mctwist77

You might want to hold onto it and try to sell it at a different time. You're giving it away at 15k. The supercharger alone is worth 5k. It's painful to watch lol. GLWS It's painful to watch lol. GLWS

Wow!

Stock 20's, it looks much better since there is more meat on the tire to fill the wheel well. You need a 2/2 drop man!

Haha, well I cut the drivers side a little too short. There is about 1 and a half threads showing on the inside of the nut. Like I said it hasn't moved at all.

Thanks boss! I appreciate it. Plus the loctite will help.

So I've put about 1000 miles on my drop spindles. I'm 95% sure the upper ball joint it's still tight and I don't feel any looseness while driving. But I feel uncomfortable without the cotter pin. I did use thread locker when I installed it as the directions called for. Should it be fine with just the thread locker? At this point I can't use a cotter pin since I had to cut the ball joint threads.

I just dont get how someone buys that truck new and only puts 900 miles on it. Whats the point if you dont get to enjoy it?!

Not my truck. https://providence.craigslist.org/cto/5499740270.html

Why is this is the for sale section? Op, there are thousands of threads on this. Did you search?

Yeah, it happens super randomly. I was just going to spray some grease in the slot, so to speak...

Matt thanks for the advice. That was my next plan but..... I THINK I figured it out. I'm pretty positive that its the seat belt where it clicks into the seat. I've drove around with my belt off today and no noise, then when I put it back on the noise came back. Looking back on it, it makes sense. I had the noise when I was stopped if I moved, I had the noise when I first applied the brakes (which was me moving very slightly in my seat) I had the noise when I turned hard to the left or when I hit certain bumps (again me moving in my seat). I also couldnt replicate the noise in my driveway because I dont put my seat belt on when I working on my truck. I'm planning on spraying some white lithium grease into the mechanism, do you guys think thats the best product to use? Also, thanks everyone for their pieces of advice in my time of need!

Not the lid. I'm just going to spray a shit ton of white lithium grease into the dash and see what happens.

No it did it before. Ok I'll try that. If it is the lid, how did you get it to stop?

Update. Pulled off the dash handle bar, tightened the doors, lubed the seals, pulled off the radio trim piece and it still chirps. I also did as Johnny recommended and could not replicate the noise. I did notice it happens when I initially apply my brakes. Sounds like it's come from inside the passenger side dash

Johnny, mine is AWD but thats a good idea. I THINK I may have found the noise. It might be coming from the hand hold bar on the dash. I'm going to look into it tomorrow. I discovered that if I apply pressure on that bar the squeak doesnt happen or appears to be muffled.

So, I can get the noise if I'm driving straight and jerk the wheel to the left. I hear it coming from the passenger side.

They are like $250. Does anyone have any ideas? Could an external squeak somehow sound like an internal squeak?

Alright thanks everyone I'll check out the hood and the other stuff

Lol sounds fairly messy

I've been trying to pinpoint a squeak noise inside the cabin. Happens at random times, mostly when the cab flexes around turns and bumps. But I have heard it stopped at a light while moving around in my seat, basically rocking the truck slightly. It sounds like it's coming from the passenger side dash/door area, but then again I have no idea. My wife sat in the passenger seat and said it sounded like it was coming from the center console. I have tried to replicate the sound but I haven't been able to. I just lubed my door seals and it didn't do anything for the sound. For the love of god, please help before I sell my vette and SSS and just buy a Camaro ZL1.

I'm planning on having a local shop rebuild my front diff. Which kit do I need? I was looking at this? http://www.jegs.com/i/Yukon+Gear/807/YKGM8.25IFSB/10002/-1

I wouldn't trust a no name brand spindle off ebay, I'm sure you could get away with it but you might run into issues. Now if you want shackles off ebay I say go for it. I found a pair of Mcgaughys spindles in the used marketplace for $150 and I got a set of ebay shackles for $40. Looking back on it, if I were to do it again I would do the coilover conversion up front and the shackles in the back.

Did we find out if it will work on a 2003?

Me four

It's already cracked?