Bigtoyz97

He's about finished with the rear 4 link. He was to have help but his helper bailed on him. But it is looking good, I was so excited I forgot to take pictures. Lol

Ok FINALLY it's getting put in but I'm not able to get up there to take pictures. So I'll take some detailed ones when I get it home. I lost my torque converter or tranny pump in my car so I'm stuck at home. But my folks might give me a ride up in the morning to check on it. Once we figured out they made a mistake and sent me two kits. One for awd like I needed and one without front wheel drive and extra bags. And the rear 4 link holy Chet is that heavy duty stuff it has to be 2 3/4-3 inch dia tubing and 1/4 wall. Should be finished this week.

crap missed this one..... but someone got a good deal.

Sorry guys been busy but I have pictures of the whole kit now. Just been to busy to drop truck off to get kit put in. But Next week hopefully I can go without it for a few days so once I get the phone hooked up to the computer I'll put some pics up for you all. If anyone does a air ride kit....DO the parallel kit and not a triangled kit.....have to do tank relocation and just not possible with these trucks and they don't tell you that. Its 200 bucks more but you will save in shipping once you figure it out. But the whole kit is well built.....heavy I mean heavy pieces and brackets! Cant wait for it to get in!

with a sealed box they tend to be smaller and more controlled and can put more power to them because of the sealed box.

if it has a usb plug you can get a windows OS on it. Just get a external usb dvd drive pop in the windows setup dvd and the way you go. you can load windows OS onto an Apple if you wanted to. Internally they are the same parts. I use to replace network cards in the apple desktops all the time.

Well we went to start the project this past Wed. and they did not send us the correct 4 link so I have to send that back and get the parallel 4 link. With the triangle 4 link you have to relocate the fuel tank and that isn't possible. You would have to goto a fuel cell and put it in the spare tire area and for me that isn't going to work. But I did some digging and with the kit that I will put in, it should almost put it on the ground. And should be getting rid of the torsion bar also which I was concerned about. So when I get the 4 link I should have we will get started and will post some pictures for you all. I do have some of the kit and soon as I can find my phone data cable I will post them.

My experience its all in the tuning. I started really working on boost is with my 97 LT1. And if I had been advised better by procharger way back then I'd still be on stock motor and 9 psi. After 3 sets of pistons. I know how to keep a motor together now. Procharger kept telling me that it will hold. 3rd time I lowered the CR to 9.5 and it could take full stock tuning at 9psi. But now way full timing at stock CR and full timing now going to happen when you don't know what the fuel is gonna be when your traveling. And there are a few on here with stock internals still and running pretty good boost. So not only having a good tune but RELIABLE fuel source also that is consistent. But with 9.5 cr you can run a good amount of boost and still be reliable. And with the addition of meth on demand..... that's really a lot of safety built into it already. But I think once you get past the 20 psi your probably looking at reducing your CR down to the low 9's high 8's and depending on if your running intercoolers also. And have read that nitrous to help fight detonation also. Cause your getting the cooling effect of the nitrous gas also. Now we are just talking 50 - 75 maybe 100 hp shot now nothing big. Its kind of being the norm for boost recipes for fighting detonation. And running meth instead of intercoolers. Me I would for sure run a intercooler wither A/A or W/A. And it is what your cam specs are also.

I used one from a 3 gen trans am turbo which is 3 bar on my Lt1 awhile back. I can get a part # for it if your interested.

OMG spitted my drink out when I read this......

Should hopefully start to put it in tomorrow. I know the lower control arm gets replaced and a bracket takes the place of something on the frame that holds the airbag.

I had to fix some wiring problems with my plug there and seen that same very wire capped off.

ok thanks

ok thanks I've looked and couldn't find the thread they were talking about so I didn't know. But will look further back... Thanks again

Video isn't showing up for me.......yeah I bet with that wattage those 8's would give your head a pounding. I had a pair of Earthquake BR1070's with 500 rms to them and popped my tuners ear drums so I can only imagine how hard 4 8's would hit.

Is there a standard kit out there to have one put in? I had one in my 93 T-Bird 5.0 and just loved that one. Wondering if that could be retro'ed into my truck cause it worked flawlessly for 200k miles and didn't leak.

pm'ed yeah

Is there any word on being able to get the door lights that light up SS on the ground?

This is what I'm going to.....and if anyone wants a hard cover I will have a freshly painted arrival blue one next week that locks also. http://tonneaucoversworld.com/gatortrax-electric.aspx

Thanks guys

Do you still have ECM? I'd be interested in it, could use it if I ever convert my LT1 over.

Isn't Wheatley tuning anymore?

is your amp turning on?

I'm with Blown check your batt connections. Put a new batt in this spring and some how the neg came loose and motor started acting funny here and there and then was out of town and it wouldn't start. Then wouldn't turn over but have power ding and gauges would power up but would just click when try to start....put batt pack on it and still no power to turn over so looked into the connections and neg was little loose.

I can see an issue if there is an accident a lawyer might have a hay day with it. Cause amber are used for the front and sides and red for the rear. So a person can tell if they are coming at you or away......just taking out loud there.