someotherguy

By the way I noticed your status update requesting spam be reported, I'm happy to, but please do cruise by the off topic/general section and it's a whole freakin' list of spam. Not just replies to old posts but a bunch of more recent posts that are 100% spam Richard

Man, that's great news. I just visited on the off chance something had changed and WOW what an improvement. No more passing by just to see the entire forum list with nothing but spam bot crap. Thank you so much for cleaning it up. I know the member base is falling off as the SS platform ages but there are still plenty of them out there and this site has by far been the best resource for SS-specific info I've found. Richard

That reply is from 2016, trust me those badges are long gone. When I was rebuilding my truck in 2015 they were already hard to find. The larger scripts for the doors were fairly easy then but the slightly smaller one for the tailgate was tough. These days I think all you'll find are the crummy copies (puffy/shiny vinyl sticker things) that are all the same size. If you do find some real ones be ready to pay. $$$$ Also this forum has been completely overrun with spammers to the point almost no real members ever visit anymore. Plenty of good information here in the older posts but if you want a forum that has real people instead of just spam bots you might look elsewhere like performancetrucks forums (they do have an SS/VHO section but it's sleepy.) Richard

(would've sent this in PM but it says you can't receive PM's) Hey, good to see someone from the moderators team active on the forum after what seems like a total absence for a while. Anything we can do about the spam bot takeover? It looks like some of it has been squashed, but a few sections are still overrun with it. For a while there the only new posts or replies anywhere were all spam, which makes the forum look dead to the world. I had reported several in the past but nothing was ever done so I just quit reporting. Thanks, Richard

You're better off not using a Dorman axle anyway. I don't even trust the cardboard their crap comes in. They might offer a few useful parts but I'm not sure what they are.. And yes, your SS has a locking rear differential, you'll see the G80 RPO code on the service parts ID (SPID) label in your glovebox. It's the Eaton Gov-Loc unit. Since you have the cover off and will be needing to re-fill the gear oil, it's a great time to bring up this is not a posi unit, so don't put any posi additive in with the gear oil on re-fill. Just use plain 75W90 synthetic gear oil, as indicated by GM in your owner's manual. Richard

From "Duke75140" on GM-trucks dot com forums: "I used to fix a ton of these for the local Chevrolet and GMC dealers when I worked in a body shop. Start with the glass closed and latched. From the inside, door open or closed, lightly push out on the glass. If there is noticeable movement then the latch is not pulling the glass down tight enough to seal it. Now, continue at your own risk because you can break the window latch. Pull loose the upper part of the trim panel to gain access to the latch area. Disconnect the glass from the latch if you can but it is not absolutely necessary. Now, we used an extra large pair channel locks (or slip-joint pliers) heavily taped because it will scratch the paint and gall the plastic latch. The "lower" jaws of the pliers will go all the way to the metal "flange" where the window frame is glued. The "upper" jaws go over the latch but off to the side a little so you are not on the little bar where the window snaps in. Be careful to not be on the outer seal either. Now basically all you want to do is roll the latch toward the inside of the truck. It doesn't take much. Too much force will break the latch. When done properly there should be very little movement when you push on the glass from the inside. I would say this fixed 80% or more of these wind noise complaints." There's also some latch fix-it kits for sale on ebay that you could try. I wouldn't bother though unless there's movement in the window as described by Duke ^^^ if the window isn't moving then the noise is probably coming from elsewhere. The latch fix is a slightly longer latch piece to pull the window in a bit tighter, vs. bending the latch inwards as Duke describes. Two different methods to achieve the same result. Richard

Don't personally know but recommend you ask over on performancetrucks dot net instead, as this place has been totally taken over by spammers. They even are spamming each other at this point. No responses from admins (nonexistent I suspect.) Richard

Advice at this point is just move on over to Performance Trucks, they have an SS-related subforum on there that is kinda sleepy but the forums in general are pretty active. And they actually monitor spam reports and kick out asshats like the one that is filling this site full of spam/malware links Richard

I gave up reporting spam posts a while back because the ones I reported are still here. Just sent a message to the "admins" but looks like nobody's paying much attention anymore, if at all. It's too bad. Richard

NOW.. the site has officially died. No attention paid to spam reports.. there's spam posts happening right now, plus many that have just existed for months and months, never getting deleted. Sucks.. there's more new spam posts than new posts from real members Richard

I'd take a real close look at the current stock ride height before worrying about which kit or parts you're gonna buy. A 2/4 drop might be typical on a regular Silverado, but the SS is already closer to level ride height than a non-SS. Might be why the kits you're finding aren't what you expect. Richard

Welcome, sounds like a cool project - and I'm sure you'll be able to recoup a lot of your investment selling off the SS-specific parts as all that stuff is in demand. Even if the body kit is beat up and brackets rusty, etc. don't trash any of it before seeing if someone can use it. I'm no expert by any means but the difference between the SS and a regular Silverado 4WD is not much, in terms of chassis. Obviously the transfer case is AWD instead and the ride height is a bit lower, but it's otherwise a Silvy 4WD with the torsion bar front end setup. Throw up some pics.. let's see what you're working with! Richard

cool story bro

Wish I had better info for you. Best of luck on your trip! And while I really hate to point anyone away from this forum, it really has pretty much died off in the last couple years.. I still visit, participate where I can, and hope others will too. However, I'm on several forums, and one that is a lot more active and relevant to our trucks is performancetrucks dot net - it's definitely more geared towards modified trucks than stock, but there are a lot of knowledgeable people there (and some of 'em are on here, too.) You might check it out. Richard

It happened to me one time and one time only (knock on wood) on my 2006 when it had maybe 80K or so on it, and cycling the key made it go away. I looked into it a little bit as it worried me that it might pop up again, and all I could find online were mentions of throttle body problems, but none of them seemed to have confirmed it was the solution. If you do some creative net searching you might turn up better info than I found a few years back. Since your CEL is on, you should be able to pull some codes and see what it's telling you, might be helpful. Easy enough to spend a few bucks on even a simple code reader - I've got the BAFX Products bluetooth reader (under $25 and connects more reliably to everything I've used it on vs. the cheaper ELM327 readers), and Torque Pro app for android, $5.99 last time I looked. Richard

Are you still running the 4L65E? No matter what you've done with it - next up, 4L80E swap. Go ahead and get you that transfer case adapter on order and shop for a trans. Your 4L65E isn't strong behind the stock LQ9; it's not gonna live behind 625hp/565tq. Richard

Well that sucks.. hope the new owners take care of it! I'm not a "long time" member or anything as I previously was addicted to GMT400's forever, but have had my Intimidator since 2015 (bought crashed from Copart and fixed up) and my wife's silver birch 06 SS since 2016 (bought from 1Fastbrick.) Still enjoying these trucks as fun daily drivers. Richard

Wow; that sucks.. are you 100% sure the engine is bad, though? I'd try to get some local recommendations on a trusted shop to give you another opinion. There's an O-ring on the pump that can fail and cause low oil pressure. There's also of course a failed oil pressure sending unit that will freak you out with a low oil pressure reading/warning tones, but it's a false reading - if the engine isn't ticking, clattering, etc. then you know it's just a bad sender. $9K for a stock LQ9 replacement? That sounds like dealership cost on a GM crate long block plus other parts, materials, and labor. I can't recommend any of the aftermarket suppliers as I haven't bought any engines from them, but you can get an LQ9-based engine with more horsepower for less than $9K. Keep in mind there will be other requirements like custom tuning. I'd spend some of my budget on a Ravelco antitheft system.. Richard

"Like an SS" without the LQ9, body kit, or anything else.. LOL That's some home-made mess right there! Richard

Man.. that's some hellacious end links there on that rear sway bar. Richard

GM calls it a "switch opening cover" - part # is 15178169 and you can find them new still, with no emblem letters in it, just the depression in the plastic for the letters to fit into - if that's the emblem you say you already have, then you're set. Search ebay for that part # a guy has been selling them for quite a while for about $40. Richard

Quickie tape measure with the tab up against fender lip, measure to center of wheel I've got 20.25"~20.5", checked both sides just to get the range as I haven't seen a vehicle yet that sits completely dead level. Also figure you're not shooting for rocket science accuracy here for torquing down your suspension, either. Richard

I can get this for you tomorrow.. already in bed not gonna throw clothes on just to go out for some measurements. The trucks here are '06 RWD SS but shouldn't be any difference in stock ride height AFAIK. Richard

That would be an Intimidator SS spoiler (or repro) missing the bed corner pieces. Rare as rocking horse shit.. I mean, the repro's are out there, quality is so-so. Original parts - good luck Richard

Pretty clean, Welcome.. The door handle issue is likely just the rod slipped out of the handle; the plastic retainer probably got brittle and let go. It's easy to take it apart to see what's going on. Memory is a little vague but I think mine did the same thing not too long ago and it was such a simple fix I've already forgotten. IIRC I used a spare retainer I had hanging around from an old tailgate handle. Richard