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Quik

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Everything posted by Quik

  1. -12 off each valve cover into their own breather/catch can -6 from the valley cover vented to atmoshpere the head ports are routed back into rad go over to yellowbullet.com can search for that topic, youll see a good few threads about it, theres also few threads about it on ls1tech. search for Kurt urban i think his name on that site is 427
  2. http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1784368483584 another video from that day
  3. take a SBC T stat, remove everything from it and install it in place, takes the opening and necks it down 35% roughtly [restrictor] Purple ICe from royal purple is what i used but products like Red line and etc work to Look into Kurt urban performance he sells a nice product of this or do as i did and look into KBC racing, its a dirt track company Meth and E85 are alcohal both keep motors cooler, not mention when injected it lowers IATS greatly
  4. I run a restrictor instead of stat. Big Rad 70% water with coolant and ice additive. Iats stay cool since e85 and Meth Bought an fittings for head ports fail safes are in ect and iat control. Allows you to dump fuel and pull timing at your set level Ls motors have horrible coolant flow. The rear sections of block are known to get hot and create hot spots when not vented. I also set my fans low to maintain ect
  5. Simple things allow stock motors last. Coolant temps in the 150s keep iats under 100* Frequent oil changes Majority water based coolant Vent all 4 sides of heads Smart with afr smart with fail safes in the tune Good fuel
  6. Also since motor is 10.0 I wanted to keep cylinder temps down. I'm not one to lie about my builds. Once I get more injector I may shoot for mid 800s
  7. Yea 20* is my timing number. Meth is I'm using small intercooler and on 60s at 68 base I've not had a stock motor fail when boosted
  8. something to think about, a forged motor doesnt make more power then a unforged motor. It just can withstand a few more faults found. if your Iats are cool and your ects are cool as well, you run good fuel you should be able to make good numbers especially with a 88mm. Tune and setup is key to making numbers. best of luck with your build and if your lacking the numbers you expect and everything is in check then find a new tuner. 18psi from a 88mm is in the range of mid 800s if setup correctly
  9. Wcch317 Self ported fast 230/236 cam 20* up top 10.7 70s iats Ects. In 150s Nothing special just keeping motor cool helps
  10. Fyi I ran more timing on straight 93 and more boost
  11. The tune I'm the least worried about its current clutch. Once I get a clutch I trust ill worry about running at that level but you guys act like stock motors aren't strong. I trust sstock before trust some builders Comes down to make power na then add boost. O btw timing and afr aren't aggressive for 11psi
  12. the 4.8 setup lasted awhile to then clutch went, i wont be making any passes anytime soon at this power level. ill lower it down to mid 5s and make a few passes. my goal is 11.5 for now im on a stock Ls7 clutch and i cant afford to hurt this thing anytime soon. O btw my 4.8 lasted more then most ppl's forged motors at same powre levels. almost 7k worth of mileage with a 7800 limiter
  13. to be quite honest im very pleased with those numbers, id like to one day get a motor that will hold 20 psi or so. id like to think i would see 1xxx 1xxx at those levels
  14. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ML7S-Gj62m8] all pulls were on 11psi just off the wastegates, E85 and a metric ton of VP M1 meth. this was on a 10.0 CR Ls2, stock headgaskets and stock head bolts this was on a mustang dyno 767.7rwhp and 734.4 were final numbers of night, i didnt want to push it anymore with timing. Im not using a boost controller so no adjustment in boost
  15. These damn phones and their auto correction lol See ill agree with that but I'm curious to the 05-07 owners since I'm now using a master from a drum vehicle. I know with old school you needed different masters with disks conversions
  16. On my 02 truck i swapped to SS braided lines, 14" rotors up front and 08 calibers, on rear i swapped to 03 SSS rear calibers with 14" rotors and SS braided lines. I also swapped to a 06 SSS brake booster/master cylinder. now heres my problem ive bled my brakes with a mity vac for about 3 full large bottles of brake fluid, however i cant seem to get a solid pedal when truck is running the 06 booster is larger and the master is larger then my stock 02 piece, now for the ppl that swapped to disks on their 05-07 trucks did you change your brake booster/master cylinder to one of a disk brake truck?
  17. ls3 style which supposly same as trucks
  18. its a 03 truck that recently got a GMT900 intake and TBSS DBW tb with an x link. Truck seems to run fine off idle but seems as the idle is hanging up and it throws a couple codes then goes into reduce power mode. ive seen some reports of early X links that were bad, seen some saying the TBSS tb is an issue. Liked to hear others thoughts on this ive played with idle airflow tables up and down and still doesnt seem like its making much change, so reason why posting up
  19. i bought this kit for my truck, seems as the front lines dont mate to the stock truck hard lines. Ive googled and seen others having similar issues.. anyone have experience with this kit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-672430/
  20. i have a set of 08 calilber brackets. they are same PBR calibers as 05s.
  21. i have for sale a SSBC big brake kit its for 99-04 trucks and SUVs this kit takes your stock calibers and pads and relocates them with different brakes. It uses 14" rotors that are slotted. This kit is brand new as i just got it. The rotors are still in a sealed box from SSBC. It comes with new brakes that bolt on with no other mods. You dont even have to disconnect your brake lines to use this. this kit sells for 445 and im selling it for 350+ shipping. shipping weight is roughly 73lbs. I had to buy this kit to get the rear kit for my turbo truck. minimal wheel size is 18" with this kit ive decided to not use these crane gold roller rockers. these are adjustable as in the old school rockers. they come with the correct lenght pushrods 7.250, guide plates, studs, locking nuts. when using these rockers the use of 7.250 rocker is required which means you wont need your typical 7.4 lenght pushrods these sell new for 740, asking 500 i have a east coast customs lower valance for a 03-07 classic silverado. this valance is brand new still in the box. They sent me the wrong valance. ive been running their 99-02 valance since 2003 and their fitment is perfect. I just bought my 5th valance from them so im very pleased with their product as you can see for the front lower intercooler guys this valance already comes with holes for an intercooler. its a smooth valance that just needs prepped work to be painted. Its made from ABS plastic so its pretty stout, just dont hit a curb or deep pop hole lol asking 100 + shipping again this is brand new and still in the box it came in this is a GM piece. IT has a new chrome center bar, the other shell is in good shape no cracks or nothing just painted white. comes with a new GM bowtie as well asking 150 + shipping i purchased these used and they have bungs tig'd in place for EGT probes. These were dyno session headers. They are new around 1400 dollars i never used these but i have used similar kooks for my 408 and they fit the RCSB GMT800 trucks nicely, depending on year the passenger frame sometimes touches the one primary, some massage the tube to clear some heat up the headers and persuade them over im looking to get 650+ shipping for these these are kooks stainless 1 7/8 stepped to 2" primaries these are ideal for 6.0+ larger motors
  22. no i havent, i just got truck assembled 20 minutes before i needed to be at the show unloading truck. come spring time ill work on dyno and etc
  23. new look for 2011, pics are taken at th 50th aniversary world of wheels other pics are taken at bodyshop prior to be loaded up for show
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