zippy

When you run it without the cam sensor the engine will not run in sequential injection mode and coils are fired in waste spark mode. You could just add in the wiring and change the O.S. to run it since there was VVT back then on the 6.0L truck. If you want it to run correct you should change the cam and front cover to get rid of the VVT.

GMPP tray. I'll post up the part number in a few and a picture tomorrow. I have a 417 LSA block engine and 416 LS3 block at work with that tray on it. I've used quite a few of them, very nice to have. If you ever need odd part numbers I have a huge list in the general section of this site.

Assuming you have a few other mods it wouldn't be a big reach for lean codes to show up from a CAI install. Quite commonly the maf calibration will be a considerable amount off with the addition of a CAI. This can lead to lean codes with anything else changing in the system.

I've never seen a 95mm throttle body for an LS3, but someone may make one. As for the X-Link the whole point of it's design was to get the car throttle bodies to work in trucks. The LS3 throttle body is wired the same as the 87mm truck throttle body. The can be a pain in the ass to tune on a truck, but will work with a good X-Link.

You are likely going to have to switch to this style of o'ring for the injectors to get them to seal on the manifold side. Standard injectors will need a different o'ring to seal in that injector hole. http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=L700025305&Category_Code=C77&Store_Code=LPE

Stepping up to the 408 will be a great thing for you. The 4" stroke adds alot of torque and makes it well worth it. I wouldn't go any bigger on camshaft though. My question on the oil pump relates to the pickup tube. The o'ring on the pickup tube can create problems that can kill the engine if it is re-used at all. If you even put it together and take it back apart again without ever firing the engine, replace it. If you do anything other than install it and tighten down the pickup tube bolt replace it. When you go to the 408 make sure to use the windage tray for the 4" stroke so that you don't have to worry about oil pan pickup height or rods touching the tray. With the 4" stroke windage tray everything bolts up and clears short of a small bit of trimming on the arm for the pickup tube a touch.

That is rediculous.. I would however like to do an aluminum 5.7L or 5.3L block and make into a coffee table like the V12 Jaguar block used on Top Gear. I would do that or one of the plastic blocks with it dressed to look like a real engine.

Fortunatly it will not be needed. I do not add line pressure to the tune so even if yours is built you will be fine. The shift timing won't need to be changed either. If you have the same converter it will be fine. The converter I mentioned is simply a bit higher stall and other than a small difference in city fuel milage that would be the only change there. A bit higher than stock is very nice to have with a Procharger.

You deffinitly don't need it in the front diff because as said it is an open diff. If anything look into adding a diff cooler if you do alot of highway driving. As for the rear the Gov-Lock uses no additive and if you add it in the mix it can cause the system to stay locked when it should be releasing.

You should do the VJCX converter while you have it out. It would be a great upgrade for a very small price difference.

The 4.10 gear can handle it with no problem I'm not sure why you would think it couldn't handle it. The 4.10 gear with stock tire height will get you to around 128 or so before you want to it to shift to 4th with a stock cam. With a truck running a bigger cam you should have no problem getting 140 or so out of it with the converter locked and still in 3rd gear. I've been over 140 in an SSS in 4th and they do have a bit of a light feel to them. In search for top speed the 4.10 gear is fine considering how tall the tires are on the SSS.

Most of your smooth shifting is from the stall converter. From your logs the transmission is shifting very quick just as a normal one with a shift kit would. Down the road once you end up getting the converter tightened up your transmission will have alot more of a firm shift feel. Some of the guys on here with higher stall converters such as you have might step in to also point out the same thing. Because of the stall speed your converter isn't even beginning to tighten up until well past 3300rpm which would make any shift below about 4000rpm feel soft because the converter is still in the stall range and absorbing the hit.

I think you will be happy with the 80E eventually. Trust me that you will know when it is slipping. The 80E is supposed to ease your mind in the transmission and this one has made you more nervous than a teenager with a pregnancy test. Just calm down and know that you have a good converter and well built transmission. Other than the converter stalling a bit higher than desired you should be fine. It is a trans made to handle big power so it will be agressive with the shifts and lockup's as well as not instant to respond to demand. As your power goes up there are a few other issue's that may arise, but none that will be a reliability issue. The shame of it is that as I said this swap is supposed to ease your mind and that is part of the reason that I would have recommended a heavily built 65E. There are plenty of horror stories on here and plenty of people using the wrong builders, wrong parts, and wrong tuners. For quite a while we had a member on here who became the transmission guru to many people and with a 14 second SSS had went through 7 transmissions. The point there is because someone has built one or two or know's a bit about the parts in them doesn't make them the person to go to for knowledge. Even the guy who built the converter couldn't identify that your jerking and constant unlock/lock issue at around 45 mph was because of how you drove in the log. Knowing how to read the log should have made that obvious. A minor change to the tune made it easier to match your driving style, but there was nothing wrong with the tune or the converter. Like many things when it comes to something like this the trans tuning needs to be tailored to how you want your truck to drive and I'm happy to help with that. All of that aside enjoy what you bought and take ease of the swap meant to ease your mind.

There are a large number of fast trucks out there with 65E's in them when they have the right builder and right tuner. Both go hand in hand. He went to the 80E from what I have gathered not from knowledge of either trans or even because he broke his 65E, but because alot of people told him it was the way to go. Mostly people who have no clue what they are even talking about in the first place let alone any that have knowledge in transmissions. This site has grown into a site of people answering posts with the same answer that they read somewhere else or something they heard from somewhere with none of their own knowledge to back it up. My point to him is that over and over and over he has assumed there is something wrong with the transmission or the converter. This isn't a one time thing. If you have a problem with the trans, you will know it without a doubt. It will either not shift at all or badly slip all the time. If you have a problem with the converter you will know it because it will either never lock, never unlock, or come apart and send the trans temps to the moon. Whether or not you have a blower on the truck doesn't change the point. You chose an 80E and although you have little knowledge of it you are still dealing with an automatic transmission. When there is a problem with them you will know without question.

What you are seeing is the converter unlocking first which is where the rpm shoots up to 3100ish rpm and then the next thing you see is the actual downshift. The 4L80E trans full of larger heavier internals and isn't as instant reacting as a smaller 65E. The time between the throttle showing wide open and the downshift occuring is roughly .2 of a second (frame 1357 to frame 1359). Since the day you put this transmission in there you have on an almost daily basis assumed it is slipping or that there is a major problem with the torque converter. The truck is a slug with this trans and the power level you are at and that is what you should have expected. Look at the difference between the GMC Denali with the LQ4 and a 2500 non HD in quarter mile times. The stock C3 or Denali with LQ4 with the 65E was good for around a low 15 in the quarter. A 2500 series truck with the same engine and body configuration is about 1.5-2 seconds slower in the quarter mile. The differential is a bit bigger, but that really isn't the difference. The thing that slows it down is the 80E. If you hate this 80E so much why keep it in there???

Are you doing a converter at the same time?

Send me your tune and I'll put them in for you. [email protected] I can understand being frustrated with the fan issue, but there are plenty of options to get it done. When you bought the harness from them was it with the agreement that they would supply the calibration info?

The codes that you're getting are because of the cam. Going by the cam size I am a bit confused. A cam that big is pretty much for someone looking to spend most of their time racing the truck and with a 4000 stall or more. Usually that kind of thing is for the guy with alot of experience in this. That screeching noise that you heard there isn't good. If you get the engine warm again I bet it will come back. That noise is commonly a main bearing working on a lock-up. I would look some stuff over to make sure you have a proper diagnosis, but you may be looking into a 6.7L replacement. With a cam that big who ever has been helping you should be willing to diagnose it for you. After reading this one more time I'm adding an edit. Did you replace the oil pump when you did the cam swap? It is very commonly done and I'm wondering this only because of the o'ring at the pickup tube could have been what caused this to happen.

Normal rpm drop for even a top quality converter is 1200rpm or just over especially with the big gearing gap with the 65E trans. You will lose alot of mph if the converter is too loose. On the other hand I'm not sure if I am reading this right or not. If I am reading this right it sounds like you don't race very far because a shift into second at 4000 rpm not only shouldn't bog the motor, but should have plenty of distance to recover. Normally land speed runs go well into third and fourth gear so maybe it is just how I'm reading it. What you should have been concerned with isn't the stall converter is the tuning. An LQ9 that can't pull it's way out of 4000rpm has something wrong with it. Even with a mild cam it should be right near torque peak and have no problem with it. On a side note, congrats big time in what you are doing and have accomplished. You have picked the right vehicle to race like that. Plenty of metal around you and AWD to keep you safe.

Looks like the truck is doing it's job of being consistant at least. When it comes to very tall gearing that only works well with big torque. Once you get the 2300 on there the truck will jump off the line and the tall gearing will actuall work for you instead of against you. The converter will be too loose, but worry about that when it happens. Right now the higher stall is helping. Brian, I thought you only used the nitrous once?

I tried to post on here a while back and the site locked up just as I finished. To go with what Chris from Circle D said is that the LS motors like the extra rpm and he is right. This is why most people don't complain or never notice when they have a converter too loose. They run them and enjoy the harder launch from the higher stall and if it still locks and drives ok then who cares. Yank gets by using this theory and has for years. He sells converters that aren't custom to your build. If you buy a Yank 3000 and put it behind an LQ9 with a Radix on it you now have a Yank 3600 or so and still call it a 3000. Alot of people might think I am knocking at Chris when I will say to anyone he makes the effort to make the customer happy. His product though I have ran into an issue with when it comes to trucks many times. Most trucks I have seen with a Circle D have a converter stalling much higher than desired. Does that mean there is a quality issue with his product, no. That simply means he tends to guess wrong with the weight and torque difference in trucks or does it on purpose because hell it makes his product look better when the customer cuts a better 60' time. Precision used to hit the Vigilante about 400rpm shy of what you asked for on a regular basis. This happens in the world of converters since it is a guessing game on what stator needs to be used. Shawn, I'll reply to what you have there. Your Circle D foot brake stalling to 3200 means it also is stalling too high. Stall speed is measured at full torque output. I am guessing you weren't able to brake stall it to full boost and hold it back. If you were getting 3200 and only 2psi or so as an example then at 13psi your stall speed would be around 3800. In the case of your truck it is hard to tell since the power was down. If I recall you went mid 12's with 13psi and a small shot of nitrous which should have been enough for mid to low 11's, not mid 12's. That isn't a shot at your truck it is only stating the capability of what you have built. Your TCI was about on par with their products. They have a good line for the older stuff and are miles off when it comes to the 60/65/70/80/85E converters they do not have a good product. I seriously have not found one person happy with a TCI purchase using an overdrive trans. As for your Hughes converter, now that is on par with normal (and I also do not like their products). An S10 is light enough without much braking power. Since stall speed one again is measured at full torque output a converter that will footbrake to 2500 (likely at around 30-50% throttle I would guess) should flash stall to around 2800-3000 range.

The stock LQ9 will handle in the 7200-7400 rpm range without an issue as long as you have a good valvetrain to go with it. As for your converter, if you are only dropping 200-300rpm on a wide open shift that converter is way too loose and inefficient as all hell. As for what shift point to use it does depend on what parts you have chosen for your setup. On the same hand though that should be a decision made by your tuner based upon his data found with your chosen mods.

I'll bite Danny, why not use LS7 lifters? They have been in every GM factory engine from 4.8L to 7.0L from 2006 on and have went through a few revisions. Maybe you can enlighten us on their problem. As for this truck with it's noise... Your noise if it is lifters should start to go away in a hurry if you have good oil pressure. The knocking noise you heard from your first post may not have been the rocker arm issue, you may have a different lower have issue. Something else to check is to do a part and tool count. When you open and engine it should be like a surgeon. You need to check every tool and part when you are done to make sure none are left in the motor. Another issue I've ran into from helping people over the phone is that some take the oil pump loose and end up creating a problem with the o'ring on the oil pump. You should also check over your rocker arms to make sure you haven't had a needle bearing or two fall out of one.

If you have a service manual that says to use AutoTrak it is either a poorly written manual or you aren't reading it correctly. The GM manual shows Dexron 3 for the manual shift transfercase's, AutoTrak for the transfercase's with auto 4wd option, Dexron 3 for electronic shift transfercase's without auto 4wd (such as 2500HD and 3500 series trucks), and Dexron 3 in the AWD transfercase's. The Dexron 3 was later replaced in transmission use by the Dexron 6 so from GM you can still purchase Dexron 3 in the form of Manual Transmission and Transfercase fluid. The only AWD cases that use AutoTrak is the small run of Astro van and T series trucks/utilies built with the clutch system used in the AutoTrak cases that only applies when the computer calculates the rear tires spinning. The AutoTrak fluid and Dex 3 are so close in chemical base that you will see no problem at all in running it in place of the Dex 3. The AutoTrak fluid is basicly a Dex3 with some special friction modifiers in it and blue dye. I learned all about this as I was working at the dealer when this fluid was developed and took the classes on it as well as the Dex 6. As for the leak, it sounds as if you may have a surface issue of it not being clean enough or it wasn't tightened without load on it. Another thing that can create a leak with it is if you use RTV on that gasket. I have had to fix a few that people have put RTV on that gasket during a trans swap and created a leak. If your two surfaces are clean and you tighten it well without load on it you should have no leaks. Make sure you don't have a leak on the case itself which can happen also.

Unfortunatly it sounds like you are chasing the problem with guesses. Try to diagnose the problem and ifx it once. I agree that from the sounds of things you may be a bit back on maintenance and that is a good thing to catch up on. On the other hand lets look at stuff that will cause a grinding noise. When it did make the noise were you driving slow, cruising, heavy throttle, turning, stopping, etc. These are all items that will lead to the diagnose for what the real problem is to keep you from spending money on stuff you may certainly not need,.