synyster_SS

That button is for your high mount brake lamp cab lights, the fog lamp button goes in the blank spot right beneath it.

No worries man! Glad to help out.

I hadn't heard of this recall yet.. I just searched for and read the recall bulletin on Service Information. Basically, there is a possibility that the rear yoke strap bolts could back out.. the correction for the concern is for new yoke straps and strap bolts to be installed, the new bolts have thread sealant on them. Doesn't sound super major, but if you hear the rear propeller shaft starting to clunk, the bolts are backing out. Lol

It will be direct plug and play, just make sure to flush out the trans cooler lines and cooler, and have the transmission shift adapts reset with a Tech 2 scan tool. I had a friend loan me a freshly built 4L60E when I had my 4L65E out to be rebuilt after the forward sprag let go.. no problems whatsoever in the month that the 60 was installed in my truck.

I use the regular blue AC Delco filters, I've never had a problem with one. Plus I get them for really cheap wrenching for a GM dealership. Lol

It looks like it's been lifted up an inch or two from when you owned it.. you had the stance on that truck nailed perfect IMO. I don't get why something as bitchin as that changes hands so often, definitely not the truck it once was.

Looking at the diagnostic chart for that code on GM service information (I'm a tech at a GM dealership), the long and the short of it is, it's either your PCM or the EVAP purge solenoid at fault (that is, if the wiring and connections are all good). I'm not a fan of throwing parts at cars to fix them instead of doing proper diagnosis, but purge solenoids are pretty inexpensive so it won't hurt to just put one on there.

My condolences man, your SS was super sick and def one of my fav's on the site, it looked so wicked with the 3/4 drop and the OEM chrome 20's. I just don't get people these days, it seems a lot of people don't have any respect for anybody else's property. If I caught somebody in the act of doing that shit to my truck, I would go ballistic. I'm with ya on the GMT900 Sierra Denali's, they are sweet trucks, congrats on picking one up! I don't plan on driving my SS through another shitty Alberta winter, she'll get parked when the time comes this year so what you just bought is exactly what I'll be looking for in the fall! I work on them all of the time (GM dealership) and I love how they drive, when I find one I'm gonna leave it stock except for a tune, tint, and a set of the new 20" chrome 10-spoke Denali wheels.. I don't need 2 AWD trucks all modded! Lol

If I were you, I'd remove the bump stop brackets, then install stock bump stops straight onto the frame but trim them down. I'd also keep the air bags, it looks like you have an Air Lift kit on the truck, just install a pair of shorter bags and you'll be golden. I'm lowered 3/4 as well, I put an Air Lift SlamAir kit on my truck, I was always bottoming out the axle on the frame. I run 20psi in the helpers with my truck unloaded, it rides 10x better with the helpers vs. without.

Those Kooks look really nice, I'm really curious to hear how the Corsa Touring sounds vs. the Sport (which I have). Also, before you pull the cylinder head, try welding that broken manifold bolt first (if you haven't tried that method already, that is). Clean up the broken bolt as best you can, weld a nub onto the bolt, weld a nut onto the nub, and work the bolt back and forth gently to remove it. It may take a few tries, but it beats the hell out of removing a cylinder head just for one broken bolt. It seems to me most brands of long tubes have installation issues, my ARH's fought me tooth and nail every step of the way, I wanted to put a stick of dynamite in each of my Corsa tips and push the truck off of a cliff during the install. The headers themselves fit beautifully, after that it was all downhill. Both slip connectors on the driver side exhaust pipe had poor fitment, a tubing expander was required for good fitment and adjustability.. an inch of pipe also needed to be trimmed from the rear slip connector inside pipe for proper fitment. It also seemed that the ARH collectors were probably 2-3 inches longer than the OEM ones, pushing the previously installed Corsa Sport towards the rear of the truck. The rubber hangers were a chore to fit properly afterwards, I ended up trimming a couple inches of pipe right before the muffler so the rubber hangers lined up properly again. That being said, I love my ARH's. Lol

Yep this is a popular combo on this forum. Myself, I will never run anything but Corsa, I love the tone, it's pretty unique IMO. I was also worried about just how loud my truck would be with long tubes and the Corsa Sport, but I bit the bullet and put on a set of ARH long tubes with catted midpipes last year. The truck has no drone at all, is pretty quiet at idle, but is just vicious at WOT. I say go for it! Under normal driving, the quiet ride is still there even with catted long tubes.

Congrats man!! I'm sure it was well worth the wait, that color is just gorgeous in person. I get to drive these new trucks all of the time at work (GM shop), although I haven't driven a new one with the 8-speed yet. I'm pretty partial to Corsa exhausts myself, we had a new 6.2 Denali in not too long ago with a Corsa Sport catback on it, it sounded fuggin mean!

My trans let go at 160,000kms, the forward sprag grenaded on a moderate 2-1 downshift. I bought the 'SS Monster in a Box' kit from Monster Transmissions, I'm a tech at a GM dealership so I had my trans tech do the rebuild for me. I also put in a 3000rpm stall, ARH long tubes, and an updated tune when I reinstalled my rebuilt trans, I've driven 30,000 (mostly) trouble free km's since the rebuild. Turns out that Monster supplied an incorrect TCC solenoid, my truck wouldn't lock up the converter once the trans fluid reached a certain temp, easy enough fix though once I figured out what was wrong. Not sure if I'd buy from Monster again, they have some pretty horrid reviews, which I discovered after I pulled the trigger on my purchase. Lol. I can't remember which clutch pack it was, but the kit included one less steel and fiber than factory, I also didn't install the shift kit as I thought the truck would shift hard enough as is. It was nice though, watching and having a hand in building my own trans, knowing that it was put together properly! To the OP, for your piece of mind, I'd prob go with FLT. Either that or an 80 swap.

She looks and sounds great in that video!! One thing.. at the 1:40ish mark, is it just me, or is the intake tube not fully seated in the throttle body coupler?? I swear I'm seeing a gap at the bottom!

Nice man! The interiors on the new trucks are sooo nice. I haven't driven one with the 8-speed yet, and I haven't seen a Denali in that color either! I'd love to drive a new 6.2 truck with a tune, with the stock tune you can really feel the torque management when the trans shifts. Lol

Dan, if you have a buddy at a GM dealership, have your instrument panel cluster calibrations checked, there is a calibration update to lessen the brightness/intensity of the high beam telltale. I know this because I updated all of my trucks calibrations when I first got it two years ago. The cluster looks great, I need to send all of my interior shit to Steve to have the LED conversion done!

Just awesome!! He was prob like, 'WTF is in that thing?!' Haha

http://shop.tfbdesigns.com/SS-Emblem-Decal-fits-2001-2007-Chevy-Silverado-Tahoe-01-07-SILSSEMB.htm http://shop.tfbdesigns.com/Solid-Color-Emblem-Decal-fits-2001-2007-Chevy-Silverado-Tahoe-SILSOL.htm I bookmarked that website a while back, I was going to put a black decal with a red outline on mine, I pulled the trigger on a brand new emblem instead.

I would advise against drilling into the bolt, I have seen it done and the tech drilled too far.. nice stream of coolant, new cylinder head time. I remove broken manifold bolts quite often at work (GM dealership), nearly all of them are broken off inside the head. Clean up the bolt the best you can, weld a fair sized nub onto the bolt, and then weld a nut onto the nub. Work it back and forth, sometimes it takes a few tries, but it'll come out.

The truck sounds and looks just great, Art. Definitely one of my favorites on here.

Undoubtedly there will be a ton of speculation as to what actually happened, there only seems to be the one video floating around on youtube uploaded by a plethora of different users. To me it looks like Stewart took the kid high in the corner, Ward backed out of it too late and ended up wrecking. Poor move on Ward's part to exit his car to confront Tony on track, it looks really bad on Stewart's part how his car veered to the right just as he punched it.

Looks awesome, Matt! Lol, seeing you just slap that thing on there without any farting around just makes my itch to do the same even worse!

No worries man, I hope you get her all figured out!

367a - 1-2 shift solenoid 367b - 2-3 shift solenoid 377 - pressure control solenoid 394 - 3-2 control solenoid 396 - TCC PWM solenoid The component number for the TCC apply solenoid/wiring harness (not on that diagram) is 66. All of the solenoids are held in with clips except for the pressure control solenoid and the TCC apply solenoid, they retained with bolts. The clips are very easy to remove, you just need a small flat blade screwdriver to pry them out. Use a bit of caution when removing the solenoids, the valve springs can sometimes pop out.

I'm a tech at a GM dealership, so that's where I got the parts. Lol. For all three of the solenoids I replaced, it was right around 250$, I'm not sure how comparable US dealer prices are to Canadian prices! Don't worry about dropping the valve body, the solenoids are all accessible with the valve body still in place.. plus the check balls might fall out if you take the valve body and separator plate! I do have the list for the rest of those solenoids, I have access to GM literature.. I just don't have access to the part numbers. I'll post up what the solenoids are when I'm home in a couple of hours!