zippy

Fotunatly to replace that gasket you won't have to pull it apart as far to get a new one in there. I wouldn't recommend any sealer in there with it though. When it comes to gaskets you either use sealer or gasket, but not both. When gaskets companies want sealer on the gasket it'll come with it impregnated into the gasket or with special instructions on a specific location such as on the oil pan corners for the engine itself where a gap may be present due to tolerances. Make sure to use Dexron 3 in the transfercase also and not AutoTrak fluid.

If your truck is stock except for a CAI, the canned tune you are looking for is the stock one in it. There are too many hack tuners on that site to use someone else's tune to start with.

I think after this post is up for a while some others will start chiming in with the same problem. I will say that his truck still drives and the converter still locks so if you weren't looking into it most people would never even notice. On the same hand when you pay that much for a torque converter it should be quite a bit closer to the stall you are looking for than this. I have had a rather large number of guys with this same complaint using a Circle D. Another guy on this site had one that was supposed to be a 2600-2800 for his 4L80E truck and was flash stalling to 3800-4000 instead. It almost seems that if it isn't naturally asperated they are always too high. Most people also won't notice because a higher stalling converter just turns in better track times making the product look better when it is actually just turning in a better time because the stall is higher than asked for. I recommend that everyone when they get a new stall no matter what the brand is check to see where the new converter is stalling to. Once your truck is up to making the power that it should post up the stall speed of your current converter Shawn. I'm not taking a poke at you at all, but more in interest in what yours is doing because you do have the parts to be in the mid 11's on boost alone in the 12psi range. At that level of torque output I'm interested in where your stall goes to. What are you seeing currently on the footbrake?

You may just have the transmission in limp mode which makes it use 3rd gear only in forward gears. That would force you to use alot of throttle to make the truck move. Don't be too nervous until you actually get the truck tuned. The leak however isn't cool, that will take the fun out of the swap.

To help you out in this bit of info that you have posted. This code will not come up because the sensor has picked up a knock noise. The knock sensor is designed to pick up knock so the pcm would just see knock from the sensor as it doing it's job. This code is caused commonly by the sensor getting wet as you are just finding out. You could just replace the one setting the code or go all in and replace both sensors as well as the harness. What you will really notice is that until you replace it the truck will be quite a bit slower at wide open because with this code the pcm sets the max retard to be in anytime you are in power enrichment.

The best choices for budget injectors are the 5.3L flex fuel injectors, 8.1L standard and 8.1L marine injectors. The 8.1L standard and 8.1L marine injectors use the same connector, but of the 2 I preferr the 8.1L standard injectors with the only reason being the correct injector data is all available for them. The marine 8.1L injectors work very well, but all of the correct data has not been found for them that I know of. I've been able to develop a decent set of tables for them over the years, but exact factory tables make it nice.

The one thing I enjoy most on this site are the parrot's. One person uses a cam and then posts that he likes it and 100 others will pick that same cam based on "research". At one time the 212/218 Comp Cam was the popular cam, then it was the 222/224 cam, GT2-3 for the blower guys, 228r later on, etc, etc, etc. The other funny thing with the same subject is how many give technical answers to posts and yet are only repeating information that they read from other posts. I wouldn't recommend a 228r for this truck for example since he doesn't want to change the converter or at least doesn't want alot of stall. I would recommend a cam no bigger than something like the 222/224 from Comp or the Trick Flow 220/224. Both of those really should have a converter upgrade, but at that size you could do a VJCX converter which can be had for a couple hundred dollars and will drive alot like stock yet. Comp also has a cam on the LSR grind that will work which is a 219/227 and will make more torque than both of the others. I would still do the converter swap though to really enjoy the cam swap more. The lift on the 222/224 is in the .56 range and can be ran with LS6 springs. They have a decently long life and should be changed about once every 100k or so, but will keep spring pressure down enough to help valve seat life as well as cam bearings. The Trick Flow cam is in the .58 lift range and should be ran with either 918 style spring or dual spring. The 918 springs have had a rough life with a poor reputation of breaking which is why the dual springs have come to be so popular. The beehive style spring makes more power by design and has less pressure put on the cam bearings making them a more popular choice for something more on the daily driver side of things. The LSR grind is well over .600 lift and really should be ran with a dual spring for longer life of the spring and protection of piston to valve contact in case of spring breakage. The dual springs will beat up the valvetrain a bit more and shorten cam bearing life a bit, but for big lift they are the way to go. As for the topic of headers, use what you have. Shorty headers do not make more torque than long tube headers in no way shape or form. Shorty headers designed properly will gain over manifolds, but will never make more hp or torque than a long tube header. If the heads are replaced on this LQ9 I would recommend going with a 243 casting to get the compression up. The compression raise will help the torque, hp, fuel milage, and smoothness of the idle. You will also need to change the injectors. The stock injectors from your truck will not be big enough.

With the codes you are getting it looks like you have a communication issue between the TAC module and the PCM. Check for power and ground issue's there as well as check the connector at the TAC module to make sure there is no issue with the pin's at the connector.

As much as I do love the Silverado's and the Silverado SS trucks, they wouldn't have had any place on a list like that. The Silverado SS wasn't a true sport truck. In typical fashion from GM they simply built a truck using parts already on the shelf to make an up-level model of what was already available. The 454SS was a C1500 using an parts that were for the most part readily available on other models and all put into one. The S10 Extreme was basicly a truck with all of the looks and handling of a sport truck, but with again no special drivetrain to make it match the look. The Silverado SS was unfortunatly the same way. They simply used front and rear diff's already available on the 5.3L trucks, transmission from the Denali/Escalade trucks, and engine from the Escalade. Other than using an AWD system on a vehicle already too heavy and under-powered to even need it in the first place the only special items on the SSS were appearance items. What they did create however though was the ideal truck for being modified. The differentials are plenty strong for taking the power in AWD form. The 4.10 gear was just enough gear with the rather tall tires used on the "Sport truck" (same height tire as used on the Z71) to work well with mods and still drive well. The 4L65E is a seriously good piece and has proven itself to be so. There was a a time when our top 15 trucks were in the 12's or faster and 11 of them were using the stock trans with shift kit and converter change only. The LQ9 engine was the biggest torque producing engine GM had at the time that wasn't a big block or diesel and with that much weight it needed it. What all of the parts made for was the absolute perfect application for the MP112 Radix Supercharger which honestly is how the Silverado SS should have been built or at least had an option to select for. When the SSS came out there was no better match for a part on a vehicle than the Radix on an SSS. All of that aside however a Silverado that averaged a 15.3 in the quarter isn't likely to make the list for a quick pickup. The regular cab 5.3 truck in that time frame was actually quicker in the quarter than the Super Sport model of itself. The new body style with the aluminum block 6.0L's and 6.2L's are also capable of 14's completely stock. If GM builds another Silverado SS with any thoughts leaning the way of that Cheyenne truck that they had on display at SEMA it will be the first time since the Syclone that GM built a truck truely with performance as it's number one point.

Honestly if your tuner wants you to do that in my opinion that is just lazy. Just wire the trans the way GM built it to be and change the calibration to an 80E calibration. Most of the people I've helped that have done that relay mod have ended up with problems down the road from it. Not everyone has of course, but more than should be for sure. On the other hand those who do the stock style wiring with a correct calibration don't have to worry about that problem. HPT has been adding gear ratio's in there now, but it is not available yet in all of the OS's to be changed. The ability to keep the tcc locked when off the throttle is in there in most all of them now. I'm not saying that it won't work, just that it doesn't seem worth the difference in effort to not do it as it would have came from the factory. I do agree with Reynaldo that it'll work though.

You may have already bought it, but there was a time when the 2300 was only $500 more than the 1900 and it is quite a bit more blower to start with. Not only will it run lower IAT's to make the same boost level, but leaves alot more room to grow. Even better is down the road if you ever sell the blower a 2300 holds it's value considerably better than the 1900. The 2300 will work on anything from a 4.8L to a 7.0L and be fine with it. The 1900 becomes small once you begin to modify even a 6.0L. People have made big dyno numbers with the 1900, but they don't translate when taken to the track because they are out of their efficiency range. One local guy here for example made over 700WHP with a 1900 and ran 12's in his 4000lb car with it. When it comes to superchargers it's like buying the truck itself. Don't buy the truck with a 4.8L and then modify it when you could have bought a 6.0L to start with. The bigger blower gives lower IAT's, more room to grow, way higher resale value, and more power boost for boost than the small blower.

Make sure if you buy a Magnacharger kit that it has the CARB legal stickers and all items to match or it isn't going to do any good. It's a shame they never paid to get the TVS2300 kits for the older trucks to pass for CARB as that would be your best option. Edelbrock does have a TVS2300 kit listed as CARB legal though and may be worth checking into. On the Whipple side of things there are two sides of that. They were the first.... and the worst. Fixing the fueling issue by adding injectors to the system or adding in an FMU is not how supercharger kits should have been sold. The early kits also had no intercooler and likely wouldn't have later on if Magnacharger hadn't released their product that way. The Whipple is just now catching up in technology that Magnacharger/Eaton has been making work for quite some time. The tuning that comes with a Magnacharger isn't great, but Whipple tuning included in the kit is much worse. The intercooler technology has been stepped up quite a bit in recent time, but really needs to be. A screw type blower such as the Whipple and Kenne Bell is designed to make boost and not move air. The Eaton simply forces air into the motor and boost is a biproduct of the pressure it takes to move that much air into the motor. The Whipple and Kenne Bell design creates boost like an air compressor and then moves it to the cylinders. This does make them more efficient at higher boost levels than the Eaton design, but at cruising speeds with low airflow the efficiency goes down even with the bypass open. This show's itself when you read the IAT's produced by each blower system at cruising speeds. The Magnacharger system is a tried and true very proven system and outsold the Whipple hands down for years and will continue to do so. If you want to only use the vehicle for racing then I would pick the Whipple over the Magnacharger. It is better at higher boost levels and has alot larger range in size. If you want a kit that pretty well has the bugs worked out of it and still makes impressive power go with the Magnacharger. If you'd like to discuss your product on here more Dustin feel free. Just keep in mind Whipple is an uphill battle because of their past. They were the first and often times only for certain things, but that doesn't mean those first and only's were done right.

If the 60E has any decent parts in it and has a good cooler it should be fine. The 3.06 first gear in the 60E make it a decent crawler as long as the diff's and t-case have gearing to back your 42's. I would assume you're up in the 5.38 range for gear ratio?

This post and it's replies are quite surprising. Good to see you probably have the issue fixed. Hopefully you went with a bit over stock on the converter to work with the cam better. The high performance solenoids is confusing because all a solenoid does is just electronically stop and start the flow of fluid. Most high dollar trans builds use stock AC Delco replacements. This isn't a shot at you Merc, this is just telling you that if someone sold you performance solenoids they are likely stock replacements in AC Declo or Borg Warner. Here is some info on why it didn't become noticable in 3rd gear. The lockup in the converter works in 3rd and 4th. It is rare to see anyone tune a pcm and turn the tcc lockup off in 3rd. The reason he wouldn't have felt it do it in 3rd gear is simply that the extra rpm and gear difference takes the load off and allows the converter to lock.

I think I still have 2 or 3 of these myself. I sold 50 or something like that a couple years ago so others could have them to enjoy. I'd love to make a copy of it, but that would be technically a copyright issue I would think. They were a very limited production poster and most dealers that had them just tore them down when they got bored of them being up. As Bob mentioned they were available to us directly from the Silverado brand manager who came to my even many years ago. They are a very cool collectors item.

Shadow Sniper had made some adapters to make the water pump work for the truck setup from memory. You should send him a pm on it. As for the oil pan you could check to see if the oil pan from the new Camaro or G8 would clear the front diff. They hold a considerable amount more oil and still have the quality of it being a factory part. I would recommend an auxillary front mount oil cooler to the system if you were looking to improve the oiling system. That would be a sure improvement for summer running with strong valve springs. Have you looked into piston squirters also?

I recommend the TR6 myself. The 5 heat range is quite sensitive in hot weather to detonation if you only have 91 octane fuel at your access. You'll get away with a stronger timing table running a 6 than you will the hotter 5.

The transmission likely lost it's compensation value's when you replaced the battery. As the transmission wears the shift times will get slower and the pcm will simply add a touch of pressure in to compensate and get the transmission shifting back to the pre-selected shift times. If you don't feel it returning to where it was before you likely will need to look into a refresh of the trans. I certainly would not go backward to the old 4L60. The 4L60E is a much better trans than the 4L60 based on a stronger case, larger input shaft, programable shift points, pressure, self learning system, etc. As much as the 60E gets bashed it is a great transmission if built and programmed correctly.

You are way over-complicating the spline issue. Just look for a transfercase that was factory behind a 60/65/70E type of transmission and it should be compatible. The 149 is a great unit as long as it is a low mileage unit. The 149 uses a viscous coupler limited slip for the center differential and under higher milage they lose their locking ability. The best option if you can find one would be the TBSS transfercase because they use a Torsen limited slip in the center differential which has a much longer life and front/rear locking. From memory both can be ran by simply using the speed sensor outputs. Most Escalades use an open unit for the center differential and use the Stabilitrac system to control power transfer which means their transfercase is designed to send power to the easiest tire to spin and the computer transfers the power by applying the brakes to that spinning wheel. The TBSS and SSS transfercase utilize a limited slip center diff to simply send power to the driveshaft with more traction instead of less.

Good to see the crank learn fixed the missfire problem. I run into that frequently showing a false missfire condition and have seen people spend huge amounts of money to fix what should have been handled in the beginning. I tell every customer that I send a pcm to that they need to do a crank learn. Anytime you change computers, swap your camshaft, change timing chain, or pull the motor apart a crank learn needs to be done. I know my post sounded like me being a dick, but the point I was making is that what you had there didn't sound like it was the fix. Too many people on here read a post like this and will start not only thinking that is the fix for theirs as well, but also start answering other posts as if they know what they are talking about saying x....x....x... is the fix because they read it somewhere else. At one time we had a transmission builder on here giving transmission advice on a daily basis and yet couldn't get his own to hold up in a 14 second truck. Once I seen you had a modified pcm it only seemed logical that a crank learn likely wasn't done. It's a shame your tuner didn't tell you that when you bought the pcm and even more the dealer didn't try that as a fix. Good to see Art and Reynaldo stepped up and helped you out. They are two of the nicer guys on this site with some knowledge to add to the mix.

I'll add my thoughts on what I am reading here. First of all to say it runs fine on 87 has no point or bearing on the issue. Do you think putting in 87 is going to make it missfire or not start at all? The computer will pull the timing as it is designed, but if the computer is pulling timing to make it run on 87 that means it is seeing knock first to pull the timing. There is no reason with a 10:1 compression engine to run it on 87 octane. As for the two tune thing that is another pointless venture. Wide open in the tuning has absolultely nothing to do with idle or part throttle. If the tune is done correctly you'll get excellent milage as well as get the best performance it will give you on the fuel you run. A properly tuned wide open doesn't take more fuel to be right. The parts you chose to make the power however will have an effect on fuel milage as well as driving style. Other than that make sure your tuner dials the calibration in as close as possible and keeps your part throttle shift points down as well as TCC lock up points.

Wow, you had me there for a minute on that. So you're saying you found it, but haven't fixed it yet to prove that it is the actual cause for the random miss fire. I hope they've tried the stuff like crank learn and checking the cats first. It is a pretty common thing for air to get to the cylinders... That's how they work. I've never seen a head gasket replacement get rid of what they are describing as likely a vacuum leak. Ask them for a guarentee that the head gaskets will fix the problem.

There is a whole list of issue's here to shoot after. The P0101, P0172, and P0175 are the first things you need to chase. Why you are concerned about the transmission when you have codes like that doesn't make any sense to me. A P0101 code will disable the maf when it is set and if that happens you are in danger of issue's since your truck is on a 1 bar tune. The maf must stay working to keep things running correcctly on a vehicle with a blower and only a 1 bar map sensor. The maf sensor code alone will put the trans into full line pressure mode when P0101 is set and cause transmission issue's. As for surging at a cruise you that can be one of many things, but the first thing to look at is what converter you are running. I have your settings for the converter for a stock woven type converter, but if it is anything other than that changes need to be made to the tune for other clutch linings. Basicly before you get too concerned with your transmission, fix whatever is causing those codes to set. When it comes to transmissions you'll know that it's going when you lose a gear or two.

On an 03' you can get away with around a 216/220 or so, but you'll be on the edge. Those with a returnless system such as 04' and up need injectors sooner since they have around 52psi at full throttle where as you should be 58psi at full throttle.

The Fast will be a good mod, but I would try to stray from the 87mm TBSS throttle body. That throttle body has an issue that you will find showing up as you modify with sucking itself shut and going into reduced power. Make sure to get the evap solenoid and X-Link and you'll be fine.