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Everything posted by someotherguy

  1. Welcome, sounds like a cool project - and I'm sure you'll be able to recoup a lot of your investment selling off the SS-specific parts as all that stuff is in demand. Even if the body kit is beat up and brackets rusty, etc. don't trash any of it before seeing if someone can use it. I'm no expert by any means but the difference between the SS and a regular Silverado 4WD is not much, in terms of chassis. Obviously the transfer case is AWD instead and the ride height is a bit lower, but it's otherwise a Silvy 4WD with the torsion bar front end setup. Throw up some pics.. let's see what you're working with! Richard
  2. cool story bro
  3. Wish I had better info for you. Best of luck on your trip! And while I really hate to point anyone away from this forum, it really has pretty much died off in the last couple years.. I still visit, participate where I can, and hope others will too. However, I'm on several forums, and one that is a lot more active and relevant to our trucks is performancetrucks dot net - it's definitely more geared towards modified trucks than stock, but there are a lot of knowledgeable people there (and some of 'em are on here, too.) You might check it out. Richard
  4. It happened to me one time and one time only (knock on wood) on my 2006 when it had maybe 80K or so on it, and cycling the key made it go away. I looked into it a little bit as it worried me that it might pop up again, and all I could find online were mentions of throttle body problems, but none of them seemed to have confirmed it was the solution. If you do some creative net searching you might turn up better info than I found a few years back. Since your CEL is on, you should be able to pull some codes and see what it's telling you, might be helpful. Easy enough to spend a few bucks on even a simple code reader - I've got the BAFX Products bluetooth reader (under $25 and connects more reliably to everything I've used it on vs. the cheaper ELM327 readers), and Torque Pro app for android, $5.99 last time I looked. Richard
  5. You can eat a sack of dicks, too
  6. Are you still running the 4L65E? No matter what you've done with it - next up, 4L80E swap. Go ahead and get you that transfer case adapter on order and shop for a trans. Your 4L65E isn't strong behind the stock LQ9; it's not gonna live behind 625hp/565tq. Richard
  7. Well that sucks.. hope the new owners take care of it! I'm not a "long time" member or anything as I previously was addicted to GMT400's forever, but have had my Intimidator since 2015 (bought crashed from Copart and fixed up) and my wife's silver birch 06 SS since 2016 (bought from 1Fastbrick.) Still enjoying these trucks as fun daily drivers. Richard
  8. Wow; that sucks.. are you 100% sure the engine is bad, though? I'd try to get some local recommendations on a trusted shop to give you another opinion. There's an O-ring on the pump that can fail and cause low oil pressure. There's also of course a failed oil pressure sending unit that will freak you out with a low oil pressure reading/warning tones, but it's a false reading - if the engine isn't ticking, clattering, etc. then you know it's just a bad sender. $9K for a stock LQ9 replacement? That sounds like dealership cost on a GM crate long block plus other parts, materials, and labor. I can't recommend any of the aftermarket suppliers as I haven't bought any engines from them, but you can get an LQ9-based engine with more horsepower for less than $9K. Keep in mind there will be other requirements like custom tuning. I'd spend some of my budget on a Ravelco antitheft system.. Richard
  9. "Like an SS" without the LQ9, body kit, or anything else.. LOL That's some home-made mess right there! Richard
  10. Man.. that's some hellacious end links there on that rear sway bar. Richard
  11. GM calls it a "switch opening cover" - part # is 15178169 and you can find them new still, with no emblem letters in it, just the depression in the plastic for the letters to fit into - if that's the emblem you say you already have, then you're set. Search ebay for that part # a guy has been selling them for quite a while for about $40. Richard
  12. Quickie tape measure with the tab up against fender lip, measure to center of wheel I've got 20.25"~20.5", checked both sides just to get the range as I haven't seen a vehicle yet that sits completely dead level. Also figure you're not shooting for rocket science accuracy here for torquing down your suspension, either. Richard
  13. I can get this for you tomorrow.. already in bed not gonna throw clothes on just to go out for some measurements. The trucks here are '06 RWD SS but shouldn't be any difference in stock ride height AFAIK. Richard
  14. That would be an Intimidator SS spoiler (or repro) missing the bed corner pieces. Rare as rocking horse shit.. I mean, the repro's are out there, quality is so-so. Original parts - good luck Richard
  15. Pretty clean, Welcome.. The door handle issue is likely just the rod slipped out of the handle; the plastic retainer probably got brittle and let go. It's easy to take it apart to see what's going on. Memory is a little vague but I think mine did the same thing not too long ago and it was such a simple fix I've already forgotten. IIRC I used a spare retainer I had hanging around from an old tailgate handle. Richard
  16. I did my own, it's not difficult, but decent soldering skills and equipment definitely recommended. My gauges were fine except fuel gauge stepper went nuts after I replaced a dead battery. Had a few bulbs out, too, so they all got done. Tanin Electronix has a kit with all the steppers and bulbs for a good price. I went kinda nuts after that and tore everything apart to replace bad bulbs including the A/C controls and the steering wheel switches. Richard
  17. Good looking '06 - my favorite year, got two of 'em 😃 Richard
  18. That sucks.. sounds like whoever did the install must have wired into circuits they shouldn't have. It won't get your truck running right away but I'd begin with having someone that can correctly identify the aftermarket install remove all of it, so you're not risking further potential for fire. Next up would be repair of the factory wiring that got burnt. Finally, start checking all the fuses both in the underhood center and in the driver side dash panel. Most likely one is popped in a circuit that is required for the engine to run. Richard
  19. Dude is a spam account douchebag.. it's been posting same/similar messages across numerous forums. These losers are getting more "clever" with their initial posts. "Parker95" you can eat a sack of 5 dicks, please
  20. Post you're replying to is 12 years old. Richard
  21. Welcome to the forum, sorry it has to be under these particular circumstances. Insurance company should be looking at ads for similar vehicles to yours, shouldn't be impossible for them to find several 2003 SS's for sale, to come up with a value. 2003-2005 are all pretty similar (although in 2005 you could get optional RWD instead of AWD) so you could broaden the search there a little bit, and compare miles as well. Ebay has a 2003 SS with 85K miles that sold for $16K - it detailed up nicely but does show frame rust in the pics, surely affected the sale price. https://www.ebay.com/itm/334156756985 On the other hand here's a 2006 SS (RWD only) with only 3600 miles that appears to have sold for $47K but it's practically a brand new truck. https://www.ebay.com/itm/284452314443 Richard
  22. $225 shipped from Tony @ TBSSOWNERS, if you don't mind waiting a little bit for them to arrive. At that price I suspect he waits for several orders to come in for BT parts before he places his order with them, which is understandable. I think mine took about a week or so to arrive. Sometimes his communication is spotty, but for the price.. ya know? Richard
  23. Yeah part #'s seem to have changed slightly over the years; the ones I got for my black 06 SS aren't exactly the same as the ones I just got for the silver 06 SS. Both sets ordered from Tony/NorcalSS. It seems the newer part #'s are spec'd for SUV's also, when I looked them up on Belltech's site. You can go nuts trying to figure out on their site which shocks are correct for your SS. The #'s Tony just sent me are 2412FF and 310400, for a stock height 06 SS. Firmed up the ride quite nicely as the OEM shocks were toast. Richard
  24. None of the regular ones look right on the SS due to the added body kit (cladding) - there are custom roll pans specifically for the SS. Look up BSER and DKKUSTOMS for more info. Richard
  25. I'm no expert on them but I'm pretty sure those are both the 149 t-case, compare the tags on each. There may be differences just because the different application. Richard
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