dcairns

Did you look them up in the CARB database? They could be wrong about the EO. https://ww3.arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/devices/amquery.php Perhaps try another smog shop? ;D

When I had my transmission rebuilt, I had a higher stall converter put in as well. The down side is higher transmission temps when towing. So to (hopefull) fix this, I got a aluminum transmission pan and a electric fan for my B&M transmission cooler. Mag-Hytec - Model: #4L60E-B Since the SS comes with a high capacity pan already, the replacement pan only holds about 1.5 quarts more than the stock pan, according to Mag-Hytec. If I had read the process for removing the transmission pan before I started, I would have gladly paid to have somebody else do it. Tranny Pan Help. Please Hurry. But I just dove in thinking it would be straight forward like my 64 Impala… But as others have noted, some idiot at GM designed the shift cable mounting and bracket such that it blocks removal of the pan. To make matters worse the bolts to remove it are on the top side of the transmission where they are hard to reach. I did the suggested “bend the bracket” routine and that got the old pan off. But to have enough room to bend the bracket, I had to remove the front drive shaft. That was not too big a deal, just unbolt the front u-joint and push it back to clear the yoke, then drop it down and pull it forward. Takes a bit of wiggling to get the last bit out, and likewise to get it back in. As I went to put the new pan in place, it was no surprise that it jammed against the exhaust. So I loosened the three driver’s side exhaust pipe to manifold bolts, and jammed a piece of pipe between the frame and body to hold the exhaust down and away from the transmission. This got me just enough room to get the new pan in. Clearly the designers in charge of the layout of things around the transmission pan should be sentenced to working at a transmission shop changing filters on Silverados for the rest of their lives. Functionality aside, this is a cool looking addition to the SS, just a lot more pain to install than it ought to be.

Still have mine from long ago.... still looks great! Thanks for making them

Well, this was interesting. I was driving on a residential street coming to a stop when the brake pedal suddenly went to the floor! I was just about to go for the parking brake, but was able to slowly make it stop before the stop sign. Thank God this did not happen at higher speeds around cross traffic! Anyways, I limp home (just a block away) using the parking brake and checked out what was going on. In the front left of the engine compartment, brake fluid was sprayed around and dripping on the driveway. Further investigation showed the batter had been leaking some acid. Not a huge amount, but enough to eat some paint off the battery tray. But it seems like the acid must have found a way to drip down to the brake line on the frame near the battery. This line goes from the distribution block in the middle of the truck to the front right wheel, passing under the radiator on it's way. The battery was a Bosch low maintenance battery that I got as a free replacement for a better battery that died early. Most people run sealed no-maintenance batteries these days. So I would say, stay away from anything that is not sealed. Battery leakage can be an issue. I was surprised that a single hard line failure would result in complete loss of brakes, I always thought they ran a dual circuit system, so if you lost either of the front lines, the backs would still work and the other way around as well. It seems the dual circuit only extends to the distribution block. Not a very good design, if you ask me.

Yes, I will report this, even though it probably won't make a difference. I have read that GM narrowly missed having to do a recall on this by claiming it is "normal wear and tear" for brake lines to corrode and fail after 6 or 7 years http://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2015-04-09/gm-avoids-recall-of-2-million-trucks-for-corroded-brake-lines I did see a stainless set of lines on rock auto made by Dorman (not exactly my first choice in parts suppliers).

So what do you consider to be the advantages of the Belltechs vs the others? For instance I prefer a smoother ride especially when towing.

Yup, still got mine, barely.... http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/85634-keep-your-guard-up-theives-still-want-our-trucks/ 100K miles and the Radix is still going strong

Hi Ben Was that "BSer" that did the roll pan?

Just a reminder, our trucks are still popular with thieves! After 11 years of ownership, I had the unwelcome surprise of coming back from the grocery store to my SS, to find that some jerk had come within seconds of making off with my SS. He must have been spooked by another shopper in the parking lot or saw us coming out of the store. He knew how to get this far, so I am sure he knew how to finish the job and be gone. The tow truck driver said the SS trucks are popular with thieves these days, as there seems to be an active trucking scene with low lifes who don't care where their parts come from. I never cease to be amazed how bad the security on modern cars is. In any event, I am thankful to still have my SS and only be out my $100 deductible, although I would rather have that money in my pocket. Needless to say, I will be investing in some countermeasures. I saw a German Sheppard in the back seat of another car in the parking lot, and it is looking like a good idea. I wonder what my cat would thing.... Passenger side door, lock cylinder pushed in and opened, probably with a screwdriver. Steering column cracked open, and looks like a screw driver with good leverage was used on the lock .

Thanks for all the comments. I did not have any alarm or anything, so that is going to have to change. I mostly wanted to remind everyone who is like me, thinking I live in a safe enough area not to worry about it. And to show just how easy it is for a thief to get in.

I am a bit late to the brake upgrade party, having only recently passed the 100k mile mark on my 03 SS, and started to need new brakes. Here is the recipe I used: Stoptech drilled/slotted rotors. I liked these because they have a coating on the not friction areas that keep them from rusting, so they stay nice looking. The drilled/slotted feature is mostly for looks, but you got to admit, it does look good ;) Fronts (07 Tahoe): 127.66045R 127.66045L Rears (stock) 12766057R 12766057L PowerStop Calipers Red Powder Coated. Liked the powder coating aspect. A durable finish that will endure. Front PWR S4918 Rear PWR S4764 Centric Ceramic Posi Quiet Pads. Heard lots of good things about Centric from mechanics, so I went with them. Front 105.10920 Rear 105.08340 New brake hoses, "stainless steel" hoses from a local vendor, since my early 03 won't work with the available Earls kit. The larger front rotors sure look a lot more competent ! Front: Rear: Yeah, it needs a good washing now

Humid weather?

You might want to check the fan clutch as well. I was having an issue where the A/C compressor would shut down and blow warm/hot air while at a stop light (but only when the car is first started). Once I got away from the light, the moving truck was forcing enough air through to get it working right. Strangely the engine coolant temps were fine.

With Earls no longer making them, and Russles only doing 04 and up (I called them and confirmed what the catalog said). What lines are available for 03 AWD 4 wheel disc brakes?

I had something kinda funny, kinda bad happen to me while on vacation. Seems some woodland critter thought my supercharger would make a nice place for a nest and the firewall pad would make good bedding material

I ordered the same part number (RUS-672430) and the brake shop said the fittings were different in a couple places. Sent them back.

I just put in 21 gallons last night for $90. I try not to look at the total Makes me glad I work from home.

I would back up a bit here, if your stock brakes are not seeming to be adequate for towing, then something is wrong with the setup. Does your boat trailer have brakes? If not, it sounds like it needs them. The boat trailer brakes need to be in good working order as well so they can take care of most/all of the increased braking needed. That said, the stock truck brakes can certianly be improved, but first get the trailer end working right.

I noticed my truck was a bit down on power when I was flooring it, and discovered that the intercooler pump was not running. Checked the plug for power, and that was okt. Gave the pump a whack and it started working . Checked it again a bit later and it needed another whack, sounds like it is time to replace it. Searching around here, I see some guys saying the Meziere WP136s pump is a good upgrade at 20gph. Meziere Enterprises WP136S Anybody tried it? What about the Meziere WP116S at 35gph (more is better ) Meziere Enterprises WP116S or the 40gph (too much is better still ) Meziere Enterprises WP116SHD I have a large heat exchanger so I think the higher gallons per hour would be put to good use

You caught my typo. Yes, after thinking about it, I am leaning towards the 136. Given the tube sizes and all, a bigger pump would just draw more power and not get much more through the system. I am also looking into the idea of a larger resevoir, if only because the existing one seems to introduce lots of air into the coolant due to the whirlpool it makes. That would only get worse with a bigger pump.

I think they make better fitting heat exchangers now especailly for the SS, although I am not sure where. I got this one back in '03 and it was actually made for a Ford Lightning I had to trim the tabs and do some finger gymnastics to get it bolted in. The electric fans are a "must do" as they cool things down while you are at the stop light, waiting for the next full throttle launch.

That is what I thought. But with contrary info from what Russell had in their catalog and when I called them and searching here, some folks had trouble with their lines fitting (I think those were Earl's kits, though), I figured I better be sure. I will go ahead and order some and see. thanks for the sanity check.

It is a bit of a large PDF, but has lots of specs on the Silverado SS. Like the stock cam lift measurements. Grab a copy before some GM bean counter cuts the budget and it goes away. http://www.gmheritagecenter.com/gm-heritage-archive/docs/Silverado/2003-Chevrolet-Silverado-SS.pdf You can find other cars/trucks from this link My linkhttp://www.gmheritagecenter.com/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits.html