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Bowtie70SS

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About Bowtie70SS

  • Rank
    Bowtie70SS
  • Birthday 10/16/1972

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  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
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Previous Fields

  • Owns
    SS
  • Silverado SS/VHO/TrailBlazerSS Color
    Arrival Blue
  • SS/VHO/TrailBlazerSS Year
    2003
  • Delivering Dealership
    Cas-screwsi Chevrolet
  • Delivery Date
    61705
  • Modifications
    Flowmaster,K&N so far...only had it a week

Profile Information

  • Location
    Cincinnati, Ohio
  • Interests
    Muscle Cars (and now trucks) rebuilding, restoring, and beating the hell out of cars. If you can't drive it it ain't worth a sh*t.
  1. I had a similar issue. I needed parts 670 and 674 http://www.manualtransmissionpart.com/mm5/graphics/pdf/np149-2012.pdf My truck has 160k and I had a Maggie on it at one time. I am on my 6th transmission so by the law of averages it was time. Mine popped under a load. When I took the case out and apart I cannot see how it still worked as the splines we ALL just about completely gone.
  2. Yeah I haven't been on here in a while. I decided my SS truck addiction was taking away from my 70 SS Elcamino and 70 Pro Touring Chevelle addiction LOL. I have the same screen name here, LS1Tech, Team Chevelle. I do miss this forum and the great folks here. Sorry it's been so long and thanks for the info. I have just been too lazy (and cold) to jack up the truck and check. I will let you guys know what I find. Dave
  3. I have a 03 SS and it has developed a problem. It drives straight and smooth but when I hit a bump or a rough patch in the road the steering wheel shakes violently. So much so that I have to hit the brakes to slow down and stop it from jerking back and forth. The truck has Belltech spindles and drop springs as well as drop shocks. It has been lowered for 5 years and I have replaced the front diff as well as both CV axles in the past. It has nothing to do with the steering shaft or wheel weights. I am leaning towards ball joints? It does seem to be coming more from the LH side than the right. Do the pitman arms go bad as well? Truck has 130K miles and both inner tie rods have been replaced as well. Dave
  4. I'm looking to buy a stock air box and a partial wiring harness to the throttle body so I can fix my intermitant REP light. THanks Dave
  5. Yeah down in Ky you have that ghetto gas (91 octane). Just bustin balls Shay. I normally use 93 octane and I hate to spend the $$ to fill it but what the heck to me it beats driving a Honda.
  6. I had asked Shay to bring me some mulch since he was coming up so I could fix his truck. He didn't want to take a chance crossing state lines with a load of bootleg mulch so he smuggled it in under the intake. Seriously though I was very suprised to see that crap under there. The foam end pieces were still in place on the intake. Good thing I had a couple of spare knock sensors from my original engine.
  7. He is coming up north this weekend so I can fix the knock sensor, run a scan or 2 and flash the PCM. IF a crack develops in the honeycomb material it rattles around and grinds itself into powder and clogs the cat. You guys already know this I'm sure and I agree we need to figure out why but without the original owner???? I was planning on running a cylinder balance test via HPtuners. That should tell us what's up, that along with the scan. I just happen to have a couple of spare knock sensors. Dave
  8. A buddy of mine is gonna buy this truck for $14K. It has weird looking dual exhaust and has had some paint work, a small dent on the bed rail and a clear carfax. We think it came from Virginia and is currently being sold in Kentucky. If you recognize it let me know. Thanks!! Dave
  9. I have had my TBTC for 2 years behind the radix. On my last trans rebuild (output shaft broke) I have the converter cut open to check it out. Everything was well. I sometimes tow a 5000lb car trailer an it didn't hurt anything. I also recommend you add a billet output shaft to your list.
  10. I maked the crank pulley with a paint pen. I checked the balancer bolt and it is tight. I do have HP tuners to log with. I was using a piece of nylon to cover my air filter. I took it off of there today and it seems that was my problem? I didn't make a full pass on it but it builds boost better/quicker. I am swearing off of mods for now with the exception of a 2 bar tune in tune near future. Thanks for the replies I'll keep yall posted. Dave
  11. 3 Engines...Let's see #1 was due to a clogged catalytic converter(melted the rings to the 3 pistons). Engine #2 was a botched build by a local "reputable builder" where the loosest cylinder had .100 skirt clearance tightest was about .035 on Mahle forged pistons (calls for .025) sounded like a diesel had a ton of blowby. #3 is alive and well but just a 10K mile LQ9 pullout from a Escalade. 4 Transmissions #1 Stocker gave up at 65K burnt high gear clutches. #2 Broken output shaft. #3 Broken output shaft and everything else inside. #4 Alive and well with a billet output shaft. I reused my shift kit, Billet servos, valves and converter on all of them. So you see why I may be just a little frustrated. The worst part is I can blame no one but myself. Dave
  12. I have been through many trials and tribulations with my truck. In fact I am getting almost sick of it, almost that is. My most recent problem is that it seems like I am only building about 6 pounds of boost where I used to get 9-9.5. I have a maggie with a 2.9 pulley, engine is stock, gutted cats, custom tune. I have had 3 engines and 4 transmissions in this truck and I have it about back to normal till this. The things I have checked are: Vacuum/boost leaks at line, loose intake bolts, marked crank bolt/pulley to check for slippage, replaced Gatorback with a new one 110.5 inches(old one was glazed I know it was slipping when it got wet) . What else? Do the bypass valves fail? I'm at a loss here. Thanks!! Dave
  13. Success!! After pouring ove the pics of the ground routing and checking each one, I found the ground that comes out of the transmission harness where it runs off of the back of the engine was unhooked. Apparently I missed it or something and my problem was intermittant because occasionally it would make contact. I lightly sanded the contact and bolted it to the back of the pass cylinder head. No more problems!!(So far) I really hope this helps someone some day, and eventhough you may get frustrated just step back and go over everything one more time. Later Dave
  14. Here is a thought I just had...could one of the relays on my fan harness be sticking or backfeeding power thru the PCM with the key off? I mean if the relay is bad then it could/would feed power back thru the IGN 1 relay via the AC compressor wire to the TAC module via the ETC fuse and cause the TAC to power up before it runs thru the self tests. I may have caused water intrusion into the relays when I hosed the engine off. I'm gonna replace the relays or at least remove them to try my theory out. I really hope this is the cause cause I'm going nuts, and if it is hopefully it helps someone else out. Later Dave
  15. Well, I thought I had my problem fixed but apparently not. I threw codes P1516 P1518 P0102 P0220 all related. My truck is doing the wierd thing again where if Ipull back on the turn signal lever to the "flash to pass" position it cause all of my accessories: fans, lights, fuel pump, etc to come on like there is a short somewhere. Wierd thing is I cannot clear the REP mode unless I manually turn the headlights off before I start it and it will stay out of REP mode as long as the fans don't kick on. I don't think it's a overall power draw problem but whatever is shorted is causing a voltage drop at the TAC/TB. I consider myself proficent with a wrench and have done everything to this truck: swapped engines, trans, etc but the bundle of wires under the fuse box and at the PCM leave me some what dumbfounded. Now I wish my truck wasn't so modded cause I really can't take it to the dealer now not to mention that the problem is intermittant. DOH!
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