someotherguy

Pretty sure you'll only get it, if you got it WITH the truck. From what I've read on here, trying to get one after the fact is pretty much futile. Richard

Really! Thanks for the clarification. To me it doesn't look any lower but I guess I've seen so many modded SS's that it gets easy to confuse stock vs. a little drop. Doesn't help though that when I think of lowered trucks, I'm in the mindset of 4/6, 5/8, stuff like that. I used to run a '92 extended cab longbed that I static dropped so far down that I dragged my gas tank strap on driveway transitions. Before I did the Caddy clip conversion, I ran without a lower valance and would park it by bumping the sway bar frame brackets up over the curb. Man I miss that truck. Richard

I'm still newbie to SS's but I'm pretty sure that's not true. The advertising information for the ISS seems to imply it has upgrades over the SS but it's just poorly worded IMO; it seems more to me that they're explaining the upgrades over a regular Silverado. As far as I can tell the ISS vs. SS differences are purely cosmetic. Richard

'06 for me so it's RWD. We don't need AWD down here. I dig the Intimidator wing but don't really care much about the emblems or the logos on the headrests, nor the "signature" on the cluster. I'd just as soon it be a regular SS. Not a Dale hater, just not a fan, never much got into NASCAR. Richard

Yeah, I've seen both of those and they do look pretty good. Baller design reminds me a lot of some of the Vossen wheels the Mopar and Euro guys are running. I'm not a big fan of cast; I like the lightweight of my Centerlines but dammit man I'm just not going to lay out the huge bucks just to end up bending them in a pothole or come out to some jackass put it up on blocks and FO'd with them. Thanks for those 2, I do like them, I'll just have to see if I can make myself buy cast wheels again. Richard

Which seems weird to me, since I'm "6 lug" now; back in the day it was always tough to find something cool in 5 lug for my '94. I really don't like the OEM chrome wheels, not a fan of the TBSS replicas though I will say the members here with them, your trucks look great. Just not my style. Amazing how much billet wheel prices have gone up in the past 5 years or so. I remember the 20" Centerlines I got for my '94 really didn't seem expensive, but now I can't even remember what I paid, over 7 years ago...no way in hell do I see myself laying out $3K for a set of wheels and then still need to buy tires. I want to stick to 20" or 22" maximum; I've bent enough wheels running Houston that I could never go bigger than 22" and am suspicious of those already. Plans to drop the truck 3/4 in the future so whatever I get has to fit without running a teensy tiny tire. I know it's a big wide open question, but any thoughts? Richard

If it was an R/T it's just the 5.7 - older gen @ 370HP. Older gen SRT8 is 6.1 @ 425hp, newer gen SRT8 or badged 392 on the side that's the 6.4 @ 470 hp. The 2015 bumped the 6.4 to 485 hp. Beating a Hellcat would be a feat. Not that they're the end-all but for box-stock off the showroom floor, they sure as hell are impressive! Richard

You have a few hundred pounds on him but I'm betting that Maggie under the hood gave you some edge. ;) Poor guy only has 370 HP ya know. Watch out for those Mopar boys. More than a few of them boost-crazy too, and some of them with serious strokers under the hood. It costs a lot more to mod a Mopar, the aftermarket isn't as big so prices are through the roof, but it hasn't stopped the hardcore! Richard

Nope, mine was out of Louisiana, salvage title over crash damage - crunched in the right rear. Got my bedside, rear corner cladding, and a few other items on the way. Truck actually runs and drives great, nice interior, cold air, all the goodies seem to work (except crappy HID retrofit), Pioneer touchscreen radio and amazingly the remote was still in the console. Even the owner's manual. Surprising, considering it went through the salvage auction. It'll remain to be seen whether it was a good deal or not, by the time I finish spending money on fixing the crash damage. Richard

The locking unit used in GM fullsize trucks (RPO G80) is the Eaton Gov-Loc and you should not use any kind of additive with the gear oil. There's a TSB out regarding this; friction additives that are typical for posi units can cause the Gov-Loc to not operate properly. I've seen the conflicting information about this but you can rest assured, the Gov-Loc wants regular gear oil, no posi-style additives. Richard

Not trying to put stink on a guy's for sale ad, it looks like a nice truck, but here are 2 things that caught my eye. 1. Says "Price for this weekend only!" "If not sold by Monday I'll just keep it!" ... ad is 23 days old and still up 2. Truck is in "for sale by owner" but has a TX temp tag on it - but not a buyer tag, it's an authorized agent/dealer tag, meaning it "belongs" to the dealership, and 10 seconds of detective work shows the guy works at an Audi dealer. So while the truck does look clean and has a few extra goodies, price isn't bad! Don't let anyone fool you into thinking it's their baby and they can tell you all the history on it - when it's almost surely a dealership trade-in. Nothing wrong with that, just don't fail your due diligence. Richard

I think my salvage title Intimidator with same miles (actually a few less) must be worth more than the 20K they're asking for this one. Richard

Go back and check out the undercarriage pic, post #6. Also keep in mind if you're from a rust area you're "used to it" - those of us where stuff doesn't rust, kind of hard to accept rusty vehicles. I once bought a '68 Coupe de Ville from Ohio and every time I had to work on it, I swore I'd rather push it out into the street and set it on fire. Every bolt was a battle, and an eyeful of rust flakes that always seemed to get past my safety glasses. Speaking as a guy that actually had to go to the hospital to get them to pluck shards of metal out of my eye with a needle then buff my cornea with a dremel, I'll pass on a repeat of that! Richard

Wow! 19K, they must be charging extra for the oxidation treatment. The frame has "patina" Richard

OK, I ordered up some parts today. Passenger bedside rear cladding, tailgate lower cladding strip, taillights, headlights & signals (they're just hazy/nasty beyond restoration), getting moving on fixing this truck up. Pretty sure I'm txting back and forth with Tyson06's buddy about the bumper, hopefully can arrange for him to ship it to me (totally willing to pay what it costs to ship; I don't expect him to cover that!) And missed out on the freaking bid for a tailgate Intimidator script. Oh well. Richard

Man, old "for sale" posts like this with no "sold!" sure make you wonder. That was (is?) a killer deal on some BonSpeeds. And local to me. Just...2.5 years ago. Richard

A month-old ad in Houston craigslist guy selling a whole set of SS seats, front and rear, nice shape (except 1 seatbelt) for $1000. Seems like someone would need the fronts more than the rear, and the rear would be leftover. http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/5124670060.html I know; not much of a lead but there it is. Richard

I 100% understand people want the certificate of authenticity but it's pretty easy to tell without question whether a truck is a real Intimidator. Run the VIN. If it comes up with RPO code SSI that's the Intimidator SS package. Of course it'll also be on the SPID label in the glovebox. The label could be faked, but the record of those RPO codes attached to the VIN cannot be. SSI SALES PACKAGE SILVERADO SS, DALE EARNHARDT, INTIMIDATOR EDITION DALE EARNHARDT INTIMIDATOR SILVERADO SS EDITION(SSI) Richard

Bought it wrecked; nobody paying for these repairs but my pocket. Richard

Here's an easy one, I hope. Anybody with an Intimidator - could you measure the scripts on your doors and tailgate, not including the SS...and post back? I know the tailgate one is about 1" narrower total, but I don't have the actual measurements and the truck is at a body shop across town. Thanks! Richard

There are a bunch of door scripts for sale. Guy has a whole pile of them. $$$$$$$ ($350 for 3) and too big for the tailgate. As it turns out, the knockoff decals are also all door-sized. So I can't even use those. 1BAD2K - man you killin me! ARGgg! Richard

EXGM - problem is, I can't find the tailgate script available new anywhere. Only the door script, which is too large. There's a copy of them available but it's very obviously not the same (to me.) Richard

It's similar to the SS, just thinner material, and much narrower lines so it's fragile. Since the tailgate is smashed, I don't have to worry about damaging the paint, so I can -probably- remove each piece with a razor blade laid sideways. What will be even tougher though I suspect is cleaning each piece up enough to be able to apply new double-stick tape. For example, just the dots on each "i" are individual pieces. Richard

Pretty sure the body shop is going to want to replace my tailgate instead of fixing it, even if they did fix it they would have to paint. I've seen you can get OEM Intimidator script but it's crazy expensive and also only the door script. It's noticeably larger than the tailgate script, at pretty much an inch wider, it would put the SS emblem too close to the center. Failing a source for a new tailgate script, looks like my only option is to try to carefully remove it and reapply. Body shop doesn't want to bother and I don't blame them, but I would like to try it myself. Anybody else done this? Tips? Sure looks like a pain; lots of individual pieces and some of them quite small. Richard

Thanks, was pretty sure but not having a bunch of GMT800 truck experience thought I should ask! Richard