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Everything posted by zippy

  1. zippy

    1/8 Mile Times

    You're missing that those times are full of s**t. A [email protected] the 1/8 mile would put you around 11.6 in the 1/4 mile. That Bully Dog tuner must be also a progressive nitrous controller with a 250-300 shot.
  2. I'm going to try to update everything this weekend. Post up if you want your stuff updated.
  3. zippy


    It is still there at the top of the page. I'll try to update it this week.
  4. I know this is a bit late on my reply to this posting, but I'll say congrats on here as I did on the phone when you ran this time. I've said for years that the TVS2300 has more than enough kick to it to get these times and yet I see time after time that people try to get there by making their setup over complicated and for no reason. More will eventually follow the 10 second number, but I don't see it being common. Along with many mistakes I see to much of the idea for over camming and over boosting. Well done Randy...
  5. The Jet and Granateli sensors are stock sensors with fancy stickers on them. There is no real gain in changing them. I would go into the long answer of it, but basically leave the stocker in there.
  6. With yours being an LQ4 you should be plenty fine with the stock gakets. The LQ4 has plenty of valve relief so you should be plenty fine. Just call the dealer with your vin and order the stock gaskets.
  7. I'm hoping to make it to one of these soon myself. I run NT05 315/35R20's in the rear and 275/40R20's in the front and will soon be switching to 315/35R20 NT05R's because as much as I love burnouts I need a bit more sticky. If you're power level isn't massive though I would recommend checking into the Hankook ST or also listed as RH06 depending on where you buy them. They have a high speed rating with a load rating as high or higher than factory which is important depending on the tire store will be a big deal. I ran those tires for years and with the suspension working in your favor you can get very good 60' times out of it.
  8. There are alot of options, mostly depending on budget. I would either go with a set of Trick Flow 225's or PRC 237's with chambers setup to be around 63-64cc. From there I would order a set of Cometic gaskets in .041" thickness at 4.000 bore for the gain in compression. The cathedral port heads make great power if done well, but compression will be very important in making them work since you need more cam with them than a rectangle port cylinder head. If you do that with a cam such as an MS3 or Torquer V2 and a very good flowing intake (and 102mm TB) such as a Holley High Ram, Victor Jr, or Fast LSx (car version) you should have a mid 12 capable truck with a 4000 range stall. Another way to go would be to use an LS3 port style head such as a Trick Flow 255, GMPP CNC LS3, or PRC 255. With those heads I would recommend a Holley High Ram, Fast LSx (ported only), GM LS3, or Victor Jr. (with plate to bolt 102mm throttle body directly to it). If you do the LS3 type of heads you will keep the chambers around 68cc to keep the piston to valve clearance as high as possible by avoiding milling at all costs. All three heads listed flow massive numbers and part of this is with big valves which can hit the LQ9 pistons which have no valve relief's if you aren't carefull. Running a cam similar to the 281LRR HR13 (231/247) will get you the power band you'll need to also get into the mid 12's. The rectangle port has the shot at making more power, but carefully done both will be very strong. The 4L80E will slow the truck a bit, but the taller first gear will help in keeping tire spin down.
  9. I would recommend a set of 80lb deka's also although you will have plenty of room with them if you have the tune correct. The sidemount Whipple will give big dreams of power, but without the power. You will make a very decent 500RWHP or just over if you push it, but you will run out of blower very quick. The ideal pump would be a 450 Walbro, but the problem is the fuel pressure regulator which is in the fuel pump module will have a hard time keeping up with it and may give you a high pressure at idle as a result. With a good tuner though you can get around that and still make for good power and driveability. The returnless systems (which actually have a return... It's just in the tank) can be difficult for making big power. I would put it on the list to change over to a standard return style system with a nice return regulator running off the fuel rails.
  10. That is quite strange. I don't remember if you had a pcm sent to you or not, but if I sent you one my first question would be did you do the crank learn? With a crank learn not performed the pcm can pick up a faulse missfire condition and turn off the a/c as a result. You may have to have someone scan it to see if it is speed only related, or rpm, or pressure, or... Let me know if there is anything I can do on my side.
  11. Best boosted sensor for the Holley intake is the LS9/LSA map sensor. The only way it will be an issue is if you have the wrong tuner. The wiring info is available online or as an adapter from Casper electronics. BTW, who in the hell told you the SSS pcm doesn't support a 3 bar map?
  12. zippy


    Both phone numbers are me. I have two phones on me all through the day.
  13. I assume you aren't aware that he already has one. The 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L, and 6.0L use the same pump. There is no difference. If you go to a dealer and give them a vin for an LS6 powered Corvette and a vin for an SS truck or 4.8L truck for that matter they are the same part number. The LS6 thing is a marketing tool when actually they are the same part including part number. If you want to buy a pump buy a Melling 10295 or 10296. Anything else is pretty much a stock replacement of what the truck already came with.
  14. The driver side valve cover on the SS's don't have a pcv valve stock. The earlier one's had a fixed orifice valve which actually had no valve in it at all and the newer valve covers basically have that built into the valve cover. Since backfires are a thing of the past the need for a valve wasn't there anymore and the fixed orifice pcv became the way to go for a consistant amount of air coming in for the idle circuit. If boosted you need to make some changes. If you have the type with the removable piece simply order a pcv valve for a 2000 or so camaro and install it in place of the fixed orifice piece. Once in boost the valve will close and not allow boost into the crankcase where as stock it would just take boost from the intake and fill it up until it pushed the valve cover out. If you have a valve cover with the fixed piece you need to either add in an inline pcv valve (many are available) or replace the valve cover for a type to install a normal valve into. Make sure to check the passenger side also. The hose from the passenger side valve cover should go to the air intake side of the supercharger and not to the throttle body or intake manifold. Left stock this will also quickly fill the crankcase with pressure.
  15. I have one, but I'll have to check with the wife to see if I can sell it. She bought it for me as a birthday gift many years ago. I've driven it around twice I think. Pretty cool though.
  16. You should never pick a cam based on sound. At this point you only have a cold air intake and Magnaflow. That would normally direct you toward a small camshaft. You would still have some lope, but not one that will give you a racecar sound. If you want to do a more agressive camshaft you will want to purchase a torque converter and shift kit at minimum. A big cam with a stock converter makes for a truck that is only quicker from a roll and also will be a pain to get the idle correct. Headers will also make even a mild camshaft sound alot more agressive. You will want a set of headers if you do a big cam also since it makes the overlap of the cam work alot more for you.
  17. It has been quite a while since I've been able to do much on here. The list needs alot of help so I'm going to be picking at it over the next few days to clean it up. There are quite a few that need to come off the list and should be plenty to be added or updated.
  18. This is going to be one hell of a build. Almost the ultimate build if you were doing one without boost. A few bits of info for those who might have questions. Gerald has posted alot, but here is some from me. Block is an LS3 and brand new from GM. 4.075" bore (.010 over) 4" stroke crank 417 cubic inches Compression will be roughly 11.6:1 BLP piston oil squirter kit. PRC 265 LS7 Small Bore heads. These are a 6 bolt head which simply allows for use on the stock block and big dollar blocks like the LSX and RHS. The head is full LS7 design meaning it uses LS7 rockers, LS7 intake bolt pattern, etc, etc. The stock GM LS7 heads will bolt to a 6.2L block and work well. These heads take that a bit further and have a specific built chamber to increase flow for blocks with bore a bore size between 4.065" and 4.100". The only difference between an LS7 head and an LS7 small bore head is the chamber design. The intake valves are titanium and are 2.20". The exhaust valves are 1.59" and if I recall are stainless steel. The choice of the titanium intake valve was due to the lift of the cam and the intended shift point of roughly 7,000. It is a big valve to sling around that fast and titanium allows for a smaller valve spring. I'll post some more soon. Hoping to post assembly sometime next week.
  19. I'll work on getting this completely up to date by the end of this week. It's looking terrible.
  20. Well put. There was no factory Silverado SS produced with 3.73 gear from GM for 03', 04', or 05' (except the rare 2wd 05's). All of the AWD SSS's were 4.10 gear and Gov-lock differential. There was no option at all for gearing on them. I know of one Silverado SS with a 3.73 that was factory made with 3.73 gear. Kurt Urban's Silverado SS was a GMC C3 which Transtar (who made the Silverado SS) had converted to a full package Silverado SS as the display prototype for GM. If you are getting brake parts from the dealer you should only need a vin and nothing else. If you are buying them aftermarket you need to only use the brake option code and tell them you have the 330mm brake rotors with dual piston calipers. The normal Silverado 1500 came with the 325mm rotor which is quite a bit thinner and uses a single piston caliper (yes including the tow package and Z71). There was no change till the 2wd's came in 05' which brought on the 3.73 gear, drum brakes in the rear, and 14 bolt 9.5" diff. They have 13" front rotors which was a nice upgrade from GM.
  21. The best thing I can say about this is that there are many very, very exprienced trans builders, tuners, engine builders, etc out there that are crap. Doing something for many years does not mean you know alot about what you do, it just means you've been doing it for years. I know many in all area's that are crap no matter how many years they've been doing it. Most people have that same thing at their day job. The best cop may not be the oldest cop, the best teacher may not be the oldest teacher, etc, etc. The best thing you can do is to ask why someone is using something and hope they don't repeat what is on the box. The sunshell is the most common upgraded part in the 60/65/70E's and yet how many broken sunshell's have you seen on here? Almost every single time someone tells me they have a built trans and I ask what is in it they start with "it has a beast sunshell" with a grin like they got something figured out. It's a great part, but the newest GM shells break more from driving habits than power. I very rarely see them broken anymore and yet every local builder uses a Beast sunshell, Alto red clutches or Z-Pack, a Transgo kit, pump slide upgrade or springs, and wide band. That's the usual combo and just doesn't hold.
  22. The reason it is required after a camshaft swap is simply that the cam sensor reads the camshaft itself for the cam reluctor. The crankshaft learn is to calibrate the crank and cam sensor together. If you don't do this after a camshaft swap you can end up with a faulse missfire condition (worse than even the lope itself causes) and also end up with knock due to inaccurate timing. Odd enough it can also cause a missfire at idle. The proper steps for crank learn... Get the engine to proper temp with an engine that will not die if you rev it. Set park brake. Sounds stupid, but pcm looks for this. Open HPT Logging software and connect laptop to the truck. Click File tab and then click Connect Click Displays tab and then click VCM Controls Go to Specials tab and if all is ok you will see a ready box to click on. Hold left foot on brake entire process from just before clicking ready to after done and don't let up until done for sure. Click Ready and stab throttle hard either to wide open or close to it. Do not follow HPT instructions to slowly rev it. Rev it like you mean it. GM actually calls for wide open with the Tech 2 when doing it. If you feel it hit the limiter at 4k rpm you will know it worked. Once it hits that limiter lift as fast as you can react. Let the engine return to idle and when ready comes back to the screen you are done. Exit scanner, shut off the truck, and leave engine off for 30 seconds or so. Fire it back up after and you should be done. There is no confirm mode with HPT.
  23. Your converter does not lock up at 5mph. His tuning is just fine. He simply doesn't have enough torque yet to make the gearing in the 4L80E work for him. Next time out he will likely be making another 100 ftlbs or more of torque and get him rolling much better. You do not tune a stall into a converter. If you gained stall speed from tuning that simply means you had a tuning problem in the first place.
  24. LOL, never even made it to a recall for fire hazard issue.
  25. Certainly doesn't surprise me. Chevrolet has this very piss poor thinking lately that everyone is just loaded with money. You can't get a Camaro with a V8 without doing a full on very expensive SS package. You can't get a 6.2L in a truck without doing a top level model that is rediculously expensive. The Chevy SS (stupid name) was released as a new vehicle with old technology and out of this world pricing. There is no base model for it at all. Dodge has a V6, V8 5.7L (available in a reasonably priced lower end model), V8 6.4L, and V8 6.2L supercharged. It is almost like GM has forgotten what worked so well in the 80's. How about a V6 camaro, 5.3L RS Camaro, 6.2L Z28 Camaro, 6.2L and 7.0L 1LE Z28 Camaro, and 7.0L and 6.2L Supercharged SS model. The current Z28 Camaro should be called an SS. The Z28 has always been an entry level package and not a 70,000 )over a loaded up Corvette price). My wife and I just bought a Chevrolet Cruze with 2.0L Diesel and it stickered for over 29k. The Cruze is a replacement for a Cobalt which was a replacement for a Cavalier. Basically I just bought a 29k dollar Cavalier and once again the Diesel can only be bought as a high level trim package car. When the Pontiac G8 came out GM made the mistake in not doing a version of it as a Chevrolet Caprice and Impala SS. The G8 is one of GM's best ever built cars for the money by far and away. It barely sold because it was sold under a dying name. GM also scrapped a 100% completed project known as the 4.5L Duramax for the 1500 series trucks. That engine was completely designed and ready for build. Now they are scrambling for a diesel for the half ton trucks with Nissan and Dodge now having them and Ford on the edge of having them done let alone having twin turbo V6's already built to run like a diesel. The bean counters are killing GM. They will survive, but not like they should be doing.
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