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misterp

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misterp last won the day on April 27 2014

misterp had the most liked content!

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About misterp

  • Rank
    Walkin' Under a Snake's Belly
  • Birthday 04/01/1968

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    http://
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    ustrc2000

Previous Fields

  • Owns
    SS
  • Silverado SS/VHO/TrailBlazerSS Color
    Black
  • SS/VHO/TrailBlazerSS Year
    2003
  • Drivetrain Config
    AWD
  • Build Date/TPW
    April 2003
  • Delivery Date
    6/26/2004

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Plano, TX

Recent Profile Visitors

2,950 profile views
  1. DIDN'T THINK OF THAT LOL! Another good reason to mod your truck! ;) Mr. P.
  2. I saw that a while ago, I was upset by it as well. It's amusing how GM (Delphi) spends millions of dollars in developing anti-theft and it's rendered useless with a screwdriver and extra PCM. - Mr. P.
  3. misterp

    Anybody raced a SRT-10 Ram?

    Yeah; I wouldn't exactly have called it a 'race' though! (Good thing it didn't have nitrous on it!) Mr. P.
  4. misterp

    Total lost intimidator

    Stock brakes with heavy rims??? Mr. P.
  5. I assume that did not include a viscous clutch?
  6. misterp

    Best E-fan Kit?

    Personally, I would throw a brand new FAL set into the dumpster. The FAL kit pulls less air than the OEM fans - at a truck meet in Waco we had the Torrent, FAL, and OEM side-by-side and the FAL kit pulled a little less air than the OEM, the Torrent kit pulled half-again more air than the OEM fans. The plastic of the FAL shroud IMO is inferior to OEM, that is my impression. But the worst issue though is that Dan (Sprayed99) extinguished an electrical fire on a *close* friend's truck, the relay/control box on the FAL kit had spontaneously caught fire. In all fairness to FAL, HPM had two harness failures across the entire run of Torrent kits made, and in those cases the fans quit working but never was there a fire (or any other damage to the purchaser's vehicle) - and brand new replacement harnesses were exchanged on-the-spot for free because it would crush me if one of our control harnesses burned down someone's truck like that. Serious stuff. Mr. P.
  7. misterp

    D1SCSS 2003 AWD build

    The Paxton on my truck was initially so loud at idle you could hear it 3-houses away, at idle... after a few thousand miles, it quieted down (now you can only hear it the next house over lol) Mr. P.
  8. The job of the PCM is to know exactly how much oxygen is in the motor at any given instant - with that knowledge, it knows how much fuel to add in order to get clean combustion. To know how much air is in the motor, these sensors have to be working correctly: IAT, MAP, and (optionally) MAF. (The O2 sensors come into play later, in the fueling correction/trimming strategy.) Some thoughts I would consider, in no particular order - From what you tell me, it sounds like the truck is not being fueled correctly. I would guess it is running lean and cutting out at 4000+ rpm. I would verify that the MAP and IAT sensors are working right, can you monitor them with your scan tool? Make sure the IAT at cold-start matches outside temp, etc. Make sure idle MAP is a sane and steady value. Maybe you have a weak injector? A weak fuel pressure regulator? is there 52-psi measured at the fuel rail? Cleaning the TB - this is an easy job, I would go ahead and unbolt the unit from the manifold because it's sealed with a really good reusable silicone rubber gasket, and once you get it off there you will find a crap-load of buildup in the "throat" of the manifold, behind the throttle body. But in all honesty, I don't think that a dirty TB will cause an outright misfire - my TB is *very* dirty and the symptoms it displays is the RPM taking longer to return to idle, and a racy idle at times, but never an outright rough idle or misfire. Mr. P. More: O2's: The O2 DTC codes you have are HEATER performance - this means that the PCM sees that the O2 sensors are failing to physically get warmed-up fast enough. In trucks with aftermarket headers and/or gutted cats, this is a fact of life (cold O2 sensors) and we have to instruct the PCM to ignore these errors. But as you have factory cats, I am going to assume that you also have factory manifolds, too - which means to me that there is no reason for these O2 sensors to be failing to heat up and I would replace the front two as soon as you can afford and the rear two at your next financial opportunity. O2 sensors on these trucks should be replaced at 80K-miles anyways, I've seen several cases (including my own truck) where fuel mileage instantly got better after replacing aged O2 sensors. The blinking light on the dash just means that the PCM sees the crankshaft slowing down i.e. it is detecting a misfire - but you already know that in the moment you are driving the truck! I agree on using the infrared gun to verify the cats are still good, and from there check the fuel pressure regulator. I would also spend $7 and replace the fuel filter, too (it might be clogged?)
  9. misterp

    32 Ferd Truck Build

    ...adding a few drops of Astroglide to the coolant is cheaper and will achieve the same result.
  10. misterp

    32 Ferd Truck Build

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/csi-911ls1c/overview/make/Chevrolet ($40, they also make them black anodized) Mr. P.
  11. misterp

    American racing headers

    Sorry to hear about the issues. It's not much fun when you spend more time fighting than wrenching. Mr. P.
  12. misterp

    Best E-fan Kit?

    Thank you for the compliments, they are appreciated. I have been very proud of the fan kits, and how well they are still regarded all these years later. The reality is that a "clever rat" can get a set of junkyard fans working for under $200 in parts, and have an OEM solution. The only hard 'measurable' advantage that the HPM Torrent E-Fan Kit has is that it is *extremely* low-profile; that was its genesis, it had to be thin in order to make room for forced induction plumbing on my truck! The financial reality is that very few truck enthusiasts will pay $600-700 for a set of E-Fans - only those few crazy enough to undertake fabricating custom turbo or centrifugal projects and needing those 2-1/2" the OEM E-Fans still consume. Because I have to build in bulk (at least 15-units just to break even) and there is no longer that kind of demand to support massive group buys for a custom product on a truck that is now getting long in the modding tooth, these will have to just be priced and made on a project-by-project basis. So if you can convince me why your build REQUIRES a set of these bespoke-for-free units (each Torrent kit was truly a labor of love, we barely broke-even on them) I might consider pitching in and helping with your truck. From now on, they will have to be specd, priced, and made individually. You'll have to bribe me! Mr. P.
  13. misterp

    This poor ISS

    That's quality right there! The Harley sticker makes it.
  14. misterp

    32 Ferd Truck Build

    I woulda thought one from a SBC having a straight discharge would work? No?
  15. misterp

    Header Install

    I feel your pain! Been there, and got the T-shirt a few times over! Don't run without all the exhaust bolts. I would use a new gasket on the driver's side. I would also remove that broken bolt, and do the job right. I've done a few broken header bolt jobs in the past, they are a PITA, but with lots of patience you can get it out. I personally would CAREFULLY use a 90-degree drill & very, very small super-high-quality bit and drill exactly down the center of the bolt. Go easy, and make sure that you are drilling in the center and truly perpendicular to the exhaust flange surface. Be careful not to drill too deep, look at the bolts you have to determine how deep you need to go. Once you've drilled the "starter hole" then drill a 1/8" hole, and if there is room then a 3/16" hole... at this point the bolt should be good & hot from friction and an easy-out will be able to remove what is left. Oh, and use the 'square' easy out, not the left-handed spiral ones. You *might* be able to make more room to work by removing the plastic inner fenderwell (not hard to do) and temporarily uncoupling the steering shaft. It's a long-winded job, but will you will be a lot better to spending an hour to do this surgery than several hours + the $$$ to remove and reinstall the head. Mr. P.
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