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someotherguy last won the day on October 31 2020

someotherguy had the most liked content!


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  • Owns
  • Silverado SS/VHO/TrailBlazerSS Color
  • SS/VHO/TrailBlazerSS Year
  • Drivetrain Config
  • Build Date/TPW

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    Houston, TX

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  1. Pretty clean, Welcome.. The door handle issue is likely just the rod slipped out of the handle; the plastic retainer probably got brittle and let go. It's easy to take it apart to see what's going on. Memory is a little vague but I think mine did the same thing not too long ago and it was such a simple fix I've already forgotten. IIRC I used a spare retainer I had hanging around from an old tailgate handle. Richard
  2. I did my own, it's not difficult, but decent soldering skills and equipment definitely recommended. My gauges were fine except fuel gauge stepper went nuts after I replaced a dead battery. Had a few bulbs out, too, so they all got done. Tanin Electronix has a kit with all the steppers and bulbs for a good price. I went kinda nuts after that and tore everything apart to replace bad bulbs including the A/C controls and the steering wheel switches. Richard
  3. Good looking '06 - my favorite year, got two of 'em 😃 Richard
  4. That sucks.. sounds like whoever did the install must have wired into circuits they shouldn't have. It won't get your truck running right away but I'd begin with having someone that can correctly identify the aftermarket install remove all of it, so you're not risking further potential for fire. Next up would be repair of the factory wiring that got burnt. Finally, start checking all the fuses both in the underhood center and in the driver side dash panel. Most likely one is popped in a circuit that is required for the engine to run. Richard
  5. Dude is a spam account douchebag.. it's been posting same/similar messages across numerous forums. These losers are getting more "clever" with their initial posts. "Parker95" you can eat a sack of 5 dicks, please
  6. Post you're replying to is 12 years old. Richard
  7. Welcome to the forum, sorry it has to be under these particular circumstances. Insurance company should be looking at ads for similar vehicles to yours, shouldn't be impossible for them to find several 2003 SS's for sale, to come up with a value. 2003-2005 are all pretty similar (although in 2005 you could get optional RWD instead of AWD) so you could broaden the search there a little bit, and compare miles as well. Ebay has a 2003 SS with 85K miles that sold for $16K - it detailed up nicely but does show frame rust in the pics, surely affected the sale price. https://www.ebay.com/itm/334156756985 On the other hand here's a 2006 SS (RWD only) with only 3600 miles that appears to have sold for $47K but it's practically a brand new truck. https://www.ebay.com/itm/284452314443 Richard
  8. $225 shipped from Tony @ TBSSOWNERS, if you don't mind waiting a little bit for them to arrive. At that price I suspect he waits for several orders to come in for BT parts before he places his order with them, which is understandable. I think mine took about a week or so to arrive. Sometimes his communication is spotty, but for the price.. ya know? Richard
  9. Yeah part #'s seem to have changed slightly over the years; the ones I got for my black 06 SS aren't exactly the same as the ones I just got for the silver 06 SS. Both sets ordered from Tony/NorcalSS. It seems the newer part #'s are spec'd for SUV's also, when I looked them up on Belltech's site. You can go nuts trying to figure out on their site which shocks are correct for your SS. The #'s Tony just sent me are 2412FF and 310400, for a stock height 06 SS. Firmed up the ride quite nicely as the OEM shocks were toast. Richard
  10. None of the regular ones look right on the SS due to the added body kit (cladding) - there are custom roll pans specifically for the SS. Look up BSER and DKKUSTOMS for more info. Richard
  11. I'm no expert on them but I'm pretty sure those are both the 149 t-case, compare the tags on each. There may be differences just because the different application. Richard
  12. You try searching car-part dot com for one near you? I just looked and there's a lot of 'em out there, prices all over the board. You're 100% sure it's the transfer case, before spending the bucks? Richard
  13. It's been discussed on some other forums and yeah, pretty sure that Brembo kit is a bolt-on. With a 16" rotor you'd need some good wheel clearance. I'm not sure the 22" Centerlines I've got would even work due to the inside-the-hoop valve stem placement. The wheel itself should clear but I'm worried the valve stem will hit the caliper. Richard
  14. Holy hell man, registration $400/year! I just renewed the wife's silver '06 and my 300 SRT8, $75/each, as well as the $25/ea inspection/smog check. The Intimidator is good for another couple months. At 142K I just had to throw another battery at it, the 4.5-year old Odyssey bit the dust with no warning. In a hurry I improperly diagnosed it as the 3.5-year old was-new-but-Chinesium-AC Delco starter going bad because the battery "looked" OK on the charger, but it must have a weak cell. Threw a starter on it for no good reason, so now I've got a good spare on the shelf.. Surprised the steering box needed replacement on you at 150K. Knock on wood, mine seems fine, but I've got another couple ball joints to do. Gotta do ball joints and intermediate steering shaft on the silver truck. Richard
  15. Maybe I should part my Intimidator out and stuff the drivetrain into something older. 😉 Just selling the Intimidator-specific parts should pay for the project vehicle to transplant into! Richard
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