Jump to content

someotherguy

Member
  • Content Count

    923
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    18

someotherguy last won the day on July 10

someotherguy had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

34 Excellent

About someotherguy

  • Rank
    Veteran SS Member

Previous Fields

  • Owns
    SS
  • Silverado SS/VHO/TrailBlazerSS Color
    Black
  • SS/VHO/TrailBlazerSS Year
    2006
  • Drivetrain Config
    2WD
  • Build Date/TPW
    08-30-2005

Profile Information

  • Name
    Richard
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Houston, TX

Recent Profile Visitors

663 profile views
  1. someotherguy

    WTB: 2004-2006 Escalade passenger exterior door handle

    I did that to get a no-key handle on the driver side...the rear mounting stud is not in the same place. Had to get my body man to cut the tab off the door and relocate it. . Richard
  2. What exact fluid went in? Was it marked for posi-trac units? Was posi additive used? If so...that's the wrong stuff, and can cause incorrect lockup of the factory locker. Eaton Gov-Loc (RPO code G80) uses just plain gear oil, no posi additive. EDIT - lol my bad, I thought your post sounded familiar. You had just posted about similar issues previously. Richard
  3. Some jackass tried to break into my truck last night and screwed up the front passenger door handle. Busted the grab handle part and gouged the bezel so I need the whole thing. Black bezel with chrome grab handle. GM original part only please, don't wanna buy aftermarket. Also gotta be from the front door; rear is different.. GM part # is 15182419, pretty sure it has to be 2004-2006 because earlier ones may have the keyhole on the passenger door. Need the no-keyhole style. Thanks! Richard
  4. someotherguy

    Hola from Baja Mexico!

    Welcome, I was vacationing in your home town.. oh.. 34 years ago. Loved it. I'm sure it's changed a bit. Stayed at the Hotel Sol Mar which I believe no longer exists; it was on the beach at the Pacific side of Land's End. Friend of mine went there many years later and it looks like they knocked it down and built some huge hotel complex in its place. Richard
  5. someotherguy

    Need parts for INTIMIDATOR SS

    The emblems for the exterior? You won't want them used; they're too fragile and are likely to break pulling them off a truck. In fact when I had mine painted I replaced them anyway because they were showing signs of sun damage. You can get the Intimidator scripts brand new if you hunt hard enough. The door scripts are easier to find; it's the tailgate script that is a little bit narrower so that it doesn't crowd out the SS emblem. The non-original copies of the scripts that are all over ebay etc. are just vinyl puffy stickers and are not correct to originals whatsoever so please skip those. I got the tailgate script from online Chevy dealer IAMGMPARTS if I recall; will edit back with the part #'s when I dig through my file in a little bit. Of course the SS emblems are the same exact ones used on the regular SS truck. The dash insert...you gonna have to get it from someone willing to part with one. I know there's probably someone here that has one though. EDIT - part #'s Intimidator scripts for doors - 88980874 - best price I found 3 years back was $153/ea Intimidator script for tailgate - 88980875 - same deal 3 years ago best price I found was $157 - this is the smaller one correct for the tailgate. SS emblems - same for doors and tailgate - 15178666 - around $80/ea If you're restoring though you're laying out good money for paint and bodywork, may as well only go with brand new emblems. When you compare 'em to the old ones you won't regret it. Yes it's over $700 for 6 emblems total, which in reality, is only about 10% of what high quality paint/body is gonna cost. Richard
  6. Someone may have changed the gear oil as regular maintenance. If so, and they put "posi" additive in it, that could be the cause. The Gov-Loc specifically does not require "posi" additive as it is not a posi unit. This is a highly-debated topic in some areas so if needed I can look up the TSB from GM that explains it; there's literally no argument. GM specifically states that use of those additives in the Gov-Loc can cause improper operation of the locker. It takes regular gear oil, and in your SS's case that would be 75W-90 synthetic. I'd start there - replace whatever is in it with the proper lube so you know that is correct; this will also give you a chance to look inside and get an overall feel of the condition of the differential. Check the amount of crud attached to the magnet, sitting in the case, and feel the edges of your gears, etc. Richard
  7. someotherguy

    Hello from TN

    I say, own nothing but toys. I've got a 300 SRT8 in the garage and two SS's in the driveway. You can't have too much fun. Whereabouts in middle TN? I've got family a little East of Memphis, little bro is an LS-nut. Richard
  8. someotherguy

    SSS buying opinions

    #3 sounds like the deal of the bunch. The mods will cost you some money but at least if you do them yourself you know they were done right, no corners cut, no mistakes made. It's half the miles of #1 so IMO that more than makes up for the cost of any mods you'll do. Also, if it's hours South of TN it's probably a rust-free truck unless it came from somewhere else. Or, if it's in coastal FL area - check it REALLY close for any rust, particularly the fuel and brake lines!!! If you see any rust either pass on it 100% or get a substantial discount. The one thing that detracts from it is the smoking - I hate smoked-in vehicles, but if it's not majorly stinky then you can get rid of the smell fairly easily. Used car dealers do this all the time. Rent an ozone generator machine. Richard
  9. someotherguy

    They got her... Stolen

    What the hell!! That's crazy, man I am sorry to hear it. I sort of get what the cops are saying but then again is the gps signal not evidence?? Richard
  10. Yep! Well not necessarily stock, just closer to it. It actually had the Volant but I swapped it for the K&N after putting a stock setup on my wife's SS. Richard
  11. someotherguy

    E Fan conversation, PLEASE HELP!!!!

    What size alternator do you already have? 145A in my truck, original. 2006 being OEM e-fan equipped. Richard
  12. someotherguy

    HID Lights

    It's tough to put anything other than the stock-type 9006 halogen capsule into the factory housing and expect it to make a usable light pattern. I will admit though that I do have DDM Tuning 35W HID's in my SS. They're...OK? Not great. I had some ballast failures in the past and spent a few bucks extra to "upgrade" to their better ballasts, and I still get intermittent failure-to-fire sometimes, and it swaps sides from time to time, so it's not like I can trace it down to one ballast or one capsule. LED's are tricky too because the same light pattern issues. Also, they're notoriously difficult to cool properly and the claimed outputs are generally -very- bogus. HOWEVER...if I was gonna spend money on some expensive LED headlight replacements, I'd check out Morimoto from the retrofit source. They seem to be the least amount of BS claims, and their 2Stroke 2.0 replacement for 9006 halogens are running $120 a pair right now, and carry a 3 year warranty. Pretty sure you'll be trimming your headlight brackets for any LED swap. Richard
  13. someotherguy

    Lurker Hinckley Oh

    Welcome, Not sure what to tell you on fair price but that's pretty low miles for a 2003! Well even for any year of Silverado SS at this point but especially a first year truck. If it's from your local area I'd inspect it VERY closely for rust although with 35K miles I seriously doubt it was driven in any bad weather. At any rate the hard lines for brakes and fuel tend to rust out very quickly on this generation of trucks if they're ever exposed to road salt or possibly even salt air (like from the coast) so check 'em as closely as possible. With those miles I'd say it's unlikely to have signs of problems of any kind. Some believe that low mile older vehicles are full of problems but I'm not one of those. One exception would be the tires; if it has ancient tires (check the date codes) then you'll want to replace them immediately - even if they're not dry rotted. If it does have any odd details, post back with your findings and others can offer advice. The truck is probably worth well upwards of $15K if it's clean. Richard
×