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RofC

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Everything posted by RofC

  1. So I had the following codes that came up: P0455 Probably my evap canister, the pump was clicking off every 2-3 gallons on my first fill up, now just once in a while when I start filling. I had the loose/leaky fuel cap message from the DIC yesterday. P0650 Possible malfunction indicator lamp issue or bad ECM. P0654 Instrument cluster issue or bad PCM. B1440 Ignition switch issue or bad BCM. B2600 Faulty Left Park/Daytime Running Lamp issue or bad BCM. B2610 Headlamp And Panel Dimmer Switch or bad BCM. U1000 Was related to the instrument cluster, communication fault with the module. Going forward, I'll do a ground connection check everywhere I can and unplug/plug every connector, might as well start there and see if codes come back. The P0650 is bugging me because i never saw the CEL light up, just the battery light. Cluster related? The cluster has never been refurbished so I feel like doing it myself. I just hope sourcing all the bits besides LEDs & steppers ain't a pia. Having 3 codes with a possible bad BCM as the cause makes me think it might still be the main issue. I'll update as things progress.
  2. You might be better to pm him as he mentioned not always getting forum notifications from this aging thread.
  3. I've read through quite a few battery drain topics on here but none seemed to have my specific issues/symptoms. I bought my '06 SSS a couple of weeks ago, it had sat for about 8 months. I was aware of a power drain issue taking 2-3 days to flatten out the battery. The only symptoms initially were the radio, clock & instrument cluster lights staying on after turning off the engine & opening the door along with the battery light coming on. After doing my initial fill-up, the 4 gauge cluster group read high, battery gauge was jumping & hitting 19v, speedo, tacho & tranny temp were ok. Two days ago I drove it to work, 8 hours later the battery was dead. Got a boost, the gauges reset correctly but the other symptoms persisted... There's also an aftermarket subwoofer/kicker/amp setup along with a cd changer, the woofer doesn't woof & the radio Aux function won't switch to the cd changer. Could be an entirely unrelated issue though... aftermarket amp power is disconnected for now I did a parasitic power draw test with a multimeter, had a major drain from the radio and smaller ones from the amp, onstar (info fuse), IPD/DIC & IGNE circuits. 23 amps total. I took apart the dash, center console & bottom door trim, inspected all the aftermarket wiring for the amp/kicker and the cd changer (seemed güd), the only wire i didn't trace all the way back was a brown one coming from the cd changer & heading up to the steering column along the main aftermarket amp power wire. Then I took out the instrument cluster & radio, disconnected them and plugged everything back in. Went to do another parasitic power draw test in case it was caused by a bad connection I had shaken up... no more power drain! It read 1.3 amps for 5 minutes, dropped to .08 for a few seconds then went to zero. Connected the battery, started it, no battery light in dash, gauges reading true. Turned it off, opened the door & the radio turned off along with the dash lights. So logically here, bad behavior (radio, cluster lights staying on, gauges suddenly to the right) - partially reset by a drained battery (gauges reset) + sudden instant power drain involving radio, amp, onstar & DIC circuits - corrected by wire wiggling & hours long battery disconnect. Does this point to a bad BCM or am I just dealing with a bunch of separate gremlins & got lucky today? I'll try and get a scan done this week, see if any bcm codes pop up (apparently none might even if?!).
  4. Well I might just go nuts like yourself, it's winter so I don't intend to drive it too often, I can have it in pieces for a while. Also my cluster issues might just be a symptom of something else, the electrical issues i mentioned in OP have upgraded to total battery drain in less than 8 hours. I hope it all has to do with failing alternator diodes, I'll get the multimeter out later today.
  5. Thanks for the welcome guys! Realized the stepper motors in the instrument panel are all off big time, I'll be sending that in for repair. Found a guy not too far that will do it with an LED backlighting upgrade & a new lense for 300$. One year warranty on parts & labor.
  6. Managed to put my hands on a very well maintained truck, 250K Kms (155k burgers) undercoated yearly but never driven in winter & always slept in a garage... pretty much a needle in a haystack in Canuckland. New shocks, balljoints, brakes, exhaust, alternator, hoses & belt. Runs & drives great except for some play in the pitman & idler arms so that'll be my first job on it. There's a cd changer, amp & sub I want to take out, something is wrong with the wiring and the radio won't switch to Aux with the cd changer turned on nor does the sub work. Hopefully doing that will solve the electrical issue. When I turn the engine off & open the door, the dashlights and radio stay on. The battery light in the dash lights up for a few seconds as well. Also, it intermittently turns on when I start the engine, if i turn the engine off & on again it goes away. The fun of buying a used truck!
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