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0patience

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0patience last won the day on March 12 2018

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About 0patience

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    SS Member

Previous Fields

  • Owns
    SS
  • Silverado SS/VHO/TrailBlazerSS Color
    Silver Birch Metallic
  • SS/VHO/TrailBlazerSS Year
    2005
  • Drivetrain Config
    AWD

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    Male
  1. ^^ Agree. I had a similar problem with my oil pressure gauge. It would intermittently read a little off and wasn't really noticeable. Then it would do all kinds of weird things. I did the stepper motor and LED conversion at the same time.
  2. Stepper motor. Read through a dozen or so of the posts in this topic and there are all kinds of links to the stepper motor replacement.
  3. Sounds good. I'm waiting for the monsoon season to let up here in the Pathetic Northwest. Then I can get some more work done on it.
  4. That one is a tough one. The bulb size is T-1 1/4 I haven't found a direct LED replacement yet for it. I'm still trying to figure out what to do. The problem I ran into is that the old bulb melted the slot the bulb goes into on the headlight switch housing and I'm having a hard time fitting an LED in there. It is either too big a diameter or the LED hits. I'm ordering a couple new incandescent T1 1/4 bulbs and going to pull the bulb out and solder the LED in and then probably have to use a drill bit to clean up where the plastic melted. The headlight switch and heater controls are proving more of a pain than the instrument panel was.
  5. Like this? I had to take the picture with the park lights on, as my camera just showed a huge light blob with the headlights on.
  6. They fit in the steering wheel switches, the cargo light switch and the heater controls, but not the headlight switch. The heater controls are a royal pain, and you have to be careful not to overheat the circuit board, as you can burn the printed circuit. I cut the leads shorter and bent them and then soldered. (see picture) The headlight switch takes a T1-1/4 bulb with a turn lock connector. Also, on the heater controls, you will want to have white LEDs for the red and blue around the knobs, because if you use blue bulbs, you will end up with almost white and not so red. Looks awful. And FYI, a hook pick helps a lot putting the steering wheel switches back in and at that, you will probably be cussing up a storm. Or at least I was. I'd like to catch the engineer who thought those were a good idea. A warning though, they are bright. So, if you do the steering wheel, you will probably have to turn them down quite a bit.
  7. LED are polar sensitive. The ones I had, have a long lead and short lead and the long lead was positive. I used a test light, plugged in the circuit board into my truck, turned the marker lights on and checked which side was power and marked it with a sharpie marker. These were the LEDs I went with. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011E8T9G2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And this is the stepper motors I went with. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KWRHVM6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You need a decent solder iron. I use "Sta-Brite" silver solder and has a liquid flux that you can use a toothpick to apply it exactly where you need it, and it is a little easier to work with. I will be installing the LEDs on my heater controls and headlight switch today. Between the Instrument panel, heater controls, headlight switch, I will probably use most of two 20 packs of LEDs. Youtube tutorial
  8. After I saw one done by someone else, I had the LEDs and stepper motor, so I finally took the time to do the upgrade and replace the stepper motor. I think it looks pretty good now.
  9. Good to hear and thanks for letting us know what you found. It may help the next person.
  10. The clockspring is the unit that handles the electrical in the steering wheel. Airbag, horn, steering wheel buttons and the electrical for those, runs through the clockspring. It is a ribbon of wiring that spools out and back in when you turn. It is about $250-$300 and if installed wrong, you can destroy it with the turn of the steering wheel, but can be done if you follow the proper procedures for the install. Is your airbag light on? Does the light go out after start up? If the airbag light isn't on, then the short may be isolated to the steering wheel switch and it may be possible to just live with it. But, be aware that it will eventually start to fail in other things. If the airbag light comes on and stays on, then you'll want to have the clockspring taken care of.
  11. If you aren't hitting the button when you drive, then it is possible that the button or possibly the wiring or clockspring are shorting and activating the display. Is it only on turns that it happens?
  12. Could be the oil gauge stepper motor or the oil pressure sensor. But you can pull the oil pressure sensor and hook up a hose and mechanical gauge to confirm what the oil pressure actually is. The stepper motor and the sensor, along with the sensor connector are known to fail with similar symptoms.
  13. Went to search for the poll for what color trucks everyone had. Probably could have found it by going thru the forums, but figured the search would bring it up quicker. So I type in "truck color", cause you know, I'm looking for the colors of the trucks. And I get this.... The following search terms are not allowed and were removed from your query: color So, trucks on a truck forum brings up tons. LOL! Kind of odd.
  14. I've search the forum and didn't find anything, but if it's there, I'll blame it on being old and bifocals. Anyway, I've been trying to locate where one would find the engine compartment replacement decals. The emissions decal and what ever else is in the engine compartment. My emissions decals is peeling and looks terrible. Plus I plan on replacing the panel and a plain black upper panel seems off to me. I looked all over GMpartsdirect, but still came up empty. Any ideas?
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