver, so I don't want to do anything show worthy. just want something nice and different.

im sure im the only person looking LOL i do have some cladding i could trade.

so i have had my truck for almost 9 years, and its been awesome. it has about 142,000 on it, and runs like a top, with the exception of check engine light (i think its the evap purge AGAIN), and abs light (im going to look into that tonight). it is still very presentable, normal nicks and scratches, its never been wrecked, but the rear bumper is looking pretty fugly, and the bed could be better. i removed the bed to repaint it last fall, and not only am i not happy with how it turned out overall (very minor imperfections in the bodywork in one spot) and the reason i started the whole ordeal was to get rid of some rust bubbles forming over the passenger side wheelwell. im not sure if maybe the back of the repair did not get sealed well or what, but its back with a vengeance, and i want to repair it again, this time for the rust never to return. ive got the infamous innner/outer rocker rust, but with the SS cladding it isnt visible. i may do the rockers over the winter (now that i got to learn on someone else' car LOL) but for now my question is this: should i repaint it factory black, or should i do a hot-rod black. i wouldnt consider it being "murdered out", except that i do have blacked out head and taillights. im just unsure of if i really dig the look or not, as flat black is every hack's go-to for a quick rattle can job. i would just hate to put in that much work for it to look stock. i did insurance paint/bodywork for a year, so i know the frustration of no one recognizing a perfect job. i wouldnt be opposed to just doing stripes (like the hockey stick stripes or something). just need some suggestions!

does anyone have a part number for this module and price?? my light has been on for months and I feel like a dick driving around with dash lights on. also where is this stupid module located, is it the block under the master cylinder?

03 ss. Earlier this week I was getting an abs light on, I scanned it, it said "abs pump motor circuit open" but was intermittent. Today on the way home I got that, then flashing red "check brake system" light. Pulled over, then truck wouldn't restart. I don't hear the fuel pump. Any ideas on where to start?

So I need to completely go through my rear brakes, and I'm having massive trouble figuring out exactly what I have. 2003 ss, g80 rear axle, jb4 brake code. I believe I have 4.11's, but need to know ring gear size, and any other details so I can order backing plates, parking brake shoes and hardware, pads, and all that good stuff. I've searched, I can't find any reliable info. Thanks in advance.

dude where did you get that that looks exactly like one I sold a few years ago!!! I might be interested in buying it estimate UPS shipping to 60803 [email protected]

unloaded is fine I am powder coating a set of brakes and don't want my truck torn apart for a week while I do it. [email protected]. thanks!

Ill gladly pay for ups shipping, its not that bad lol. [email protected] if you want em gone!

well, the HID issue is probably as simple using cheap ebay HID kits. and for the price, theyre not that bad. im more curious if anyone knows how EXACTLY to test ballasts/bulb elements, like what type of reistance, ac/dc, etc etc. it'd be good info to have. now onto the part thats really got me tweaked. so my cats were clogged, i straight piped the truck, and had it re-tuned to pass emissions. truck runs and sounds awesome. i have a kia that i use for my work beater, so ive been working on the truck's issues one by one since that. i took the truck for an 80 mile ride last weekend as it was going to sleet/snow, and noticed that my cruise control wouldnt come on. the icon on the cluster, nothing. so, i start thinking a bit, and the next morning, i notice that my right turn signal doesnt work. the indicator on the cluster for the right side has been bad for a while, so i know its not that (im sending the cluster out soon for LED upgrade and repairs. i hear a CLICK from under the dash by my right shin, and all bulbs (turn signals) light, but dont blink off. left turn signal works fine. hazards, all bulbs stay on. the cruise control and the turn signal problems, unfortunately, are intermittent. after i first noticed this, i was on the highway a day or two later and tried the cruise, worked perfectly. turn signal worked perfectly as well. on the return trip, the problem came back up. i cant make heads or tails of this, im hoping someone has had this issue before.

i just read that a bad DIC or gauge cluster can do this. ive been having the same issues with my 03, i found two fuses, that when removed, brought the parasitic loss to within spec. i brought to a dealer (tech specified by my tool dealer) for a pcm reprogram, had him look into it, and he didnt even find anything.

Hey guys, quick question. My buddy has an avalanche, had a good head unit in there but has since put a different one in. He got it wired and everything, it powers up, but no sound. So he pulls the radio from his blazer, plugs it in, same thing. Plugs the first "bad" radio In the blazer, it works fine. So from what I can tell, he's got the problem isolated to the truck. I've never heard of an issue like this, any thoughts from the pros here?? All help appreciated.

well, i got my truck back today, had bad cats, and took it to a friend of a friend at the dealer, and he 'tuned out the cats'. i needed my truck back ASAP, he told me it would pass emissions. (illinois is just a generic obdII scan). now im asking for a detailed answer as to HOW this is done exactly. i understand the part about still running the 02 heater self check and everything, but if the pcm is ignoring the rear 02, how does it ever get into closed loop? im going to text him in the morning, im VERY happy with the results so far, the truck feels like its come back to life. anyone in chicago needing performance work done get a hold of me and ill put you in contact, he works at a dealer, but has done a lot of high end upgrades on ssr's zo6's etc etc. anyway, just looking for a more detailed answer if anyone has one. thanks!!

if youre still interested im pretty sure i still have one NIB if youre still interested i think i have one up in the attic, i could double check this weekend!

ill take a 3x hoodie and 3x tee shirt in black shipped to 60655? paypal at the ready!!

im looking for a rear bumper cover, drivers seat cover in dark gray, passenger mirror. pm with price shipped to 60655 on any of these items.

well guys, i got everything all straightened out. the left cat was completely clogged, cut them both out, drove it open headers to the local muffler shop, got some straight pipes welded in, then drove it to a guy my tool dealer recommended. he tuned out the cats, i drove it to work and then home, its running awesome, and is loud as hell LOL. thanks for all your help and advice!!!

well, the backpressure tester i ordered on ebizzle showed was here when i got home from work at 1 am, so naturally i went out in the garage lol. left cat is definitely clogged. i talked to one of my tool dealers, he has a friend at the gm dealer that should be able to tune out the front o2's, i need to talk to my local exhaust guys and see if theyll weld in straight pipes, im not a fan of clamping exhaust together if i can avoid it. are there any other issues that might arise from tuning out the o2's? i have a hypertech on the truck, that wont affect anything, correct?

ok, ill be the first to admit, im not a pro with modern obdII engines. for the last 8 years ive been working on diesel, so this is all familiar to me, but i cant make heads or tails of what most of my scantool was telling me. using my scanner, everything seemed to be reading ok, all self-tests were ok, i didnt detect any misfires (neither did the truck), i simply used an infrared thermometer on each header primary, and theyre all firing, so i dont have a consistent misfire, if at all. the o2 sensors were running in the 374mv area, one seemed to jump around more than the others, should my scanner be able to turn on the 02 heaters to test them? all IGN fuses were good. ill ask the dumb questions because id rather do that then ruin a MAF or something. how do i clean them properly? i didnt want to just douche it in electronics cleaner, same question for the throttle body. should i remove it and clean it in parts cleaner or can i simply spray it out? heres a screenshot of what the truck had going on when the misfire code appeared:

have an 03-05 as well.

battousai - thanks so much for posting that!!! cant find stuff like that in a haynes manual LOL.

141,000 miles, factory cats. i need to avoid throwing parts at the truck, im pretty tight for money right now LOL, trying to get this figured out properly.

what are the odds of having 4 02 sensors go bad at once? thats the main reason i didnt do 02 sensors yet.