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Everything posted by Stickman03SS

  1. Hey Guys, I was wrapping up a complete brake hard line and rubber brake hose swap out and I noticed something that seems contrary to my memory with regards to the front differential in our AWD trucks. With the front end on jack stands and while putting the left front tire back on, I noticed that I could grab the front rotor and easily spin it. Memory tells me that when in park, neither the left or right front wheel can spin. I walked around to the right front and the rotor is restrained by the differential/transfer case/transmission and rotates on a minute amount before it stops. I thought that both sides should be unable to rotate when in park, at least per my memory. Do I have an issue or is my memory wrong and all is well? Thanks! Jim
  2. Bump. I have the same issue in my 2003 AWD SSS. I blew a hard brake line and can't find a Dorman kit besides the 919-101, but they claim it isn't for our AWD SS trucks. It seems to be for 4WD 1500 trucks. only, but I can't find definitive answers. Has anyone tried the Dorman 919-101 kit or used an other successfully? The Classit kit is nearly $400, while the Dorman is under $100. Granted the Classic seems to include the braided line upgrade for the flexible lines. My 16 year old son is driving the truck while I drive my G8 and I want it safe for him, so I want to do all the brake lines. This was originally an east coast truck, so the underside definitely shows some rust on alot of the lines. Any information would be appreceiated.
  3. Thanks for the input! I will try to keep an eye on it.
  4. I am interested in buying a rear bumper cover, preferably in blue, in very good to excellent condition. Mine was cracked in a couple places during a recent theft attempt and I would prefer to put on a different one in lieu of trying to repair mine. I am in the Tulsa, OK area. Jim Reynolds
  5. Richard, thanks for the input. I did notice that the bore of the housing is really scored in a chaotic pattern. I watched videos and scoured forums for ideas and then got either brave enough or stupid enough to use a large screw driver to force it back to off. I figured at that point I was going to try the housing next, so I used a large screw driver to force it into off with the cylinder out. After some prayer and I some brute force, I freed it up. It still has a rough feeling so I might still have to replace the housing, but at least I drive it. I might be able to clean up the bore with some sandpaper, but we will see how it goes. It might clearance things, kinda like a Nascar cup car with a Darlington stripe and damage around the tire opening.? Thanks again for your input. You were spot on. Jim
  6. Replaced the 3 position lock cylinder with a 4 position one and still have the issue. Key turns the truck off but is in accessory position and won't turn any further. Do our trucks have a steering wheel interlock system that locks the wheel when in park and the key is off? I honestly can't remember. I am at a loss and am probably going to have to take it in.
  7. Hey guys and gals. I had my SS stolen a couple weeks ago. They did find it, but insurance totaled the truck and I bought it back. Now trying to fix the damaged areas myself. The biggest headaches are in the steering column area and gear selector cable. I was able to replace and adjust the cable and that seems okay. One of the remaining issues is the ignition lock cylinder and key. The thieves appear to have put in another lock cylinder, but they must have bought the wrong cylinder or damaged something else. When we found the vehicle, it had a key stuck in the ignition, but you could not turn it to the off position and remove the key. I found the battery negative cable disconnected and reconnected it. I could start the truck and turn the engine off, but it would not go to the fully off position, leaving the dash lights on. I bought a new lock cylinder, MPN LC63200 from Advance Auto. The ignition lock cylinder was easily replaced, but no help. It still will not go to the fully off position. I see talk of 2 lock cylinders.....one with accessory and one without. I don't recall my key going backwards (counterclockwise) to an accessory position. I remember it going clockwise one notch for the accessories to run without starting the engine. My truck manual that came with the truck from GM says it should be as I remember, with 4 positions....off, accessory, on, and start. Not sure if I am just plain stupid and not reading things right or if there is something else amiss. I doubt anyone has dealt with this, but I thought I would ask. Has anyone replaced their ignition lock cylinder and have the part number/store info for the part? Or any other ideas as to what could be keeping it from going into the off position? I hope this makes sense. Please ask questions, if I need to better explain the predicament. I might even take some pictures of the damaged area tomorrow. Thanks in advance for any help!! Considering selling it as is. Jim - 918-406-6412
  8. It might also be located on top of the frame rail near the back of the truck,
  9. Hey Everybody. I am need of some assistance. My SSS was stolen and recovered about week or so ago. Insurance is calling it a total loss, but I am fighting them on that. Lowballing me on payout and I really don't think it should be totaled. My question is this......where is the VIN location that is supposedly on the frame near the from suspsension? The VIN tag on the dash, the VIN sticker in the glovebox and on the door jamb are all three missing. If it indeed it totaled and I buy it back, it would help finding this last VIN location. It should also be embedded in the computer, provided they didn't swap computers or changed it via HPTuners, etc. They had already put a new VIN tag in the dash. The police confiscated that. Thanks for any help you can provide. Picture of the location would be a bonus. Thanks! Jim
  10. I have a 2003 Blue one with just under 90k miles and new engine at 62k miles just after I bought it. If I was to sell it (I have been toying with the idea), but I would need to get closer to $20k, maybe a bit more of less depending on the market. I have not offered it up officially yet. Just thinking about it. I have a 75 K5 2wd Blazer with a LQ4 in it and they keep competing for upgrades!
  11. Are you looking to stay within a certain price range? Jim
  12. Thought I would raise the question about anyone running the LSA supercharger on our trucks, since there are now kits out for our trucks that include the head to supercharger adapter plates for the cathedral port heads. I got the pleasure of driving a 2017 Chevy SS with the LSA supercharger and it was a pure adrenaline rush. It had a cam and a few other goodies and made 715 whp on E85. With kits for our trucks running as low as $4300, it might be a viable way to boost our trucks. Of course, I am not trying to take away anything from the Maggie, Whipple, or any other supercharger. Just curious to see if anyone had made plunge since the past posting in 2013.
  13. Thanks Shannon! I appreciate following up on this. I will definitely keep you guys in mind if I decided to go with the 2.3 Whipple. I might even consider some of the other brands or even the Procharger. Still trying to figure out if I want to invest in mine or move up to a 2014 or newer truck. Thanks again!
  14. Not sure if this is appropriate place or topic to post, but I will give it a shot. I was contemplating a supercharger for my SS and I would prefer the Whipple 2.9 Liter unit you see on the SS sedan and other direct injection LS engines. When doing internet searches, our SS trucks seem to only have the Whipple 2.3 liter unit max until I ran across a kit on Black Bear Performance website that says it is the 2.9 unit, but looks like the 2.3 in the picture. I have reached out to them on their website, but not heard back. I apologize to Black Bear if I am being impatient (in a good way I hope), but I thought I would make that inquiry here, hoping they might see the post or other SS owners might comment. Here is their link. Let me know your thoughts on whether this is the 2.9 or 2.3 liter unit. Their claim for HP and torque increase sure sound like a 2.9, but the pictures and part numbers would indicate 2.3. I sure hope it is the 2.9. http://store.blackbearperformance.com/Whipple-Superchargers-29L-TruckSUV--2003-2006-48L53L60L_p_1359.html
  15. Are you still looking for a blue SS?
  16. Do you have pics showing their condition?
  17. Here are some pictures. Still trying to decide if I want to hang on to it or sell. I currently have two 3 inch Dyomaxx Race Bullets that go into a 3 inch dual in/dual out Dynomaxx UltraFlo X. It then goes into my original y-pipe and tailpipe combo. The y-pipe portion had to be broke down and reclocked so the pipes were horizontal to line up with the UltraFlo X out pipes. You probably remember that the stock muffler out pipes are cockeyed compared to horizontal as you can see in the pictures. Are you going to try and hook back up to your stock y-pipe/tailpipe combo?
  18. Just for my edification, were the 8.1 injectors the 36 or42 lb GM injectors? I have seen both referred to as 8.1 injectors. I currently have the GM 36 lb version in my SS and have been wondering if they will be big enough for a supercharger or if I will need to get bigger injectors. Thanks for any info you can offer. Jim
  19. I still have my stock muffler. I am not sure long the input and output pipes are. When we took it off, we tried to keep as much of the pipe intact of the mid and tail pipes. I will try to take some pics and then decide if I want to sell it. Jim
  20. Hey Travis,I am thinking about selling my blue SS. Not a done deal, but I thought I would at least test the waters. I am thinking about a new truck or a Chevy SS sedan, so my SS would have to go. Let me know and I can share more details. It is a really nice one, with 82k miles (20k on new GM installed long block due to catastrophic failure after possible oil pump issue). I am in the Tulsa area, so I am not too far away. Jim Reynolds Forgot to mention thoughts on price. I was going to advertise it for $22k with a little wiggle room depending on offers.Jim
  21. I had the Dynomax Ultra Flo X with turndowns. A really nice deep rumble, but it was a bit much for the highway. I recently took that off and put in Dynomax 3 inch race bullets (two) and ran them through my original tailpipe. Similar deep tone, but quitter on the highway due to the tailpipe I believe. I have a 1975 K5 2WD drive Blazer with a 6.0, long tubes, Brian Tooley cam running through 2.5 inch Flowmaster series 50 delta flows. Ran 40 series before that. The 40 series were more tinny than the Dynomax. The series 50 delta flows were deeper than the 40 series, but not as deep as the Dynomax. I wish my Dynomax were a tad quieter, but I still prefer over the flowmasters.
  22. Thanks for the input, especially on the fitment of the headers on our SS's. Please don't take this a me being argumentative, but are you sure about the ceramic coating flaking on stainless? I am an engineer by education and have a metallurgical engineer who sits next to me and I asked him a few questions. Stainless steels will rust over time, but way slower than mild carbon steels. I did some reading about the coating and most sites seem to recommend coating, even on stainless, and I didn't see any complaints about flaking. I wonder if surface prep is critical to avoid flaking or if these people have not had them long enough to see flaking. My turner just bought a set of Manzo 2 inch stainless steel long tubes for his G8 and he is sending them off for coating. I will keep researching for a good place to do coatings locally and see what they recommend. Like I said, please don't be offended. I just want to be sure and do the right thing, even if it is to leave them alone or buy a different set. I do like the price of the Speed Engineering components but want to have them last. Thanks again for the input. Jim
  23. Does anyone have any experience with Speed Engineering long tube headers and mid-pipes? The mid-pipes come with mufflers and turn downs, but I will likely stick with Dynomaxx race bullets and factory tailpipe for now or give them both a try for comparison. These are a more affordable header and mid-pipe combo over the ARH headers and mid-pipes, but I know that sometimes you get what you pay for. I currently have a custom tune, CAI, IAT breakout harness and sensor, and 36lb GM injectors. Thanks in advance for any input you guys can offer. Thanks!
  24. I talked with my G8 buddy who also owned a GTO with the LS2 cathedral port heads. He said the GTO guys have put on LS3 heads and intakes on their LS2 engines for years with an increase in power at lower RPMs with a smaller cam due to the increased flow. The L92 heads and intake should respond that way too. You will that small increase in compression as stated above. I hope that helps!
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