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    Arrival Blue
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    Bob Fisher Chevrolet
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    PCM work

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    Best Tuners

    It's been a little while since I've been here to the SSS board, but perhaps it is time for a tax season special. Since the price of core PCM's has come down what we have been considering is sell the tunes for $250 and INCLUDING the PCM. Thus you would not have to send back a core and can keep your stock PCM to swap in at any time. For anyone that wanted to send their PCM in for tuning we can discount it to $175 for the tune. We've lost touch with the SSS crowd a bit working on other projects, but figured it might be time to say hello again and offer a special. This is much cheaper than a handheld, and is a better tune. Plus, with having the stock PCM sitting there waiting you can go back to stock at any time just like with the handheld. Shoot us an email if interested and I'll let you know how to get the special pricing. Thanks, Bryan
  2. I've pulled the front shaft for dyno tunes numerous times with no ill effects. I did this on my own 04 SSS a few times as I did upgrades in stages for research work. I have never experienced any issues or damage to the transfer case whatsoever. I would NEVER drive the truck on the street with the driveshaft out as you can hear the transfer case groan and it does not drive right, but, you are pushing 5500LBS and 4 wheels on the street. On the dyno you are pushing 3500 LBS of rolling mass and just two wheels of friction. In my opinion and experience you will not cause yourself any problems nearterm or longterm with pulling the shaft to dyno your truck. Bryan
  3. It sure does Damn cheap living though. 2400 Square foot with 3 car garage, 1 acre and free heat (gas well on the back corner of the property) for less than $200K is not possible too many other places in the US The crappy 1200 Square foot cape cod no basement .3 acre right along the highway dumpy home I left behind in Reading PA sold for over $100K. The town is impossible to get from one side to the other but it sure is quiet and peaceful. After 10 years in the Philly/Reading area I was burnt out on the traffic, the hustle and bustle, etc...
  4. Is on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevrolet-S...sspagenameZWDVW Low miles, needs some touch up paint and a buff and polish, but is a straight, fast, low mile truck. Thanks, Bryan
  5. Hi, We are still here and have great tunes for the Silverado SS. Might be time for a group purchase so everyone remembers we are still here Thanks, Bryan
  6. I hate to say it but it is time to move on to something different. I bought the truck brand new in Dec 03 and have done the following modifications in this order PCM tune Magnaflow muffler replacing stock muffler EFANS (LS1's) run by PCM HomeDepot home build cold air intake AS&M headers, cat delete (still passes OBD2 plug in test with PCM programming ) Ported heads by JD's auto repair in Philadelphia along with custom grind cam with durations in the 21x range (I will have to pull the cam card to refresh my memory) 380HP at the tires, dyno tuned. BUILT 4L65E at 10K miles to handle the power and has a nice FIRM shift Cam is small enough that the truck idles nicely at 700 RPM and still gets 17MPG on the highway 32K miles Featured in Chevy High Performance article about PCM tuning (yes, this features the AWD burnout Picture, and this is the truck in it) Buy the truck and I will tell you how we did it Has colormatched spray in bedliner (really nice) Downsides of the truck, I used this truck like a truck for parts hauling and our Rental Home business, it has some scratches here and there (looks great from 5 foot) I will get some detail pics on these. The bed has a few dings on the bedrails from items getting lifted in and out of the truck. Darn AS&M headers want to leak at the collectors. Seems like every year or so I had to do a new gasket on one of the collectors. I think the Muffler may have too much backpressure for the truck and is causing part of the issue. Interior is in very nice condition with normal wear, no rips/tears, etc.... We do have 5 kids between us so there have been plenty of back seat riders so the normal little scratches on the interior door panels from them getting in and out is there. Had it to the track once after the heads/cam upgrade and ran mid 13's. Built the trans shortly after and never got a chance to take it to the track again, but it should run low 13's with the non slipping built trans. Thinking of testing the waters at $22K to $23K for this well know, FAST, hot rod truck, but feel free to wing some offers my way. I don't get to the PM box often so drop me an email at [email protected] I just sent it up for detail today, I will get some pics in the next day or two. Thanks, Bryan
  7. If you have never heard of MTI (motorsport technologies) out of TX then it is pretty obvious you are a newbie to the performance business yourself. No offense, but MTI has been around for YEARS and has a great reputation as a shop and is definitely not the Johnny come lately who will dissappear after 6 months to a year like so many others that pop up now and then and then dissappear.
  8. Hi, Yes, that 05 5.3 PCM can be used in your 06 6.0 I might have to do a crank relearn for you after swapping the PCM in for you, but they are definitely interchangable. For local guys we do the programming for $175 since we don't ahve to do the exchange PCM, shipping ,etc.... I am around every afternoon and also can do it in the evening for you if that is the best time that is available for you. Thanks, Bryan [email protected]
  9. Hi, We only need to update it if you make a major change like head and cam work, supercharger, gear changes, etc.... Simple things like cold air intakes and exhaust do not require a PCM update. We are reachable anytime via email at [email protected] We offer email tuning as well, and can email HPtuners files, LS1 edit files, and Tunercat OBD2 files and we do it for $100 Thanks, Bryan
  10. Hmmm, very interesting stuff from a newbie with very few posts. Also ironic that your only other posts link you and Quik together. Do I need to say more...? The only reason I caught flak over on LS1 tech is that I was defending Joe Price from JPR racing a few years back. Turns out the guy was ripping people off and he sold me on the fact he was a good guy, but, he wasn't and I was backing the wrong guy for sure. Defintely my mistake, and due to that I don't hang out at LS1 tech often. On tuning big setups vs bolt on's vs. etc.... I agree 100% it is much easier to tune a vehicle that is a bolt on over a bit HP setup. The more parts you change the more variables there are. Small cam setups and bolt on setups are very repeatable and a tried and true tune will prove itself out time and time again with them. When Quik originally asked for a tune he was running a cam in his truck very similar to the one in my 04 SS (which has run 13.5's on a cam that doesn't even have durations over 220). The truck gets 16 to 17 MPG on the highway and has never stalled. Truck also made almost 380 RWHP on that little cam. It was after that that he changed to a cam that is much larger that really in my opinion should be dyno tuned. It is one that can be done mail order, but at that size would work best dyno tuned. It really is hard to hit 100% on mail order, especially on heavily modified cars. You can only go with what you know has worked time and time again on the dyno. When there are oddities such as mechanical issues, aftermarket MAF's, melted O2 sensor wiring, etc.... everyone comes to the tuner first to blame. The key is to try to help them thru the problems (if they will listen). I won't sit here and say that 100% were all a dead on bullseye, it just doesn't happen, but, I can say that better than 95% do hit. This is why I can do the volume I do without any advertising in Magazines, and on boards like LS1 tech, etc... I advertise here because I liked the board and I own an SS, I advertize on CZ28 and the Impala SS forum, and I think that is it. I do most of my business by word of mouth from happy customers. As far as looking intelligent, it is funny how my post contains a bunch of facts about the program, that if anyone would like I can email to them so they can look at it themselves with LS1 edit (I used Edit as I was around well before HP tuners and EFI live were), and your post is a bunch of words thrown in with poor grammer, spelling issues and even a few cuss words. I will let my posts talk for themselves while you and quik work on growing up. PS- I am pretty sure who you are, and you really aren't anyone at all in the community, so anytime you want to argue feel free. Take it to PMs or email me at [email protected] and I will argue all you like. Otherwise I will not get into a pissing contest on a forum, it always makes vendors look bad.
  11. Guess it's my turn to speak up since this post was pointed out to me. First, I did not recieve any email 2 weeks ago from you. I am up to date on email and anyone else here that has cooresponded with me recently can verify that. Do you know how to pick up a phone? I answer it 10 hours a day. Second, I just looked over your program....... Let's see what has been changed in this program you say is a stock 6.0 program Power enrichment table--- Was changed to match a dyno tune I did recently for a cam your size Injector constant--- for your injectors Idle--- Bumped up for your cam Volumetric Efficiency table---- Adjusted in the low end for start up and light throttle open loop fueling Timing table---- Timing was bumped up 4 degrees up to .56 grams/cyl timing was bumped up 7 degrees from .6 grams/cyl and above I kept the WOT timing after the .64/.68 grams/cyl area soft as you planned to shoot a 125 shot of N20. Thus I had to back off 5 degrees of timing there. I tried to keep it a bit more agressive up to the spray point, but that is tough to guess where the break point will be without having the truck on the scanner here. Also, I rather be a bit short on timing than be heavy and blow it up and have you piss and moan about that. Base timing table---- Timing was added at idle ranges to help create more vacuum and a better idle TM delted Shift points set up for your cam Shifts firmed Rev limiter moved Gears corrected, top speed limiter moved Rear O2's shut off and cat checks shut off in a way to have them come up ready. NOW, here's your problems. You keep getting MAP codes. This is a legit code indicating a problem. The other codes will not ready till you fix that. Reasons for a MAP code.... Vacuum leak Timing chain a tooth off Improperly set up valve train bad MAP Once you fix your mechanical problems..... Your truck will run good. You can't tune around poor mechanical work, good luck if you think you can..... As for the guy you referred, he shipped the PCM to the wrong address that is no longer on our website for a while now. I had to drive 2 hours to go get it. Then he shipped it with no name on it, no paperwork in it other than a page from a summit magazine with the cam he chose circled. He shipped it from a postal center so his name was not even on the label. He finally called and I realized it was his and he gave me a bunch of crap that I "should have remember it was his as we had talked the week prior". I get 30-50 phone calls a day and do around 40 to 50 LT1, LS1, truck, chips, etc.... a week. I can't remember them all guys, I need info in the box so I know who's PCM it is. I got him fixed up right away when I got all the info I needed and shipped out the PCM the same day, and the program I wrote for his LT1 I know he will like. I think we are all good I'm a really easy guy to work with and since I travel to the Indiana PA area often I probably would have even been up to meeting up with you and helping you work on this in person. BUT, you took no effort to call, but instead because you claim I didn't respond to 1 email that I never even got from you think you can't get in contact with me? Then you come on here whining like a baby. Your grammer is horrible, and you are not using any common sense by modify your only means of transportation that much. That is just asking for problems. At this point I really can't see me going out of my way to offer much more help. Any time I tried to point you in the right direction you would doubt me. I can only lead you to the water, I can't make you drink. Well, that's my part of this. I dont' have time to be online on forums much so I won't be watching or replying to any posts on this. If anyone would like to contact me or get any details or have any questions on this answered feel free to email me at [email protected] or call me. My number is on our website and I answer it M-F 9am to 7PM Have a good weekend all, Bryan
  12. Tony, If it is still pinging drop it over my way and I will pull some of the timing out for you. It's sort of a catch 22, you try to run as much timing as you can because guys want to make as much power as possible, but in areas like CA I have to be conservative due to the poor quality of gasoline. It is an easy adjustment though. On the shifting stuff, what I think is happening on the downshifts on the trucks with shift kits is that the shift kit is allowing the downshifts to mechanically happen quicker and thus it goes up to tap the limiter. What I am going to do is go thru and make the downshift settings in the PCM less agressive on the trucks with the shift kits. Later, Bryan
  13. Unfortunately the 03 trucks were wired differently than the 02's and the PCM would not be able to be used in your Escalade. Byran
  14. Also remember your extra cubes will help eat up some of the cam size and you won't have to go to some of the extremes to get it to idle. If you need any help offline just drop me an email. Bryan
  15. I will often double the P/N delay as it seems to keep the transition from park to reverse, reverse to drive, etc... better under control. What it does is wait to start making throttle position changes for the idle when going in and out of gear. If you don't have a delay often it will surge the idle when going in and out of gear as it starts to make it's changes and then seems to get confused. Also do the timing add to the base spark in park and in gear as these are your closed throttle timing tables. I usually just go with 26 degrees for a smaller cam and 28 for a larger cam up to .32 or .4 This also helps create more vacuum at idle as well as helping burn the mix. For part throttle driveability make sure to put extra timing in the light and part throttle areas as it will help make up for the down low inefficiencies of the cam and will make your part throttle response better. 850 is a pretty high idle. If you have a fairly tight converter it will pull hard at lights. If the cam is in the 214 to 218 duration range with a 114 LSA I shoot for 650 (have my truck idling smooth at 600 ) If the cam is 218 to 222 I go for 700 If the cam is 224 to 226 I go for 750 For 228 and up I will typically go for 800 to 850 depending on the LSA. The smaller the LSA the higher the idle. The rest of what Ben has is good stuff. Hard to believe something useful came off of LS1 tech, I though they were always too busy b#itching at each other, measuring their D*cks, and Racing their dyno sheets Just kidding, there are some great guys over there that know their stuff, but there are a bunch of pikers too....
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