dcairns

Yeah, I don't do FascistBook either. But I am an original owner, still lurking around here from time to time

Lower the truck? 😀

That air dam looks cool. Did you make that as well?

I got this one, long ago. Still have it and love it. No bottom to it, so your stuff sits on the carpet, which keeps things quiet.

I could be wrong, as I am going off vague memories of how the transfer case is built, but I think the transmission output shaft is a solid piece of metal, from the transmission to the drive shaft u-joint. The front is driven by a chain drive off a sprocket on that shaft. If the front works, and the rear does not, it would mean the output shaft is broken after the chain drive sprocket. Seems an unlikely failure. Then again, I managed to break the input shaft on my transmission.. 😆

Usually anything going wrong with the transmission, it is time to write a big check. But you could try the obvious, Check the wires going to the transmission, give them a wiggle. Check fluid level Maybe a problem with the PCM? Might be worth disconnecting the battery for a while and hopefully giving the PCM a bit of a reset.

Or look into the sensor to see why it thinks it is low on oil.

Been a while, so I might not be remembering correctly, but when I added my transmission cooler, I used hard lines. I probably did this around 15 years ago, no issues.

These trucks do have an issue with the intermediate steering shaft, but that manifests as more of a kind of klunk felt in the steering wheel. The "front end is all over the place" sounds more like part of the steering/suspension. Have you checked the steering gear box? Excessive wear could make it "wander". Also, did you check the idler arm? If I recall right, mine was a little "wandery" and found the idler arm was worn.

As I recall, it is not that hard. You do need to remove the door panel, and you can find videos on that. If memory serves, there is a screw or two to remove, the rest is popping the panel off the door (wide flat blade screw driver or get a tool made for this purpose). Once loose, you need to disconnect wires and then you have the door panel free and can access to the screw that holds the power window switch panel.

Stock HP is 345. The stock transmission is marginal in the first place. If yours is still original (not been rebuilt) and with that many miles, you might need a transmission rebuild in the not too distant future. Adding 125 HP to my 03 SS with a Radix Supercharger, caused the stock transmission to wear out at 70k (installed the supercharger at 2,500 miles). That should give you some idea about what you can expect from the transmission.

These trucks look pretty great just as they are. One add on that I have really liked is the under seat storage compartment that goes under the rear seat. If you want to do some hot rodding... that is one area that is a lot of fun. I put a supercharger on my 03 SS and it really changed the character of the truck. Lots of power off the line. The down side is shortened transmission life ;D

Welcome back ? Looks like I have been here since Sept 2002.

Welcome!!!

I have not done mine (yet). Although I probably should. I did run across this video on replacing the column bearing that might be helpful. Notice the bit towards the end about the keying and clip of the plastic insert that might affect how you go about it.

Looks nice ?

What usually wears are the clutch bands. Rebuilds are expensive, just had mine done again last year. If you have it rebuilt before something breaks, it might take fewer replacement parts to rebuild it. On the other hand, if you can afford to have it break down on you sometime, you could just wait and hope no expensive parts go out at the same time. I seem to have a knack for breaking expensive parts.....

Although you sometimes hear of transmissions failing after a fluid change, I would change the fluid anyways. At least do it at a time when it would not be inconvenient if the transmission failed. Or just be pro-active and get it rebuilt. My 03 transmission only lasted to 70k. I do have a superchager, which does help with transmission longevity ;D

Have you used a scan tool to see what the error codes are? Some auto parts stores and repair shops will scan for free.

Looks nice. Is the center part plastic or metal?

I did replace the hubs a while back due to a error. I think that showed up differently, but don't recall exactly what it was. Those speed sensors in the hubs seem to be rather finicky.

My issue is on startup (almost all the time). If I turn it off, open and close the door and restart, it is usually fine. But I will check the fluid. I had not thought of that being a trigger for an ABS error.

Lots of little stuff. Steering gear is a bit hard to turn. Either the pump or the gear box. The driver's side panel that the has the windows and door lock switches has popped up and needs some surgery. Window washer pump is not working. Gear selector index is kinda funny. There are like two spots where is still shows Drive. The gear selector indicator is very dim. I need to pull the cluster and re solder some resistors, from what I have read. Security light randomly flashes on. Sometimes the whole instrument cluster goes dead and then comes right back. I hear that could be the BCM. Rarely, the ABS and Brake lights will put on a light show with lots of beeps, which might be a ABS module failure. But more likely a bad wire somewhere.

Welcome back. I have been showing up here again as well. More and more, it seems like I am needing info for minor repairs ;D

Have you looked at these guys? https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/satellite-radio-integration/ISGM12 I have had one of their ipod / aux input adapters on my stock radio for a long time and it is great. They seem to have an XM adapter as well at the link above.