LSupNorth6.0

Hello all, just wondering if anyone has heard of someone doing a lq9/lq4 swap...and having problems keeping the between trans abs transfer case extension housing together. Or problems in their SS for that matter... I'm not gonna lie I go WOT as much as possible, but it seems odd to me either way. She has a shift kit.. Maybe it's too aggressive? Any experience on this would be Appreciated cause now my transfer case is basically hanging their and the yoke has significant abnormal wear.. Before I replace it all I would like to see if their are any fixes.. I was thinking a custom transfer case brace similar to a Dmax, but not much room under there.. Thanks in advance.

I was eyeballing that Holley high ram for sure. I just need something to hold up to some boost. I just bought a s475/87 and building my kit slowly but surely. I'm thinking of running 10lbs and hope for close to 600rwhp. The custom thing isn't a big deal, but Im interested in a carbureted style intake with the horn on top. Was wondering if anyone sold those.? Probably not. I'll prolly go with the Holley. Does anyone know how much hp deKa 60's are good for on a lq9?

Got my truck on the dyno today despite STOCK injectors, which I know I need bigger. Going deKa 60's. As you can guess I'm not happy with my results. The data log showed 100% injector flow from 4500 up. But the truck is still rich.... So I need air.... Now I know the options with Fast and MSD and sheet metals. But I'm just interested to know some custom stuff people have done with their intake manifold and CAI. I like custom. Just to have something different. Looking for ideas... Thank you in advance. I'm leaning towards building 4" custom intake with 100mm MAF for CAI. I know you're going to ask so I did 350/380 on the dyno jet. Weak. Mail order tune by zippy.

Oh hell ya, glad ya got it figured out.

When you're putting the keys in, are you accounting for them to bind in the control arm? Usually torsion bars are a little sloppy in the control arm, when you look at them it looks like a socket about to strip a bolt head. My guess is you're having height problems because the way you install them doesn't hold front end up the way it should. I could be wrong but usually the parts aren't the problem. When you install those keys you should be needing a special clamp to get them where they need to be. The torsion key should be tight on the lock before you even set it down. When you're putting the keys in, are you accounting for them to bind in the control arm? Usually torsion bars are a little sloppy in the control arm, when you look at them it looks like a socket about to strip a bolt head. My guess is you're having height problems because the way you install them doesn't hold front end up the way it should. I could be wrong but usually the parts aren't the problem. When you install those keys you should be needing a special clamp to get them where they need to be. The torsion key should be tight on the lock before you even set it down.

http://wausau.craigslist.org/cto/4930786051.html It has issues but a fair asking price

Can't wait to see finished product!

Thanks for replying man. After some thinking my goal when starting this was to keep the shift point below 6500, so A bigger cam is out of the question. I've been kicking around the ? Supercharger or turbo for awhile. Just being a student and working I can't have my truck torn down too long and I know I could do heads in a day. Maybe ill just keep saving for a 408. I appreciate the feedback though, definitely helped. They're so many possibilities with these motors my mind is all over the place.

Merry Christmas everyone! This time of year always reminds me just how great life really is

Alright guys, the day comes closer and closer that ill be making my purchase and I have a few questions. I have the cam in my sig right now because I wanted a broad power curve. My first question is, will higher compression tame down a bigger cam? Right now I'm about 10.5:1, I've never been on a dyno so I don't know what my band looks like right now. I just don't want to rev the crap out of my motor to get my power, 6600 max rpm. If I go with say a 228r on 110lsa and bump my compression to about 11.25:1 with some stg 2.5 PRC heads, would my powerband stay lower? I expect it would be higher than it is now, but I'm hoping not too much. Or maybe compression doesn't matter, just displacement? Which I am the stock 364. Basically I'm trying to figure out if I need to buy a new cam with my setup, I know I need it to make more horsepower, but I don't want to sacrifice alot of torque. If you guys would wanna help me out with some dyno sheets that would be great! My plan is the stg 2.5 ls6 heads milled to 62-63cc, port matched FAST 102 LSXRT, NW 102DBW, custom 4" intake with MAF. I will need an x-link of course. And potentially the 228r or equivalent cam, I was even thinking torquer v2, but thought it might be a tad large for what I want.

Definitely worth checking converter bolts and flexplate, I broke one on an old 94 chevy I had with a big lift. I don't recall it making noise but eventually my starter had a hard time engaging. If you take the starter off you can see converter bolts, in a 2wd it should be cake. But to see the rest of flexplate is gonna be tough because of the converter.

The way I see it. If its making some pretty ridiculous noise and your motor still runs perfect, maybe even some wot... it's most likely not the motor. Though I have been wrong before. Maybe take the little cover off the bottom of your trans and go in there with a magnet, maybe you got a piece of rubbish in there clunking around on your flexplate. Do you have the dust cover on your starter hole? It sounds to me like something stupid. I don't think a potentially extreme and serious noise would be in the motor then just go away. Wish you were closer, I'd sure like to check it out. I guess your motor could have spit something into the exhaust and it gets stuck from time to time in the cat, sounds kinda far fetched though. If you have enough time on your hands maybe just pop a valve cover off just to look. If you took off the bottom end, and the pushrods and rockers all look right, I think you could rule out motor.

I would just like to say that a member on here, Mcinalli, did me a huge solid. I am a college kid, graduate in may thank goodness. I explained my situation to him and he allowed me to do payments on them. Like any situation you need to have trust you'll get your product and cash on the other end. This transaction couldn't have went any better and I really appreciate the help he gave me. Thanks man!

Well just judging by other people's results I have found I was hoping to be close to 370-380rwhp, but I have yet to get it dyno tuned so I'd say its closer to the 350-360 range the way it sits. I just got a set of 42lb injectors I'm going to use when I do my heads and intake along with a new cam possibly(probably). Maybe I'm off on my thinking. I'd be completely happy if I even got 440.

Magnaflow makes nice replacements. I don't have alot experience with them as that's the first thing I cut off haha but I have great experience with the rest of their products. I had them on my truck when I first got it and it performed well. Otherwise I'm sure there are other cheaper brands to go with, I just prefer magnaflow.

It would throw a code if it was plugged or completely gone, but if it is just slightly broke and still flows though it may not throw a code. And when it heats up it expands and stops rattling around. That is just a theory though I suppose. When you say it sounds like sheet metal it makes me think you have a heat shield loose, but you must have had it in a hoist to check everything out. Maybe check the heat shield on your starter? I could see the cat being the issue especially because of your forced induction pushing way more flow than its meant to and it goes away when it warms up. Maybe when it's cold go out with a rubber mallet or just your hand and VERY lightly give the cat some knocks, you should be able to hear the rattle if that is indeed it. As for the collapsed lifter, I am leaning away from that with the sheet metal sound you explained, but my theort on that is your oil pressure might give it just enough where it stops acting collapsed.

Just cause its easy you could try seating the neutral safety switch plugs and your main trans harness. Just make sure their all the way on. Have you ever got a chance to see what your tranny pressures look like? Maybe it doesn't get enough at those higher speeds, or maybe too much and won't let it shift.

I was going to mention sticky solenoids, but that should throw a code.

Does it come up with any codes? And I must say that people rebuild transmissions, and people make mistakes. And sometimes brand new parts don't work. I would assume if you didn't mention any codes you don't have any coming on, which is strange. We build Allison's and occasionally a 4l60/65e, we've never had this issue. Like blown 346 said, I would definitely check into the warranty since you paid all that money to have it done professionally by them. When we've had issues like this, never in a 60, but in an Allison it is usually something stupid, but internal. Such as a reversed thrust bearing. One other thing you could check should your warranty be void is your servos. While it controls the 1-2 and 2-4 it is arguably the easiest thing to get to and could explain some things.