DuvalMustangSS

Hey Guys, 04 SS with 175,000 My trans has been giving me problems the last two weeks. When I start the truck, reverse works fine, but when I put it in drive, rpms go up and truck doesnt move. A couple times I put it in reverse again, then drive and it caught,but not every time. Here is crazy part. I can put it in 1 and it drives fine! Only way I could get home is to go from park to 1, then 2, then 3, then drive. If the car stops at a light, I put it back in 1 and start over. I dropped the pan and replaced 6 qts of Dex6 and a new filter. Problem still there. There was not metal lakes or any burned smell in the fluid, just a little dark red. I searched high and low on Youtube and asked everyone I know that has ever used a screw driver, but not luck.If it was a broken gear or band, then there is no way the truck would run is 1, correct? Also, when I put it in drive, it doesnt roll backwards or forwards like if it was in neutral or 1st gear. Strange right!?! Please help!! Any help or ideas before I drop $1,000 to rebuild the trans would be very much apprciated. Thank you for reading this and any help you have

Hey Guys, 04 SS with 175,000 My trans has been giving me problems the last two weeks. When I start the truck, reverse works fine, but when I put it in drive, rpms go up and truck doesnt move. A couple times I put it in reverse again, then drive and it caught,but not every time. Here is crazy part. I can put it in 1 and it drives fine! Only way I could get home is to go from park to 1, then 2, then 3, then drive. If the car stops at a light, I put it back in 1 and start over. I dropped the pan and replaced 6 qts of Dex6 and a new filter. Problem still there. There was not metal lakes or any burned smell in the fluid, just a little dark red. I searched high and low on Youtube and asked everyone I know that has ever used a screw driver, but not luck.If it was a broken gear or band, then there is no way the truck would run is 1, correct? Also, when I put it in drive, it doesnt roll backwards or forwards like if it was in neutral or 1st gear. Strange right!?! Please help!! Any help or ideas before I drop $1,000 to rebuild the trans would be very much apprciated. Thank you for reading this and any help you have

Johnny I will try to call GM today and see if they have any record of this happeneing to other people. Maybe there was a recall or a defective part reported in some of the trucks. Evand, I replaced the cam, the timing set and lifters. I cleaned the push rods and all the other moving parts. All the bearings seemed good in the cam. I also am going to do a valve job and put new gaskets everywhere. I also am going to clean the hell out of every piece I can reach. Fingers crossed that it all goes back correctly and purrs like a kitten.

Thanks VRss. So just to make sure, you are saying to just line up the marks/notches on the two gears and don't worry about trying to put them in the exact same spot as the originals?

Pic of Cam Pic

So, I have a 2004 SS 140k. Always had a little bit of noise on the passe ger side, bit nothing too bad. Last week, CEL started blinking, car started making a noisey rapping noise, and finally shut off as I came off the highway. I suspected it was a stuck lifter that kept the valve open and was flooding the engine ( I also smelled gas in the exhaust btw). It also never gave a code on my code reader, which was weird.I got it home and started to disassemble foen to the lifter. Found one worn lifter on the pass side, but nothing huge. Then looked down the hole at the cam and saw that one of the lobes saw half way broken off. FML... I started to take off the front and pulled the cam out and it was shot. I also noticed my timing chain was very loose, but the teeth on the gears weren't too bad. Here is where I need help: 1) I am the second owner of the truck and the milage is pretty low all things considered. Is it worth trying to contact Chevy and make a stink about it. My guess is that the Cam was defected when the truck rolled off the line. If it was just some scraping or a chuck out of it, then I wouldn't think about it. The fact os that half the lobe broke off and I fished it out the oil pan. That is hardened steel and how the hell it broke like that has yo be a defect in the part or the steel. Your thoughts? 2) Any tips on installing the new Cam. I have never done one before and don't want to mess it up. Also, once I get the Cam in what about putting on the new timming chain and gears. I HAVE NOT TOUCHED OR MOVED THE CRANK SHAFT! But am worried about installing the gears and chains perfectly so I don't mess up the timing on the truck and the crank. Any tips on how to install the chain and gears and make sure they line up with the crank shaft gear so I don't make things worse once I reassemble and start using the truck again? Thanks for everyones help!

Hey everyone! I really need your help with this one. I have a 2004 Silverado SS with 110K on it. I am in love with this truck more than my own wife( don't tell her). Two days ago, I started hearing a mild knocking noise from the engine on the passenger side. It only happens when I hit the gas and not when it idles. Once it gets to 1500 rpm, it is a mild knocking/ticking. I am by no mans an automotive expert and by no mean an idiot. It first sounded like my belt was frayed or going bad. I popped the hood, belts are fine. I took it to my mechanic that I have used forever and trust and he took a brief look. His first thought was my exhaust pipe at the bend under the engine had a pin hole causing the noise. We checked in and that wasn't it. He kept it for a couple days an looked more into it WITHOUT OPENING THE ENGINE OR GOING TOO DEEP. He called his "GM conncet" and he said there is a coating or spray on the crank shaft and rocker arms in the 2004 6.0L's and it can come off and get into the rocker arm bearings and the lifters and cuase them to go bad. He also told me isolated the fuel injectors and the noise is from the passenger side #1 and #3 valves. The horrible news is if we replace the vlaves and the rocker arms and crack shaft and lifters, there is no gaurentee the other valves could go bad and do the same thing. His advice is to swap the entire engine and guarentee it won't happen again. This would be approx. 20 hours of work and thousands of dollars I do not have right now. MY QUESTION TO YOU: 1) Has this ever happened to anyone else? 2) Has anyone ever heard of this "coating" that is suppose to be on the engines to help with the higher racing rpms and performance? 3) If no, what is your best guess on the cause and solution? I am going to open the top of the engine up this weekend and take a look, but I do not know what this would look like if this coating is gumming it up. At 110K miles, this it nuts to have to swap the engine ESPECIALLY when there has never been a miss fire, engine light, and the engine is not shaking. Only a mild knocking/loud ticking noise PLEASE READ THIS AND HELP ME! I DO NOT KNOW WHAT TO DO!! Thank you for any help you can give to someone that is down and out...