jester08

I've been hearing lots of good feedbacks about EBC. A friend of mine had install one on his car. It works just fine... regarding the price - it really varies. just go around some auto parts stores and compare prices. just a tip: just go for the ones that you think will look good on your ride. Good luck

I patiently waited for two weeks for my transmission line and this must be a problem of many as the dealer seem to run out of stock. Now I have AN fittings and steel braided lines on my 98 Chevy Silverado. I recently had fuel injection style clamps and Goodyear hose as well.

Yeah man..I agree with them.I have encountered almost the same problem with my car particularly my BMW brake pads...it becomes more complicated 'coz I'm not cleaning my brakes every now and then...Well, I'm not very good at that...So, the advice of my mechanic is that I should always ensure my car's maintenance by visiting him at least once a month...I'm still contemplating on it...

When your car is running, the various parts get hot and expand. After you shut it off, the parts cool off, but at different rates. An exhaust manifold shrinks faster than the cylinder head that it's bolted to, so when they rub together, they make a ticking noise. Same with your converter, which gets to about 1000 to 2000 degrees, much hotter than anything else on the car. As to your mileage, many things could be causing it. Blocked converter/exhaust system, as has been mentioned; needs a tune-up; fuel injection/carburetor problems. Find a good mechanic. Ask around. Try to bring at autozone and let them check for the code, it was here where my brother brought his car when he had some Avanti catalytic converter failure and check the code for free... Anyway, not heard anything about service light coming on due to shot cat but I know about light coming on and throw a P0175 code, caused by a faulty or dirty MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor caused by "oiled" air filters usage... But since, it was already fixed, try to clean the MAF sensor. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling... Good luck!!!

Good to hear that the code was gone.. It just seem that nobody answered your question about the cause of the code P2104 - Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Idle... Anyway, the first time I encountered the same code, I thought it was my Plymouth oxygen sensor and the throttle control system at the same time because I suspect it is already worn out and needs to be replaced... To make the story short, I brought it to my mechanic and he told me that it wasn't the O2 sensor... The code means that only the Throttle actuator control system is in FMEM mode of forced idle. He discovered that the PCM was damaged, I got it replaced and the code was gone... He also told me that multiple ETC system faults or bad APP sensor could also be a cause of P2104... Anyway, hope this helps in case the code show up again... Good luck!!!

I used to have a handheld tune with a GM fuel saver programmer on my GM... But it really does a little improvement on the mileage... Had modified my exhaust system and swap to custom tune... Not only that it had increased my car's mileage but it added an extra HP in it... Just make sure that everything that you are gonna do to do to your can be handle by its parts, as my mechanic advised... Also, don't forget to do your home work and ask for second opinion if your not sure in what you are doing... "DON'T ASSUME, YOU ASSURE"...

Yeah, when I removed my Buick oxygen sensor... Since then my computer has been throwing codes on me... Until I brought it to my dealer and had it fixed by getting a SIM... Which a software representation of the real O2 sensor... So that, the computer would not throw codes like P0138...

When my brother had the same problem in his BMW, we thought it was only a faulty wiring... But when we brought it to the mechanic, it turned out to be a blown fuse... So with a few wiring adjustment and fuse replacement.. It was fixed immediatley... My brother is also planning to get a BMW clear light and Xenon HID, it is mostly used in Europe, but we don't know if this kind of lights are legal here in our states...

When my stainless steel GM exhaust tips had discoloration of the stainless due to the exhaust temperature that made it gold in color... I tried mixing up some citric acid and water which cleaned about 50% in patches of the "golding effect"... It made some improvement but my friend told me that it can still reoccur...So, I put a polished sleeve around the pipes so that the heat won't transfer so easily and you won't have to polish everytime I drive around... By the way, nice pic... Just like a mirror you can yourself on that tip, looks like it was clear coated...

Removing rear bumper is an easy job. A friend of mine help me do it. Just be very careful in removing the GM bumper cover, to avoid it cracked or have some scratches.

I got a EBC brake pads for $25 and works well with my resurfaced GM brake rotors.

Price is really not a matter, I bought one of this it was really pricey but it was all worthy because it has great warranty... Even the replacement and attachment of my GM Bed rail cap was covered by the warranty, I did not spent a single cent.

At first I too was worried about that noise and it seems that this happens as the axles lock, and then away it goes. I almost resorted to replacing my axle assembly but now no worries.

welcome here! Speaking of tranny upgrades, I am wondering how torque split is affected by the amount of differential locking or if they are at all inter related.

I've heard good feedbacks about Baer and I personally would go for it as well. Also hoping to find a good deal for a vacuum booster with electrical motors as I am also planning to do brake upgrades.