1slow01z71

Im sure we can work something out, Ill give you a call tomorrow once I figure out whats up with work.

PS Im going to have plenty of paint work for you to do once I get my denali

Dont let me put that cam in your truck Daniel, its going to be slow and of course you need a 5000 stall for it to run good That other thread cracks me up, people think you can actually feel the difference between a 110 and 114 lsa. It may show up on the dyno by a couple hp but the added duration is going to carry the power band on up top. James's truck trapped 108 on a couple runs in an rcsb 4wd truck in a wee little 5.3 and shifted close to 7000 rpm so yeah the power drops off up top. That cam in an awd SSS needs a 3000-3200, your 3400 will be perfect, a 3600 is at the very top end of what Id recommend for that cam. 6 years ago when I cammed my old 5.3 I put a 222/224 112 in it and its powerband came on HARD at 3600. Youve got 40 more cubes, half a point of compression and better flowing heads(317s vs. 862s), all of which will shift the point at which that cam really starts making power down into the low 3000 range which you will flash right by with a 3400. I think you really need to let me throw those ported LS6 heads in while Im doing the cam, another easy 30rwhp You also need to get you some lighter wheels, an intake, built trans and let me build you a 370 its only money tightass

Good info, based on all the info over on pt.net I went with an STS due to easily being upgradeable when I go with a bigger air pump.

Im looking for cheap forged pistons to throw on a set of rods for my 6L deal fell through for the pistons I was going to get. If I cant find some pistons for 400 or less then Im just going to throw the stock 6L in the truck. A while back TR hd a deal on some diamonds for 389 plus shipping but I cant find anything close to that now.

same output shaft and driveshafts dont know on the wiring you will got sure need a wiring harness since the autotrac t-case has a plug for the 2wd/auto 4wd/4wd actuator the vss sensors should be the same. Ill be pulling my engien/trans/t-case out shortly I can take some pics of anything you want.

Nope 400 is my bottom dollar. Its costing 200 just in shipping and getting it restalled/cleaned on top of my original cost.

Yes you read right brand new and rpm rating of your choice. I sent my converter into Howards Torque Converters(the people who ACTUALLY build the Fuddle converters) to get rebuilt/restalled. If you purchase it, I will get them to build it to the specs YOU want and it will be sent to you directly from their shop, it wont even pass through my hands. I bought the converter locally and I am not going to use like I was intending to and I dont need one for my truck since I already have one 400 shipped I need this thing GONE now! I accept paypal and ONLY paypal.

Any idea when you might be getting them back?

bump.

bump

some of you stroker gusy got any rods laying around if so let me know how much shipped to 78745

Why not go 4.25 stroke and get everything you can out of it?

The 4.125 bore cannot be achieved without sleeves but you can go to a 4.100 stroke crank like I did and go to a 4.040 bore and achieve a 422/423 but the 4.100 stroke creates ALOT of problems. A months worth of extra machining, not ot mention special pistons for the long stroke and then machining on them to get it to all work. I mocked(sp?) the engine up 6 times ot get everything right if oyu paid someone to do your work it would be astronomical.

I dont think its a C5R block those main caps dont look to be the billet ones that come with a C5R block For those pondering on what to do whether it be forced induction or more CI, more CI is by far the best option. I love my 418 for the tq that it makes and I can spray a 350 shot on it if I want. I have ridden in blown trucks and IMO they just dont compare to more motor.