shadowsniper3006

I run a 28.7" tire and 4.56 gears. I have not got traction yet so I don't know how it 60 foots, and I have not been able to make up the difference on the tall side of the track either, so I'm on the fence if it was worth it or not. And my motor is a higher rpm motor so I figured it would love it, but not yet. 60 foot difference is high/mid 1.7s compared to low 1.7/1.69x with the 4.10 and traction. Highway rpm is about 2600 at 70mph with the small tire But on a motor with no low end torque, they did finally allow me to be in 4th gear at 35-40 mph with the converter locked. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

Locking thread until clean up can be done, this is a good thread with a very good "how to" nature. When I reopen it, I hope everyone will respect the info he has presented. Some posts will be deleted or edited, if anyone has an issue with the changes please feel free to contact me via pm

I stand corrected. And that being said, enough is enough guys. Every point has been made Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

I think it's a great find that I have never seen done or talked about. And what I like even more is you were not afraid to put out your cash to try something that might not work. If I replaced my pan, I'd put this on, sure doesn't hurt and only 20 bucks more. I've spent more money on stupider things then this.... and probably will continue to. Brad Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

That was a previous test by someone else. Art is packing more then a 5.3l. And provide the results of that test were not skewed in anyway, art should see more hp with the cubic inches, compression and head flow Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

Definitely looking forward to results. Are you going to do a tb test to Art? Post some good details Art with air temps and iats. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

That sucks...nice catch though Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

Can you guys just buy the .125 spacers for the valve covers? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

Keep up the good work!!!! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

Glad you didn't give up on the pump. Proves character and provides you with more experience. Even though you don't really need it.....lol. What's the lifter preload? Remember to seal the intake studs? Assembly lube on valve tips and both push rod ends? What head gasket? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

Good decision Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

i use a magnafuel reg. Because thats what i had, aeromotive will work the exact same. http://www.magnafuel.com/products/efi/regulators/MP-9940-B.htm our fuel pressure is 58 psi mine is a 2 port with 1:1 boost ref. but mine is capped off it may be easier to do some research on this site and find out how guys have made the stock rails work like said above. Running new lines and adapting to the stock fuel lines may sound cool, but kinda a pain. Unless you want to cut the stock lines and use a compression fitting with an AN fitting. I have adapters because i didn't want to cut the stock lines, and it makes space pretty tight.

i used a small angled head prybar to very carefully pry it down for enough clearance. I also loosened all the oil pan bolts(not take them out) so i could drop the pan down enough. I also tied fishing line around the bolt for the pick up tube, so when i dropped it in the oil pan, it was very easy to get it out.

stuck on pick up tube? other then that mine came right off

Please keep posts on subject to help the OP with his issue. Thanks Much, Brad

I can't read the link at this moment. Do you know how the intake air temp drops just by putting a liquid into it? Does the liquid itself absorb the temp becoming hotter its self? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

Ok, I've been reading this to make sure no one gets out of line, but I realized I don't understand how it reduces the iat. Its just spraying a water meth mix into the flow of air going into into the motor. I assume pre iat sensor so you could see a change. But how does it cool the actual air? Or does the air remain the same temp but the sensor cools down from getting hit with a liquid that is as cool as the under hood temp. And is the gain your seeing a result of the iat alowing more timing to motor, and the motor can use the timing because of the octane value of the meth, but the incoming air is really just as hot? Someone explain in detail please I mean nothing actually cools the air down right? Theres no ice box or intercooler after the meth is sprayed in to the air flow, so how does it cool it? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

i know there is a picture there of something...but i can't see it on my phone, ipad or work computer.... also don't forget to use rtv black on the intake rocker bolts or they will leak air-oil.

push rod length needs to be checked. And when you have the preload you want, wipe needs to be checked. Your throwing some awesome parts at this truck, dont skimp out out. Do the checking. The yella terra rockers come with shims that can be added under the pedistal to help tweak in preload for a given push rod, or help choose one that gives you the perfect preload you want. I went through about an hour or two of using an adjustable push rod and a dial indicator to check how much preload i had with like 3 available push rod lengths and then with and with out shims. I think i settled on like .012 on one side and like .020 on the other with different length push rods(cam has two sized lobe circles.) theres also different theories on why one guy wants .012 preload and one guy want .110 preload. I choose the little preload theory, if your lifter pumps up with oil pressure and holds the valve open, my lifter can only pump up .012. Allowing minimal air to pass the valves when they should be shut, also helping to maintain piston to valve. The other theory is, if you preload the lifter almost all the way, if the valve spring overcomes the lifter pressure it can only push it down so far before the piston bottoms out and the valve opens anyway. In my set up, i could loose over .100 of cam lift if the spring pressure pushes the lifter plunger down, but i dont think it can. Thats what i chose to believe. You can make up your own mind, or....just bolt it together and not care about the details. I also do not torque the yella terra rockers like our stock set up. Because each cylinder is on a shaft, torque can be skewed(imo) if the other rocker arm is trying to close a valve spring even if the one your torqing is not. I guess its splitting hairs, because if the lifters are not pumped up it will just push the push rod down, but i never took the chance. I wait until the cylinder is on the compression stroke and therefore both lifters are on the base circle of the cam.

that cam is too big, in general, but for your mods right now...its way to big. Right now you dont have near the compression to make that cam even think about working down low, the small heads are about the only thing helping your torque right now, and its really not becuase better heads will improve torque by the time you hit your stall rpm. If you ever want the truck to 60 foot, start thinking 4500+ converter. I normally say forget the intake manifold, but even with 11.4 compression and add the great flowing heads that cam wants to breath way up top. About any intake that has a 4 bolt tb will help you out, so forget the ls6 idea. You can tame the shift points down by keeping the runners long with a lsxrt or tbss intake. I would use a lsxrt and a 102 to let that cam breath but maintain the shift points. If you want a hp number that cam you can use a carb style intake like a vic jr, but prepared for little torque off the line and not much peak torque either, and high rpm hp, like 7200+ peak. Cams that big need to be done right on, or a 224 cammed truck is going to show you the tail lights every time, and pass you at the gas station, and drive better with a 3400 converter, and wear out the valve guides less...and be more fun to drive around town.

Little slow. How's the da when you ran. 60 foot, mph? Don't think the retune for the stall will matter. What size cam/stall? Don't waste your time or money on the intake. Truck intake is plenty good to run 12's on. I don't think guys know what running a low 13 second pass in a 5200 pound takes. When you get your tune right with a wideband I would say high 13's, low 14's depending von da and cam/stall size/match. What Headers? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

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This i know. He was comparing 317 stock casting to a 799 casting wasn't he? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

Factory casting is a 71cc, 799 is a 65 cc. Tea would only deck my heads to 67, or at least that is what they told me. The only thing I'm not sure of is if the 799 and 317 share the same deck to valve height when they are stock. If they do, even though the 799 has a smaller chamber, any decking on the 317 would then have less ptv. Do you have any articles or links that say the valves are the same depth from the deck to the shallowist point of the valve edge Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

They are.