Quik

figured id post the latest

the heads flow the same. the only gain you get from the 243 heads is bump in compression and the power the follows. general rule is for every .5 in cr you raise or lower yoru hp by 15-20 so you can pay the 500 for the 243 heads or have yours milled. now if i was going to go thru effort of this i would find a set of ported 243 heads to make this worth while livernois sells a good set of 243s with good flow numbers for a decent price the price of heads 500 + head gaskets+ head bolts + fluids just to gain say 20 hp isnt worth it IMHO. if you found a set of used ported 243s for 800 then it be worth it

another option is mill your 317s .030 which would be around 100 -150 bucks and would net you the same compression as 243s on that motor

depending on what you truely want out of the 4.8 will determine your cam size. a tiny tiny cam of a 208/210 wont be much of an improvment for a performance standpoint. if this is you true daily driver and you just want a little more then yea you could install that cam. a 4.8 can be had to run strong and hang with other motors but you got to treat them like rever's. big gear, big converter, and large cam. they will run well a 224/224 on a 114 is a decent cam with a 3k stall and 410s for a 4.8. Idle like stock with a good lope and have decent pull to 7k

orignal plans were not to keep it but in this situation i got work with i have

my personal setup never seen high IATs. never once seen 120*. highest was sitting in staging lanes and that was 108*. Typically i see 20* above ambient and that is no meth or E85. Pretty effiecent setup just not a fan of putting hot air into a motor, which will reduce power and possibly lead to melted motor parts

again youre arguing for the hell of it to just make a post. ive said all along maggie is what would be best f or HIM. that little more umph is there with the maggie o btw. the big blowers those funny cars your speak of arent the same as the maggies or the centrif you see on modern vehicles. So that is a wash out im not selling him on turbo, read anywhere you possibly can in this post im trying to sell turbo. Ive stated since post one that a maggie would best suit his needs.

then you agree with what i said. if your only looking for little more umph then a Maggie style is the way to go But, instead you decided to argue. i like turbos for bang for buck, if a centrif was a better bang for buck id like that maggie style is great for a DD and setup that wants little more then NA when you want to step up with the big leagues then you got to step up to the big toys im also not a fan of IATs over 100*

you had mentioned 700awhp from a 2300 correct? Dave had a 427 which alone should be a 500 to the wheels motor easily. to spend the money it costs on a 2300 to only acheive 700awhp id shoot myself. A stock internal 6.0 with a turbo can do 700 easily, stock internal 6.0 with a procharger will do 700 easily i havent seen a big Rwhp from a 2300 yet, i think most ive seen is low 900s and that was a big 434ci motor. a 434 ci motor with properly sized turbo you have well over 1500+ rwhp you mention more tuning. the tuning it takes to tune a turbo setup isnt anythign more then any other boosted setup.

you want Zero back pressure. what you want is properly velocity and scavenging. back pressure is very bad

here soemthing to think about. Turbos have came stock in vehicles for years and they have plenty of reliabities. as for maintenance and up keep, every setup out there will need to be maintenanced. I almost garrenty most ppl out there over look flushign their coolant when using Dexcool around 40k, most ppl over look changing tranny fluid at 35k intervals. also addign boost to a motor that was never intended for boost is going to require more attention to it then a motor that orignally spec'd for boost if i wanted a little more UMPH in power and something i could slap on i would go a Maggie. If i wanted to make actual power then i sure as hell wouldnt use a maggie or its cousins if i wanted some actual power for a pricey tag i would go centrif blower.. you get power and whine if you want flat out power most then go turbo, turbos put out more power for less effort also something to think about with a turbo cubic inch isnt as important but with a blower you need cubic inch to go along with the blowers to make power

curious how you came up with the figure of spending 5x tuning a turbo setup i got to hear this one,

the cost vs the power is one reason

if setup right a turbo setup has no lag what so ever. if setup wrong a Centrif blower has lag. also remember this with any blower setup it puts stress on the thrust bearing since your applying pressure to the crank thru the crank pulley. That right there puts more stress on the motor then a turbo does. Any person can slap on a blower kit, a turbo kit has to be fabbed unless you buy a sellers kit you can do a rear mount and be pretty cheap since you get to keep lmost of the parts you have now. With blower setup it costs you more money sine you have to upgrade the entire exhaust. centrif blower requires a decent size stall, a properly spec'd turbo can use stock stall as for your tranny lasting that all depends on how you drive and power

yea im taking the evening Journeyman advance classes. Im a first year that decided i wanted my certs as fast as possible. I wanted to be estabished as a welder rather then a duct hanger. In april im taking the Journeyman Tig classes, just to see what flaws i have in tig and if i can improve. Yea i cant see paying a shop the money they get. Im not rich by no means and take more pride in doing ti myself then writing a check

So i got bored one day and decided build a twin setup to display little of my fab abilities. Some know that im in Local 12 which is the sheet metal union and ive been in school since last year along with night classes getting my welding certifications. With having this background i wanted something i display my schooling. What better way then a bunch of tubes heres a few pics being this is a twin setup i wanted everythign to be as symetrical as possible this build wasnt about how much power or how fast this setup can go. This build was a soul purpose of display. So if it runs 13s i dont care, the journey to finish is the fun part and exciting part of it.

im not worried about lifting heads with this build. I also dont believe the size of the head stud is a factor in that equation. increasing size of a bolt is only going to do so much. the head is still going to distort inbetween the two studs. so you run more chance of warping a head then you do anything. ive seen builds with the stock size studs have no issues with a prepped block i might run TTY head bolts once again. My last build i didnt lift a head and with a TTY bolt its a like a fuse. id rather have the bolts stretch then take out a set of heads

yea the block in the truck is bare with some junk 98 heads on it just for mock up. its getting there slowly. finished up tacking one DP together, got get to finishing up the passengerside DP. i got a lead on a set of heads just need extra cash to pick them up

i want good heads to help keep the cylinder pressures down. make the most power NA then add boost

real setup is still quite abit of money away. Unless you want to donate some parts. i need some good heads

no

isnt holtys truck on stock 65e and has been boosted for over 4 yrs now and has ran n20 his setup as well?

if you have software you dont need to swap between PCMs. just save your file and set it aside then upload the SD file. If you want to go back to maf just upload the file. no need for two pcms as for frying PCM urban legend ive never heard of that but there is alot of garbage posted on the net about what works and doesnt. to many variances for someones file to work for yours especially being up in AK

bov is after the intercooler. that temp bov vents means nothing living in AK you wont have issues with SD if the tune was done right. use the adders in the program to assist your fueling in the different temps you see meth nozzle before IAT so you can see the temp change MAF in garbage also id reconsider your tubing you have. the more silicone you have more chance of leaks, more chance of a blow off. if you can get away with only 2 one at tb and one at IC that will work best.