Stickman03SS

Hey Guys, I was wrapping up a complete brake hard line and rubber brake hose swap out and I noticed something that seems contrary to my memory with regards to the front differential in our AWD trucks. With the front end on jack stands and while putting the left front tire back on, I noticed that I could grab the front rotor and easily spin it. Memory tells me that when in park, neither the left or right front wheel can spin. I walked around to the right front and the rotor is restrained by the differential/transfer case/transmission and rotates on a minute amount before it stops. I thought that both sides should be unable to rotate when in park, at least per my memory. Do I have an issue or is my memory wrong and all is well? Thanks! Jim

Bump. I have the same issue in my 2003 AWD SSS. I blew a hard brake line and can't find a Dorman kit besides the 919-101, but they claim it isn't for our AWD SS trucks. It seems to be for 4WD 1500 trucks. only, but I can't find definitive answers. Has anyone tried the Dorman 919-101 kit or used an other successfully? The Classit kit is nearly $400, while the Dorman is under $100. Granted the Classic seems to include the braided line upgrade for the flexible lines. My 16 year old son is driving the truck while I drive my G8 and I want it safe for him, so I want to do all the brake lines. This was originally an east coast truck, so the underside definitely shows some rust on alot of the lines. Any information would be appreceiated.

Thanks for the input! I will try to keep an eye on it.

I am interested in buying a rear bumper cover, preferably in blue, in very good to excellent condition. Mine was cracked in a couple places during a recent theft attempt and I would prefer to put on a different one in lieu of trying to repair mine. I am in the Tulsa, OK area. Jim Reynolds

Richard, thanks for the input. I did notice that the bore of the housing is really scored in a chaotic pattern. I watched videos and scoured forums for ideas and then got either brave enough or stupid enough to use a large screw driver to force it back to off. I figured at that point I was going to try the housing next, so I used a large screw driver to force it into off with the cylinder out. After some prayer and I some brute force, I freed it up. It still has a rough feeling so I might still have to replace the housing, but at least I drive it. I might be able to clean up the bore with some sandpaper, but we will see how it goes. It might clearance things, kinda like a Nascar cup car with a Darlington stripe and damage around the tire opening.? Thanks again for your input. You were spot on. Jim

Replaced the 3 position lock cylinder with a 4 position one and still have the issue. Key turns the truck off but is in accessory position and won't turn any further. Do our trucks have a steering wheel interlock system that locks the wheel when in park and the key is off? I honestly can't remember. I am at a loss and am probably going to have to take it in.

Hey guys and gals. I had my SS stolen a couple weeks ago. They did find it, but insurance totaled the truck and I bought it back. Now trying to fix the damaged areas myself. The biggest headaches are in the steering column area and gear selector cable. I was able to replace and adjust the cable and that seems okay. One of the remaining issues is the ignition lock cylinder and key. The thieves appear to have put in another lock cylinder, but they must have bought the wrong cylinder or damaged something else. When we found the vehicle, it had a key stuck in the ignition, but you could not turn it to the off position and remove the key. I found the battery negative cable disconnected and reconnected it. I could start the truck and turn the engine off, but it would not go to the fully off position, leaving the dash lights on. I bought a new lock cylinder, MPN LC63200 from Advance Auto. The ignition lock cylinder was easily replaced, but no help. It still will not go to the fully off position. I see talk of 2 lock cylinders.....one with accessory and one without. I don't recall my key going backwards (counterclockwise) to an accessory position. I remember it going clockwise one notch for the accessories to run without starting the engine. My truck manual that came with the truck from GM says it should be as I remember, with 4 positions....off, accessory, on, and start. Not sure if I am just plain stupid and not reading things right or if there is something else amiss. I doubt anyone has dealt with this, but I thought I would ask. Has anyone replaced their ignition lock cylinder and have the part number/store info for the part? Or any other ideas as to what could be keeping it from going into the off position? I hope this makes sense. Please ask questions, if I need to better explain the predicament. I might even take some pictures of the damaged area tomorrow. Thanks in advance for any help!! Considering selling it as is. Jim - 918-406-6412

Thanks Richard. Jim

It might also be located on top of the frame rail near the back of the truck,

Hey Everybody. I am need of some assistance. My SSS was stolen and recovered about week or so ago. Insurance is calling it a total loss, but I am fighting them on that. Lowballing me on payout and I really don't think it should be totaled. My question is this......where is the VIN location that is supposedly on the frame near the from suspsension? The VIN tag on the dash, the VIN sticker in the glovebox and on the door jamb are all three missing. If it indeed it totaled and I buy it back, it would help finding this last VIN location. It should also be embedded in the computer, provided they didn't swap computers or changed it via HPTuners, etc. They had already put a new VIN tag in the dash. The police confiscated that. Thanks for any help you can provide. Picture of the location would be a bonus. Thanks! Jim

I have a 2003 Blue one with just under 90k miles and new engine at 62k miles just after I bought it. If I was to sell it (I have been toying with the idea), but I would need to get closer to $20k, maybe a bit more of less depending on the market. I have not offered it up officially yet. Just thinking about it. I have a 75 K5 2wd Blazer with a LQ4 in it and they keep competing for upgrades!

Are you looking to stay within a certain price range? Jim

Thought I would raise the question about anyone running the LSA supercharger on our trucks, since there are now kits out for our trucks that include the head to supercharger adapter plates for the cathedral port heads. I got the pleasure of driving a 2017 Chevy SS with the LSA supercharger and it was a pure adrenaline rush. It had a cam and a few other goodies and made 715 whp on E85. With kits for our trucks running as low as $4300, it might be a viable way to boost our trucks. Of course, I am not trying to take away anything from the Maggie, Whipple, or any other supercharger. Just curious to see if anyone had made plunge since the past posting in 2013.

Are you still looking for a blue SS?

Do you have pics showing their condition?