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Everything posted by 1981evildisco

  1. That’s pretty cool man. I wonder if the factory Brembo kit would work as well from that model year. I personally am going to get the Wilwood kit.
  2. Hey dudes, I had an idea. Anyone ever notice that roll pans make our trucks look like they have flat butts? No one makes NASCAR style roll pans. What I mean is a mini bumperette. who would get one? I for one would, no truck deserves a flat butt from the 90’s. kinda like this: https://theracingwarehouse.com/product/24-raphael-lessard-2021-gms-bumper/
  3. where did you find these???? I need to know!!!
  4. Rear diff going out. Probably the bearings.
  5. In order to change over you’d have to completely swap the fluid. Like use a Tech 2 programmer to push all of it out. Even if it is compatible make sure you change all that stuff out.
  6. Personally I used QA1s in the rear and Bilstiens in the front. I made a post about it a couple years ago.
  7. I have not fan into that issue, but I do suggest pulling the Cluster and checking the back of it/wiring.
  8. Bought my ISS with 108k Currently with 211k Ive routinely changed all fluids(replaced Trans Servos on the back of the pan when I broke them accidentally) Replaced the water pump with an ACDelco Replacement(did T-stat while in there)@210k It does need the driver side seat foam/cover/seat heater element replaced.(I believe the previous owner was a big dude) Other than that it has not required any unscheduled maintenance.
  9. I have bilstiens in the front and QA1s in the rear. The fronts are a little soft(only a couple thousand miles on em). The rears are double adjustable and I love em. Stock ride height
  10. QA1 makes ones for the rear. If you search for the thread, I posted a write up on it.
  11. I took mine to a body shop, they trimmed it to fit and riveted it into the OEM scoops. Love it.
  12. Sanders... Absolutely. Many curse words were said during the creation of this write up.
  13. http://www.atra.com/Dash/PartsID/01%20Part%20ID.pdf http://www.grail-ss.com/GRAIL%20Website%20Files/4L60ETechGuide.pdf Heres some reading material. PM me, I have a pdf I could email you that would be handy.
  14. In order to prevent buttpain as I suffered doing the aforementioned maintenance, Im going to set up a simple step by step guide for this service. This is by no mean all inclusive, nor will I accept any liability for damages/injury incurred as a result of this service. This guide is based on the best available information. Im this write up I will be strongly recommending the replacement of the A and B Transmission control solenoids. Reasons for this: You are already in there, they improve shifting, are cheap, and easily replaced. I am assuming you have the TCI Deep Cast Trans Pan (stock will be similar and easier, but we arent here for stock or easy) Quickly look underneath the Trans to verify you have the deep pan. If there is a step down by the exhaust midpipes, you have the deep pan if not you dont. If your pan has no drain plug. GET AN AFTERMARKET DRAIN PAN. Reason: the pan without a drain plug makes a massive mess and makes an easy task irritating. The TCI deep pan is awesome, very sturdy and made in USA. Had mine for a couple years no issues, looks and works great. Tools: T30 Torx bit(preferably on a 3/8ths socket) 15mm deepwell/Shallow well socket 3/8ths ratchet 3 and 8 extension 4 post lift or ramps(if using ramps ensure you have the parking brake and a chock block for the rear wheels) A jack (screw type if using a lift) Patience A breaker bar Torque wrench RTV Magnetic small parts holder or cup Assistant if possible Drain pan Parts: 6 Qts Castrol Dextron VI Synthetic oil(call dealer with vin to ensure which Dextron Spec fluid your year trans requires) SL1007 Delphi Or AcDelco transmission Control Solenoid 24208576 AcDelco Deep Transmission Filter. (Double check part numbers) Step 1. Get the truck on the lift and raised so that the transmission is at eye height. - if using ramps Id suggest using 4 so that the whole truck is raised. (Use chock blocks and parking brakes regardless) Take keys out and put them somewhere secure Get hood completely open, and pull dipstick out and wipe it clean. Place dipstick on the air filter housing. Step 2 Loosen the rear trans mount nut (inside crossmember under output shaft housing) (15mm socket) Step 3 Remove the (2) 15mm nuts holding the exhaust midpipes to the mount on the passenger side of the truck immediately next to the rear trans mount bolt. Doing this will facilitate the removal of the pan. Step 4 Remove the (2) Torx bolts from the bracket holding the drive selector cable on. Move the bracket to the side. Do not attempt to remove the cable from the bracket, this is unnecessary. Step 5 Place the drip pan underneath the Trans. Loosen and remove the drain plug. If you are working with the stock pan, may the maintenance gods have mercy on your soul. But in all seriousness make sure you have a steady hand and try not to get ATF everywhere. Step 6 Place the jack underneath the output shaft housing. Jack up until you see the fuel lines get on the body, you may have to squish them up there a little bit but be careful not to break the plastic mounts. Step 7 Start loosening/removing the capscrews holding the pan on, there are 16. When you get to the last one be careful the pan may want to fall on you. If it isnt, get the pan unstuck so it is held only in place by the exhaust/ accumulator. Step 7 Remove the filter, this is hard to explain, but when you see it it will come to you. The filter is located to the front of the pan, towards the middle. Step 8 Having your faithful assistant pulling down on the exhaust that is in the way, pull out the pan. Step 8 Remove the Trans Pan, this is a pain. Use the patience from the tool list. Step 9 (if replacing the Trans Solenoid) Take a picture of the valve body on your phone. Find the solenoid(driver side rear of the valve body) Replace the one closest to the drivers side first(this one is spring loaded) keep your thumb on the back of it while taking the screwdriver and prying off the clip. Replace using opposite procedure. The Solenoid closest to the passenger side B is not spring loaded. While replacing both of them ensure you put the clip in the same spot you found it and ensure the solenoid bottoms out completely. Check valve body against your original picture. Step 10 Reassemble in reverse order as disassembly. Step 11 Recheck all torque specs, and ensure you do not have any spare hardware. Step 12 Fill trans with 5 qts. Check dipstick. Go for a test drive, get fluid up to operating temp. Recheck dipstick, ensure you check it while in park with engine idling. Thats all there is to it.
  15. I have 199k on my intimidator, it runs great. It'll take a lot to get me to sell the thing. These trucks are old but they are worth keeping if you don't care about having the latest and greatest.
  16. What were the part numbers for the factory fronts?
  17. Good point. I should have provided more detail: The original hardware was Metric 10.9 rated hardware. I replaced it with Grade 8 Fasteners, so its comparable and there is a metal sleeve running through it.
  18. Check out my post about the Rare Parts Steering Components(Inner and outer tie rods)
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