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marcello7x

Member
  • Posts

    80
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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  • Owns
    SS
  • Silverado SS/VHO/TrailBlazerSS Color
    Victory Red
  • SS/VHO/TrailBlazerSS Year
    2003
  • Drivetrain Config
    AWD
  • Modifications
    Shorties, 4 HID projectors, 30" LED light bar, Ported 799 Heads, ~228 Cam, cutouts

Profile Information

  • Name
    Marcello
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    mass

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  1. Bump! Getting closer to heading to Europe for the summer. Rather move this before I leave!
  2. My front output seal is leaking now tho. I had to beat the shit out of the old one to get it out. Not sure if i was supposed to use a special tool to put the new one in or not.
  3. Sorry about the Delay!!! Anyways, i got it out with some long nose irwin pliers from Lowes. It was a huge pain! As for getting it back in, i cut a piece of wood to the size of the hole. Use the handle of a harbor freight dead blow hammer to spread the ring as it was the perfect size. Slid it over as i pushed the ring onto the wood. Then slid everything together and pulled the wood out. If i had to do it again, i would make some sort of tool out of steal to slide in with groves to hold the ring better. I did replace the case. I bought it on ebay from "drivetrainlasvegas" Seems like great quality piece for a great price. Would buy it again. Half case was 150 Bearing Seal kit was 80 Chain was about 80
  4. The rebuild was very straight forward and easy!!! Mostly do to having rebuild a 5sp VW transaxle i've rebuilt multiple times. But regardless its simple. The hardest part was getting the big c-clip/snap ring on and off through the case. I did not replace the Big bearing on the input/rear output shaft. I didn't have the bearing tool and did not want to wait for one to come in the mail/ it was late and no where locally had one.
  5. marcello7x

    Dubai Marina

    I love the marina area!
  6. So I've noticed a fair amount of leaking on the Output of my trasfercase. When i was replacing the seal i found that i had quite a bit of play, then it continued leaking after the new seal as well. So i know Im in for a rebuild. Im at 215k, and have no idea if its ever been rebuilt[assuming probably once]. I plan on a new rear half, rear bearing and new chain. Although i may just order a full new rebuild kit with all the bearings. Suggestions on where to purchase the whole kit?
  7. I mean with mufflers and turned down before axle. And previously when i said i had a friend inside, i meant inside the house and heard me starting the truck in the driveway. He thought it was a thunderstorm at first.
  8. Im planning on a stall at some point in the 2800ish range. The cam is a bit too big for stock stall, hell i think its even too big for something in the 2800 stall range. BUT I got it dirt cheap, and im coming from all manuals. I didn't take into consideration stall speeds when i bought it. Im going to see how the truck responds to that size stall. If it still doesn't feel right i'll swap the cam for something a bit smaller. The cam specs are: 226/229 573/582 112lsa
  9. I'm on 4 months and do the same every day as well! Other mods have taken up my time, this is slated for when i return from Dubai in a few weeks. EDIT: OR today if i drink to much caffeine and skip chorus around the house.
  10. Costs actually weren't bad considering what i expected to spend. First 2 are from Jegs. Going to return them since i didn't end up replacing the gears. Gear and marking compound: 1 1 683-G885411IFS GM 10BL 8.25 REV. R/P 4.1 173.99 173.99 1 1 555-612200 GEAR MARKING COMP-1/2 OZ 3.99 3.99 I didn't end up using either one of these, so they're getting returned. Dial Indicator Set with On/Off Magnetic Base - $19.99 - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QXR2LA/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 GearWrench 2955D Beam Torque Wrench - $47.99 - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004SQ3B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 USA Standard Gear (ZBKGM8.25IFS-B) Bearing Kit for GM 8.25" IFS Front Differential - $86.14 - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D61FG68/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1BackLash locks + C clips from dealer: ~$10 or so. I got extra locks just in case, they didn't have any extra C clips in stock. Add in some MISC like 3-4 cans of brake clean, silicon sealant, harbor freight dead blow hammer and it came out to around $200.[Only because my gears were in good shape, otherwise ~$380] Also i didn't replace the pinion bearing so i could avoid the trouble of figuring out pinion depth. It was in great shape, as were most of the bearings. But since i was in there and had the issue of the spun races i decided to replace the rest of the bearings that came with my kit. One other thing to note[Feel free to bash here] I did no use the new crush spacer. I reused the old one. I could not get enough torque on the new one to actually crush it. Being my first rebuild on a diff i was worried about breaking something.
  11. Video fixed.... So is that much play normal? As for lowering I think I'm going to go the 3" control arm route. But I think rather put money aside for a torque converter first.
  12. Thanks for the advice, but I fixed it today. I looked up prices for new bars and realized they are different side to side and came to the co conclusion I swapped them when I cut off the old keys. Tested my theory today and I was right. Everything is back to normal. Stock keys cranked all the way down. Not bouncy or anything. Won't install lowering keys. Will go another route if I want to go lower.
  13. I had a pretty bad one as well....With my luck the bolt seized in the bushing of the spring. But you do not need to swap out the brackets if you're just replacing with stock or even a light drop set of shackles. Just remove the bolts from the hangers to the brackets. then jack up the axle till the upper bolt is accessible over the frame rails. If yours are that badly rusted i would start with PB blaster now, and soak them once a day for a week. Hopefully you won't have one seize up like i did.
  14. So i have torsion bars that can rotate quite a bit in the control arm. I went to install lowering keys before i knew i could just crank the stock ones down a bit. turns out everything was rusted and seized together on the key side. I cut them off and put on the new keys. The keys didn't even make contact with the lock and adjuster when back down on the ground. I was 100% only on the bumpstop. I had to clock it over a full turn to make use of them since the others were destroyed. This lifted my front end 1-2 inches So i ordered another set of purple[stock ss] keys and tried those. Thats when i found those went too low as well. After that i figured i would order stock 1500 keys which would theoretically lift my front end, useless as well. With those keys flipped upside down i was able to bring the front end back down to stock-ish height in front. Either my torsion bars have sagged, or the worn control arm is letting them rotate too much. The truck has 215k, any suggestions on which it is? https://youtu.be/W4_k3tkgB_8 Thanks!
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