zippy

The driver side valve cover on the SS's don't have a pcv valve stock. The earlier one's had a fixed orifice valve which actually had no valve in it at all and the newer valve covers basically have that built into the valve cover. Since backfires are a thing of the past the need for a valve wasn't there anymore and the fixed orifice pcv became the way to go for a consistant amount of air coming in for the idle circuit. If boosted you need to make some changes. If you have the type with the removable piece simply order a pcv valve for a 2000 or so camaro and install it in place of the fixed orifice piece. Once in boost the valve will close and not allow boost into the crankcase where as stock it would just take boost from the intake and fill it up until it pushed the valve cover out. If you have a valve cover with the fixed piece you need to either add in an inline pcv valve (many are available) or replace the valve cover for a type to install a normal valve into. Make sure to check the passenger side also. The hose from the passenger side valve cover should go to the air intake side of the supercharger and not to the throttle body or intake manifold. Left stock this will also quickly fill the crankcase with pressure.

I have one, but I'll have to check with the wife to see if I can sell it. She bought it for me as a birthday gift many years ago. I've driven it around twice I think. Pretty cool though.

You should never pick a cam based on sound. At this point you only have a cold air intake and Magnaflow. That would normally direct you toward a small camshaft. You would still have some lope, but not one that will give you a racecar sound. If you want to do a more agressive camshaft you will want to purchase a torque converter and shift kit at minimum. A big cam with a stock converter makes for a truck that is only quicker from a roll and also will be a pain to get the idle correct. Headers will also make even a mild camshaft sound alot more agressive. You will want a set of headers if you do a big cam also since it makes the overlap of the cam work alot more for you.

It has been quite a while since I've been able to do much on here. The list needs alot of help so I'm going to be picking at it over the next few days to clean it up. There are quite a few that need to come off the list and should be plenty to be added or updated.

This is going to be one hell of a build. Almost the ultimate build if you were doing one without boost. A few bits of info for those who might have questions. Gerald has posted alot, but here is some from me. Block is an LS3 and brand new from GM. 4.075" bore (.010 over) 4" stroke crank 417 cubic inches Compression will be roughly 11.6:1 BLP piston oil squirter kit. PRC 265 LS7 Small Bore heads. These are a 6 bolt head which simply allows for use on the stock block and big dollar blocks like the LSX and RHS. The head is full LS7 design meaning it uses LS7 rockers, LS7 intake bolt pattern, etc, etc. The stock GM LS7 heads will bolt to a 6.2L block and work well. These heads take that a bit further and have a specific built chamber to increase flow for blocks with bore a bore size between 4.065" and 4.100". The only difference between an LS7 head and an LS7 small bore head is the chamber design. The intake valves are titanium and are 2.20". The exhaust valves are 1.59" and if I recall are stainless steel. The choice of the titanium intake valve was due to the lift of the cam and the intended shift point of roughly 7,000. It is a big valve to sling around that fast and titanium allows for a smaller valve spring. I'll post some more soon. Hoping to post assembly sometime next week.

I'll work on getting this completely up to date by the end of this week. It's looking terrible.

Well put. There was no factory Silverado SS produced with 3.73 gear from GM for 03', 04', or 05' (except the rare 2wd 05's). All of the AWD SSS's were 4.10 gear and Gov-lock differential. There was no option at all for gearing on them. I know of one Silverado SS with a 3.73 that was factory made with 3.73 gear. Kurt Urban's Silverado SS was a GMC C3 which Transtar (who made the Silverado SS) had converted to a full package Silverado SS as the display prototype for GM. If you are getting brake parts from the dealer you should only need a vin and nothing else. If you are buying them aftermarket you need to only use the brake option code and tell them you have the 330mm brake rotors with dual piston calipers. The normal Silverado 1500 came with the 325mm rotor which is quite a bit thinner and uses a single piston caliper (yes including the tow package and Z71). There was no change till the 2wd's came in 05' which brought on the 3.73 gear, drum brakes in the rear, and 14 bolt 9.5" diff. They have 13" front rotors which was a nice upgrade from GM.

The best thing I can say about this is that there are many very, very exprienced trans builders, tuners, engine builders, etc out there that are crap. Doing something for many years does not mean you know alot about what you do, it just means you've been doing it for years. I know many in all area's that are crap no matter how many years they've been doing it. Most people have that same thing at their day job. The best cop may not be the oldest cop, the best teacher may not be the oldest teacher, etc, etc. The best thing you can do is to ask why someone is using something and hope they don't repeat what is on the box. The sunshell is the most common upgraded part in the 60/65/70E's and yet how many broken sunshell's have you seen on here? Almost every single time someone tells me they have a built trans and I ask what is in it they start with "it has a beast sunshell" with a grin like they got something figured out. It's a great part, but the newest GM shells break more from driving habits than power. I very rarely see them broken anymore and yet every local builder uses a Beast sunshell, Alto red clutches or Z-Pack, a Transgo kit, pump slide upgrade or springs, and wide band. That's the usual combo and just doesn't hold.

The reason it is required after a camshaft swap is simply that the cam sensor reads the camshaft itself for the cam reluctor. The crankshaft learn is to calibrate the crank and cam sensor together. If you don't do this after a camshaft swap you can end up with a faulse missfire condition (worse than even the lope itself causes) and also end up with knock due to inaccurate timing. Odd enough it can also cause a missfire at idle. The proper steps for crank learn... Get the engine to proper temp with an engine that will not die if you rev it. Set park brake. Sounds stupid, but pcm looks for this. Open HPT Logging software and connect laptop to the truck. Click File tab and then click Connect Click Displays tab and then click VCM Controls Go to Specials tab and if all is ok you will see a ready box to click on. Hold left foot on brake entire process from just before clicking ready to after done and don't let up until done for sure. Click Ready and stab throttle hard either to wide open or close to it. Do not follow HPT instructions to slowly rev it. Rev it like you mean it. GM actually calls for wide open with the Tech 2 when doing it. If you feel it hit the limiter at 4k rpm you will know it worked. Once it hits that limiter lift as fast as you can react. Let the engine return to idle and when ready comes back to the screen you are done. Exit scanner, shut off the truck, and leave engine off for 30 seconds or so. Fire it back up after and you should be done. There is no confirm mode with HPT.

Your converter does not lock up at 5mph. His tuning is just fine. He simply doesn't have enough torque yet to make the gearing in the 4L80E work for him. Next time out he will likely be making another 100 ftlbs or more of torque and get him rolling much better. You do not tune a stall into a converter. If you gained stall speed from tuning that simply means you had a tuning problem in the first place.

LOL, never even made it to a recall for fire hazard issue.

Certainly doesn't surprise me. Chevrolet has this very piss poor thinking lately that everyone is just loaded with money. You can't get a Camaro with a V8 without doing a full on very expensive SS package. You can't get a 6.2L in a truck without doing a top level model that is rediculously expensive. The Chevy SS (stupid name) was released as a new vehicle with old technology and out of this world pricing. There is no base model for it at all. Dodge has a V6, V8 5.7L (available in a reasonably priced lower end model), V8 6.4L, and V8 6.2L supercharged. It is almost like GM has forgotten what worked so well in the 80's. How about a V6 camaro, 5.3L RS Camaro, 6.2L Z28 Camaro, 6.2L and 7.0L 1LE Z28 Camaro, and 7.0L and 6.2L Supercharged SS model. The current Z28 Camaro should be called an SS. The Z28 has always been an entry level package and not a 70,000 )over a loaded up Corvette price). My wife and I just bought a Chevrolet Cruze with 2.0L Diesel and it stickered for over 29k. The Cruze is a replacement for a Cobalt which was a replacement for a Cavalier. Basically I just bought a 29k dollar Cavalier and once again the Diesel can only be bought as a high level trim package car. When the Pontiac G8 came out GM made the mistake in not doing a version of it as a Chevrolet Caprice and Impala SS. The G8 is one of GM's best ever built cars for the money by far and away. It barely sold because it was sold under a dying name. GM also scrapped a 100% completed project known as the 4.5L Duramax for the 1500 series trucks. That engine was completely designed and ready for build. Now they are scrambling for a diesel for the half ton trucks with Nissan and Dodge now having them and Ford on the edge of having them done let alone having twin turbo V6's already built to run like a diesel. The bean counters are killing GM. They will survive, but not like they should be doing.

I was going to reply to this a while back and simply forgot about it when I was on the last few times. If you don't know the proper answer... DO NOT REPLY... My biggest issue with post on here lately has been all of the people posting who have no actual knowledge about what it is they are actually posting about. Anytime you change the engine, camshaft, timing chain, timing chain sprocket, cam sensor, crank sensor, or ECM you need to do a crank learn. Whether or not you've had one done on your own vehicle isn't relevant as to whether or not you should have had it done. On the same point, even if you don't get a code for it you still need it done. When doing the job on HPT it won't tell you if you were successful. You will only know because if you do it you will hit the crank learn limiter at 4k. If you didn't do it correctly it will just rev. I will add that it doesn't mean to just lower the rev limiter to 4k, I once had a customer do that. and then told me he had to do that to get it to take. Do not do that.

You are having some crappy luck most certainly and yet on the one thing I always bring up. I frequently see people give up on the 65E because they say they are junk (not accusing you of that) when the problem is often the builder. You rarely see FLT's, Rossler's, PATC's, etc failing. If you go back into the pump do the billet steel pump rotor unit from PATC. The forward apply piston that you have broken I am very surprised to see broken with a mod list like yours and your power level. That usually happens from exessive pressure. I would do a billet forward piston from Sonnax to replace that. I would also make sure that the EPC hasn't been touched and that the spacer plate isn't set up with too much pressure for the forward clutch engagement. Your parts list looks like one from someone reading on the internet what they need and not from actual build experience. I know that sounds like a dick of a comment, but I see this all the time and this is always the result. I would also recommend not going back to the Z-Pack. I'm surprised they still sell that. They were very popular for the first year or two after release, but not that great. The have excellent holding power once engaged, but can't handle high power shifts. The new Sonnax input drum as mentioned is bad ass and comes with the piston you broke. It is on sale at PATC without the input shaft for $427. That is a bad ass piece, but pricey when the bill is un-expected. I hope you find a good solution for this. Not sure there is anything I can do for you, but if there is feel free to call.

This is the first time I really read the whole build post and then watched the video. Truck looks very nice and is in excellent shape considering where you live. Shouldn't take much more tuning and it'll be a hell of a runner. One thing you have with that unit is that even though it is the old technology there is plenty available to improve it. Supersub now makes a phenolic spacer for them, rear pulley upgrade kit, front pulley upgrade kit, and has in the past made a 102mm throttle body upgrade for it. All 4 are items that make the blower more efficient, cooler, and reliable. The spacer keeps the heat down and efficiency up. The rear pulley kit allows you to spin the blower faster without having to have a smaller front pulley. A small front pulley tends to bring pulley slip so changing the rears lets you keep the larger front pulley and still make more boost. The larger throttle body swap also brings the boost up without changing any pulley at all effectively making it more efficient. Last but not least if I recall he makes a kit to install the newer 4 bolt pulley up front which allows for a pulley change without having to press the pulley on and off. You simply take the belt off, pull the 4 bolts out, and swap the pulley. Not trying to be a sales person for him, just making you aware of options to bring more fun into it. On a side note, big props to your wife for the 6.2 truck. Those are very rare and extremely cool. They are so rare in fact that when the 2014 truck came out with the 6.2L it was the first time GM advertised it and they made it sound like it was the first time they'd offered a 6.2L in the truck. At 403hp they scoot pretty well (58 more than a stock SSS). Ready to tune it? LOL

Price for the 101 class is $500. I won't be doing any in video form like that. Video form has a few issue's starting with people copying and then selling just as happened with Greg Banish's video. Another issue is that the software truely is complicated and when you do a class your attention is 100% on learning vs watching a video with the I'll come back to it way of learning. I also feel that learning the software will need to be inter-active so that questions can be handled as it goes. One last thing on the tuning school is that I have a handfull of customers who have went to their class and when they were done didn't really feel any more confident with their software than when they started. I'm not making a point to bash there class or any others, but I help many, many people and shops with tuning and I have a fair number of people I help who have been to a tuning school of some type. The only one that seems to get a consistantly decent review is Greg Banish. Most people have more questions when they leave class then before they went.

Do you have any software to log it with? Did you have a segment swap done? Is the speedo reading correctly?

I have worked it out so that I will be able to do classes via online web. I'll try to get info for that tomorrow post on here. I can also sell the software, yes.

My question to Blown346. You say you have a Corvette that gets 28mpg city and 35 highway with a Procharger on it. Without a doubt that coudn't be further from a true statement. You also state that it has 11.5:1 compression with stock heads and internals. Unless you have a direct injected LT1 none of them had compression that high. As for compression jumping up one point with a blower, no... Your compression ratio does not change at all with adding boost or not. The cylinder volume is xxx at bottom dead center and xxx at top dead center. That doesn't change and the theory side of it is far from an exact number of where it would be equal to depending on how much boost is added. You have been replying with too many bullshit answers lately and too much of the I read this online type of answers to which you seem to alter depending on how people view what you've said....

The bigger head studs will help alot. GM did bigger head bolts on the LS9 engines for the same reason. I'm quite surprised you aren't doing a 4" stroke. TJ does like the high boost smaller inch idea, but that just leaves room for potential issue. Either way I'm sure you'll end up somewhere around the 10.4-10.6 range if it all works as suggested. It's a shame he never got Chris's truck back out after that 11.01. AKSS, you have no worries man. You won't need anywhere near 20psi to get into the 10's. That's the whole reason for changing the crank. Stroked SS could easily get his into the 10's on the 12psi he went to the track with last time if he hadn't had a fuel pump failure and he has hp losses of turning the blower.

The re-tune issue is a good question to have, but that is about 20% of what you need to do. Check with people who have had that person tune their truck and ask how they like the tuning. Not only ask them though, see how well their car runs for yourself. I've watched people at car shows brag about their tuner all the while their cars stall, surge, have a hard time starting, and run much slower than expected at the track. As for re-tune policy that is another big issue at hand. Many of the tuners claim to have free re-tunes and then suddenly you can't get them to return your calls or have the dyno charge issue. I had a shop I worked for that said you get free re-tunes, but his way of making them free was that the tuning was free, but you paid for dyno time for the re-tune. Not exactly free. Paying for a re-tune is something you should expect to do. Experience in the field is a big deal, but once again not that big. I frequently fix people's tuning for shops that have been around for 15-20 years. My recommendation on mail order or dyno. For mail order check around to see who's car/truck runs a good number for it's mods to start with. You also want to ask the customer themselves if they are happy with the tune completely and not just a cover up because they like that person. For dyno tuning ask around town and check out their work at car shows, drag strip, their own shop, etc. If they are really good you'll even get other shops that will simply say that tuner xxx is really good even if they don't work with them. Look into that tuners more custom work even if you don't have it or need it. The tuners who say I can do bolt on cars or xxx and xxx, but not xxx, or xxx aren't tuners. If you find a tuner who can't do 1 bar sd, 2 bar sd, 3 bar sd, big cam, small cam, virtual v.e., etc then you are a novice tuner and not a real tuner. I've personally tuned using 28 different software types over the years including Honda, Nissan, Toyota, Dodge, Ford, GM, etc, etc, etc. I'm not trying to sell you on me by any means. Just giving people out there info to go on when looking for your tuner whether local or not. There are a small number of good tuners out there and thousands of hacks. The re-tune thing alone is something that has gained me alot of business though I will say. I charge for re-tunes and tell that to my customers up front. There are a good number of tuners who tell you it's free and then suddenly they won't answer your calls or e-mails because free doesn't pay the bills.

I was going to post this a while back and forgot. I am going to be holding classes for HP Tuners training. There is other software I use, but this is where I want to start since it is the most popular software used and most people need to learn the software. I will also be doing advanced course's teach the actual tuning, but learning the software first is a must. Check my Facebook page for class info or call.

Best would be a set of Cometic .040 thick gaskets with 4.00 bore. If you use a GM gasket just go with the stock gasket. The LS9 gasket has a bore if I recall of 4.080 meaning you will have plenty of empty space doing nothing around the bore at .051" thick. I would have to measure a set to be exact on that number. The stock LQ9 gasket if I recall correctly has a 4.020" bore, but I'll look up some of my notes where I've measured them in the past and post it. Always try to keep the gasket as close to the bore size as possible.

Until you get a reading of over 10,000hz reading from your maf you won't see any gain in removing the screen. The 02' and up Z06 used the same maf as the truck with the screen removed. I remove the screen in them when they run over 10khz to try to bring the lbhr/hz reading down giving a wider range. You won't see any power gain until you really move some air. Removing the screen is fine as long as you change the calibration in the tune for it.

Running a 4.88 gear and a 42" tire is quite conservative. The case should be able to handle it, but if you're concerned step up to the newer style case with the removable bell housing which is alot stronger.