Ktownsitdown

Yes, I am going to install the pickup body on escalsde frame. The cab forward is a simple bolt on, the bed mounts are going to require a bit of modification. Ive determined that im completely gutting the cab and using 100% of the escalade wiring and the ac components under and in the dash. I will have to delete several circuits as they arent needed on the z71. Trying to work through the possibilities of using the rear two window buttons for a lift for the tonnue and tailgate. While workingvthe bed out im going to replace bedsides with rear steer bedsides to increase the available room for rubber and getting rear wheels widened 2 inches. At present I have bed and front clip removed and working on removing dash and the rest of interior from z71. Will be swapping bodies over in about two weeks. Im studying stabilitrac now to see the posdible performance benifits, cant find any good threads. Does anyone have a link to a build that may help? Im sure there can be some use for the ability to hit a button and change settings......will see Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

Build direction: End result: twin turbo 427" rs next block 4l80e custom oldschool truck arms with jack plates rear suspension, coil over torsion bar delete front suspension. Build will consist of 4 to 5 stages due to factors such as wife, work and lack of patience ( dont want her off the road for a long time) Completed work: 3" drop arms, axle flip with add a leaf to adjust ride height 20x9.5 2014 option rims, 275 55 20 rubber Work currently in progress: I have aquired a 02 escalade for donor. My truck came from Idaho and has a good amount of rot on frame ( and body ) so instead of pulling all the wanted goodies from slade I am dropping truck body on escalade frame. This brings me to a couple of questions I would enjoy comment on. 1) how to get in touch with zippy? I need some tuning done. 2) I want to retain ac from my truck, since its 04 the ac speaks to pcm can bus 02 escalade doesnt communicate in same manner. I also want to keep most of the bells/whistles from escalade such as heated eltric seats, stabilitrac ( recalibrated and repurposed - more on that in a moment) follding mirrors, trip/milage computer, radio, steering wheel functions, sunroof controller (repurposed) and probably more. My question here is what is best way to integrate 02 bcm with 04 pcm. By dropping body on escalade frame it frees my truck frame up for a full nuts and bolts rehash, complete rust removal, powder coated and refreshed, customized running gear/ suspension. 427/4l80e Thanks for any input in advance. Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

It would help if I gave the details. '04 silverado with split climate control and rear defogger.

I lost all climate control except the fan. My climate control unit is a known working device and it appears all of my fuses are in good shape also but I can't get anything to work except the fan. Any help with my issue would be greatly appreciated.

Got my front and rear sets of brackets from Rudy today. They are a nice and shiny and can't wait to source everything needed to use them. Can't say enough about the experience. After I contacted Rudy he was quick and professional. Purchase process was painless. Thanks again Rudy.

Your example of a higher stall converter is wrong. Converters change behavior from weight, torque, tire size, and many many other things. So your example basically suggests that someone buy a converter from another application and guess if it will work or not. The chances of the converter working is slim to none... and I think I just saw slim leaving town. My information is not wrong - incomplete I would agree with but wrong is incorrect. Like anything else knowledge of the part you're installing is a must. I agree In the statement you made about weight, torque and all the other factors making a difference on how a TC performs. I wasn't developing a how to or singling out one part in particular. I was just offering my opinion on the quality of some of the stock parts for our motors. And yes I'm planning a build right now that will have as many stock parts as possible. I may give up a few ponies but the piece of mind I gain will be worth it - not building a dedicated race truck I'm building a DD that I plan on having for many moons. In my studies I have found quiet a few things that will help. For example ls-9 rods are forged titanium and '06 + ls rods have bushed small ends. Again you can't blindly bolt things together and expect anything. But with good research you can build a good sturdy hotrod and spend less doing so by not ignoring stock parts as an option.

Hey guys- I'm a huge fan of stock parts even as higher performance needs. GM has always made it easy to upgrade with good ole tried and true stock pieces. Just as with the gen I small block the LS engine can benefit greatly with out aftermarket parts and their downfalls. I see a lot of people on this site wanting more stall. That can be achieved using converters from larger or stock FI engines. And as posted a lot stock heads can give the result your looking for at a lot better price. Cams, lifters, valves - same thing. Before you go out and spend jack on aftermarket pieces do your homework and you may be able to achieve the same or better results with GM parts. The r and d and testing put in these parts is worth the time.

That looks to be a DOD delete kit. I would need what he would have taken off: dod lifters and valley cover/ gaskets. Not sure yet exactly how it works but I think I understand that the valley gasket on a dod engine has ports to transfer oil pressure to activate/de-activate lifters. It's controlled electronically with variations of throttle position and engine load. At this point though I don't want to buy anything for the engine. I don't want to buy the first part until I know all the parts that are going to be used - still planning motor. Where I'm at now on my truck is brakes and suspension. I am super excited to have found this site and did so looking for brakes. Found the z-06 upgrade doing my research on my foundation. Exactly what I was looking for - mostly GM parts. I have already been in touch with Rudy and the brackets will be my first purchase to my build and it's right around the corner. I will be documenting the entire build. The only things I've done so far has been clean-up and minor personalization to the truck as purchased used. Just about time for tires and rims. Will have all the pieces for the brakes within a month or two as well as 3/3 drop using djm lower control arms slight tweak to loosen torsion bars, 1 7/8 fr sway 1" rr. Lowering leafs for the back. Shims and lowering shackles come with the kit and are optional to tune final ride height. Then a trip to alignment shop. Gotta get her stopping and turning before I getter moving faster. It's a fun little truck bone stock can't wait to get her moving right.

Nice write up. That thread is from '11 how did the engine turn out? Last post I saw was from 11/11. That's def a direction I am interested in. Reliability is an absolute must. I'm not trying to turn 7 grand, I want a motor happy at 1800/2300 and is full on at 5500. Most of my travel is two lane county rds to and from work then some red light to red light right around most our properties. A little fun between job sites makes the day all worth while. I'm thinking a strong short block with the right cam ( need help ) and a good tune ( for better or worse I'm doing myself ) with the ability to save fuel in cruise situation will pay for itself. I have been studying Mega Squirt engine management systems for about three years now and bought one a year or so ago. Long story short it's just about time for me to dive in. The great thing about the system is I can install it as "read only" to begin with while a) it learns my engine and b) I become more secure with my ability to navigate the software. Then from there do a fuel only take over with a stand alone harness without modifying my stock harness. Simply unplug my stock injector pigtails and plugging MS to them with IAT WB 02 and Tps. At any time I can plug stock fuel back up. Once satisfied with my fuel map I can take over timing ( that's when the power can be gained) MS is easiest to set up with an external crank wheel and can again be plugged up without modding stock wiring. As long as I never mess with any of the GM sensors the stock computer will not realize it's not controlling the engine. the plan is to add duplicates. One for MS and let the stock ones be. Once control of both fuel and timing is with the MS controller I can build full VE Timing and fuel maps in real time ( just need a consistent driver while manning the laptop on some back roads to get her close enough to open the loop. With my Ms I have the sequential fuel daughter board as well as a modified board for controlling a 6E which can be further modded to control a 8E which will be a whole new venture tackled later. I just want to be able to control the engine at first. Best part is I always have the stock computer as a fail safe. I will have to have a tune put on the stock ECM just to make compatible with the modded engine but not looking to trick it out - just a fail safe.

I am a project manager for a property management / general contracting firm so my ride is one of my tools. Must be presentable and have a large trunk. I wish I could get away with a beater I would be rockin a hilux or something. I have a "grocery getter" for all things other than work but I spend 90% of my driving time in my "work truck" so I tend to spend more on it than my other vehicles. I typically get 400/500 k out of my work trucks - with good PM and a rebuild or two along the way it has worked for me so far. I am going to build a runner just trying to be mileage oriented as well. If Vettes can get 30 mpg on the highway why can't I try to achieve something close to that. I understand weight and aerodynamics aren't the same but the running gear is close enough that I should be able to eat a GT up at will and still get 20 mpg or better. Well that's my goal anyway.

^ 20 mpg

Correct, I don't have dod or vvt either. however; I do have a bare ls block that is just itching to have one or both. As far as I can tell from the little bit of research I've done dod can be accplished by using dod lifters and valley pan then programming. Same with VVT. If I use the correct cam and plate the rest is in the tune. I would love to have 550 hp at the wheels and get mpg or better. It's like most things though, to get what you want your gonna lose what you have. I just am trying to make an informed decision. Is this what I really want? What are the down sides? I know the positive - mo fuel economy.

I'm in the planning process for my engine build. I am going to build in two stages for monetary reasons NA in stage 1 Then later adding FI. I'm looking for opinions about Displacement on Demand and Variable valve timing. This is my daily driver and I put down 700 miles or so a week so mileage is a great factor/ influence on my build. I have a 6.0 block and plan to stroke to 408 with a target of 9.5 - 10 cr so that I can get descent performance until I can get blown. When I do add a blower I plan on a new cam that's designed for FI and I want to make my power in the rpm range I use the most. I'm looking for power starting around 1200 rpms and don't care to rev over 5500 for the most part. With all that said how viable are the dod lifters and or vvt cam to achieve the most power and still get some kind of mileage. I would really appreciate any advice from someone who has experience with either. I am using a Mega squirt processor that is going to be controlling both fuel and timming. I have the mega squirt already and have the sequential fuel board installed and am pretty sure it can controll both dod and vvt with modification ( info about tuning mega squirt is there it's just scattered so it's hard to digest ). Again any advice is very welcome. Thanks

I would like to purchase the front brackets if you still have them for sale.