zippy

That cam is a great cam for a daily driver with a mild stall like that. The higher stall would of course be alot better, but the TBTC would be enough to get the job done. The downside is that the cam is quite choppy due to the overlap and LSA and will take some very impressive tuning to get past emissions. It is possible, but going to be tough. I would recommend the Trick Flow 220/224 cam ( http://www.trickflow.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS%2D30602002&autoview=sku ) over the 275 Comp simply because it will be more emissions freindly due to less overlap and yet be similar power wise.

There are probably 50 or more trucks on here with that cam. Why on earth would you do a TBSS converter? If you want to do a cam you should use a converter with a higher than stock stall, yes. The converter from the 4.2L Trailblazer is a decent stall over stock, but the TBSS converter is no better than a stock SSS.

Good memory Kevin. Once I read that I remembered AZFASTESTSS doing that. I think there was another one with a 1.57 somewhere back, but can't remember who. Again it also wasn't on a fastest pass. Not many SSS guys run drag radials so you won't see many running better than a low 1.6 60'. Even being AWD you need drag radials to get a 1.5 and there aren't enough 2wd's on here that are modified that heavily.

The tunes posted in there are for reference only. Do not load a tune into your truck other than your own tune. Tuning is alot more complicated than just finding someone's hacked up work and using it. I wouldn't recommend it.

Part of your issue is going to be the side of the pipe around the mass air sensor. That can change the calibration on the maf quite heavily and cause the fuel trim issue's and can cause some issue's with the throttle body. The fuel trims difference between idle and cruise might be from the short pulse adder being different from the other injectors and your current one's. The 2135 though may be an issue with the x-link, throttle body, or calibration.

Call me when you get time. There is certainly a problem there. Are you getting a maf code along with the lean code? What injectors are you running. When you sent me the info for your blower you weren't sure and said they were 42's with what you described as the EV1 connector. Have you checked to see if you have an air leak between the maf and the throttle body. Where in the system did you mount the blowoff valve? Something is way off. You should be seeing 14.5-15.0 on the wideband at an idle and cruise with fuel trims of + or - 3 and wide open afr of 11.4-11.8. If you are any leaner than 12.0 don't get on it until this is fixed.

Looks like you certainly need to step up to a better tire. You're getting to the power level where traction is a big deal. Nice to see you run it on the tires you drive it on every day, but I'd recommend looking into a NT05 or something softer. What cam are you looking to go with?

Your 60' time is about right on for a Procharger with a stock converter although the mph is a bit low. Does it feel like it's laying down in third or something? Basicly from your mph and 60' time your truck comes out slow, pulls hard in the middle, and then lays down on the big end. You're on a decent path to going faster though, congrats on getting a 13.5.

Something I must not be getting. All 3 show the map at 102kpa. Where are you saying it isn't working? Is yours not showing this???

GM Parts Direct is where one of my customers just bought his 8.1L injectors. He bought the normal truck one's and not the marine version though. They were by far the best price.

What I said was to check the wiring and if you find nothing you can try replacing it. The problem at this point is that you're throwing parts at it and just costing yourself money. You need to go over the wiring and find the problem. The 1518 and U107 code are basicly the same problem. You may have corrosion at the connector which wouldn't be unusual since the TAC module location can get plenty of water on it if the hood seal is no good. There are many possible causes of this. The problem could be in the pcm software, pcm connector with a pin backing out, TAC module fuse, TAC module connector, ground issue, etc. A TAC module to pcm comunication issue is just that, not a bad throttle pedal, not a throttle body, etc. There is a pcm to control the engine and transmission and a TAC module to control the throttle body based on info from the ABS module, PCM, ATC module, etc. If the TAC module doesn't communicate with the PCM you will instantly get a code and reduced power. This is what you need to chase down. Does the TAC module have power to it, does it have a good ground, is the wiring that connects the TAC to the PCM any good, etc.

Thank you guys. I try to do what I can to help as much as I can because I enjoy what I do. When you enjoy your job it makes everything easier including trying to balance time. Again thanks for the compliments and thank you for also enjoying your trucks as much as I do my own. It makes it all worth it.

I've looked at your samples and they all show the map correct. The gauge, table, and chart display all match. Call me when you have some time and I may be able to help you through something here because it all looks normal on my screen.

For a daily driven street tune I'd recommend keeping the LTFT's on. For a setup that is more of a race vehicle than street vehicle and has a very, very well dialed in tune I turn them off and simply leave the STFT's on. The main reason the LTFT's are desired on the street is that differences in fuel can be compensated for easier as well as a mechanical problem. If you have a vacuum line fall off and only use the STFT's you will be horribly lean if you go wide open where as the LTFT's can help compensate until you fix it. If you are confident of your mechanical side and the tune is very well done you can turn off the LTFT's. You will know right away how good your tune is if you shut off the LTFT's and keep an eye on your STFT's. if you write yourself a track only tune you'll likely want it to be open loop only or open loop with STFT's on.

If it is tuned for 91 you will want to run that in it until you get the tune put back to stock. Keep in mind though that 87 octane is the minimum you should run in it and that seriously is minimum. The stock 5.3L will commonly get KR with 87 octane in there even with the stock tune so I would recommend 89 octane even stock. The price diffence per tank is about $2.00 per tank for 89 over 87. BTW, since this is an SSS forum you should put your truck info in the post if it isn't an SSS because rightfully so it will be assumed that you have an SSS. Not being mean, but it will help your case at times when asking questions.

The 2.24 is great. Nice to not have to click that beta warning every time although I'll likely end up with 2.25 beta soon enough. One thing to make sure everyone does is to manually check your Windows updates once in a while since the framework updates are often under optional updates and therefore aren't usually done with the automatic updates. Basicly if you have your computer set for automatic updates you still should check the update list once a month manually to make sure you have the latest updates. Most problems with HPT are based on not having the latest framework updates especially in the logging portion.

What do you mean by "useable"? I'm assuming that you've already tried to contact him. He may contact you now that you've posted here.

Holy crap that is rediculous. You need to meet up with some guys from this site and find a better solution to a shop or having one of them do it for you. I know a few guys from Cali that could do the job for way less than that. If you are paying for the install I would really be a bit more picky on the parts you put in there. Call me if you have some time and I can go over your best options for it.

At $135 it isn't cheap enough in my opinion. If you use that cam you'll need to buy extra parts to make it work since LS9 cams won't have a reluctor on them. You'll need to get a 1x cam gear and LS2 style front engine cover as well as extend the wires for the cam sensor to go from the back of the engine to the front. The LS9 cam will offer a decent power gain, but certainly not the best choice for a cathedral port head N/A engine. If you were doing a blower or nitrous this cam would serve well. If you are stayng N/A just buy a cam that works better for your setup even if it is used.

Knowing how difficult it can be to get past emissions I say go for it. There is a side note to that though and that is they will only be worth doing if you are doing the labor yourself. The gain will be there, but not a huge gain. It will be a decent gain for the $700 or so you'll have in them with gaskets and fluids as long as labor isn't in there. If you are paying for labor along with it then I would say don't do it unless they are ported. The downside to ported 243's is that they cost about as much as a good aftermarket head.

Sorry it took me so long to see this. My first guess after reading your description was the forward sprag. In first gear it is taking off with the overrun clutches applied and when it goes to second the overruns are off except with the shifter in 3. Something must be causing this thing to be eating forward sprags. I know it is making big power, but there are alot of trucks out there making as much or more power using 65E's also. There may be an end play issue going on or issue with the feed hole at the input drum. You may also want to check with him to make sure it isn't hitting the rev limiter on the shifts.

He's right. That is a sign of the 3-4 clutch set on it's way out. At least it is giving you some warning to get you enough time to collect parts and make decisions.

Give me a call when you get some time and I'll see if I can be of help to you. Reduced engine power is usually pretty easy to figure out since only certain codes can cause it. Zippy 702-406-0333 or 231-638-1981 Hours betwen 9am and 9pm Pacific time zone.

How much timing do you have in your idle spark table in the points in which you are idling? My guess would be that you have too high of a base setting for the idle timing.

One of my friends pulled this stuff off of his Corvette and I told him I'd post it up for him. Nitrous kit and stuff from Nitrous Outlet Nitrous Outlet 3 bolt kit: $550 (including 1 bottle, wiring, Nitrous braded line, solenoids, plate, jets, etc.) Nitrous Outlet window switch $125 Nitrous Outlet 860 bottle heater $200 (this is the type with the heater built into the bottle bracket) Nitrous Outlet switch panel $45 Lingenfelter timing retard box. $225 Call me for questions or pictures. 231-638-1981 or 702-406-0333