zippy

The important part is who you buy one through and what it is built based on. Don't try it with a 9.5" for example. Do a 10.5" with a really strong clutch and make sure the pcm tuning is spot on. With all of that correct you can tow heavy loads, just keep a light foot until the lockup has occured and use a big cooler.

Gains on a stock motor will be decent. That is a pretty big cam for a stock LQ9 so I would only recommend it if racing is your main goal. If you're just looking for a bit more power I would look to a much smaller cam. You will want a 3600 or higher converter along with a nice set of dual springs. Powerband will be around 3500-7000.

He has you there August. Before you go into the "you only need" speech you should remember that not all of the members on here are new at this. You can make an SSS run in the 11's N/A on a stock short block I have no doubt in that, but what you'll end up with is a truck that really is streetable, but not a street truck. You don't buy a truck with a top notch luxury package and then build it into something only meant to race which is part of the reason 11's N/A on stock cubes hasn't been done yet. Shadow Sniper has the parts to possibly touch a high 11 in perfect air and just may get there if the drive to do so isn't lost. He also has a bit more room for more mods yet. The cable drive trucks have it easier since they can use a 4bbl style throttle body which gains hp in the upper rpm which is where a drag truck/car runs. You have said already that your last time at the track was in the 14's which was very slow for your mods. Now we should believe that you have a handle on it and are ready for mid 12's??? Back to the magical V2 cam, where is the video of a truck with a "bit of mods" running an impressive number on motor alone?

Looking at your log there is a decent amount to gain.

I've seen that run before, but what does that have to do with what you were bringing up earlier?

The video didn't prove anything. There is a truck on here that went 11.00 on 22's and weighed in somewhere around 5800 or so at the time with an LS6 cam. That wouldn't make the LS6 cam anything special. Running 243's on an LQ9 bring compression to roughly 10.9 and if milled it'll be over 11:1 compression which brings a cam of that size into a useable range. Still rather big, but useable. Lets get down to the important part of this. What does that truck run on motor only? BTW, I'd like to see how that truck is 6,000lbs in race trim.

I recommend 75w90 in front and rear and both to be synthetic for sure. 75w140 is fine if you run in very high temps otherwise stick to 75w90. Royal Purple, Mobil 1, and Amsoil are all very good choices. Make sure to not use any additive in the rear diff as that can cause the clutches to stick together and not allow the diff to unlock. There is an actual bulletin from GM about that specific issue. For the transfercase simply use a Dexron 3 approved fluid either in synthetic or GM form. That is the recommended fluid from GM and the same I'd recommend myself. In GM form Dexron 3 is only sold as manual transmission and transfercase fluid though since Dexron 6 is now the fluid they sell as actual transmission fluid and yet isn't recommended in manual transmissions and transfercases. Don't bother with the Autotrac fluid from GM (blue stuff) either. You will be wasting money on that as it is designed for cases where the fluid contacts the clutch pack. The Silverado SS uses a viscous coupler which is a sealed unit and the transfercase fluid never gets into the viscous coupler unit. If it did that would mean the seal is broken and the unit is failing anyway. The transfercase fluid in the SSS is only there as a lubricant for the bearings and chain as well as there to keep it all cool.

You should be a ton faster on motor only and even more on the bottle. That isn't a shot at you or your truck, you have the parts to go much faster from what I've seen. You do have a rather big cam though which just goes to show that nitrous can fix a cam that doesn't work well. LOL, Did you really post that your setup really loves nitrous??? Find me one out there that doesn't work well with nitrous.

I see my post went a long way. Every time someone finds a cam they like from someone else's results like to make it a big deal. If I had a dollar for everytime I hear "that xxx cam makes big power, xxx made blah, blah, blah from it". Years back Matt Walls ran a 12.3 with a 150 shot that wasn't tuned in and a pcm that was far from a top notch tune. The cam he was running was a 212/218. Hell he even ran a 13.5 N/A with it using a TB converter. That is a good batch of results, but doesn't make it the ideal cam. I have a friend with a Vette I helped with his build and tuned the car running a 416 with TFS235's and Vortech blower. That made 918RWHP and 1064 with a 52 jet (which by the book is only a 100 shot). The cam is a 227/243. I wouldn't go and tell a bunch of others to use that cam because it may not be right for that application. To say a cam is good because this truck runs 11.xx with that cam and oh yeah it has spray is simply rediculous. Nitrous can fix many poor cam choices just as boost can. Even more many cam choices dyno very well and yet don't work well at the track because they simply aren't correct for the application. Cam choice must work together with the whole setup and if it doesn't you get the all talk no action cam. I've dyno'd 5.3's with much bigger cams that my truck has for example and have seen them make a whopping 6rwhp more with so much loss in low rpm torque that they only slow the truck down. As for your truck August, I'm with JC03SS post up a track time that backs up your claims. Show me a track time with the V2 that is impressive on motor only. Show us a track time with your truck that smokes the times others have ran with smaller cams. On the actual topic posted at hand I still stand by my post and this goes to many trucks. Do not buy an item for your truck at a good deal and then build the rest of your truck around it. Buy the parts for your truck that work with a realistic goal and leave the good deals that turn expensive to someone else.

Art is correct. The one important thing as for the measurement side of things is the pinion is alot longer so if you are looking to do this as a swap keep in mind that the driveshaft will need to be shorter.

If he's looking for a lightweight bed he just needs to find one of the ProTec beds. They are made of a composite plastic and were something like 50-100lbs lighter and yet stronger than a standard steel bed. It's a shame they didn't keep making them, but cost of production and lack of sales of that option eliminated it.

No. Not that either. A torquer V2 is just a the top of the range for a 6.0L with only 10:1 compression and yet still too much cam without modding the hell out of it. Brad ran a 12.8 with a 224/228 cam and still had some room to grow with that when he changed to the big cam, heads, and intake. The point is you don't buy a cam and then spend money building your truck around that cam.

If you use the vette filter you still don't have a vacuum regulated system which is part of the advantage of the 03' system. Do it right and buy an aftermarket regulator.

There is no "good deal" with that cam. Even if it were free you don't have the supporting mods to run it. A 6.0L would need upwards of 11:1 compression to have any benefit from a cam that big as well as a well built trans to handle shift points of around 7000rpm and that's just a small part of it. A cam that big would still be useless even with a 3600 stall in a truck that is 5300lbs. You'd need a converter of around a 4000 stall or higher. You would also need a much improved intake over stock or you'd have a huge restriction there once again making a cam that big nothing more than something you got cheap. It wouldn't even be there for the cool sound as many smaller cams would give you the same sound.

You should be alot higher than a 6000 shift point.

With the 243's you are roughly the same compression as the LS2. Make sure to run a TR6 or equivilant heat range plug if you only have 91 octane though. Why would you do the LS9 gasket though and take the loss in compression?

I got your pcm yesterday. Should have it handled before the end of the day. I know how you feel in getting in touch with me or anyone that busy. I recently as an example had to send a blower back to Magnacharger for a repair. It took 6 calls and each with a voice mail left that were never returned. I finally got someone else to give me an RGA and then surprise I got an e-mail and a call back after that from the guy I needed to talk to. That's kinda what I mean by you need me issue. My day goes on busy all day and if I miss your call/text/e-mail I'm still busy. By all means do call or try again just as I had to with that guy to get squeezed in line. He didn't need that blower sent back, I needed it sent back just like your pcm. I'm happy we got this taken care of.

Not sure if I have handled this one or not, but plain and simple if you want to get ahold of me call me. I'm not the one in need of your service. You want me, call me. I go through 40 or so calls a day and about the same in texts most days and once in a while I miss a call or text that doesn't get returned. Over the years I have become the tech support for 30 or so shops and I can't tell you how many different people. Not only am I handling customers all day I handle tech support all day. I have 2 phones because of this. For those of you who want to talk to me, call. If you don't get me to answer, wait a bit and call again. Do not call directly back to back though unless it is a true emergency.

It has been quite a while since I've ordered a GM version, but that does sound correct. If you want to make sure call your local dealer that you get your GM parts from and give them a vin for an 03' Trailblazer with the 4.2 I6. You can find the vin easily by searching ebay for that specific type of vehicle.

I'm reading some problem people on this post for sure. If someone buys a truck and later wants to sell it he doesn't need permission to do so. I don't see anywhere in that ad where it says he built the truck himself. Brian got his money when he sold it and that is all that matters. I've seen many trucks listed for way too much, but hell that's where you start because by chance you may find someone willing to pay it. It's the high price one's that keep all of the one's you guys have worth anything to start with. As for the condition it's in once again, it's not your truck. Every truck on here that was bought brand new was in brand new perfect condition when it was bought and many look like shit now. Brian loved his truck so much that he sold it so why would he be all up in arms that the next guy has actually been driving the truck and it isn't as clean. Last I knew Brian had a couple of Camaro's that are his pride and joy and he'll keep those clean. I would expect more from you guys than to be bashing a guy for advertising his truck for sale. The Magnacharger thing is worth a joke over, but that's about it.

I'll be impressed if it sells. There was a time years ago when those things had major value. There was one that sold for over 100k at one time, but like baseball card collections they haven't been able to hold their value as well.

Good question... I have no idea what you did wrong, but if it happened several times as you said I'd say you have a problem. I've never seen or heard of a maf coming apart from airflow or boost including setups pushing well over 1000rwhp.

I've had it posted in another area also, but this list is certainly important for finding numbers for a build. There isn't much there you need for doing a build. For any part number requests let me know and I'll see what I can do. On the same hand if one of you buy something and you are 100% sure on the part desired and part number being correct post it up in here.

If you blew a maf into pieces you are doing something wrong. I've put over 1000RWHP of air through them. When it comes to the question at hand you are ok to around 450RWHP and at around 500RWHP you have made it to the limit. Somewhere past 10k hz the maf reading becomes very inconsistant and fueling will not be as consistant as a result. Once you get past 67lb/min level you have will have very inconsistant fueling since the pcm is at it's limit of seeing incoming airflow on the maf side. There is nothing wrong with a 2 bar tune if it is done properly. If you have a good set of injectors, proper fuel pressure, and a proper tuner you will have absolutely no problem running in SD mode. The advantage in SD mode with a boosted vehicle is that it allows the pcm to see boost. Without this the pcm will never see any boost and in the case of exceeding the 67.725lb/min number the pcm will never know more airflow is coming in without it. In 2 bar mode you will be able to chose the exact desired afr for the boost and rpm level and actually allow the pcm to calculate airflow numbers well past the maf's limit. To give you an idea on drivability I have my Tahoe tuned in SD 1 bar mode and it has been everywhere that people would tell you is a problem. I have had it from single digit weather to 120 degree weather and from below see level to over 11000ft altitude as well as pulling a trailer from Michigan to LV Nevada, Vegas to Phoenix, and back to Vegas all through the mountains. With proper tuning work speed density will run and drive just fine. You must choose a good injector and have good consistant fuel pressure as well. I would say I've done over 1000 or so cars and trucks in SD mode.

LS1/LS6 Bare block: 12561166 LQ4/LQ9 Bare block: 12572808 LS2 Bare block: 12602691 L92/LS3 Bare block: 12623967 LSA Bare block: 12623968 LS9 Bare block: 12623969 LS7 Bare block: 19213580 LS7 Bare block (solid main bulkheads): 25534427 C5R Bare block: 12480030 LSX Bare block: 19260093 LSX Bare block (tall deck): 19244059 LS6 Cylinder head assembly: 12564824 LS6 Cylinder head assembly (CNC-Ported): 88958665 LS6 Cylinder head assembly (Race CNC-Ported): 88958622 LS2 Cylinder head assembly: 12576063 LS2 Cylinder head assembly (CNC-Ported): 88958765 L76/L92 Cylinder head assembly: 12629064 L76/L92 Cylinder head assembly (CNC-Ported): 88958698 LS3 Cylinder head assembly: 12629063 LS3 Cylinder head assembly (CNC-Ported): 88958758 Gen III/IV Rocker arm assembly: 10214664 Gen IV Rocker arm assembly (intake side L76/L92/LS3): 12569167 97'-01' LS1 pair of head gaskets in a kit: 12498543 02'-04' LS1 pair of head gaskets in a kit: 12498544 97'-05' LS1/LS6 head gasket: 12589226 05' up LS2/L76 head gasket: 12589227 07' up LS3/L92 head gasket: 12610046 06' up LS7 head gasket: 12582179 Gen III/IV Cylinder head dowel: 12570326 98-04' Gen III SB head bolt kit (enough for one head): 12498545 04'-12' Gen III/IV SB head bolt kit (enough for one head): 17800568 LS1 cylinder head gasket and bolt kit (F-body 2002): 12499217 LS1/LS6 cylinder head gasket and bolt kit (2002-2004 Corvette): 12499218 Gen III/IV Cam retainer plate (tapered bolt style): 12589016 Gen III/IV Cam retainer plate bolts (tapered bolt style): 11561455 Gen III lifter kit (same as used in LS2/LS7): 12499225 Gen III Racing lifter kit: 88958689 Gen III/IV Lifter guide kit: 12595365 Gen III/IV lifter guide bolts: 12551163 Gen III camshaft installation kit (gaskets and crank bolt): 12499228 Gen III/IV camshaft sprocket (1x): 12576407 Gen IV camshaft sprocket (4x): 12586481 Gen III/IV camshaft sprocket bolts (3 bolt style): 12556127 Gen III/IV crankshaft sprocket (wet sump type): 12556582 Gen IV crankshaft sprocket (factory dry sump type): 12581278 Gen III/IV timing chain: 12646386 Gen III/IV timing cover gasket: 12633904 Gen III/IV water pump gasket: 12630223 Gen III/IV exhaust gasket: 12617944 Gen IV Intake Gasket set (truck style rectangle port): 19207929 Gen IV Intake Gasket set (car style rectangle port): 19256623 Gen III/IV Valve Cover Bolt (includes seal): 12577215 Gen III/IV Valve Cover Gasket: 12637683 L76 Intake manifold kit (car style): 12590123 LS3 Intake manifold kit (car style): 12638197 LSx Windage Tray for 3.75 stroke: 19244050 LSx Windage Tray for 4.00 stroke: 19244049 LSx Windage Tray for 4.125 stroke : 19202609 LSx Windage Tray for 4.200 stroke : 19244051 LS7 4.00 stroke crankshaft: 12611649 LSx 4.125" stroke crankshaft (4340 forging, 58x reluctor, 8 bolt flexplate flange): 19244018 LSx Crankshaft reclutor 24x: 12559353 Gen III/IV main bearing cap side bolts: 12556127 Gen III/IV Oil pump to block bolts: 11515758 Gen III High volume oil pump kit: 17801830 Gen III Exhaust header flanges: 12480130 2 Bar map to fit a Gen III: 12580698 which has been superseded to 12615136 3 bar map to fit a Gen IV: 12592525 Timing Cover Gen III style: 12561243 Timing Cover Gen IV style: 12633906 Timing Cover Gen IV style (with VVT): 12594939 Gen III/IV map sensor seal (orange): 16194007 LS7 Crate engine: 17802397 LS6 Valve spring kit: 12499224 Gen III bare block completion kit: 19153789 Engine block plug (small threaded plug for side of block): 11588949 Engine block plug (large threaded plug for side of block): 12561663 Engine block plug (white dumbell looking plug): 12573460 Mobil 1 oil cap: 12577268 Oil Pan gasket: 12612350 Oil Pan gasket (dry sump engines): 12612351 Oil Pan block off plate gasket: 12611384 Gen III/IV crankshaft balancer bolt (wet sump oil system): 12557840 Gen IV crankshaft balancer bolt (dry sump oil system): 11570163 Gen III/IV crankshaft keyway: 12561513 Gen III/IV crankshaft keyway (front key for crankshafts with key for balancer): 106751 Cometic 4.030" bore .040" thickness: H1295SP5040S Melling oil pump: 10295 (recommended for stock stroke applications) Melling oil pump: 10296 (recommended for 4" stroke and longer applications) 4.10 Gear set for 10 bolt 8.6": 12479056 4.10 Gear set for 14 bolt 9.5": 12471288 4.56 Gear set for 14 bolt 9.5": 12471289 4L80/85E Dipstick: 15183801 4L80/85E Dipstick tube: 15198439 4L80/85E Shift cable bracket at transmission: 15013290 Gen III/IV to Gen I/II transmission install kit. 19154766 4L60/65/70/80/85E Toque converter bolt: 11589040 8.6" Rear diff pinion seal: 26064028 Transfercase adapter gasket: 24245110