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someotherguy last won the day on October 31 2020

someotherguy had the most liked content!

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About someotherguy

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    *Elite SS Member*

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  • Silverado SS/VHO/TrailBlazerSS Color
  • SS/VHO/TrailBlazerSS Year
  • Drivetrain Config
  • Build Date/TPW

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    Houston, TX

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  1. Tough call on the price but ONE thing I can absolutely guarantee you is that garage-kept means a lot on a red example, if the paint and clearcoat is truly in top notch shape, no fading or peeling, that is hard to find... and anybody that has priced out a quality red repaint knows how expensive that can be. Materials alone are ridiculous. Good luck w/your sale Richard
  2. It's a problem on a lot of forums - use an external picture sharing site and then you can paste the "IMG" code into your message that the pic site gives you. IMGUR, etc. I wouldn't recommend photobucket after they shafted everyone trying to charge after years of free service. Richard
  3. Nah, activity kind of goes in spurts, but that's what happens with niche sites unfortunately! Plenty of us still here but surely only a very small segment of SS owners in the world. I looked around and couldn't find any way to list the entire membership of 32K or however many.. Richard
  4. Coming along nicely! I got the Corsa cat-back (traded another forum member for it) and dig it; it's a nice middle option between the ugly-loud Magnaflow I had on there and the too-quiet stock muffler. Have you tried those switchbacks with the engine running yet? I had some (totally different brand) in mine that worked great with the engine off but once it was running and system voltage went up a couple volts, the white running light function started strobing like crazy and eventually turned off. I've got some little voltage regulators I was gonna try to hack in but it seemed like I was having to do too much to make switchbacks work so I just put regular LED's back in there. No hyperflash on my truck as I've got the Novita flasher unit. Richard
  5. U60438 is the part # to the chip itself, not indicating any leg of it to cut. The only one you wanted to cut was the #7 pin that you already did. Weird symptom.. what if you swap the arrangement around? Incandescent out back, LED up front? I guess the only thing I would really caution you against here is not to remove/reinstall the LED's too many times as a lot of them seem kind of weak where the leads go up into the assembly, that's where I've seen more than a few break off. Are you 100% sure you got the correct part # on the LED's.. should be 3057/3157 style (dual function) front and rear. Richard
  6. (scratching head) you did see that he posted in 2016 these items are sold, right? Richard
  7. Nothing unusual about them service-life-wise vs. a regular Silverado, if you ask me. At 100K yours is probably due for front hub bearings and possibly some front end parts. It sounds like you've kept up with maintenance so it wouldn't be from lack of greasing but typically things like the ball joint boots tend to eventually go bad so the joint gets contaminated and goes bad. I've done hub bearings on both our 06's in the last few months as they've recently both passed 100K. I did the intermediate steering shaft / column bearing combo on my truck around 80K-something and the other truck has needed it for a while but it apparently the clunking doesn't bother my wife. Replaced all the stepper motors and bulbs in the dash cluster as the fuel gauge stepper crapped out when I replaced the battery. Figured while I had it open, just tend to all of it. Oil cooler lines replaced somewhere around 100K on my truck, not a fun job, not super complicated just a pain to wrangle. Her truck's lines seeping a little bit but not bad yet. Richard
  8. Yeah, if it's doing it on startup, not likely the fluid level. I'd try cleaning the connectors on the ABS module with some DeOxit spray and hook 'em back up. That's a pricey module to replace. I thought we had a bad one on one of our trucks but in the end I'm about 99% sure it was a bad hub bearing. Richard
  9. If it happens when you really mash the brakes, check the fluid level and add a little bit if it's low. Generally I don't often add fluid to a brake system that isn't leaking, as the level goes down normally as the brakes wear.. but both our 06's seem to be hypersensitive with the sensor in the reservoir. No leaks on either truck but let that fluid get a little bit low, brake aggressively, and DING DING DING DING SERVICE BRAKE SYSTEM OMG Richard
  10. SS cladding is a whole lot different than the regular body molding on a non-SS truck. You see an SS missing any piece of cladding and it's real obvious, sticks out like a sore thumb. Not sure why OP is having trouble with his, maybe brackets are missing or damaged? Richard
  11. I'm not talking about the rod from the core support to the fender over the factory battery. OP is talking about mounting an aux battery up by the firewall; there's a curved bracket on each fender going to the firewall that I'm guessing he is saying one would be in the way. Richard
  12. Which bracket are you saying gets in the way.. the half-moon curved thing from the fender to the firewall? Not sure how important those are. My '06 was missing those when I first got it (no idea why) and I drove it like that for years without 'em. Only noticed they were gone when I got another SS and saw them, and said.. hey.. LOL so I grabbed a couple and installed. Richard
  13. You can put a cooling system pressure tester on it to see if it's got an external leak anywhere; under normal driving if it's not major it could be blowing away or evaporating before you can see it. If you don't see an external leak anywhere.. go ahead and borrow/rent the chemical block leak test kit. Read the instructions closely. It'll let you know if there's combustion gases in the cooling system, i.e. head gasket failure or cracked head(s). Richard
  14. Dammit man.. hitting it out of the park. What kind of #'s you expecting out of it? Richard
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