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Everything posted by misterp

  1. DIDN'T THINK OF THAT LOL! Another good reason to mod your truck! ;) Mr. P.
  2. I saw that a while ago, I was upset by it as well. It's amusing how GM (Delphi) spends millions of dollars in developing anti-theft and it's rendered useless with a screwdriver and extra PCM. - Mr. P.
  3. Yeah; I wouldn't exactly have called it a 'race' though! (Good thing it didn't have nitrous on it!) Mr. P.
  4. Stock brakes with heavy rims??? Mr. P.
  5. Personally, I would throw a brand new FAL set into the dumpster. The FAL kit pulls less air than the OEM fans - at a truck meet in Waco we had the Torrent, FAL, and OEM side-by-side and the FAL kit pulled a little less air than the OEM, the Torrent kit pulled half-again more air than the OEM fans. The plastic of the FAL shroud IMO is inferior to OEM, that is my impression. But the worst issue though is that Dan (Sprayed99) extinguished an electrical fire on a *close* friend's truck, the relay/control box on the FAL kit had spontaneously caught fire. In all fairness to FAL, HPM had two harness failures across the entire run of Torrent kits made, and in those cases the fans quit working but never was there a fire (or any other damage to the purchaser's vehicle) - and brand new replacement harnesses were exchanged on-the-spot for free because it would crush me if one of our control harnesses burned down someone's truck like that. Serious stuff. Mr. P.
  6. The Paxton on my truck was initially so loud at idle you could hear it 3-houses away, at idle... after a few thousand miles, it quieted down (now you can only hear it the next house over lol) Mr. P.
  7. The job of the PCM is to know exactly how much oxygen is in the motor at any given instant - with that knowledge, it knows how much fuel to add in order to get clean combustion. To know how much air is in the motor, these sensors have to be working correctly: IAT, MAP, and (optionally) MAF. (The O2 sensors come into play later, in the fueling correction/trimming strategy.) Some thoughts I would consider, in no particular order - From what you tell me, it sounds like the truck is not being fueled correctly. I would guess it is running lean and cutting out at 4000+ rpm. I would verify that the MAP and IAT sensors are working right, can you monitor them with your scan tool? Make sure the IAT at cold-start matches outside temp, etc. Make sure idle MAP is a sane and steady value. Maybe you have a weak injector? A weak fuel pressure regulator? is there 52-psi measured at the fuel rail? Cleaning the TB - this is an easy job, I would go ahead and unbolt the unit from the manifold because it's sealed with a really good reusable silicone rubber gasket, and once you get it off there you will find a crap-load of buildup in the "throat" of the manifold, behind the throttle body. But in all honesty, I don't think that a dirty TB will cause an outright misfire - my TB is *very* dirty and the symptoms it displays is the RPM taking longer to return to idle, and a racy idle at times, but never an outright rough idle or misfire. Mr. P. More: O2's: The O2 DTC codes you have are HEATER performance - this means that the PCM sees that the O2 sensors are failing to physically get warmed-up fast enough. In trucks with aftermarket headers and/or gutted cats, this is a fact of life (cold O2 sensors) and we have to instruct the PCM to ignore these errors. But as you have factory cats, I am going to assume that you also have factory manifolds, too - which means to me that there is no reason for these O2 sensors to be failing to heat up and I would replace the front two as soon as you can afford and the rear two at your next financial opportunity. O2 sensors on these trucks should be replaced at 80K-miles anyways, I've seen several cases (including my own truck) where fuel mileage instantly got better after replacing aged O2 sensors. The blinking light on the dash just means that the PCM sees the crankshaft slowing down i.e. it is detecting a misfire - but you already know that in the moment you are driving the truck! I agree on using the infrared gun to verify the cats are still good, and from there check the fuel pressure regulator. I would also spend $7 and replace the fuel filter, too (it might be clogged?)
  8. ...adding a few drops of Astroglide to the coolant is cheaper and will achieve the same result.
  9. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/csi-911ls1c/overview/make/Chevrolet ($40, they also make them black anodized) Mr. P.
  10. Sorry to hear about the issues. It's not much fun when you spend more time fighting than wrenching. Mr. P.
  11. Thank you for the compliments, they are appreciated. I have been very proud of the fan kits, and how well they are still regarded all these years later. The reality is that a "clever rat" can get a set of junkyard fans working for under $200 in parts, and have an OEM solution. The only hard 'measurable' advantage that the HPM Torrent E-Fan Kit has is that it is *extremely* low-profile; that was its genesis, it had to be thin in order to make room for forced induction plumbing on my truck! The financial reality is that very few truck enthusiasts will pay $600-700 for a set of E-Fans - only those few crazy enough to undertake fabricating custom turbo or centrifugal projects and needing those 2-1/2" the OEM E-Fans still consume. Because I have to build in bulk (at least 15-units just to break even) and there is no longer that kind of demand to support massive group buys for a custom product on a truck that is now getting long in the modding tooth, these will have to just be priced and made on a project-by-project basis. So if you can convince me why your build REQUIRES a set of these bespoke-for-free units (each Torrent kit was truly a labor of love, we barely broke-even on them) I might consider pitching in and helping with your truck. From now on, they will have to be specd, priced, and made individually. You'll have to bribe me! Mr. P.
  12. That's quality right there! The Harley sticker makes it.
  13. I woulda thought one from a SBC having a straight discharge would work? No?
  14. I feel your pain! Been there, and got the T-shirt a few times over! Don't run without all the exhaust bolts. I would use a new gasket on the driver's side. I would also remove that broken bolt, and do the job right. I've done a few broken header bolt jobs in the past, they are a PITA, but with lots of patience you can get it out. I personally would CAREFULLY use a 90-degree drill & very, very small super-high-quality bit and drill exactly down the center of the bolt. Go easy, and make sure that you are drilling in the center and truly perpendicular to the exhaust flange surface. Be careful not to drill too deep, look at the bolts you have to determine how deep you need to go. Once you've drilled the "starter hole" then drill a 1/8" hole, and if there is room then a 3/16" hole... at this point the bolt should be good & hot from friction and an easy-out will be able to remove what is left. Oh, and use the 'square' easy out, not the left-handed spiral ones. You *might* be able to make more room to work by removing the plastic inner fenderwell (not hard to do) and temporarily uncoupling the steering shaft. It's a long-winded job, but will you will be a lot better to spending an hour to do this surgery than several hours + the $$$ to remove and reinstall the head. Mr. P.
  15. >>> ...and had 1 1/2 thousandths of taper on it. <<< HOLY &*#$%!!! After only 8000-miles?! SO SORRY to hear about this situation, for what it's worth I've been there before on past projects. Totally understand the being lied to part as well. F'n sucks. It is very hard to find truly qualified machinists, not just technically qualified but ethically qualified as well. I learned long ago, and now I have NO problem paying good money to good people. Building a LSX with that much stroke requires some expert knowledge (so as to not have too much of the piston skirt unsupported at the bottom of the stroke). But man I LOVE the sound of the motors with the 4.125" crank in them - BEASTLY! Mr. P.
  16. You're going to have to ask that as a new topic, under the PCM TUNING sub-forum. Also ask on CorvetteForum.com, and LS1Tech.com etc. Mr. P.
  17. My vote: sell the 243's + TBSS intake, and put that money into boring the LY6 0.030-over (to unshroud the valves) & porting the 823's. You're gonna need a bigger fuel pump! :O If you want to stick to a top-end upgrade, I would still use the Gen-IV stuff, take the money from selling the 243's + TBSS intake and have them ported! Mr. P.
  18. Hmmmm... it depends on how hawt she is! lol
  19. Removing the cats will only gain a tenth of a MPH in the 1/4-mile on a Radix-blown truck; the gains on a naturally aspirated truck are even less. Flowmaster is not my personal choice for muffler... it would be interesting to see what the truck runs in the 1/4-m without it. If you really like the sound then keep it, but there are a couple "straight thru" products that perform better. The best sounding exhaust I've had, and EVERYONE complimented both on the street and at the SSS truck meets, was factory manifolds + gutted cats + Corsa Touring + 2800-RPM converter + CAI + tune = pure sex. Focus on the tune; in the Phoenix area it shouldn't be too hard to find a couple guys that can really tune that truck WELL. After that, if you want more performance you will want to focus on transmission improvements, that can cut an easy 3-5 tenths off your time. After that .... ???? ;) Mr. P.
  20. The show is more about the characters, not the cars.
  21. misterp

    GI.SS 06 SS Build

    Very cool! Those do fit better than I thought they would. Too bad they don't make caltracs for the front axle haha Mr. P.
  22. Lemme know if you are ever out at Keller's, or Cars & Coffee! Mr. P.
  23. I hear ya; the best option would be something that monitored the MAP sensor voltage vs. fuel pressure sensor voltage (i.e. it knows both the current manifold pressure -and- current fuel rail pressure) and if it sees the fuel pressure sensor voltage not rise in direct proportion to the MAP sensor voltage then it turns on a low-voltage triggering lead, which you could use to turn on a LED, or disable BOTH pumps, or trigger the PCM into limp-home-mode, etc. These are times I (again) wish I knew more about electronics! Mr. P. Edit - assuming one uses a FPR *after* the fuel rails, I would run a single 3/8" line back to the tank and split it with a Y into both pump buckets. The advantage of my idea is that one could keep the factory original pump bucket completely unmodified, minimizing pump starvation.
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